|
90 Civic valve issue...
I bought a 90 Civic Hatch at 129K from a mechanic who told me that the
valves were just redone.... We I found it was consuming oil I took it back and he fiddled with the PCV and declared it fixed. When it wasn't he started saying Oh-well...and I'll sell you this other car, classic evasion... I basically just kept driving and watching the oil. It doesn't emit smoke at all when started but under load and when cold it smokes more. I think it eats a quart in 300 miles.. One question is, if you fix the head do you usually need to fiddle with rings? (complete rebuild?) The other question is, is how is it possible that compression checks out (or it used to) and it still burns oil? Recently, while at highway speeds with not as much oil as I'd like on the dipstick (at the bottom hole) I felt a surge and a loss of power, and it was rather rough after that. Now it wobbles at low rpm but at high speed I almost can't tell.. Mechanic says there is one piston with not much compression. He said the plugs were pretty fowled and put in new. The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. So any opinions? Shoot the thing and move on? -D |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
In article <3F5B2694.90604@yahoo.com>, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I bought a 90 Civic Hatch at 129K from a mechanic who told me that the > valves were just redone.... We I found it was consuming oil I took it > back and he fiddled with the PCV and declared it fixed. When it wasn't > he started saying Oh-well...and I'll sell you this other car, classic > evasion... I basically just kept driving and watching the oil. It > doesn't emit smoke at all when started but under load and when cold it > smokes more. I think it eats a quart in 300 miles.. One question is, if > you fix the head do you usually need to fiddle with rings? (complete > rebuild?) The other question is, is how is it possible that compression > checks out (or it used to) and it still burns oil? > > Recently, while at highway speeds with not as much oil as I'd like on > the dipstick (at the bottom hole) I felt a surge and a loss of power, > and it was rather rough after that. Now it wobbles at low rpm but at > high speed I almost can't tell.. Mechanic says there is one piston with > not much compression. He said the plugs were pretty fowled and put in > new. The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > > So any opinions? Shoot the thing and move on? > > -D One problem with engines that have over 100,000 miles is that the rings wear out. If that happens, the only solution is to take the engine apart and replace the rings. In some cases, the damaged rings may do some minor damage to the cylinder walls. This means those walls have to be worked on. A mechanic may charge you over $1000.00 to do this sort of work since it takes lots of time. I advise you to trade it in on another car unless you really love the car. Of course, I could be wrong so you might want a mechanic to take a look at it in case it's a more minor problem. |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
In article <3F5B2694.90604@yahoo.com>, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I bought a 90 Civic Hatch at 129K from a mechanic who told me that the > valves were just redone.... We I found it was consuming oil I took it > back and he fiddled with the PCV and declared it fixed. When it wasn't > he started saying Oh-well...and I'll sell you this other car, classic > evasion... I basically just kept driving and watching the oil. It > doesn't emit smoke at all when started but under load and when cold it > smokes more. I think it eats a quart in 300 miles.. One question is, if > you fix the head do you usually need to fiddle with rings? (complete > rebuild?) The other question is, is how is it possible that compression > checks out (or it used to) and it still burns oil? > > Recently, while at highway speeds with not as much oil as I'd like on > the dipstick (at the bottom hole) I felt a surge and a loss of power, > and it was rather rough after that. Now it wobbles at low rpm but at > high speed I almost can't tell.. Mechanic says there is one piston with > not much compression. He said the plugs were pretty fowled and put in > new. The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > > So any opinions? Shoot the thing and move on? > > -D One problem with engines that have over 100,000 miles is that the rings wear out. If that happens, the only solution is to take the engine apart and replace the rings. In some cases, the damaged rings may do some minor damage to the cylinder walls. This means those walls have to be worked on. A mechanic may charge you over $1000.00 to do this sort of work since it takes lots of time. I advise you to trade it in on another car unless you really love the car. Of course, I could be wrong so you might want a mechanic to take a look at it in case it's a more minor problem. |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
meld_b wrote:
> > I bought a 90 Civic Hatch at 129K from a mechanic who told me that the > valves were just redone.... We I found it was consuming oil I took it > back and he fiddled with the PCV and declared it fixed. When it wasn't > he started saying Oh-well...and I'll sell you this other car, classic > evasion... I basically just kept driving and watching the oil. It > doesn't emit smoke at all when started but under load and when cold it > smokes more. I think it eats a quart in 300 miles.. One question is, if > you fix the head do you usually need to fiddle with rings? (complete > rebuild?) The other question is, is how is it possible that compression > checks out (or it used to) and it still burns oil? Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not occur. > Recently, while at highway speeds with not as much oil as I'd like on > the dipstick (at the bottom hole) I felt a surge and a loss of power, > and it was rather rough after that. Now it wobbles at low rpm but at > high speed I almost can't tell.. Mechanic says there is one piston with > not much compression. He said the plugs were pretty fowled and put in > new. It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and sequence of the LED flashes. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
meld_b wrote:
> > I bought a 90 Civic Hatch at 129K from a mechanic who told me that the > valves were just redone.... We I found it was consuming oil I took it > back and he fiddled with the PCV and declared it fixed. When it wasn't > he started saying Oh-well...and I'll sell you this other car, classic > evasion... I basically just kept driving and watching the oil. It > doesn't emit smoke at all when started but under load and when cold it > smokes more. I think it eats a quart in 300 miles.. One question is, if > you fix the head do you usually need to fiddle with rings? (complete > rebuild?) The other question is, is how is it possible that compression > checks out (or it used to) and it still burns oil? Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not occur. > Recently, while at highway speeds with not as much oil as I'd like on > the dipstick (at the bottom hole) I felt a surge and a loss of power, > and it was rather rough after that. Now it wobbles at low rpm but at > high speed I almost can't tell.. Mechanic says there is one piston with > not much compression. He said the plugs were pretty fowled and put in > new. It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and sequence of the LED flashes. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the
valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? -Dan Eric wrote: > meld_b wrote: Chop...still burns oil? > > > Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these > motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. > It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not > occur. > > > It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a > cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the > compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the > valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. > Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to > obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > > >>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting >>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > > If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. > The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side > floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and > sequence of the LED flashes. > > Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the
valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? -Dan Eric wrote: > meld_b wrote: Chop...still burns oil? > > > Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these > motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. > It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not > occur. > > > It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a > cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the > compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the > valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. > Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to > obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > > >>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting >>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > > If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. > The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side > floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and > sequence of the LED flashes. > > Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
On Tue, 09 Sep 2003 03:23:29 GMT, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote:
|Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the |valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which |I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) | |The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says | the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery |Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's |still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for |another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! | |Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to |have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? If the car is otherwise sound and everything works, why don't you just have the motor changed? You should be able to get that done with a low-mileage engine for about $1000, maybe less. Then you'd have a car that would serve you well for years. Rex in Fort Worth |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
On Tue, 09 Sep 2003 03:23:29 GMT, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote:
|Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the |valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which |I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) | |The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says | the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery |Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's |still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for |another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! | |Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to |have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? If the car is otherwise sound and everything works, why don't you just have the motor changed? You should be able to get that done with a low-mileage engine for about $1000, maybe less. Then you'd have a car that would serve you well for years. Rex in Fort Worth |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
In article <3f5de3a8.414959454@news.txol.net>, rex@inoli.com wrote:
> On Tue, 09 Sep 2003 03:23:29 GMT, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote: > > |Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the > |valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which > |I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) > | > |The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says > | the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery > |Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's > |still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for > |another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! > | > |Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to > |have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? > > If the car is otherwise sound and everything works, why don't you just have the > motor changed? You should be able to get that done with a low-mileage engine > for about $1000, maybe less. Then you'd have a car that would serve you well > for years. > Rex in Fort Worth That's great advice and I should have mentioned it in my post. Thanks for your excellent post. |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
In article <3f5de3a8.414959454@news.txol.net>, rex@inoli.com wrote:
> On Tue, 09 Sep 2003 03:23:29 GMT, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote: > > |Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the > |valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which > |I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) > | > |The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says > | the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery > |Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's > |still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for > |another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! > | > |Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to > |have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? > > If the car is otherwise sound and everything works, why don't you just have the > motor changed? You should be able to get that done with a low-mileage engine > for about $1000, maybe less. Then you'd have a car that would serve you well > for years. > Rex in Fort Worth That's great advice and I should have mentioned it in my post. Thanks for your excellent post. |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds and it's been that way for about 4 years now! Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and restore the car at some point if possible. My point is, these Japanese cars -- even "wounded" -- can be pretty reliable and definitely "get you around" despite their ills! Can't complain here!! John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5D47B0.2020302@yahoo.com>... > Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the > valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which > I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) > > The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says > the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery > Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's > still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for > another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! > > Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to > have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? > > -Dan > > Eric wrote: > > meld_b wrote: > Chop...still burns oil? > > > > > > Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these > > motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. > > It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not > > occur. > > > > > > It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a > > cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the > > compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the > > valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. > > Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to > > obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > > > > > >>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > >>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > > > > If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. > > The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side > > floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and > > sequence of the LED flashes. > > > > Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds and it's been that way for about 4 years now! Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and restore the car at some point if possible. My point is, these Japanese cars -- even "wounded" -- can be pretty reliable and definitely "get you around" despite their ills! Can't complain here!! John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5D47B0.2020302@yahoo.com>... > Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the > valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which > I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) > > The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says > the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery > Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's > still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for > another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! > > Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to > have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? > > -Dan > > Eric wrote: > > meld_b wrote: > Chop...still burns oil? > > > > > > Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these > > motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. > > It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not > > occur. > > > > > > It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a > > cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the > > compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the > > valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. > > Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to > > obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > > > > > >>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > >>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > > > > If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. > > The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side > > floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and > > sequence of the LED flashes. > > > > Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Wow - 4 years! I find it a little scary with all the SUV's around
