93 civic loss of power
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Mt2dnUGLs_a452LZnZ2dnUVZ_rSdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
Less to go wrong or wear out. Good.
Follows the KISS principle!
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
news:Mt2dnUGLs_a452LZnZ2dnUVZ_rSdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
Less to go wrong or wear out. Good.
Follows the KISS principle!
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:44FE5B25.DCB76BBD@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>>>>> Zephyr wrote:
>>>>>> I had to replace the distributer on my 93 civic 5 years ago when the
>>>>>> bearing went bad. I took the old one out and popped in a new one,
>>>>>> without making carefull note of the allignment. just as you describe
>>>>>> with yours, the car was a pig when I started it up. it also sounded
>>>>>> rough. I loosened the bolts on the distibuter, started the car up and
>>>>>> slowly turned the hole assmebly just slightly listening to what sounded
>>>>>> best. when It sounded good, I tightened the bolts back up. I must
>>>>>> have got it right cause my sister has the car now and it has well over
>>>>>> 240,000 miles now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> my 2 cents
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>
>>>>> The only way to go on high mileage vehicles. Often, a timing light is
>>>>> useless in such situations. Been doing it by "feel/sound" for years...
>>>>>
>>>>> JT
>>>> Mostly, that works well. An exception is when the distributor is failing and
>>>> the timing is erratic - there is no correct setting then, and a timing light
>>>> will show the timing is jumping around. The timing light is a great
>>>> diagnostic help for that, as it points a big red arrow at the distributor.
>>>> Of course, if there is anything seriously wrong with the fuel or valves the
>>>> timing can't be set by ear (and sometimes not even set quite right with a
>>>> light) because the operation is never right.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> A failing distributor should be pretty easy to catch. Of course, I
>>> working with relatively primitive cars (the newest being the '83 Civic).
>>> Valve problems hopefully would be on the noisy side.
>>>
>>> I'm used to the simpler old style vacuum advance distributors where the
>>> timing was set with the vacuum disconnected. One could then use a
>>> timing light to check the rate of advance when applying the gas pedal.
>>> Easy task on an old V8 where everything is out in the open.
>>>
>>> On my '83 Civic, the long sleep that it endured left the whole
>>> vacuum-electro-mechanical control system in some disarray. For example,
>>> when I first got the car running in May, the spark would advance by
>>> turning the distributor counter clockwise which is the opposite of what
>>> the manual calls for. Later, it would not respond at all and now it
>>> seems to work (somewhat) as it should.
>>>
>>> The vacuum for the advance is tapped of of the carb insulator which is
>>> of course below the butterfly. Since manifold vacuum decreases when the
>>> butterfly(s) are opened, how would this advance timing. The vacuum line
>>> is a "T" with the other line going to "Control Box 1."
>>>
>>> <shudder>
>>>
>>> JT
>>>
>>> (Amazed by those crafty Japanese engineers...)
>> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
>> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
>
>
> Which in turn limits the ability to resolve issues by the consumer.
if anything, it's easier - it either works or it doesn't. agreed, you
can't use your old skill set, but a new skill set is easy enough to
acquire, thanks to the net and the efforts of people like tegger.
> I
> suppose (or hope) that failures are rare with Hondas. Detroit junk
> OTOH, could cause a lot of sleepless nights...
>
> JT
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:44FE5B25.DCB76BBD@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>>>>> Zephyr wrote:
>>>>>> I had to replace the distributer on my 93 civic 5 years ago when the
>>>>>> bearing went bad. I took the old one out and popped in a new one,
>>>>>> without making carefull note of the allignment. just as you describe
>>>>>> with yours, the car was a pig when I started it up. it also sounded
>>>>>> rough. I loosened the bolts on the distibuter, started the car up and
>>>>>> slowly turned the hole assmebly just slightly listening to what sounded
>>>>>> best. when It sounded good, I tightened the bolts back up. I must
>>>>>> have got it right cause my sister has the car now and it has well over
>>>>>> 240,000 miles now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> my 2 cents
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>
>>>>> The only way to go on high mileage vehicles. Often, a timing light is
>>>>> useless in such situations. Been doing it by "feel/sound" for years...
