'88 accord LX rough idle problems
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 accord LX rough idle problems
Give it a good tuneup first, plugs, cap, rotor, air cleaner, fuel filters, then report back. 88 Accord should be fuel injection?
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900 RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900 RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 accord LX rough idle problems
Give it a good tuneup first, plugs, cap, rotor, air cleaner, fuel filters, then report back. 88 Accord should be fuel injection?
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900 RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900 RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
'88 accord LX rough idle problems
The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into gear
with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900 RPM,
still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to max.
The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
in reverse (?!)
Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked how
much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just letting
the car go.
Thanks,
-Chris
with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900 RPM,
still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to max.
The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
in reverse (?!)
Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked how
much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just letting
the car go.
Thanks,
-Chris
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 accord LX rough idle problems
I'd start off with an inspection (or, better yet, wholesale replacement) of
all the vacuum hoses under the hood. Cheap and can save you some headaches -
or at least doubts! I suspect one is cracked at one end.
Mike
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
> gear with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a
> bunch of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough
> ~750-900 RPM, still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the
> heater fan up to max. The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
> how much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
> letting the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
all the vacuum hoses under the hood. Cheap and can save you some headaches -
or at least doubts! I suspect one is cracked at one end.
Mike
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
> gear with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a
> bunch of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough
> ~750-900 RPM, still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the
> heater fan up to max. The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
> how much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
> letting the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 accord LX rough idle problems
I'd start off with an inspection (or, better yet, wholesale replacement) of
all the vacuum hoses under the hood. Cheap and can save you some headaches -
or at least doubts! I suspect one is cracked at one end.
Mike
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
> gear with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a
> bunch of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough
> ~750-900 RPM, still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the
> heater fan up to max. The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
> how much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
> letting the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
all the vacuum hoses under the hood. Cheap and can save you some headaches -
or at least doubts! I suspect one is cracked at one end.
Mike
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
> gear with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a
> bunch of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough
> ~750-900 RPM, still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the
> heater fan up to max. The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
> how much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
> letting the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 accord LX rough idle problems
IF I WERE YOU I WOULD DO A TUNE UP , SPARK PLUGS WIRES ROTOR CAP AND BOTH
FUEL FILTERS THERE IS A SECOND FILTER BYTHE GAS TANK. ALSO THE PCV VALVE AND
BREATHER FILTER, AIR FILTER, ALL THIS YOU CAN DO YOUR SELF. T HEN , IF THAT
DOESNT WORK YOU CAN SPRAY SOME KIND OF LIQUID ON ALL THE VACUUM HOSES, IF
THE IDLE CHANGES ITS A LEAK. IN FACT TO SAVE TIME. DO THE SPRAY TEST FIRST.
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900
RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to
max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
FUEL FILTERS THERE IS A SECOND FILTER BYTHE GAS TANK. ALSO THE PCV VALVE AND
BREATHER FILTER, AIR FILTER, ALL THIS YOU CAN DO YOUR SELF. T HEN , IF THAT
DOESNT WORK YOU CAN SPRAY SOME KIND OF LIQUID ON ALL THE VACUUM HOSES, IF
THE IDLE CHANGES ITS A LEAK. IN FACT TO SAVE TIME. DO THE SPRAY TEST FIRST.
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900
RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to
max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 accord LX rough idle problems
IF I WERE YOU I WOULD DO A TUNE UP , SPARK PLUGS WIRES ROTOR CAP AND BOTH
FUEL FILTERS THERE IS A SECOND FILTER BYTHE GAS TANK. ALSO THE PCV VALVE AND
BREATHER FILTER, AIR FILTER, ALL THIS YOU CAN DO YOUR SELF. T HEN , IF THAT
DOESNT WORK YOU CAN SPRAY SOME KIND OF LIQUID ON ALL THE VACUUM HOSES, IF
THE IDLE CHANGES ITS A LEAK. IN FACT TO SAVE TIME. DO THE SPRAY TEST FIRST.
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900
RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to
max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
FUEL FILTERS THERE IS A SECOND FILTER BYTHE GAS TANK. ALSO THE PCV VALVE AND
BREATHER FILTER, AIR FILTER, ALL THIS YOU CAN DO YOUR SELF. T HEN , IF THAT
DOESNT WORK YOU CAN SPRAY SOME KIND OF LIQUID ON ALL THE VACUUM HOSES, IF
THE IDLE CHANGES ITS A LEAK. IN FACT TO SAVE TIME. DO THE SPRAY TEST FIRST.
"Chris Hayden" <musicalmerlin@msn.com> wrote in message
news:10ot5ilo1fqavfe@corp.supernews.com...
> The car starts fine. Once it warms up, if the transmission is put into
gear
> with brake on, the idle will drop to ~250 RPM and the engine makes a bunch
> of metallic pings before it picks back up and runs at a rough ~750-900
RPM,
> still idling. I also get a rougher idle if I turn the heater fan up to
max.
> The car also acts really logey from a standstill.
>
> The problem doesn't occur if it's already idling ok in gear and I swap it,
> say from reverse to forward or vice-versa. Also, car seems to idle better
> in reverse (?!)
>
> Any thoughts? My mechanic thought the carb needed rebuilding and asked
how
> much money I wanted to throw at the car. I haven't looked at the fuel
> filters yet, but want to know if it is worth worrying about or just
letting
> the car go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>
>
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