pulling out into traffic, with a engine that isn't really all there. My wife is opposed to putting an engine in this car... I only paid about $2500. Engine availability is not really the problem. I was thinking of checking the milage one last time and putting it in the paper. See what I could get.... I see all these "engine needs work" at the same year for $800, Edmunds says more like $500 for "Average" or "Rough" -D I did see that there are lots of engines around John D. wrote: > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > restore the car at some point if possible. > > My point is, these Japanese cars -- even "wounded" -- can be pretty > reliable and definitely "get you around" despite their ills! Can't > complain here!! > > John D. > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5D47B0.2020302@yahoo.com>... > >>Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the >>valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which >>I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) >> >>The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says >> the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery >>Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's >>still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for >>another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! >> >>Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to >>have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? >> >>-Dan >> >>Eric wrote: >> >>>meld_b wrote: >> >> Chop...still burns oil? >> >>> >>>Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these >>>motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. >>>It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not >>>occur. >>> >>> >>>It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a >>>cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the >>>compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the >>>valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. >>>Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to >>>obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. >>> >>> >>> >>>>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting >>>>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. >>> >>>If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. >>>The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side >>>floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and >>>sequence of the LED flashes. >>> >>>Eric >> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Wow - 4 years! I find it a little scary with all the SUV's around
pulling out into traffic, with a engine that isn't really all there. My wife is opposed to putting an engine in this car... I only paid about $2500. Engine availability is not really the problem. I was thinking of checking the milage one last time and putting it in the paper. See what I could get.... I see all these "engine needs work" at the same year for $800, Edmunds says more like $500 for "Average" or "Rough" -D I did see that there are lots of engines around John D. wrote: > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > restore the car at some point if possible. > > My point is, these Japanese cars -- even "wounded" -- can be pretty > reliable and definitely "get you around" despite their ills! Can't > complain here!! > > John D. > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5D47B0.2020302@yahoo.com>... > >>Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the >>valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which >>I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) >> >>The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says >> the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery >>Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's >>still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for >>another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! >> >>Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to >>have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? >> >>-Dan >> >>Eric wrote: >> >>>meld_b wrote: >> >> Chop...still burns oil? >> >>> >>>Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these >>>motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. >>>It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not >>>occur. >>> >>> >>>It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a >>>cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the >>>compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the >>>valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. >>>Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to >>>obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. >>> >>> >>> >>>>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting >>>>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. >>> >>>If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. >>>The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side >>>floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and >>>sequence of the LED flashes. >>> >>>Eric >> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Yeah...but you couldn't tell anything was wrong listening to it
idling. As for SUVs, I'm in no hurry like most everyone else is, but I stay in the right "slow" lane regardless...they can pass me all they want. Let's see if ANY of them are still on the road in 30 years...probably not...I pass a lot of them broken down on the shoulder or "camping out" on the freeway medians during holidays. ;-) John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5EACE3.9090104@yahoo.com>... > Wow - 4 years! I find it a little scary with all the SUV's around > pulling out into traffic, with a engine that isn't really all there. > > My wife is opposed to putting an engine in this car... I only paid about > $2500. Engine availability is not really the problem. I was thinking of > checking the milage one last time and putting it in the paper. See what > I could get.... I see all these "engine needs work" at the same year for > $800, Edmunds says more like $500 for "Average" or "Rough" > > -D > > I did see that there are lots of engines around > > John D. wrote: > > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > > restore the car at some point if possible. > > > > My point is, these Japanese cars -- even "wounded" -- can be pretty > > reliable and definitely "get you around" despite their ills! Can't > > complain here!! > > > > John D. > > > > > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5D47B0.2020302@yahoo.com>... > > > >>Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the > >>valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which > >>I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) > >> > >>The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says > >> the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery > >>Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's > >>still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for > >>another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! > >> > >>Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to > >>have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? > >> > >>-Dan > >> > >>Eric wrote: > >> > >>>meld_b wrote: > >> > >> Chop...still burns oil? > >> > >>> > >>>Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these > >>>motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. > >>>It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not > >>>occur. > >>> > >>> > >>>It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a > >>>cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the > >>>compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the > >>>valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. > >>>Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to > >>>obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > >>>>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > >>> > >>>If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. > >>>The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side > >>>floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and > >>>sequence of the LED flashes. > >>> > >>>Eric > >> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Yeah...but you couldn't tell anything was wrong listening to it