>>>>>
>>>>> JT
>>>> Mostly, that works well. An exception is when the distributor is failing and
>>>> the timing is erratic - there is no correct setting then, and a timing light
>>>> will show the timing is jumping around. The timing light is a great
>>>> diagnostic help for that, as it points a big red arrow at the distributor.
>>>> Of course, if there is anything seriously wrong with the fuel or valves the
>>>> timing can't be set by ear (and sometimes not even set quite right with a
>>>> light) because the operation is never right.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> A failing distributor should be pretty easy to catch. Of course, I
>>> working with relatively primitive cars (the newest being the '83 Civic).
>>> Valve problems hopefully would be on the noisy side.
>>>
>>> I'm used to the simpler old style vacuum advance distributors where the
>>> timing was set with the vacuum disconnected. One could then use a
>>> timing light to check the rate of advance when applying the gas pedal.
>>> Easy task on an old V8 where everything is out in the open.
>>>
>>> On my '83 Civic, the long sleep that it endured left the whole
>>> vacuum-electro-mechanical control system in some disarray. For example,
>>> when I first got the car running in May, the spark would advance by
>>> turning the distributor counter clockwise which is the opposite of what
>>> the manual calls for. Later, it would not respond at all and now it
>>> seems to work (somewhat) as it should.
>>>
>>> The vacuum for the advance is tapped of of the carb insulator which is
>>> of course below the butterfly. Since manifold vacuum decreases when the
>>> butterfly(s) are opened, how would this advance timing. The vacuum line
>>> is a "T" with the other line going to "Control Box 1."
>>>
>>> <shudder>
>>>
>>> JT
>>>
>>> (Amazed by those crafty Japanese engineers...)
>> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
>> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
>
>
> Which in turn limits the ability to resolve issues by the consumer.
if anything, it's easier - it either works or it doesn't. agreed, you
can't use your old skill set, but a new skill set is easy enough to
acquire, thanks to the net and the efforts of people like tegger.
> I
> suppose (or hope) that failures are rare with Hondas. Detroit junk
> OTOH, could cause a lot of sleepless nights...
>
> JT
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:44FE5B25.DCB76BBD@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>>>>> Zephyr wrote:
>>>>>> I had to replace the distributer on my 93 civic 5 years ago when the
>>>>>> bearing went bad. I took the old one out and popped in a new one,
>>>>>> without making carefull note of the allignment. just as you describe
>>>>>> with yours, the car was a pig when I started it up. it also sounded
>>>>>> rough. I loosened the bolts on the distibuter, started the car up and
>>>>>> slowly turned the hole assmebly just slightly listening to what sounded
>>>>>> best. when It sounded good, I tightened the bolts back up. I must
>>>>>> have got it right cause my sister has the car now and it has well over
>>>>>> 240,000 miles now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> my 2 cents
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>
>>>>> The only way to go on high mileage vehicles. Often, a timing light is
>>>>> useless in such situations. Been doing it by "feel/sound" for years...
>>>>>
>>>>> JT
>>>> Mostly, that works well. An exception is when the distributor is failing and
>>>> the timing is erratic - there is no correct setting then, and a timing light
>>>> will show the timing is jumping around. The timing light is a great
>>>> diagnostic help for that, as it points a big red arrow at the distributor.
>>>> Of course, if there is anything seriously wrong with the fuel or valves the
>>>> timing can't be set by ear (and sometimes not even set quite right with a
>>>> light) because the operation is never right.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> A failing distributor should be pretty easy to catch. Of course, I
>>> working with relatively primitive cars (the newest being the '83 Civic).
>>> Valve problems hopefully would be on the noisy side.
>>>
>>> I'm used to the simpler old style vacuum advance distributors where the
>>> timing was set with the vacuum disconnected. One could then use a
>>> timing light to check the rate of advance when applying the gas pedal.
>>> Easy task on an old V8 where everything is out in the open.
>>>
>>> On my '83 Civic, the long sleep that it endured left the whole
>>> vacuum-electro-mechanical control system in some disarray. For example,
>>> when I first got the car running in May, the spark would advance by
>>> turning the distributor counter clockwise which is the opposite of what
>>> the manual calls for. Later, it would not respond at all and now it
>>> seems to work (somewhat) as it should.
