Type R Info
08-28-2005, 11:58 PM
#2
Junior GTcars Poster
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: North York
Posts: 321
Rep Power: 708 
well...
Type R u say...
Re do the head
You can sell everything out of the stock type r head for like 650 ish
Pick up a nice set of cams retainers valves valve springs nice port job and polish with a 5 angle valve job
Crower Stage 2 camshafts 63402-2
Skunk2 valve springs 311-05-0350
Skunk2 retainers 308-05-0300
Skunk2 Valves 310-05-0330
JG/EDELBROCK INTAKE MANIFOLD
68 mm throttle body
AEM FPR
MSD SCI kit w/ external Coil
factory header is good hi flow cat with a 2 1/4 " exhaust back keeping the stock axle back for a sleek look
AEM cold air intake with bypass filter
AEMCam gears
CTR crank pulley
9 lb Fidanza flywheel
Upgraded Clutchmasters stage 2 clutch
ECU TUNING either HONDATA or UBERDATA
80 SHOT DIRECT PORT NX KIT
then a nice tune up and change all fluids
will give you great all motor power throughout the powerband
You'll be looking at roughly 300 whp on a shot and 220 ish wtq
Best part about this is that most stuff you take off will be in high demand so you'll make some money back by selling the factory unit
Type R u say...
Re do the head
You can sell everything out of the stock type r head for like 650 ish
Pick up a nice set of cams retainers valves valve springs nice port job and polish with a 5 angle valve job
Crower Stage 2 camshafts 63402-2
Skunk2 valve springs 311-05-0350
Skunk2 retainers 308-05-0300
Skunk2 Valves 310-05-0330
JG/EDELBROCK INTAKE MANIFOLD
68 mm throttle body
AEM FPR
MSD SCI kit w/ external Coil
factory header is good hi flow cat with a 2 1/4 " exhaust back keeping the stock axle back for a sleek look
AEM cold air intake with bypass filter
AEMCam gears
CTR crank pulley
9 lb Fidanza flywheel
Upgraded Clutchmasters stage 2 clutch
ECU TUNING either HONDATA or UBERDATA
80 SHOT DIRECT PORT NX KIT
then a nice tune up and change all fluids
will give you great all motor power throughout the powerband
You'll be looking at roughly 300 whp on a shot and 220 ish wtq
Best part about this is that most stuff you take off will be in high demand so you'll make some money back by selling the factory unit
08-29-2005, 03:34 PM
#3
ya eh so i can sell everything back to all those honda tuners that want type R heads n soo on thats smart is there nething else i can do to increase the power like a header
n waht bout 3" exhaust with a spoon can on it
oh ya fsat do u think it will run with all the mentioned stuff u said
low 13s
where can i find hondata stuff
any sites u can give me that has prices n for all this stuff
is coximport.com a good 1
n waht bout 3" exhaust with a spoon can on it
oh ya fsat do u think it will run with all the mentioned stuff u said
low 13s
where can i find hondata stuff
any sites u can give me that has prices n for all this stuff
is coximport.com a good 1
Last edited by ALLAN_M; 08-29-2005 at 04:18 PM.
08-29-2005, 10:37 PM
#4
well seeing as the b18c5 has a factory port job i don't know how necessary it is. A valve job would be good and maybe mill the head a bit to raise the CR a little more. Forget the JG edelbrock intake manifold, its for boosted cars or cars that rev to 10,000rpms, it even advertises that its designed for 7000-10,000 rpms, so i'd say pick another IM, although the ITR intake manifold is a great one. Same with the throttle body, 68mm is pretty big for a N/A car, you will loose torque with a t/b that big, if you want a bigger t/b, bore the stock one out to 65mm. AEM FPR is a waste too b/c you don't need to change the fuel pressure, honda's run best on 40 psi (stock). No need for that MSD either, honda's ignition system is great and will do for anything 400whp plus.
If you can afford an ITR then sell the header and buy a SMSP or Comptech header with 2.5" collector get a 2.5" high flow cat and run 2.5" exhaust back to whatever muffler you want....3" is way to big for a non-boosted car.
If you wanna change the cams i'd say go with Rocket, Toda or Cat cams and their respective valve train, don't mix and match cams from valve springs and retainers. A certain set of cams WILL require the use of thier valve springs and retainers, so don't buy crower cams and a skunk2 valve train.
And why run a CTR crank pulley, unless you don't want power steering anymore? Which would be rediculous b/c you would be using a power steering rack with no power steering, now if you felt the desire to change the nice ITR power steering rack for a non-power steering rack then you can run the CTR crank pulley, but if you ask me thats a lot of work for very very minimal gains.
