Chris Driscoll

It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to replace
brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job a bit easier?

I still plan on taking it somewhere to get an estimate and probably get the work
done there as well, but I may ask them if I can watch the mechanic do the job.

I'm not really sure what tools are required or anything like that.. I'd just
like to be able to do this on my own in the future and just looking for some
advice here .

Thanks,
Chris

Eric

Chris Driscoll wrote:
>
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
> replace brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job
> a bit easier?

An online version of the factory service manual is available at
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html

Eric

Eric

Chris Driscoll wrote:
>
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
> replace brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job
> a bit easier?

An online version of the factory service manual is available at
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html

Eric

Eric

Chris Driscoll wrote:
>
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
> replace brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job
> a bit easier?

An online version of the factory service manual is available at
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html

Eric

Eric

Chris Driscoll wrote:
>
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
> replace brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job
> a bit easier?

An online version of the factory service manual is available at
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html

Eric

Peter O

Chris,

I have just done this on my 91 Prelude & these are the key points:
1) Purchase new pads generics from reputable supplier are usually OK Honda
priginals not needed.
2) Purchase spray can of "Brake Clean" several types available & all work
well.
3) Be sure you have reliable jacks & axle stands, this is an important
safety issue & is the single most important aspect of any reapair - under no
circumstances take any avaoidable risk. I have a couple of low cost trolley
jacks of Taiwanese origin which I use together to lift front or rear, then
lower onto axle stands. Never trust any jack & do not put yourself in "at
risk position" until the vehicle is demonstrably stable on axle stands with
any wheels on ground properly chocked. Remember we often have to work on
uneven or sloping ground & the handbrake will be off so ensure the vehicle
can't move.
4) Dismantling the caliper assembly from wheel hub is straightforward but
will require ring/open end spanners of correct size, a low cost set of
spanners is OK.
5) Note carefully how the pads are fitted into the calipers as you
dismantle, there may be special shims, not where & how these are fitted.
Take a pic if digital camera available otherwise make quick drawing, its
easy to forget the detail if you get distracted or have to go do something
else.
6) Now the key point, you have to force the caliper pistons back into the
caliper body in order to accomodate the increased thickness of the new pads.
How this is done varies from vehicle to vehicle but on Hondas the pistons
are wound in, (clockwise in from memory) but this you can establish for sure
on the job. Before you do this & best before caliper dismantling, use the
spray cleaner generously to clean the whole assembly. Repeat until all items
are clean & don't breath the spay.
The pistons are not easy to grip & turn, but I found a regular pair of
"Plumbers multi-grips" laying in my toolbox, adjusted to accept the piston
diameter, did the job just fine, a few degrees at a time. Be careful not to
destroy the seal boot around piston base. Prior to this you may need to
clean grime from piston walls which may not clean up with the spray alone,
use any convenient product; steel wool, nylon abrasive cloth, fine
carborundum paper etc.
I used a 6 inch steel rule to measure my progress & to ensure I did not
overwind the pistons, fairly simple & staraightforward.
Note that this may cause fluid loss from brake fluid reservoir, just place
rags around to mop up.
6) Before reassembly you will need to decide whether your discs require
re-machining. It's difficult to advise how you can decide this but if the
discs are badly grooved or enevenly worn or your brakes exhibited vibration
prior to repair then machining is desirable. A repair shop will rotate the
discs on car against a deflection indicating gauge to check for warping &
judge the surface by eye relying on experience.
I was able to have a mobile machinist visit the house & machine the discs in
the back of the van at quite modest cost so if this service is available I
would nachine the disca anyway just to be sure.
7) Reassemble, be sure to tighten all studs muts etc to the approv torque
needed to dismantle.
8) Optional: bleed the brakes thoroughly until you see clean bubble free
fluid. Be sure to use new brake fluid to manufacturers spec.
9) Brakes should self adjust but vigorous use in road test may be needed to
accomplish this.
Hope this is hekpful & I have all the important stuff - good luck.

Pete

"Chris Driscoll" <ack@sio.midco.net> wrote in message
news:vrj3d91s5gi3c6@corp.supernews.com...
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
replace
> brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job a bit
easier?
>
> I still plan on taking it somewhere to get an estimate and probably get
the work
> done there as well, but I may ask them if I can watch the mechanic do the
job.
>
> I'm not really sure what tools are required or anything like that.. I'd
just
> like to be able to do this on my own in the future and just looking for
some
> advice here .
>
> Thanks,
> Chris