>>>
>>> The vacuum for the advance is tapped of of the carb insulator which is
>>> of course below the butterfly. Since manifold vacuum decreases when the
>>> butterfly(s) are opened, how would this advance timing. The vacuum line
>>> is a "T" with the other line going to "Control Box 1."
>>>
>>> <shudder>
>>>
>>> JT
>>>
>>> (Amazed by those crafty Japanese engineers...)
>> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
>> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
>
>
> Which in turn limits the ability to resolve issues by the consumer.
if anything, it's easier - it either works or it doesn't. agreed, you
can't use your old skill set, but a new skill set is easy enough to
acquire, thanks to the net and the efforts of people like tegger.
> I
> suppose (or hope) that failures are rare with Hondas. Detroit junk
> OTOH, could cause a lot of sleepless nights...
>
> JT
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:44FE5B25.DCB76BBD@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>>>>> Zephyr wrote:
>>>>>> I had to replace the distributer on my 93 civic 5 years ago when the
>>>>>> bearing went bad. I took the old one out and popped in a new one,
>>>>>> without making carefull note of the allignment. just as you describe
>>>>>> with yours, the car was a pig when I started it up. it also sounded
>>>>>> rough. I loosened the bolts on the distibuter, started the car up and
>>>>>> slowly turned the hole assmebly just slightly listening to what sounded
>>>>>> best. when It sounded good, I tightened the bolts back up. I must
>>>>>> have got it right cause my sister has the car now and it has well over
>>>>>> 240,000 miles now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> my 2 cents
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>
>>>>> The only way to go on high mileage vehicles. Often, a timing light is
>>>>> useless in such situations. Been doing it by "feel/sound" for years...
>>>>>
>>>>> JT
>>>> Mostly, that works well. An exception is when the distributor is failing and
>>>> the timing is erratic - there is no correct setting then, and a timing light
>>>> will show the timing is jumping around. The timing light is a great
>>>> diagnostic help for that, as it points a big red arrow at the distributor.
>>>> Of course, if there is anything seriously wrong with the fuel or valves the
>>>> timing can't be set by ear (and sometimes not even set quite right with a
>>>> light) because the operation is never right.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> A failing distributor should be pretty easy to catch. Of course, I
>>> working with relatively primitive cars (the newest being the '83 Civic).
>>> Valve problems hopefully would be on the noisy side.
>>>
>>> I'm used to the simpler old style vacuum advance distributors where the
>>> timing was set with the vacuum disconnected. One could then use a
>>> timing light to check the rate of advance when applying the gas pedal.
>>> Easy task on an old V8 where everything is out in the open.
>>>
>>> On my '83 Civic, the long sleep that it endured left the whole
>>> vacuum-electro-mechanical control system in some disarray. For example,
>>> when I first got the car running in May, the spark would advance by
>>> turning the distributor counter clockwise which is the opposite of what
>>> the manual calls for. Later, it would not respond at all and now it
>>> seems to work (somewhat) as it should.
>>>
>>> The vacuum for the advance is tapped of of the carb insulator which is
>>> of course below the butterfly. Since manifold vacuum decreases when the
>>> butterfly(s) are opened, how would this advance timing. The vacuum line
>>> is a "T" with the other line going to "Control Box 1."
>>>
>>> <shudder>
>>>
>>> JT
>>>
>>> (Amazed by those crafty Japanese engineers...)
>> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
>> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
>
>
> Which in turn limits the ability to resolve issues by the consumer.
if anything, it's easier - it either works or it doesn't. agreed, you
can't use your old skill set, but a new skill set is easy enough to
acquire, thanks to the net and the efforts of people like tegger.
> I
> suppose (or hope) that failures are rare with Hondas. Detroit junk
> OTOH, could cause a lot of sleepless nights...
>
> JT
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:44FE5B25.DCB76BBD@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>>>>> Zephyr wrote:
>>>>>> I had to replace the distributer on my 93 civic 5 years ago when the
>>>>>> bearing went bad. I took the old one out and popped in a new one,
>>>>>> without making carefull note of the allignment. just as you describe
>>>>>> with yours, the car was a pig when I started it up. it also sounded
>>>>>> rough. I loosened the bolts on the distibuter, started the car up and
>>>>>> slowly turned the hole assmebly just slightly listening to what sounded
>>>>>> best. when It sounded good, I tightened the bolts back up. I must
>>>>>> have got it right cause my sister has the car now and it has well over
>>>>>> 240,000 miles now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> my 2 cents
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>
>>>>> The only way to go on high mileage vehicles. Often, a timing light is
>>>>> useless in such situations. Been doing it by "feel/sound" for years...