The only thing i really agree with is using a lightened flywheel (brand of your choice) and a better clutch (again which ever brand you want, clutch masters is pretty good) and tuning with hondata or uberdata (but you can't run uberdata on an obd2 car).
But hey....what do i know?
If you can afford an ITR then sell the header and buy a SMSP or Comptech header with 2.5" collector get a 2.5" high flow cat and run 2.5" exhaust back to whatever muffler you want....3" is way to big for a non-boosted car.
If you wanna change the cams i'd say go with Rocket, Toda or Cat cams and their respective valve train, don't mix and match cams from valve springs and retainers. A certain set of cams WILL require the use of thier valve springs and retainers, so don't buy crower cams and a skunk2 valve train.
And why run a CTR crank pulley, unless you don't want power steering anymore? Which would be rediculous b/c you would be using a power steering rack with no power steering, now if you felt the desire to change the nice ITR power steering rack for a non-power steering rack then you can run the CTR crank pulley, but if you ask me thats a lot of work for very very minimal gains.
The only thing i really agree with is using a lightened flywheel (brand of your choice) and a better clutch (again which ever brand you want, clutch masters is pretty good) and tuning with hondata or uberdata (but you can't run uberdata on an obd2 car).
But hey....what do i know?
08-30-2005, 02:16 AM
#5
thanks man so stay away from skunk2 parts cuz i was thinkin running a skunk2 stage III cams with the matchin valve work is that good or no
n with all that done it should have bout 220whp no?
n how fast is the ET gonna be with that done
n with all that done it should have bout 220whp no?
n how fast is the ET gonna be with that done
08-30-2005, 06:46 PM
#6
with all what i've said you will be lucky to hit 200whp. Stock ITR's put out 165whp maybe a little more maybe a little less depends on the engine and the dyno.
To break 200whp on a N/A 4 cylinder will take a lot of money and more displacement than just 1.8L.
Skunk2 is meh....i'd go with rocket or cat cams, or maybe buddy club. It all depends what you are looking for....bottom end, mid-range, top end.
To break 200whp on a N/A 4 cylinder will take a lot of money and more displacement than just 1.8L.
Skunk2 is meh....i'd go with rocket or cat cams, or maybe buddy club. It all depends what you are looking for....bottom end, mid-range, top end.
08-30-2005, 10:00 PM
#8
waste of a perfectly good b18c5 if you ask me. If you wanna sleeve go with a b18b, much much cheaper than an ITR. And has a longer stroke too. If you are going to build the internals why start with an expensive *** engine? Start with a cheap *** b18b bottom end and get a b16 head, doesn't make sense to me to start replacing the internals of honda's best b-series engine, its already got the best internals. Dual valve springs on both intake and exhaust side, factory port job, awesome cams, nice intake manifold and decently big throttle body, and a real nice exhaust manifold, pretty high compression ratio, coated pistons, crank girlde and a super sexy tranny with LSD.
08-31-2005, 07:40 AM
#10
for what you would pay to fully build (sleeve and bore to 2.0L, completely build the head and all of the bolt ons) a b18b that would barely by the ITR with some bolt ons.
But hey you want to have the mad tyte jdm type arrrr then by all means dump 10,000 into it, and i will smoke you with my cheap (comparatively speaking) b20vtec.
But hey you want to have the mad tyte jdm type arrrr then by all means dump 10,000 into it, and i will smoke you with my cheap (comparatively speaking) b20vtec.
08-31-2005, 05:52 PM
#12
i've already given you lots of help. Read my other posts. There isn't much that NEEDS to be changed in an ITR, but if you feel so desired to do so then there are lots of good parts to choose from for the b-series engines. But at the same time there are lots of crappy parts too.
08-31-2005, 07:35 PM
#14
built b16 EG coupe.
Well i would start with the bolt on's. Get an intake, good header (if you can afford a type R you can afford a good header, plus you can sell the stock one) and 2.5" exhaust. Then get a good set of cams, valve springs and retainers, and some adjustable cam gears to really dial those cams in with. You will be surprised with the results you get b/c the ITR already has a pretty high compression ratio to begin with.
Well i would start with the bolt on's. Get an intake, good header (if you can afford a type R you can afford a good header, plus you can sell the stock one) and 2.5" exhaust. Then get a good set of cams, valve springs and retainers, and some adjustable cam gears to really dial those cams in with. You will be surprised with the results you get b/c the ITR already has a pretty high compression ratio to begin with.