idling. As for SUVs, I'm in no hurry like most everyone else is, but I stay in the right "slow" lane regardless...they can pass me all they want. Let's see if ANY of them are still on the road in 30 years...probably not...I pass a lot of them broken down on the shoulder or "camping out" on the freeway medians during holidays. ;-) John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5EACE3.9090104@yahoo.com>... > Wow - 4 years! I find it a little scary with all the SUV's around > pulling out into traffic, with a engine that isn't really all there. > > My wife is opposed to putting an engine in this car... I only paid about > $2500. Engine availability is not really the problem. I was thinking of > checking the milage one last time and putting it in the paper. See what > I could get.... I see all these "engine needs work" at the same year for > $800, Edmunds says more like $500 for "Average" or "Rough" > > -D > > I did see that there are lots of engines around > > John D. wrote: > > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > > restore the car at some point if possible. > > > > My point is, these Japanese cars -- even "wounded" -- can be pretty > > reliable and definitely "get you around" despite their ills! Can't > > complain here!! > > > > John D. > > > > > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5D47B0.2020302@yahoo.com>... > > > >>Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the > >>valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which > >>I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) > >> > >>The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says > >> the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery > >>Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's > >>still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for > >>another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! > >> > >>Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to > >>have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? > >> > >>-Dan > >> > >>Eric wrote: > >> > >>>meld_b wrote: > >> > >> Chop...still burns oil? > >> > >>> > >>>Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these > >>>motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. > >>>It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not > >>>occur. > >>> > >>> > >>>It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a > >>>cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the > >>>compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the > >>>valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. > >>>Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to > >>>obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > >>>>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > >>> > >>>If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. > >>>The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side > >>>floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and > >>>sequence of the LED flashes. > >>> > >>>Eric > >> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Yeah...but you couldn't tell anything was wrong listening to it
idling. As for SUVs, I'm in no hurry like most everyone else is, but I stay in the right "slow" lane regardless...they can pass me all they want. Let's see if ANY of them are still on the road in 30 years...probably not...I pass a lot of them broken down on the shoulder or "camping out" on the freeway medians during holidays. ;-) John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5EACE3.9090104@yahoo.com>... > Wow - 4 years! I find it a little scary with all the SUV's around > pulling out into traffic, with a engine that isn't really all there. > > My wife is opposed to putting an engine in this car... I only paid about > $2500. Engine availability is not really the problem. I was thinking of > checking the milage one last time and putting it in the paper. See what > I could get.... I see all these "engine needs work" at the same year for > $800, Edmunds says more like $500 for "Average" or "Rough" > > -D > > I did see that there are lots of engines around > > John D. wrote: > > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > > restore the car at some point if possible. > > > > My point is, these Japanese cars -- even "wounded" -- can be pretty > > reliable and definitely "get you around" despite their ills! Can't > > complain here!! > > > > John D. > > > > > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F5D47B0.2020302@yahoo.com>... > > > >>Thanks guys - There are two mechanics involved... The one that did the > >>valve work and eventually admitted that he didn't work on rings - Which > >>I've now learned he should have. (Hindsight is 20/20) > >> > >>The second mechanic is much more trusted and I believe him when he says > >> the compression is low in one cyl. I just put some Marvel's Mystery > >>Oil in for the fun of it, and it is significantly less wobbly! It's > >>still there when going just at the wrong RPM. I have started looking for > >>another vehicle. It's neat how it is STILL moving me around! > >> > >>Did Honda change any designs so that later years would be less likely to > >>have this sort of thing happen? Is the Accord different than the Civic? > >> > >>-Dan > >> > >>Eric wrote: > >> > >>>meld_b wrote: > >> > >> Chop...still burns oil? > >> > >>> > >>>Often times, simply replacing a head gasket or doing other head work on these > >>>motors without doing any work on the rings will lead to high oil consumption. > >>>It is best to rering the engine in order to ensure that this problem does not > >>>occur. > >>> > >>> > >>>It sounds like this mechanic may be trying to cover up something. It there's a > >>>cylinder low on compression, then you need to find out why. For example, is the > >>>compression loss occurring past the rings or via the valves? If it's past the > >>>valves and this mechanic did the valve work, then he could be held responsible. > >>>Note that you may want to take it to another mechanic for diagnosis in order to > >>>obtain (hopefully) an unbiased and honest assessment of the situation. > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>>The Engine light had been seen a couple of times and I was getting > >>>>ready to put an 02 sensor and plugs in. > >>> > >>>If the engine light has come on, then it might have set some codes in the ECU. > >>>The codes are accessed by pulling up the front of carpet on the passenger side > >>>floor, turning the key to the on position, and then counting the number and > >>>sequence of the LED flashes. > >>> > >>>Eric > >> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
"John D." wrote:
> > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > restore the car at some point if possible. That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
"John D." wrote:
> > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > restore the car at some point if possible. That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
"John D." wrote:
> > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > restore the car at some point if possible. That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Eric,
I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as you suggest. I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 cylinder though... John D. Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > "John D." wrote: > > > > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > > restore the car at some point if possible. > > That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of > mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in > this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to > incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an > emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter > to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash > the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. > > Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Eric,
I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as you suggest. I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 cylinder though... John D. Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > "John D." wrote: > > > > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > > restore the car at some point if possible. > > That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of > mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in > this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to > incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an > emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter > to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash > the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. > > Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Eric,