>>>>>
>>>>> JT
>>>> Mostly, that works well. An exception is when the distributor is failing and
>>>> the timing is erratic - there is no correct setting then, and a timing light
>>>> will show the timing is jumping around. The timing light is a great
>>>> diagnostic help for that, as it points a big red arrow at the distributor.
>>>> Of course, if there is anything seriously wrong with the fuel or valves the
>>>> timing can't be set by ear (and sometimes not even set quite right with a
>>>> light) because the operation is never right.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> A failing distributor should be pretty easy to catch. Of course, I
>>> working with relatively primitive cars (the newest being the '83 Civic).
>>> Valve problems hopefully would be on the noisy side.
>>>
>>> I'm used to the simpler old style vacuum advance distributors where the
>>> timing was set with the vacuum disconnected. One could then use a
>>> timing light to check the rate of advance when applying the gas pedal.
>>> Easy task on an old V8 where everything is out in the open.
>>>
>>> On my '83 Civic, the long sleep that it endured left the whole
>>> vacuum-electro-mechanical control system in some disarray. For example,
>>> when I first got the car running in May, the spark would advance by
>>> turning the distributor counter clockwise which is the opposite of what
>>> the manual calls for. Later, it would not respond at all and now it
>>> seems to work (somewhat) as it should.
>>>
>>> The vacuum for the advance is tapped of of the carb insulator which is
>>> of course below the butterfly. Since manifold vacuum decreases when the
>>> butterfly(s) are opened, how would this advance timing. The vacuum line
>>> is a "T" with the other line going to "Control Box 1."
>>>
>>> <shudder>
>>>
>>> JT
>>>
>>> (Amazed by those crafty Japanese engineers...)
>> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
>> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
>
>
> Which in turn limits the ability to resolve issues by the consumer.
if anything, it's easier - it either works or it doesn't. agreed, you
can't use your old skill set, but a new skill set is easy enough to
acquire, thanks to the net and the efforts of people like tegger.
> I
> suppose (or hope) that failures are rare with Hondas. Detroit junk
> OTOH, could cause a lot of sleepless nights...
>
> JT
>
> jim beam wrote:
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:44FE5B25.DCB76BBD@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>>>>> Zephyr wrote:
>>>>>> I had to replace the distributer on my 93 civic 5 years ago when the
>>>>>> bearing went bad. I took the old one out and popped in a new one,
>>>>>> without making carefull note of the allignment. just as you describe
>>>>>> with yours, the car was a pig when I started it up. it also sounded
>>>>>> rough. I loosened the bolts on the distibuter, started the car up and
>>>>>> slowly turned the hole assmebly just slightly listening to what sounded
>>>>>> best. when It sounded good, I tightened the bolts back up. I must
>>>>>> have got it right cause my sister has the car now and it has well over
>>>>>> 240,000 miles now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> my 2 cents
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>
>>>>> The only way to go on high mileage vehicles. Often, a timing light is
>>>>> useless in such situations. Been doing it by "feel/sound" for years...
>>>>>
>>>>> JT
>>>> Mostly, that works well. An exception is when the distributor is failing and
>>>> the timing is erratic - there is no correct setting then, and a timing light
>>>> will show the timing is jumping around. The timing light is a great
>>>> diagnostic help for that, as it points a big red arrow at the distributor.
>>>> Of course, if there is anything seriously wrong with the fuel or valves the
>>>> timing can't be set by ear (and sometimes not even set quite right with a
>>>> light) because the operation is never right.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>
>>> A failing distributor should be pretty easy to catch. Of course, I
>>> working with relatively primitive cars (the newest being the '83 Civic).
>>> Valve problems hopefully would be on the noisy side.
>>>
>>> I'm used to the simpler old style vacuum advance distributors where the
>>> timing was set with the vacuum disconnected. One could then use a
>>> timing light to check the rate of advance when applying the gas pedal.
>>> Easy task on an old V8 where everything is out in the open.
