B16A2

In my quest to be the fastest 4 Cylinder in my town i have decided to spend 10K on my engine/suspension to help me compete with the DSM's ...

i am starting with a JDM B16A with a JDM GSR LSD tranny...

i plan on doing the eagle stroker kit, vortech blower and a stage 3 clutch/flywheel...

i was just wondering if it would be even worth my time to stroke the engine to 1.75 litres even tho im going with the blower or possibly a turbo setup...

i was also just thinkin of tossin some good rods and pistons in for $1K less?? will it hurt he performance over the stroker kit?


i realize that probably nobody in this forum has done the stroker setup for the b16... but im just wondering if anyone has heard or has any input on stretching the stroke on the B16 while utilizing a form of forced induction....

thanks

Midnight Racer

iTrader: (2)

You can't get aftermarket pistons and rods for under 1k.If you buy an eagle stroker kit, turbo charge your car since more displacement means less the turbo can spool up faster plus you have more options on upgrading the turbo kit then you do with a supercharger.

B6T

Sell your Honda, buy something that doesn't require $10k into the engine to compete with 14 second Talons.

B6T

Or instead of getting a $2000 (?) stroker kit, why don't you start with a B18, like a GSR, or even a LS? If you want even bigger bore, get a B20, sleeve it, throw forged rods and pistons in, and from there you can decide to go turbo or leave it NA... or course you'll have to figure that out before ordering your pistons.

What is the point of stroking a 1.6L to 1.75L when you can get a 1.8L to start with anyway? Does the stroker kit improve the stroke geometry for higher revs?

Premium Dude

Actually, that stroker kit reduces the r/s ratio from an almost perfect 1.74:1 to about 1.60:1. Doesn't really matter though. If you build it right you can still rev high. The lowered r/s will provide more low end torque anyways.
If you want to work with your b16, and want to use the stroker kit, why not go for the 1.87L kit? You will need to sleeve and bore your block out to 84mm. You can also get some low cr pistons with that if you plan to go turbo.
Btw, save your money and make your own turbo kit.

B16A2

i didnt say i can get rods/pistons for under 1K...i sayed the stroker is like 3K installed and the rods/pisons are 1K less.. 2K installed..

im probably just gonna go with rods/9.0:1 pistons and a block guard and either a turbonetics or drag kit... run like 7-8 PSI on the street and when i can afford a hondata setup, ill be able to hit 10-12 psi easy and like 14-16 on the track??

of course ill need lotsa other things... clutch/flywheel/tracion bars/drag radials.. the usual...

Travis

B16A2

PS... my car runs 14's now lol...

Travis

zman

iTrader: (1)

yeah don't stroke a b16. That'll ruin its nice r/s ratio, especially if you wanna boost it.
Just get some forged internals/hondata and boost the crap out of it. For what you would pay for the stroker kit you could just buy a b18 and rebuild it.
But you already have a b16 and its a good platform to start with. Get some forged rods, 9:1 CR pistons (maybe lower), balance the crankshaft/flywheel, new bearings while you are at it, then concentrate on the turbo setup and engine management.
I'd say go with a bare minimum of a T3, nothing smaller, if your going to build the bottom end i'd say use a T3/T4 hyrbrid. Get some bigger injectors (at least 440's) and hondata w/boost option. Also keep in mind the size of your intercooler, you don't want something too small that isn't going to be efficient at 15psi (which you could easily run on a built/tuned b16) but you don't wanna run a huge intercooler either while only boostin 15 psi b/c it'll create some lag. Get a 3" turbo back exhaust, some really sticky tires, a few guages (oil pressure, boost, egt) and lots of time on the dyno with a good tuner and enjoy blowin the doors off almost anything you come across.
A very similar setup in my buddy's b16 CRX was keeping up to 600cc street bikes, eating vettes/stangs for lunch and an incredible little car to drive, mind you his wasn't tuned, running prelude injectors and a FMU for engine management, but still you get the picture.
Stroke it if you wanna stay N/A. Otherwise the funds could be well spent on other things if going turbo.

Premium Dude

7,8,16 psi doesn't mean too much. Turbo size will dictate how much power you can make per psi, at the cost of long spool time. This will in turn dictate how much you will need to build up your engine to handle the extra power, not the psi.
What do you hope to achieve with this car?

zman

iTrader: (1)

true....kinda, let me explain....its more compressor efficiency and how long it can stay in the compressor's most efficient area.
Example: I have a T25 on some engine and a T3/t04e 60 trim on the exact same engine. I decide to boost 5psi which in this case allows the T25 to land in the compressors most efficent area of the map from 3000rpm to 6000rpm from 6000-7000(redline in this case) it drops in efficency. Meanwhile, the 60 trim turbo is far less efficent from 3000rpm to 5000rpm barely finding the compressor map and from 5000-7000rpm it finds the compressor map and is in the most efficent place possible at the end of the rpm scale.

You can guess that from 3000-5000, the t25 will kill the 60 trim in power. From 5000-7000 the T25 will begin to waver off and most likely cause your powerband to table top from 6000-7000 while the 60 trim will just start waking up and pull ahead at that point and offer significant gains. Now which is better? The answer would be solved by figuring out the area under the torque and horse power curves of both and seeing which area is largest.

nocwage

Don't forget "goals" as well.
If you want a drag car then more power up top is useful, if you want a car to attack the twisties you'll want the power lower down the RPM.

Making 400hp at 9000rpm is nice but when you're shifting/braking all the time that large blower is going to be a big disadvantage.

zman

iTrader: (1)

Yes, goals along with budget is very important. But IMO this should all be figured out long before deciding which turbo to use b/c you don't wanna have a car to take to the drag strips thats using a 15g with a huge intercooler and 800cc injectors....lol

But at the same time making 400hp at 3000rpm is nice but when it runs out of breath at 6000rpm you'll be kicking yourself in the *** for using such a small turbo.
But like you said, if you plan on using your car primairily for the street you can get away with a smaller turbo, like a T3, which is small but isn't going to run out of breath at 8000rpm (which a b16 will safely rev to all day). Thats why i suggested a T3/T4. Spools up quicker b/c it has the t3 turbine and a t4 compressor and is available in many different trim to keep the CFM up while at 8000+ rpm/

B16A2

holy lol.. this compressor size stuff is real complicated lol... i thot i knew a fair bit about turbo's but all this is new lol

anyway.. id like it to peak at like 7500-8K just cuz i love to rev the outta my car ill be racing on the highway and at the strip most of the time...

Travis

Premium Dude

Sounds like a t3/t4 would be your best bet, like zman said. I strongly suggest you read up on trim sizes and compression maps, because then you can decide what best suits your driving style.
Also try this site: http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html