Peter O

Chris,

I have just done this on my 91 Prelude & these are the key points:
1) Purchase new pads generics from reputable supplier are usually OK Honda
priginals not needed.
2) Purchase spray can of "Brake Clean" several types available & all work
well.
3) Be sure you have reliable jacks & axle stands, this is an important
safety issue & is the single most important aspect of any reapair - under no
circumstances take any avaoidable risk. I have a couple of low cost trolley
jacks of Taiwanese origin which I use together to lift front or rear, then
lower onto axle stands. Never trust any jack & do not put yourself in "at
risk position" until the vehicle is demonstrably stable on axle stands with
any wheels on ground properly chocked. Remember we often have to work on
uneven or sloping ground & the handbrake will be off so ensure the vehicle
can't move.
4) Dismantling the caliper assembly from wheel hub is straightforward but
will require ring/open end spanners of correct size, a low cost set of
spanners is OK.
5) Note carefully how the pads are fitted into the calipers as you
dismantle, there may be special shims, not where & how these are fitted.
Take a pic if digital camera available otherwise make quick drawing, its
easy to forget the detail if you get distracted or have to go do something
else.
6) Now the key point, you have to force the caliper pistons back into the
caliper body in order to accomodate the increased thickness of the new pads.
How this is done varies from vehicle to vehicle but on Hondas the pistons
are wound in, (clockwise in from memory) but this you can establish for sure
on the job. Before you do this & best before caliper dismantling, use the
spray cleaner generously to clean the whole assembly. Repeat until all items
are clean & don't breath the spay.
The pistons are not easy to grip & turn, but I found a regular pair of
"Plumbers multi-grips" laying in my toolbox, adjusted to accept the piston
diameter, did the job just fine, a few degrees at a time. Be careful not to
destroy the seal boot around piston base. Prior to this you may need to
clean grime from piston walls which may not clean up with the spray alone,
use any convenient product; steel wool, nylon abrasive cloth, fine
carborundum paper etc.
I used a 6 inch steel rule to measure my progress & to ensure I did not
overwind the pistons, fairly simple & staraightforward.
Note that this may cause fluid loss from brake fluid reservoir, just place
rags around to mop up.
6) Before reassembly you will need to decide whether your discs require
re-machining. It's difficult to advise how you can decide this but if the
discs are badly grooved or enevenly worn or your brakes exhibited vibration
prior to repair then machining is desirable. A repair shop will rotate the
discs on car against a deflection indicating gauge to check for warping &
judge the surface by eye relying on experience.
I was able to have a mobile machinist visit the house & machine the discs in
the back of the van at quite modest cost so if this service is available I
would nachine the disca anyway just to be sure.
7) Reassemble, be sure to tighten all studs muts etc to the approv torque
needed to dismantle.
8) Optional: bleed the brakes thoroughly until you see clean bubble free
fluid. Be sure to use new brake fluid to manufacturers spec.
9) Brakes should self adjust but vigorous use in road test may be needed to
accomplish this.
Hope this is hekpful & I have all the important stuff - good luck.

Pete

"Chris Driscoll" <ack@sio.midco.net> wrote in message
news:vrj3d91s5gi3c6@corp.supernews.com...
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
replace
> brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job a bit
easier?
>
> I still plan on taking it somewhere to get an estimate and probably get
the work
> done there as well, but I may ask them if I can watch the mechanic do the
job.
>
> I'm not really sure what tools are required or anything like that.. I'd
just
> like to be able to do this on my own in the future and just looking for
some
> advice here .
>
> Thanks,
> Chris

Peter O

Chris,

I have just done this on my 91 Prelude & these are the key points:
1) Purchase new pads generics from reputable supplier are usually OK Honda
priginals not needed.
2) Purchase spray can of "Brake Clean" several types available & all work
well.
3) Be sure you have reliable jacks & axle stands, this is an important
safety issue & is the single most important aspect of any reapair - under no
circumstances take any avaoidable risk. I have a couple of low cost trolley
jacks of Taiwanese origin which I use together to lift front or rear, then
lower onto axle stands. Never trust any jack & do not put yourself in "at
risk position" until the vehicle is demonstrably stable on axle stands with
any wheels on ground properly chocked. Remember we often have to work on
uneven or sloping ground & the handbrake will be off so ensure the vehicle
can't move.
4) Dismantling the caliper assembly from wheel hub is straightforward but
will require ring/open end spanners of correct size, a low cost set of
spanners is OK.
5) Note carefully how the pads are fitted into the calipers as you
dismantle, there may be special shims, not where & how these are fitted.
Take a pic if digital camera available otherwise make quick drawing, its
easy to forget the detail if you get distracted or have to go do something
else.
6) Now the key point, you have to force the caliper pistons back into the
caliper body in order to accomodate the increased thickness of the new pads.
How this is done varies from vehicle to vehicle but on Hondas the pistons
are wound in, (clockwise in from memory) but this you can establish for sure
on the job. Before you do this & best before caliper dismantling, use the
spray cleaner generously to clean the whole assembly. Repeat until all items
are clean & don't breath the spay.
The pistons are not easy to grip & turn, but I found a regular pair of
"Plumbers multi-grips" laying in my toolbox, adjusted to accept the piston
diameter, did the job just fine, a few degrees at a time. Be careful not to
destroy the seal boot around piston base. Prior to this you may need to
clean grime from piston walls which may not clean up with the spray alone,
use any convenient product; steel wool, nylon abrasive cloth, fine
carborundum paper etc.
I used a 6 inch steel rule to measure my progress & to ensure I did not
overwind the pistons, fairly simple & staraightforward.
Note that this may cause fluid loss from brake fluid reservoir, just place
rags around to mop up.
6) Before reassembly you will need to decide whether your discs require
re-machining. It's difficult to advise how you can decide this but if the
discs are badly grooved or enevenly worn or your brakes exhibited vibration
prior to repair then machining is desirable. A repair shop will rotate the
discs on car against a deflection indicating gauge to check for warping &
judge the surface by eye relying on experience.
I was able to have a mobile machinist visit the house & machine the discs in
the back of the van at quite modest cost so if this service is available I
would nachine the disca anyway just to be sure.
7) Reassemble, be sure to tighten all studs muts etc to the approv torque
needed to dismantle.
8) Optional: bleed the brakes thoroughly until you see clean bubble free
fluid. Be sure to use new brake fluid to manufacturers spec.
9) Brakes should self adjust but vigorous use in road test may be needed to
accomplish this.
Hope this is hekpful & I have all the important stuff - good luck.