>>>
>>> On my '83 Civic, the long sleep that it endured left the whole
>>> vacuum-electro-mechanical control system in some disarray. For example,
>>> when I first got the car running in May, the spark would advance by
>>> turning the distributor counter clockwise which is the opposite of what
>>> the manual calls for. Later, it would not respond at all and now it
>>> seems to work (somewhat) as it should.
>>>
>>> The vacuum for the advance is tapped of of the carb insulator which is
>>> of course below the butterfly. Since manifold vacuum decreases when the
>>> butterfly(s) are opened, how would this advance timing. The vacuum line
>>> is a "T" with the other line going to "Control Box 1."
>>>
>>> <shudder>
>>>
>>> JT
>>>
>>> (Amazed by those crafty Japanese engineers...)
>> the 93 civic has neither vacuum advance not centrifugal weights - it's
>> all electronically controlled with timing maps stored in the ecu.
>
>
> Which in turn limits the ability to resolve issues by the consumer.
if anything, it's easier - it either works or it doesn't. agreed, you
can't use your old skill set, but a new skill set is easy enough to
acquire, thanks to the net and the efforts of people like tegger.
> I
> suppose (or hope) that failures are rare with Hondas. Detroit junk
> OTOH, could cause a lot of sleepless nights...
>
> JT
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
>
> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
> service check connector, etc.?
No,
I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for when it sounded
best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it was not set
correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in the car 2
weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
>
> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
> service check connector, etc.?
No,
I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for when it sounded
best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it was not set
correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in the car 2
weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
>
> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
> service check connector, etc.?
No,
I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for when it sounded
best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it was not set
correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in the car 2
weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
"Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote
E
>> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
>> service check connector, etc.?
>
> No,
>
> I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for
> when it sounded
> best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it
> was not set
> correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in
> the car 2
> weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Interesting. When the service check connector is not
shorted, the engine computer is sending a signal that will
tend to counteract whatever a person does with the
distributor housing, so the timing won't be set right.
Dunno what happened in your case. I suppose there are
"windows of opportunity" that make the shorting of the
service check connector irrelevant.
E
>> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
>> service check connector, etc.?
>
> No,
>
> I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for
> when it sounded
> best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it
> was not set
> correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in
> the car 2
> weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Interesting. When the service check connector is not
shorted, the engine computer is sending a signal that will
tend to counteract whatever a person does with the
distributor housing, so the timing won't be set right.
Dunno what happened in your case. I suppose there are
"windows of opportunity" that make the shorting of the
service check connector irrelevant.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
"Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote
E
>> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
>> service check connector, etc.?
>
> No,
>
> I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for
> when it sounded
> best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it
> was not set
> correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in
> the car 2
> weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Interesting. When the service check connector is not
shorted, the engine computer is sending a signal that will
tend to counteract whatever a person does with the
distributor housing, so the timing won't be set right.
Dunno what happened in your case. I suppose there are
"windows of opportunity" that make the shorting of the
service check connector irrelevant.
E
>> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
>> service check connector, etc.?
>
> No,
>
> I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for
> when it sounded
> best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it
> was not set
> correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in
> the car 2
> weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Interesting. When the service check connector is not
shorted, the engine computer is sending a signal that will
tend to counteract whatever a person does with the
distributor housing, so the timing won't be set right.
Dunno what happened in your case. I suppose there are
"windows of opportunity" that make the shorting of the
service check connector irrelevant.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
"Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote
E
>> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
>> service check connector, etc.?
>
> No,
>
> I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for
> when it sounded
> best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it
> was not set
> correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in
> the car 2
> weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Interesting. When the service check connector is not
shorted, the engine computer is sending a signal that will
tend to counteract whatever a person does with the
distributor housing, so the timing won't be set right.
Dunno what happened in your case. I suppose there are
"windows of opportunity" that make the shorting of the
service check connector irrelevant.
E
>> Did you use the manual's directions and short out the
>> service check connector, etc.?
>
> No,
>
> I just popped in the new distributer, and listened for
> when it sounded
> best. I actually drove prob 100 miles on the car when it
> was not set
> correctly, and I knew something was not right. I rode in
> the car 2
> weeks ago and its still purring just fine.
