loewent via CarKB.com

unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
bearing failure.

Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
Decided not to push it.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
>> pairs?
>
>Not necessary, no.
>
>However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
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loewent via CarKB.com

unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
bearing failure.

Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
Decided not to push it.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
>> pairs?
>
>Not necessary, no.
>
>However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

jim beam

loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
> bearing failure.

not likely unless the caliper was near locked. you can race hondas with
the disks glowing and the bearings seem to do just fine.

>
> Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
> Decided not to push it.
>
> t
>
> Tegger wrote:
>>> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
>>> pairs?
>> Not necessary, no.
>>
>> However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
>>
>

jim beam

loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
> bearing failure.

not likely unless the caliper was near locked. you can race hondas with
the disks glowing and the bearings seem to do just fine.

>
> Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
> Decided not to push it.
>
> t
>
> Tegger wrote:
>>> Perhaps stupid question.... Should front wheel bearings be done in
>>> pairs?
>> Not necessary, no.
>>
>> However, if one is going, the other will be a year or three behind.
>>
>

Tegger

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:776426e1cedc2@uwe:

> unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
> bearing failure.


I think that's rather unlikely.

The bearing failures I've seen are caused by corrosion and impact.

If the heat from the caliper were to cook the bearing's grease enough to
cause bearing damage, I can't see that being evident for many tens of
thousands of miles. Before you heard noise, the surface of the ***** would
have to begin breaking up, which doesn't happen in a few weeks.


>
> Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
> Decided not to push it.



Take it. It's a good deal, considering they are almost certainly blameless
for the bearing.

Get the old bearing back and take pictures if you can. I'd like to see
them. I'll bet you'll find rust on the races.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:776426e1cedc2@uwe:

> unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
> bearing failure.


I think that's rather unlikely.

The bearing failures I've seen are caused by corrosion and impact.

If the heat from the caliper were to cook the bearing's grease enough to
cause bearing damage, I can't see that being evident for many tens of
thousands of miles. Before you heard noise, the surface of the ***** would
have to begin breaking up, which doesn't happen in a few weeks.


>
> Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
> Decided not to push it.



Take it. It's a good deal, considering they are almost certainly blameless
for the bearing.

Get the old bearing back and take pictures if you can. I'd like to see
them. I'll bet you'll find rust on the races.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

loewent via CarKB.com

Busted the lower bolt on the passenger side rear upper arm.

.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
>> bearing failure.
>
>I think that's rather unlikely.
>
>The bearing failures I've seen are caused by corrosion and impact.
>
>If the heat from the caliper were to cook the bearing's grease enough to
>cause bearing damage, I can't see that being evident for many tens of
>thousands of miles. Before you heard noise, the surface of the ***** would
>have to begin breaking up, which doesn't happen in a few weeks.
>
>> Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
>> Decided not to push it.
>
>Take it. It's a good deal, considering they are almost certainly blameless
>for the bearing.
>
>Get the old bearing back and take pictures if you can. I'd like to see
>them. I'll bet you'll find rust on the races.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

loewent via CarKB.com

Busted the lower bolt on the passenger side rear upper arm.

.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> unless my theory is correct and the brake caliper overheating caused the
>> bearing failure.
>
>I think that's rather unlikely.
>
>The bearing failures I've seen are caused by corrosion and impact.
>
>If the heat from the caliper were to cook the bearing's grease enough to
>cause bearing damage, I can't see that being evident for many tens of
>thousands of miles. Before you heard noise, the surface of the ***** would
>have to begin breaking up, which doesn't happen in a few weeks.
>
>> Oh yeah, they gave me a 35% discount on the bearing when I brought it up.
>> Decided not to push it.
>
>Take it. It's a good deal, considering they are almost certainly blameless
>for the bearing.
>
>Get the old bearing back and take pictures if you can. I'd like to see
>them. I'll bet you'll find rust on the races.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

Tegger

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:77727ed8eda56@uwe:

> Busted the lower bolt on the passenger side rear upper arm.



You mean the outer bolt, the one that goes into the top of the trailing
arm?

Did the head break off?

Did you use an electric impact wrench (rentable)?

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:77727ed8eda56@uwe:

> Busted the lower bolt on the passenger side rear upper arm.



You mean the outer bolt, the one that goes into the top of the trailing
arm?

Did the head break off?

Did you use an electric impact wrench (rentable)?

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

loewent via CarKB.com

Its a #10 x 62 bolt as per Majestic Honda microfiche (98 civic LX 5MT, Rear
lower arm), which I am pretty sure is the one you indicated. Its part number
18 on this page : http://tinyurl.com/youdwa

I was using impact, borrowed my bro-in-laws compressor. Tried 2 guns, first
the big beasty he has (650 ft-lb) and then the little one (more bangs per
minute). The bolt was severely seized inside the outer bushing. I had put
some Zep 45 penetrating oil on it several times over the past couple days in
preparation for this job. The driver side was difficult as well, but I broke
through the rust on that one. The passenger side never came close to letting
go. I guess sometimes thats just the way it goes....

On the driver side, the inner bushing fell out of the arm when I removed the
inner bolts. Obviously in need of replacement. The outer bushing was not in
terrible shape, but there was some play.

On the passenger side, the inner bushing was worn, and I was able to get it
out with a little effort. The outer bushing I have no idea as I destroyed it
trying to get the freakin bolt out.

In fact, the bolt was so seized in the bushing sleeve (made of aluminum of
all things) that it started to push the mounting points apart and bend the
trailing arm. Put a stop to that buy using a C-Clamp to prevent them from
ing. Had to be careful though, as I did not want to ruin the threads
in the welded nut. After I got it out, I whacked the mounting points back in
line with a hammer. Then used the bolt I didn't snap to ensure it was lined
up.

After an hour of impact, I used the breaker bar on the stubborn bolt and the
head snapped off. I used and angle grinder to get the rest out.

Off to the dealer for a new bolt. I'll probably get 2, the bolt is machined
with ridges on it to prevent spinning. I'm thinking a new bolt on both sides
will help prevent loosening over time as there is no other method being used
to prevent spinning out.

Or should I be using loctite on the welded nut?

By the way, inspection of the front big bushing on the lower arm yielded some
cracking. However, I think these have a ways to go before they will need
replacement. Guess I will find out during the alignment.

Also, I realized I didn't respond to your question a few messages ago about
my suspension inspection (ie the tie rods). I had the car on ramps and was
underneath on a creeper, so to answer your question, yes the wheels were at
ride height, since all 4 tires were on the ground.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Busted the lower bolt on the passenger side rear upper arm.
>
>You mean the outer bolt, the one that goes into the top of the trailing
>arm?
>
>Did the head break off?
>
>Did you use an electric impact wrench (rentable)?
>

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

loewent via CarKB.com

Its a #10 x 62 bolt as per Majestic Honda microfiche (98 civic LX 5MT, Rear
lower arm), which I am pretty sure is the one you indicated. Its part number
18 on this page : http://tinyurl.com/youdwa

I was using impact, borrowed my bro-in-laws compressor. Tried 2 guns, first
the big beasty he has (650 ft-lb) and then the little one (more bangs per
minute). The bolt was severely seized inside the outer bushing. I had put
some Zep 45 penetrating oil on it several times over the past couple days in
preparation for this job. The driver side was difficult as well, but I broke
through the rust on that one. The passenger side never came close to letting
go. I guess sometimes thats just the way it goes....

On the driver side, the inner bushing fell out of the arm when I removed the
inner bolts. Obviously in need of replacement. The outer bushing was not in
terrible shape, but there was some play.

On the passenger side, the inner bushing was worn, and I was able to get it
out with a little effort. The outer bushing I have no idea as I destroyed it
trying to get the freakin bolt out.

In fact, the bolt was so seized in the bushing sleeve (made of aluminum of
all things) that it started to push the mounting points apart and bend the
trailing arm. Put a stop to that buy using a C-Clamp to prevent them from
ing. Had to be careful though, as I did not want to ruin the threads
in the welded nut. After I got it out, I whacked the mounting points back in
line with a hammer. Then used the bolt I didn't snap to ensure it was lined
up.

After an hour of impact, I used the breaker bar on the stubborn bolt and the
head snapped off. I used and angle grinder to get the rest out.

Off to the dealer for a new bolt. I'll probably get 2, the bolt is machined
with ridges on it to prevent spinning. I'm thinking a new bolt on both sides
will help prevent loosening over time as there is no other method being used
to prevent spinning out.

Or should I be using loctite on the welded nut?

By the way, inspection of the front big bushing on the lower arm yielded some
cracking. However, I think these have a ways to go before they will need
replacement. Guess I will find out during the alignment.

Also, I realized I didn't respond to your question a few messages ago about
my suspension inspection (ie the tie rods). I had the car on ramps and was
underneath on a creeper, so to answer your question, yes the wheels were at
ride height, since all 4 tires were on the ground.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Busted the lower bolt on the passenger side rear upper arm.
>
>You mean the outer bolt, the one that goes into the top of the trailing
>arm?
>
>Did the head break off?
>
>Did you use an electric impact wrench (rentable)?
>

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

Tegger

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:777803d5df6e8@uwe:


>
> After an hour of impact, I used the breaker bar on the stubborn bolt
> and the head snapped off. I used and angle grinder to get the rest
> out.



Here's a trick you might want to try next time: /TIGHTEN/ the bolt before
trying to crack it loose.

Another trick: Since you don't care what happens to the bushing rubber,
heat the bolt head and nut to orange with a torch, then let them cool all
the way down. Then try the tighten/loosen thing. This is remarkably
effective.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:777803d5df6e8@uwe:


>
> After an hour of impact, I used the breaker bar on the stubborn bolt
> and the head snapped off. I used and angle grinder to get the rest
> out.



Here's a trick you might want to try next time: /TIGHTEN/ the bolt before
trying to crack it loose.

Another trick: Since you don't care what happens to the bushing rubber,
heat the bolt head and nut to orange with a torch, then let them cool all
the way down. Then try the tighten/loosen thing. This is remarkably
effective.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

loewent via CarKB.com

Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention cuz they
didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt I could get it
hot enough.

Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is because
of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full effect of the
impact.

Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The bolts they
gave me cost $12 each!

Majestic Honda = $0.78.

WTF!! I hate dealers.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> After an hour of impact, I used the breaker bar on the stubborn bolt
>> and the head snapped off. I used and angle grinder to get the rest
>> out.
>
>Here's a trick you might want to try next time: /TIGHTEN/ the bolt before
>trying to crack it loose.
>
>Another trick: Since you don't care what happens to the bushing rubber,
>heat the bolt head and nut to orange with a torch, then let them cool all
>the way down. Then try the tighten/loosen thing. This is remarkably
>effective.
>

--
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