Pete

"Chris Driscoll" <ack@sio.midco.net> wrote in message
news:vrj3d91s5gi3c6@corp.supernews.com...
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
replace
> brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job a bit
easier?
>
> I still plan on taking it somewhere to get an estimate and probably get
the work
> done there as well, but I may ask them if I can watch the mechanic do the
job.
>
> I'm not really sure what tools are required or anything like that.. I'd
just
> like to be able to do this on my own in the future and just looking for
some
> advice here .
>
> Thanks,
> Chris

Peter O

Chris,

I have just done this on my 91 Prelude & these are the key points:
1) Purchase new pads generics from reputable supplier are usually OK Honda
priginals not needed.
2) Purchase spray can of "Brake Clean" several types available & all work
well.
3) Be sure you have reliable jacks & axle stands, this is an important
safety issue & is the single most important aspect of any reapair - under no
circumstances take any avaoidable risk. I have a couple of low cost trolley
jacks of Taiwanese origin which I use together to lift front or rear, then
lower onto axle stands. Never trust any jack & do not put yourself in "at
risk position" until the vehicle is demonstrably stable on axle stands with
any wheels on ground properly chocked. Remember we often have to work on
uneven or sloping ground & the handbrake will be off so ensure the vehicle
can't move.
4) Dismantling the caliper assembly from wheel hub is straightforward but
will require ring/open end spanners of correct size, a low cost set of
spanners is OK.
5) Note carefully how the pads are fitted into the calipers as you
dismantle, there may be special shims, not where & how these are fitted.
Take a pic if digital camera available otherwise make quick drawing, its
easy to forget the detail if you get distracted or have to go do something
else.
6) Now the key point, you have to force the caliper pistons back into the
caliper body in order to accomodate the increased thickness of the new pads.
How this is done varies from vehicle to vehicle but on Hondas the pistons
are wound in, (clockwise in from memory) but this you can establish for sure
on the job. Before you do this & best before caliper dismantling, use the
spray cleaner generously to clean the whole assembly. Repeat until all items
are clean & don't breath the spay.
The pistons are not easy to grip & turn, but I found a regular pair of
"Plumbers multi-grips" laying in my toolbox, adjusted to accept the piston
diameter, did the job just fine, a few degrees at a time. Be careful not to
destroy the seal boot around piston base. Prior to this you may need to
clean grime from piston walls which may not clean up with the spray alone,
use any convenient product; steel wool, nylon abrasive cloth, fine
carborundum paper etc.
I used a 6 inch steel rule to measure my progress & to ensure I did not
overwind the pistons, fairly simple & staraightforward.
Note that this may cause fluid loss from brake fluid reservoir, just place
rags around to mop up.
6) Before reassembly you will need to decide whether your discs require
re-machining. It's difficult to advise how you can decide this but if the
discs are badly grooved or enevenly worn or your brakes exhibited vibration
prior to repair then machining is desirable. A repair shop will rotate the
discs on car against a deflection indicating gauge to check for warping &
judge the surface by eye relying on experience.
I was able to have a mobile machinist visit the house & machine the discs in
the back of the van at quite modest cost so if this service is available I
would nachine the disca anyway just to be sure.
7) Reassemble, be sure to tighten all studs muts etc to the approv torque
needed to dismantle.
8) Optional: bleed the brakes thoroughly until you see clean bubble free
fluid. Be sure to use new brake fluid to manufacturers spec.
9) Brakes should self adjust but vigorous use in road test may be needed to
accomplish this.
Hope this is hekpful & I have all the important stuff - good luck.

Pete

"Chris Driscoll" <ack@sio.midco.net> wrote in message
news:vrj3d91s5gi3c6@corp.supernews.com...
> It's about that time, and I'm wondering how difficult a job it is to
replace
> brake pads myself. And, if available, a diagram to make the job a bit
easier?
>
> I still plan on taking it somewhere to get an estimate and probably get
the work
> done there as well, but I may ask them if I can watch the mechanic do the
job.
>
> I'm not really sure what tools are required or anything like that.. I'd
just
> like to be able to do this on my own in the future and just looking for
some
> advice here .
>
> Thanks,
> Chris