1989 Accord revs and shuts off
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
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