1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
hi,
i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
the "igniter"?
is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
know about that?
hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
thanks and best wishes,
michael
i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
the "igniter"?
is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
know about that?
hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
thanks and best wishes,
michael
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
hi,
i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
the "igniter"?
is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
know about that?
hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
thanks and best wishes,
michael
i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
the "igniter"?
is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
know about that?
hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
thanks and best wishes,
michael
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Hi Mike
I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
similar to an Accord.
Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the
car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start
the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't
hurt anything, though).
Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the
screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on
the type of voltmeter you use.
If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
switch and trace it from there.
If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far
less likely.
(It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses,
it is most likely the ignitor.
I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
Hope this is of use to you.
Remco
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
similar to an Accord.
Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the
car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start
the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't
hurt anything, though).
Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the
screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on
the type of voltmeter you use.
If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
switch and trace it from there.
If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far
less likely.
(It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses,
it is most likely the ignitor.
I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
Hope this is of use to you.
Remco
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Hi Mike
I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
similar to an Accord.
Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the
car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start
the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't
hurt anything, though).
Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the
screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on
the type of voltmeter you use.
If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
switch and trace it from there.
If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far
less likely.
(It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses,
it is most likely the ignitor.
I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
Hope this is of use to you.
Remco
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
similar to an Accord.
Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn the
car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't start
the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes won't
hurt anything, though).
Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney - the
screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending on
the type of voltmeter you use.
If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
switch and trace it from there.
If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is far
less likely.
(It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see pulses,
it is most likely the ignitor.
I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
Hope this is of use to you.
Remco
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
"RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:wufhd.614$6z2.443313@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net. ..
> Hi Mike
>
> I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
> similar to an Accord.
>
> Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
> determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn
> the
> car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't
> start
> the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes
> won't
> hurt anything, though).
> Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney -
> the
> screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
> distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending
> on
> the type of voltmeter you use.
> If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
> coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
> switch and trace it from there.
>
> If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is
> far
> less likely.
> (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
> easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
> To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
> probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
> will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see
> pulses,
> it is most likely the ignitor.
> I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
> OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
>
> Hope this is of use to you.
> Remco
>
With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to
about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery
voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A
voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure.
If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to
about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when
the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad.
The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the
distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of
removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the
screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping
the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the
front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit.
> "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
> news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> hi,
>> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
>> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i
>> have
>> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test
>> for
>> the "igniter"?
>> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
>> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
>> know about that?
>>
>> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>>
>> thanks and best wishes,
>>
>> michael
>>
>
>
news:wufhd.614$6z2.443313@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net. ..
> Hi Mike
>
> I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
> similar to an Accord.
>
> Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
> determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn
> the
> car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't
> start
> the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes
> won't
> hurt anything, though).
> Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney -
> the
> screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
> distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending
> on
> the type of voltmeter you use.
> If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
> coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
> switch and trace it from there.
>
> If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is
> far
> less likely.
> (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
> easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
> To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
> probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
> will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see
> pulses,
> it is most likely the ignitor.
> I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
> OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
>
> Hope this is of use to you.
> Remco
>
With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to
about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery
voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A
voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure.
If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to
about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when
the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad.
The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the
distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of
removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the
screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping
the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the
front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit.
> "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
> news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> hi,
>> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
>> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i
>> have
>> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test
>> for
>> the "igniter"?
>> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
>> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
>> know about that?
>>
>> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>>
>> thanks and best wishes,
>>
>> michael
>>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
"RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:wufhd.614$6z2.443313@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net. ..
> Hi Mike
>
> I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
> similar to an Accord.
>
> Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
> determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn
> the
> car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't
> start
> the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes
> won't
> hurt anything, though).
> Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney -
> the
> screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
> distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending
> on
> the type of voltmeter you use.
> If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
> coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
> switch and trace it from there.
>
> If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is
> far
> less likely.
> (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
> easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
> To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
> probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
> will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see
> pulses,
> it is most likely the ignitor.
> I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
> OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
>
> Hope this is of use to you.
> Remco
>
With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to
about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery
voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A
voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure.
If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to
about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when
the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad.
The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the
distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of
removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the
screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping
the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the
front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit.
> "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
> news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> hi,
>> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
>> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i
>> have
>> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test
>> for
>> the "igniter"?
>> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
>> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
>> know about that?
>>
>> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>>
>> thanks and best wishes,
>>
>> michael
>>
>
>
news:wufhd.614$6z2.443313@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net. ..
> Hi Mike
>
> I am doing something very similar on an Integra, which I am sure is very
> similar to an Accord.
>
> Yes, the ignitor is a small module with four connections on it. First
> determine if you have 12V on this subsystem by taking the cap off. Turn
> the
> car to the 'on' position (where all your dash lights are on but don't
> start
> the car. Don't leave it in this position too long; a couple of minutes
> won't
> hurt anything, though).
