'86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Guest
Posts: n/a
'86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
would like to ask about the emissions...
Here are the results of the smog test...
GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
NOx 1504 1503 PASS
HC 194 120 PASS
CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
CO2% 13.9
O2% 0.7
When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably drove
it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH I'm
actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at the
actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a while
it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). That's
something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
replacement."
On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. For
left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken or
loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
anything.
Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be open
after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine in
my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned speeding
ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how fast
I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the road
in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive and
to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court case
and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. It's
just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
though.
In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
would appreciate it. Thanks.
Cory
would like to ask about the emissions...
Here are the results of the smog test...
GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
NOx 1504 1503 PASS
HC 194 120 PASS
CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
CO2% 13.9
O2% 0.7
When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably drove
it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH I'm
actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at the
actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a while
it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car). That's
something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
replacement."
On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement. For
left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken or
loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
anything.
Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be open
after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine in
my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned speeding
ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how fast
I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the road
in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive and
to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court case
and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work. It's
just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
though.
In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
would appreciate it. Thanks.
Cory
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
accident.
"Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
>
> When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
drove
> it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
I'm
> actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on NOx?
> If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
the
> actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone knows
> how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
>
> Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle of
> gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
while
> it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
That's
> something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off in
> the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the lower
> half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible to
> see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
>
>
> I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
>
> On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> replacement."
> On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
For
> left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
or
> loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> anything.
>
> Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
open
> after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
>
> I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh engine
in
> my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when I
> get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
speeding
> ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
fast
> I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
road
> in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
and
> to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
case
> and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
It's
> just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> though.
>
> In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension I
> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Cory
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use some help.
I've managed just fine in my '67 Galaxie with original springs and socks
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
that are probably 10 or more years old. The rotted out bottoms of the frame
rails surely didn't help stiffen anything up.
This little Honda is amazing compared to my '67, it's like it's glued to the
road. When turning really tight when it's wet out all the wheels start to
lose traction at about the same time... And even when I slam the brakes to
the floor it's very hard to lock a wheel. It stops on a dime. This thing is
a lot more nimble than my old Gal. My only complaint (besides it being so
small and hard to get out of) is that it's got no low end grunt like my Gal
did, but as long as I keep the revs up it'll move pretty quick.
Compared to my '68 Galaxie the Honda is 'only' a good improvement. The '68
has new shocks and under half the miles my '67 has ('67 has 202,000+ miles,
the '68 has ~97,000), as well as having no rot anywhere and the only rust is
surface rust on a few spots of the frame and two spots of cancer under the
vinyl top. With the '68 I could take turns quite tightly, though obviously
not tight like the Honda since my '68 is at least twice as big. Of course
the body tints/rolls a bit in tight turns, but the wheels stay planted on
the ground well enough. The front wheels will lose traction before the rear
so long as you aren't giving it too much gas... I like how with this Prelude
they all start to go at once, as it seems to be getting the most out of each
wheels contact with the ground.
In any case, the point is that if I did well in my '67 with ancient
shocks/springs I will be fine in a subcompact Honda from '86 that sits only
an inch or two off the ground and has a super stiff suspension. I've done
many emergency maneuvers in my '67 and it's come through and saved my life
every time. In this Honda I've be afraid to jump a curb at 30 MPH for fear
of crumpling in the front when the bumper hits the curb and destroying the
front end when the tires hit it. Now my Gal on the other hand can take that
without the slightest protest. I wouldn't do it regularly, but I wouldn't
hesitate to do it if I ever needed to again.
The people at the inspection station didn't seem competent enough to
actually tell me what the problem was or may be, only that there was
"something wrong with your front right wheel or suspension". I'm not worried
about the worn shocks, as the car handles great.
I am a little worried about the reason it failed though, as it could be a
safety issue. The inspection station people didn't seem concerned about it
and I have been driving the car for almost two weeks without any trouble so
I'm not too worried. I'll be getting an alignment now that I've stumbled
across some money today, and on Friday I'll have a look under the car to see
if anything is obviously wrong to me. I was hoping someone here could give
me a little direction or anything to think about/look at as my knowledge of
cars is all about '60s Fords. I've only ever gotten 'down and dirty' with a
few Galaxies and a Mustang. I know only the basics about a fancy hi-tech
modern car such as this Prelude I got two weeks ago. I'm very interested to
learn about it and how to work on it, but I have nod desire to spend any
more money than is absolutely necessary as this thing is just an econo-box
style beater. If a Toyota Tercel I was gonna get hadn't sold before I made
an offer I woulda been driving that. This is purely a utilitarian vehicle, I
want to keep it in good running order, but not spend more than is necessary
as that is that much less money I have to spend on my real cars. Heaven
forbid this thing actually doesn't cost me a fortune and I can save money
for the most important things in life than cars. That was part of the idea
behind buying it. It's a $300 car with no collector or hobbyist value, and
I'll be treating it as such.
Anyway, I went to the Cherry Hill inspection station. Got right in, only
waited less than a minute. Guess I picked a good time.