Interesting. When the service check connector is not
shorted, the engine computer is sending a signal that will
tend to counteract whatever a person does with the
distributor housing, so the timing won't be set right.
Dunno what happened in your case. I suppose there are
"windows of opportunity" that make the shorting of the
service check connector irrelevant.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
Brandon Scarbrough wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for input!!
>
> I oreder the sparkplug wires from http://www.hondapartsdeals.com I will
> have them today. I purchaced platnum plugs, but I read on here those
> might not be the best idea. Unfortunatly, in my excitment, I put the
> plugs in all ready, so it looks like I will go buy the recomended plugs
> now.
Don't decide until you try them... I've been running Bosch Platinum 2's in my
'87 Accord for close to a year now, and they're still working great.
No point shelling out for another set of new plugs right away, if you don't need
them.
> I bought the timming light, I looked around in the car, and frankly
> timming it properly seems a little daunting. It was getting late last
> night so I put the car away, iiwll mess with it when I get home from
> work this evening.
Adjusting timing is easy: loosen the bolts on the distributor and rotate it
until it's right. READING the timing is a little tricky the first time, but
it's easy once you've done it.
> When I replaced the fuel filter, that supid bolt that hold the fuel
> filter clam on, that is right next to the fire wall, I replaced that
> with a zip tie so next time I can get it off in under an hour. It
> didn't seem to be a bolt that held any substantial force, it was just
> placed in a very ackward position. Do you all think the zip tie will
> be ok?? I still have the bolt if I need to put it back in, but wow
> what a needless pain to get that thing off.
A zip tie may be affected and weakened by the engine heat. A regular hose clamp
can replace the stock one.
> Thanks to everyone for input!!
>
> I oreder the sparkplug wires from http://www.hondapartsdeals.com I will
> have them today. I purchaced platnum plugs, but I read on here those
> might not be the best idea. Unfortunatly, in my excitment, I put the
> plugs in all ready, so it looks like I will go buy the recomended plugs
> now.
Don't decide until you try them... I've been running Bosch Platinum 2's in my
'87 Accord for close to a year now, and they're still working great.
No point shelling out for another set of new plugs right away, if you don't need
them.
> I bought the timming light, I looked around in the car, and frankly
> timming it properly seems a little daunting. It was getting late last
> night so I put the car away, iiwll mess with it when I get home from
> work this evening.
Adjusting timing is easy: loosen the bolts on the distributor and rotate it
until it's right. READING the timing is a little tricky the first time, but
it's easy once you've done it.
> When I replaced the fuel filter, that supid bolt that hold the fuel
> filter clam on, that is right next to the fire wall, I replaced that
> with a zip tie so next time I can get it off in under an hour. It
> didn't seem to be a bolt that held any substantial force, it was just
> placed in a very ackward position. Do you all think the zip tie will
> be ok?? I still have the bolt if I need to put it back in, but wow
> what a needless pain to get that thing off.
A zip tie may be affected and weakened by the engine heat. A regular hose clamp
can replace the stock one.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
Brandon Scarbrough wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for input!!
>
> I oreder the sparkplug wires from http://www.hondapartsdeals.com I will
> have them today. I purchaced platnum plugs, but I read on here those
> might not be the best idea. Unfortunatly, in my excitment, I put the
> plugs in all ready, so it looks like I will go buy the recomended plugs
> now.
Don't decide until you try them... I've been running Bosch Platinum 2's in my
'87 Accord for close to a year now, and they're still working great.
No point shelling out for another set of new plugs right away, if you don't need
them.
> I bought the timming light, I looked around in the car, and frankly
> timming it properly seems a little daunting. It was getting late last
> night so I put the car away, iiwll mess with it when I get home from
> work this evening.
Adjusting timing is easy: loosen the bolts on the distributor and rotate it
until it's right. READING the timing is a little tricky the first time, but
it's easy once you've done it.
> When I replaced the fuel filter, that supid bolt that hold the fuel
> filter clam on, that is right next to the fire wall, I replaced that
> with a zip tie so next time I can get it off in under an hour. It
> didn't seem to be a bolt that held any substantial force, it was just
> placed in a very ackward position. Do you all think the zip tie will
> be ok?? I still have the bolt if I need to put it back in, but wow
> what a needless pain to get that thing off.