I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as you suggest. I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 cylinder though... John D. Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > "John D." wrote: > > > > Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > > with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > > and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > > > > Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > > Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > > engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > > like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > > REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > > well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > > restore the car at some point if possible. > > That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of > mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in > this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to > incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an > emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter > to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash > the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. > > Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
addition 8-) I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? -D John D. wrote: > Eric, > > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. > > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as > you suggest. > > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 > cylinder though... > > John D. > > > > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > >>"John D." wrote: >> >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! >>> >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and >>>restore the car at some point if possible. >> >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. >> >>Eric > |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
addition 8-) I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? -D John D. wrote: > Eric, > > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. > > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as > you suggest. > > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 > cylinder though... > > John D. > > > > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > >>"John D." wrote: >> >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! >>> >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and >>>restore the car at some point if possible. >> >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. >> >>Eric > |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
addition 8-) I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? -D John D. wrote: > Eric, > > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. > > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as > you suggest. > > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 > cylinder though... > > John D. > > > > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > >>"John D." wrote: >> >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! >>> >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and >>>restore the car at some point if possible. >> >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. >> >>Eric > |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
If you add a couple of squirts of oil to the problem cylinder and redo the
compression test you should be able to determine if it's the rings or the valves. The compression should come up if the problem is in the rings, while there should be little change if it's the valves. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
If you add a couple of squirts of oil to the problem cylinder and redo the
compression test you should be able to determine if it's the rings or the valves. The compression should come up if the problem is in the rings, while there should be little change if it's the valves. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
If you add a couple of squirts of oil to the problem cylinder and redo the
compression test you should be able to determine if it's the rings or the valves. The compression should come up if the problem is in the rings, while there should be little change if it's the valves. Eric |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Meld,
Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment living, don't want a house at this point in my life. As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure what the cause is. As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off, your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well. Good luck, John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>... > No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house > addition 8-) > > I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess > the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were > 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the > last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there > is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The > frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... > > What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of > ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? > > If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have > been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a > good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves > done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" > he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. > > The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on > all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you > have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? > > -D > > > > John D. wrote: > > Eric, > > > > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. > > > > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as > > you suggest. > > > > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car > > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 > > cylinder though... > > > > John D. > > > > > > > > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > > > >>"John D." wrote: > >> > >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > >>> > >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > >>>restore the car at some point if possible. > >> > >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of > >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in > >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to > >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an > >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter > >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash > >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. > >> > >>Eric > > |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Meld,
Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment living, don't want a house at this point in my life. As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure what the cause is. As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off, your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well. Good luck, John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>... > No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house > addition 8-) > > I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess > the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were > 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the > last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there > is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The > frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... > > What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of > ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? > > If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have > been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a > good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves > done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" > he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. > > The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on > all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you > have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? > > -D > > > > John D. wrote: > > Eric, > > > > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. > > > > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as > > you suggest. > > > > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car > > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 > > cylinder though... > > > > John D. > > > > > > > > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > > > >>"John D." wrote: > >> > >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > >>> > >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > >>>restore the car at some point if possible. > >> > >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of > >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in > >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to > >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an > >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter > >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash > >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. > >> > >>Eric > > |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Meld,
Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment living, don't want a house at this point in my life. As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure what the cause is. As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off, your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well. Good luck, John D. meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>... > No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house > addition 8-) > > I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess > the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were > 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the > last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there > is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The > frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... > > What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of > ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? > > If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have > been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a > good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves > done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" > he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. > > The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on > all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you > have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? > > -D > > > > John D. wrote: > > Eric, > > > > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. > > > > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as > > you suggest. > > > > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car > > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 > > cylinder though... > > > > John D. > > > > > > > > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... > > > >>"John D." wrote: > >> > >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder > >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds > >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! > >>> > >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 > >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured > >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car > >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably > >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty > >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and > >>>restore the car at some point if possible. > >> > >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of > >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in > >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to > >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an > >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter > >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash > >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. > >> > >>Eric > > |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
will help me with the scored pistons right? I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to have the numbers. -D John D. wrote: > Meld, > > Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor > folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an > older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment > living, don't want a house at this point in my life. > > As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years > old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the > car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure > what the cause is. > > As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until > you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes > (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the > head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off, > your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well. > > Good luck, > > John D. > > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>... > >>No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house >>addition 8-) >> >>I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess >>the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were >>37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the >>last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there >>is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The >>frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... >> >>What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of >>ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? >> >>If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have >>been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a >>good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves >>done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" >>he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. >> >>The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on >>all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you >>have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? >> >>-D >> >> >> >>John D. wrote: >> >>>Eric, >>> >>>I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. >>> >>>But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as >>>you suggest. >>> >>>I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car >>>has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 >>>cylinder though... >>> >>>John D. >>> >>> >>> >>>Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... >>> >>> >>>>"John D." wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder >>>>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds >>>>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! >>>>> >>>>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 >>>>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured >>>>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car >>>>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably >>>>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty >>>>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and >>>>>restore the car at some point if possible. >>>> >>>>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of >>>>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in >>>>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to >>>>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an >>>>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter >>>>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash >>>>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. >>>> >>>>Eric >>> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