Cory
"Bill Freeman" <bfree@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:bnpjdd$145k8g$1@ID-82447.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Which inspection station? Used to live in NJ. They're trying to
> save your life, if you let them. Bad shocks in Jersey's heavy traffic and
> demanding roads precludes you from stopping and steering your way out of
> trouble. Add winter roads and you've a h_ll of chance in avoiding an
> accident.
>
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cadnews@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:L5Xnb.29843$4O1.7374@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First
I
> > would like to ask about the emissions...
> >
> > Here are the results of the smog test...
> > GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> > NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> > HC 194 120 PASS
> > CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> > CO2% 13.9
> > O2% 0.7
> >
> >
> > When they did the smog test they put the car on rollers and presumably
> drove
> > it at a certain speed. I will say that my speedometer is off... By my
> > speedometer readings at 25 MPH I'm actually going 30+ MPH and at 50 MPH
> I'm
> > actually going 60+ MPH. Would that explain by I just barely passed on
NOx?
> > If the engine is revving a bit higher than it would if it were going at
> the
> > actual speed they test at it would logically pollute more. If anyone
knows
> > how to calibrate the speedometer that would be helpful too.
> >
> > Also, the engine never really heats up to 'normal temperature' (middle
of
> > gauge) unless the car has been idling for a while. Driving normally it's
> > barely past cold and my heat is luke-warm to warm. After idling for a
> while
> > it gets hot. i think either my thermostat is stuck open or it's not
> > installed (there was a new one in the glove box when I got the car).
> That's
> > something I want to check one of these days as I'm freezing my *** off
in
> > the mornings and the defroster doesn't do crap. It barely keeps the
lower
> > half of the front window de-fogged and the side windows are impossible
to
> > see through from fog. It actually works better if I turn the temperature
> > thingy to a little above the middle of the heat range. In any case, what
> > would cause high such high NOx that I only passed by one point? I'll add
> > that the car runs well and seems pretty quick for a little 4 banger.
> >
> >
> > I failed safety due to "Suspension - automated inspection failed".
> >
> > On the printout it says "Check suspension components, recommend damper
> > replacement."
> > On the other page it says again it recommends front damper replacement.
> For
> > left wheel it says passed, but for right wheel it says "Check for broken
> or
> > loose components. Recommend Damper Replacement" There are no rattles or
> > anything.
> >
> > Also on the printout was that it said I had "sideslip" and to check
> > alignment. I knew that, but went anyway as I only had today and tomorrow
> > left and if I got an alignment today the inspection station wouldn't be
> open
> > after it was done and tomorrow I wouldn't get home early enough. The car
> > pulls fairly strongly to the right. Could the alignment being off badly
> > cause the problem it's saying about the front right wheel?
> >
> > I'm not gonna get new shocks as this is just an econo-box beater to get
> > better mileage than my '67 or '68 and to drive until I put a fresh
engine
> in
> > my '68. I can't get an alignment until mid-late November as that's when
I
> > get paid. I would have been able to do it sooner but I got a damned
> speeding
> > ticket for 62 in a 50... Gee whiz, I later found out that's exactly how
> fast
> > I'm going when my speedometer reads 50 MPH. It's pretty silly that the
> road
> > in question is posted so low too, as it's out in the boondocks with
> > virtually nothing around. In any case, my car is now less safe to drive
> and
> > to other motorists for a few weeks because I'll probably lose my court
> case
> > and have to pay $90 + court costs and my insurance will increase out the
> > wazoo. Not driving isn't an option as I need to go to school and work.
> It's
> > just a frustration I suppose. No big deal in the grand scheme of things
> > though.
> >
> > In any case, if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to the speedometer,
> > emissions thing or particularly what to look at in the front suspension
I
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 Prelude 1.8 dual carb failed inspection... I could use somehelp.
Cory Dunkle wrote:
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
>
> Firstly, this is in NJ and it passed emissions, but failed safety. First I
> would like to ask about the emissions...
>
> Here are the results of the smog test...
> GAS STANDARD READING RESULT
> NOx 1504 1503 PASS
> HC 194 120 PASS
> CO% 1.10 0.68 PASS
> CO2% 13.9
> O2% 0.7
>
Are these data from the idle test or the cruise test? Anyways, the CO seems
a little high as well as the NOx. Perhaps the car was not fully warmed up
or the cat is getting a little tired. If I remember correctly, the EGR
system is supposed to help reduce the NOx at speed. Perhaps the EGR valve
is either plugged or the vacuum diaphragm may have a leak.
A bad thermostat, i.e., stuck open, could have influenced your emissions
test result by not allowing the car to obtain a normal operating
temperature. I would replace it ASAP at least so you can see where you're
going when your windows start to fog over.
Undersized tires can cause your speedo to read too fast. Compare the size
you have on the car versus what the owner's manual recommends for stock
tires. You can go with lower profile tires for better performance if you
wish, but you must also go with larger diameter wheels in order to keep the
circumference the same.
If you can work on your own car, you can rent a spring compressor and
replace the struts yourself. I've got KYB GR2 gas struts on my car and
they've held up fairly well over the last 6 years. They also offer a
slightly firmer ride than stock struts but they're not so stiff that you'll
feel every bump in the road.
Eric
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