A zip tie may be affected and weakened by the engine heat. A regular hose clamp
can replace the stock one.
> Thanks to everyone for input!!
>
> I oreder the sparkplug wires from http://www.hondapartsdeals.com I will
> have them today. I purchaced platnum plugs, but I read on here those
> might not be the best idea. Unfortunatly, in my excitment, I put the
> plugs in all ready, so it looks like I will go buy the recomended plugs
> now.
Don't decide until you try them... I've been running Bosch Platinum 2's in my
'87 Accord for close to a year now, and they're still working great.
No point shelling out for another set of new plugs right away, if you don't need
them.
> I bought the timming light, I looked around in the car, and frankly
> timming it properly seems a little daunting. It was getting late last
> night so I put the car away, iiwll mess with it when I get home from
> work this evening.
Adjusting timing is easy: loosen the bolts on the distributor and rotate it
until it's right. READING the timing is a little tricky the first time, but
it's easy once you've done it.
> When I replaced the fuel filter, that supid bolt that hold the fuel
> filter clam on, that is right next to the fire wall, I replaced that
> with a zip tie so next time I can get it off in under an hour. It
> didn't seem to be a bolt that held any substantial force, it was just
> placed in a very ackward position. Do you all think the zip tie will
> be ok?? I still have the bolt if I need to put it back in, but wow
> what a needless pain to get that thing off.
A zip tie may be affected and weakened by the engine heat. A regular hose clamp
can replace the stock one.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 civic loss of power
Brandon Scarbrough wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for input!!
>
> I oreder the sparkplug wires from http://www.hondapartsdeals.com I will
> have them today. I purchaced platnum plugs, but I read on here those
> might not be the best idea. Unfortunatly, in my excitment, I put the
> plugs in all ready, so it looks like I will go buy the recomended plugs
> now.
Don't decide until you try them... I've been running Bosch Platinum 2's in my
'87 Accord for close to a year now, and they're still working great.
No point shelling out for another set of new plugs right away, if you don't need
them.
> I bought the timming light, I looked around in the car, and frankly
> timming it properly seems a little daunting. It was getting late last
> night so I put the car away, iiwll mess with it when I get home from
> work this evening.
Adjusting timing is easy: loosen the bolts on the distributor and rotate it
until it's right. READING the timing is a little tricky the first time, but
it's easy once you've done it.
> When I replaced the fuel filter, that supid bolt that hold the fuel
> filter clam on, that is right next to the fire wall, I replaced that
> with a zip tie so next time I can get it off in under an hour. It
> didn't seem to be a bolt that held any substantial force, it was just
> placed in a very ackward position. Do you all think the zip tie will
> be ok?? I still have the bolt if I need to put it back in, but wow
> what a needless pain to get that thing off.
A zip tie may be affected and weakened by the engine heat. A regular hose clamp
can replace the stock one.
> Thanks to everyone for input!!
>
> I oreder the sparkplug wires from http://www.hondapartsdeals.com I will
> have them today. I purchaced platnum plugs, but I read on here those
> might not be the best idea. Unfortunatly, in my excitment, I put the
> plugs in all ready, so it looks like I will go buy the recomended plugs
> now.
Don't decide until you try them... I've been running Bosch Platinum 2's in my
'87 Accord for close to a year now, and they're still working great.
No point shelling out for another set of new plugs right away, if you don't need
them.
> I bought the timming light, I looked around in the car, and frankly
> timming it properly seems a little daunting. It was getting late last
> night so I put the car away, iiwll mess with it when I get home from
> work this evening.
Adjusting timing is easy: loosen the bolts on the distributor and rotate it
until it's right. READING the timing is a little tricky the first time, but
it's easy once you've done it.
> When I replaced the fuel filter, that supid bolt that hold the fuel
> filter clam on, that is right next to the fire wall, I replaced that
> with a zip tie so next time I can get it off in under an hour. It
> didn't seem to be a bolt that held any substantial force, it was just
> placed in a very ackward position. Do you all think the zip tie will
> be ok?? I still have the bolt if I need to put it back in, but wow
> what a needless pain to get that thing off.
A zip tie may be affected and weakened by the engine heat. A regular hose clamp
can replace the stock one.
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