> Probe on the coil primary (that thing that looks like it has a chimney -
> the
> screw contacts are primary) - you will see 12V if power is getting to the
> distributor. You will also see close to 12V on your secondary, depending
> on
> the type of voltmeter you use.
> If you see 12V on your primary and absolutely nothing on secondary, your
> coil is probably bad. If you don't see 12V anywhere, I'd check the starter
> switch and trace it from there.
>
> If you see 12V on the secondary, your coil could still be bad, but it is
> far
> less likely.
> (It could have cracks, as was the case with mine. The thing comes off
> easily, so you may want to inspect it.)
> To check the ignitor (ICM), you will need to have access to a scope and
> probe the input (i.e. 12 V or so -- not the secondary of the coil as that
> will blow your scope up) to the module and start the car. If you see
> pulses,
> it is most likely the ignitor.
> I bought a new aftermarket ignitor for under $70 at carpartsamerica.com --
> OEM retail was $205 so it pays to shop around.
>
> Hope this is of use to you.
> Remco
>
With the scope I could see the input on mine was toggling from ground to
about 10 or 12 volts, while the output (on the coil) stayed at battery
voltage without a trace of toggling. Your test procedure is right on. A
voltmeter may catch enough activity for a go/no-go test, but I'm not sure.
If it acts bad, it probably is. If the voltage pulses from about 12V to
about ground on the coil, without a multi-hundred volt positive spike when
the voltage is released from ground, the coil is more likely bad.
The 2 round head screws that hold the ignitor (on the outside of the
distributor) can be very tight. If you aren't going to go to the trouble of
removing the distributor (I don't blame you!) you may want to break the
screws loose with a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips) to avoid stripping
the heads. Those wires pull off the module, and that terminal nearest the
front is *supposed* to be bent over a bit.
> "toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
> news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> hi,
>> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
>> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i
>> have
>> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test
>> for
>> the "igniter"?
>> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
>> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
>> know about that?
>>
>> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>>
>> thanks and best wishes,
>>
>> michael
>>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
i have that distributor 30 bucks
i have a 90 distributor and a 92 distributor with the ignition coil and plug
wires.
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
wires.
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
i have that distributor 30 bucks
i have a 90 distributor and a 92 distributor with the ignition coil and plug
wires.
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
wires.
"toasty" <mikee@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:d8ea66c4ad25eeeb61ea2911c56251f7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> hi,
> i read your post about the ignition problem in honda accord......im in
> australia holidaying on the gold coast and my honda has stopped.....i have
> no spark at the plug leads and wondering if you could tell me the test for
> the "igniter"?
> is that the cream component inside the distributor with 4 or so wires?
> i note here that they also discuss a dry joint on one of the module...u
> know about that?
>
> hope u get this coz im in a bit of a bind!!
>
> thanks and best wishes,
>
> michael
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
flashes the ignitor is good.
all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
side of the coil.
i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
Chip
the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
flashes the ignitor is good.
all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
side of the coil.
i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
Chip
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
flashes the ignitor is good.
all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
side of the coil.
i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
Chip
the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
flashes the ignitor is good.
all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
side of the coil.
i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
Chip
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Cool trick - thanks, Chip!
I'll have to remember that one for next time.
With your honda experience, you should think about putting
ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard
mechanics would appreciate it.
Remco
chip@chipanddebby.com (Chip Stein) wrote in message news:<5ddcea74.0411011844.667a67e2@posting.google. com>...
> and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
> the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
> put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
> ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
> flashes the ignitor is good.
> all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
> side of the coil.
> i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
> Chip
I'll have to remember that one for next time.
With your honda experience, you should think about putting
ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard
mechanics would appreciate it.
Remco
chip@chipanddebby.com (Chip Stein) wrote in message news:<5ddcea74.0411011844.667a67e2@posting.google. com>...
> and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
> the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
> put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
> ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
> flashes the ignitor is good.
> all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
> side of the coil.
> i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
> Chip
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 Accord Dead Igntion
Cool trick - thanks, Chip!
I'll have to remember that one for next time.
With your honda experience, you should think about putting
ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard
mechanics would appreciate it.
Remco
chip@chipanddebby.com (Chip Stein) wrote in message news:<5ddcea74.0411011844.667a67e2@posting.google. com>...
> and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
> the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
> put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
> ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
> flashes the ignitor is good.
> all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
> side of the coil.
> i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
> Chip
I'll have to remember that one for next time.
With your honda experience, you should think about putting
ins-and-outs like that on a site someplace - I am sure all back yard
mechanics would appreciate it.
Remco
chip@chipanddebby.com (Chip Stein) wrote in message news:<5ddcea74.0411011844.667a67e2@posting.google. com>...
> and now the easy way.... pull the dist cap off. now find the wire on
> the ignitor that goes to the coil negative terminal and take it off.
> put a test light on the positive pole of the battery and connect the
> ground lead to the ignitor wire just removed. crank the engine, if it
> flashes the ignitor is good.
> all the ignitor does is make and break the ground on the primary
> side of the coil.
> i've been doing this for years, learned it at honda school.
> Chip
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