will help me with the scored pistons right? I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to have the numbers. -D John D. wrote: > Meld, > > Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor > folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an > older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment > living, don't want a house at this point in my life. > > As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years > old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the > car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure > what the cause is. > > As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until > you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes > (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the > head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off, > your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well. > > Good luck, > > John D. > > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>... > >>No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house >>addition 8-) >> >>I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess >>the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were >>37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the >>last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there >>is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The >>frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... >> >>What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of >>ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? >> >>If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have >>been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a >>good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves >>done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" >>he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. >> >>The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on >>all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you >>have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? >> >>-D >> >> >> >>John D. wrote: >> >>>Eric, >>> >>>I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. >>> >>>But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as >>>you suggest. >>> >>>I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car >>>has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 >>>cylinder though... >>> >>>John D. >>> >>> >>> >>>Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... >>> >>> >>>>"John D." wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder >>>>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds >>>>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! >>>>> >>>>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 >>>>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured >>>>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car >>>>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably >>>>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty >>>>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and >>>>>restore the car at some point if possible. >>>> >>>>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of >>>>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in >>>>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to >>>>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an >>>>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter >>>>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash >>>>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. >>>> >>>>Eric >>> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
will help me with the scored pistons right? I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to have the numbers. -D John D. wrote: > Meld, > > Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor > folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an > older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment > living, don't want a house at this point in my life. > > As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years > old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the > car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure > what the cause is. > > As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until > you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes > (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the > head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off, > your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well. > > Good luck, > > John D. > > > > > meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>... > >>No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house >>addition 8-) >> >>I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess >>the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were >>37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the >>last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there >>is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The >>frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around... >> >>What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of >>ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself? >> >>If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have >>been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a >>good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves >>done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape" >>he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning. >> >>The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on >>all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you >>have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test? >> >>-D >> >> >> >>John D. wrote: >> >>>Eric, >>> >>>I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor. >>> >>>But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as >>>you suggest. >>> >>>I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car >>>has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2 >>>cylinder though... >>> >>>John D. >>> >>> >>> >>>Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>... >>> >>> >>>>"John D." wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder >>>>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds >>>>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now! >>>>> >>>>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973 >>>>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured >>>>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car >>>>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably >>>>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty >>>>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and >>>>>restore the car at some point if possible. >>>> >>>>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of >>>>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in >>>>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to >>>>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an >>>>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter >>>>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash >>>>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear. >>>> >>>>Eric >>> |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
meld_b wrote:
> > Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore > will help me with the scored pistons right? Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders. > I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target > compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to > have the numbers. 250 rpm and wide open throttle nominal 185 psi minimum 135 psi max variation 28 psi |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
meld_b wrote:
> > Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore > will help me with the scored pistons right? Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders. > I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target > compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to > have the numbers. 250 rpm and wide open throttle nominal 185 psi minimum 135 psi max variation 28 psi |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
meld_b wrote:
> > Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore > will help me with the scored pistons right? Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders. > I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target > compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to > have the numbers. 250 rpm and wide open throttle nominal 185 psi minimum 135 psi max variation 28 psi |
Re: 90 Civic valve issue...
Thanks - I'm learning here... Is 250 RPM what the starter spins? What
does the wide open throttle do for you? I'm thinking these numbers are what you use to compare to when you have a four plugs pulled and you put the compression checker in each cylinder and have someone crank it? So they need to floor it too!? I measured 140-145 on all 4 before the incident and it was burning oil like crazy ... so I must have done something wrong... or loss of compression isn't why this was burning oil. The PCV was checked and thought to be fine. I feel like I need to learn this lesson before I buy the next car. -D Eric wrote: > meld_b wrote: > >>Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore >>will help me with the scored pistons right? > > > Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm > not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that > claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders. > > >>I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target >>compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to >>have the numbers. > > > 250 rpm and wide open throttle > nominal 185 psi > minimum 135 psi > max variation 28 psi |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:36 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands