"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:792600324f1de@uwe:

> Went for lunch and this is what I observed:
>
> RPMs = ~1800 when cold.
>
> After driving for 10 minutes, RPMs were around 1800-2200.
>
> I got to my lunch spot, and turned the car off. Then started it
> immediately. RPMs were at 600-700 (normal). Then I turned it off and
> went for lunch.
>
> Coming back to work, the RPMs were back up at around 1500-1800. When
> I got to my parking spot, I popped the hood and fiddled with the
> throttle a bit. By turning the throttle I was able to get the RPMs
> down to 600. So I'm wondering if this is a problem in the throttle
> body?

Maybe the throttle body has varnish built up and is keeping the plate open
more occasionally? A thorough cleaning would correct that.
Have you ohmed the TPS sensor? It could be getting worn at the "closed" end
of the pot.
>
> As far as the coolant, all appears normal, rad is full to the top and
> resevoir is a little below normal. I haven't done any work on the
> cooling system for quite some time, so I doubt that an air pocket
> would develop spontaneously. I'll keep an eye on it.
>
> t
>
> motsco_ wrote:
>>> are my symptoms indicative of a MAP sensor failure?

there are ohms tests for MAP sensors.

>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>I think you've got air in your cooling system. I'd fill the reservoir
>>to MAX and observe where it is each morning. Add more until is stays
>>at MAX each morning.
>>
>>When the coolant temp sensors are high-n-dry, the computer has no idea
>>where to set the timing / mixture.

I had a CTS open on my 94 Integra GS-R.
It's just a thermistor,an ohmmeter will verify it.
Service manuals should list the ohms ranges for the various sensors.


I'd like to note that O2 sensors can get "slow" near the end of their
life,and not set a trouble code,but still affect operation.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:792600324f1de@uwe:

> Went for lunch and this is what I observed:
>
> RPMs = ~1800 when cold.
>
> After driving for 10 minutes, RPMs were around 1800-2200.
>
> I got to my lunch spot, and turned the car off. Then started it
> immediately. RPMs were at 600-700 (normal). Then I turned it off and
> went for lunch.
>
> Coming back to work, the RPMs were back up at around 1500-1800. When
> I got to my parking spot, I popped the hood and fiddled with the
> throttle a bit. By turning the throttle I was able to get the RPMs
> down to 600. So I'm wondering if this is a problem in the throttle
> body?

Maybe the throttle body has varnish built up and is keeping the plate open
more occasionally? A thorough cleaning would correct that.
Have you ohmed the TPS sensor? It could be getting worn at the "closed" end
of the pot.
>
> As far as the coolant, all appears normal, rad is full to the top and
> resevoir is a little below normal. I haven't done any work on the
> cooling system for quite some time, so I doubt that an air pocket
> would develop spontaneously. I'll keep an eye on it.
>
> t
>
> motsco_ wrote:
>>> are my symptoms indicative of a MAP sensor failure?

there are ohms tests for MAP sensors.

>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>I think you've got air in your cooling system. I'd fill the reservoir
>>to MAX and observe where it is each morning. Add more until is stays
>>at MAX each morning.
>>
>>When the coolant temp sensors are high-n-dry, the computer has no idea
>>where to set the timing / mixture.

I had a CTS open on my 94 Integra GS-R.
It's just a thermistor,an ohmmeter will verify it.
Service manuals should list the ohms ranges for the various sensors.


I'd like to note that O2 sensors can get "slow" near the end of their
life,and not set a trouble code,but still affect operation.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

Got some Throttle body cleaner, sprayed the throttle plate and tube. Also
lubed the throttle spring where the cable attaches. Seems to be OK now.

Is there a way to test my O2 sensors to see if they are bad? (or slow as you
put it)

Jim Yanik wrote:
>> Went for lunch and this is what I observed:
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>> down to 600. So I'm wondering if this is a problem in the throttle
>> body?
>
>Maybe the throttle body has varnish built up and is keeping the plate open
>more occasionally? A thorough cleaning would correct that.
>Have you ohmed the TPS sensor? It could be getting worn at the "closed" end
>of the pot.
>
>> As far as the coolant, all appears normal, rad is full to the top and
>> resevoir is a little below normal. I haven't done any work on the
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>
>>>> are my symptoms indicative of a MAP sensor failure?
>
>there are ohms tests for MAP sensors.
>
>>>------------------------------
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>>When the coolant temp sensors are high-n-dry, the computer has no idea
>>>where to set the timing / mixture.
>
>I had a CTS open on my 94 Integra GS-R.
>It's just a thermistor,an ohmmeter will verify it.
>Service manuals should list the ohms ranges for the various sensors.
>
>I'd like to note that O2 sensors can get "slow" near the end of their
>life,and not set a trouble code,but still affect operation.
>

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

Got some Throttle body cleaner, sprayed the throttle plate and tube. Also
lubed the throttle spring where the cable attaches. Seems to be OK now.

Is there a way to test my O2 sensors to see if they are bad? (or slow as you
put it)

Jim Yanik wrote:
>> Went for lunch and this is what I observed:
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>> down to 600. So I'm wondering if this is a problem in the throttle
>> body?
>
>Maybe the throttle body has varnish built up and is keeping the plate open
>more occasionally? A thorough cleaning would correct that.
>Have you ohmed the TPS sensor? It could be getting worn at the "closed" end
>of the pot.
>
>> As far as the coolant, all appears normal, rad is full to the top and
>> resevoir is a little below normal. I haven't done any work on the
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>
>>>> are my symptoms indicative of a MAP sensor failure?
>
>there are ohms tests for MAP sensors.
>
>>>------------------------------
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>>When the coolant temp sensors are high-n-dry, the computer has no idea
>>>where to set the timing / mixture.
>
>I had a CTS open on my 94 Integra GS-R.
>It's just a thermistor,an ohmmeter will verify it.
>Service manuals should list the ohms ranges for the various sensors.
>
>I'd like to note that O2 sensors can get "slow" near the end of their
>life,and not set a trouble code,but still affect operation.
>

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

Tegger wrote:
>> Good day,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> red light, my RPMs stay at around 2500. After a few seconds, or if I
>> pump the gas pedal, the RPMs go down to about 1200-1500.
>
>Have a look at your injectors. Do you have air lines running to each
>injector?

No air lines that I can see.

>
>How clean is your throttle body?

Not. I will clean it up good tonight, I did a basic cleaning to free up the
spring and the throttle plate.

>
>How old is your thermostat?
>

Original. I have a new one, haven't put it in yet.

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

Tegger wrote:
>> Good day,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> red light, my RPMs stay at around 2500. After a few seconds, or if I
>> pump the gas pedal, the RPMs go down to about 1200-1500.
>
>Have a look at your injectors. Do you have air lines running to each
>injector?

No air lines that I can see.

>
>How clean is your throttle body?

Not. I will clean it up good tonight, I did a basic cleaning to free up the
spring and the throttle plate.

>
>How old is your thermostat?
>

Original. I have a new one, haven't put it in yet.

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:793117c858083@uwe:

> Got some Throttle body cleaner, sprayed the throttle plate and tube.
> Also lubed the throttle spring where the cable attaches. Seems to be
> OK now.
>
> Is there a way to test my O2 sensors to see if they are bad? (or slow
> as you put it)

I've read that you can use a oscilloscope to check them.
Never done it myself.


>
> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> Went for lunch and this is what I observed:
>>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>>> down to 600. So I'm wondering if this is a problem in the throttle
>>> body?
>>
>>Maybe the throttle body has varnish built up and is keeping the plate
>>open more occasionally? A thorough cleaning would correct that.
>>Have you ohmed the TPS sensor? It could be getting worn at the
>>"closed" end of the pot.
>>
>>> As far as the coolant, all appears normal, rad is full to the top
>>> and resevoir is a little below normal. I haven't done any work on
>>> the
>>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>>
>>>>> are my symptoms indicative of a MAP sensor failure?
>>
>>there are ohms tests for MAP sensors.
>>
>>>>------------------------------
>>>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>>>When the coolant temp sensors are high-n-dry, the computer has no
>>>>idea where to set the timing / mixture.
>>
>>I had a CTS open on my 94 Integra GS-R.
>>It's just a thermistor,an ohmmeter will verify it.
>>Service manuals should list the ohms ranges for the various sensors.
>>
>>I'd like to note that O2 sensors can get "slow" near the end of their
>>life,and not set a trouble code,but still affect operation.
>>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:793117c858083@uwe:

> Got some Throttle body cleaner, sprayed the throttle plate and tube.
> Also lubed the throttle spring where the cable attaches. Seems to be
> OK now.
>
> Is there a way to test my O2 sensors to see if they are bad? (or slow
> as you put it)

I've read that you can use a oscilloscope to check them.
Never done it myself.


>
> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> Went for lunch and this is what I observed:
>>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>>> down to 600. So I'm wondering if this is a problem in the throttle
>>> body?
>>
>>Maybe the throttle body has varnish built up and is keeping the plate
>>open more occasionally? A thorough cleaning would correct that.
>>Have you ohmed the TPS sensor? It could be getting worn at the
>>"closed" end of the pot.
>>
>>> As far as the coolant, all appears normal, rad is full to the top
>>> and resevoir is a little below normal. I haven't done any work on
>>> the
>>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>>
>>>>> are my symptoms indicative of a MAP sensor failure?
>>
>>there are ohms tests for MAP sensors.
>>
>>>>------------------------------
>>>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>>>When the coolant temp sensors are high-n-dry, the computer has no
>>>>idea where to set the timing / mixture.
>>
>>I had a CTS open on my 94 Integra GS-R.
>>It's just a thermistor,an ohmmeter will verify it.
>>Service manuals should list the ohms ranges for the various sensors.
>>
>>I'd like to note that O2 sensors can get "slow" near the end of their
>>life,and not set a trouble code,but still affect operation.
>>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:79311f0a8adeb@uwe:

> Tegger wrote:
>>> Good day,
>>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>>> red light, my RPMs stay at around 2500. After a few seconds, or if
>>> I pump the gas pedal, the RPMs go down to about 1200-1500.
>>
>>Have a look at your injectors. Do you have air lines running to each
>>injector?
>
> No air lines that I can see.



Then you don't have "that" kind of injectors.


>
>>
>>How clean is your throttle body?
>
> Not. I will clean it up good tonight, I did a basic cleaning to free
> up the spring and the throttle plate.



Make certain that thrpottle body is squeaky clean. There shoyuld be NO
traces of gum or carbon ANYWHERE, especially in the tight sports.

Use a brick or something on the gas pedal to prop the throttle plate
open. Do not spray the cleaner dirtectly into the TB, bt spray it on a
tothbrush and use that to scrub the carbon. Wrap an old T-shirt around a
dry toothbrush and use that to wipe.


>
>>
>>How old is your thermostat?
>>
>
> Original. I have a new one, haven't put it in yet.
>


I hope it's OEM and not aftermarket.

An old thermostat can fool the ECM into thinking the engine is colder
than it actually is. The ECM will then go into "warmup" strategy,
feeding the engine excessive air and fuel, leading to a high idle.

Fix the simple stuff first. Don't tackle hi-falutin' things like the TPS
when the problem is about 99.99% certain to be a lot simpler than that.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:79311f0a8adeb@uwe:

> Tegger wrote:
>>> Good day,
>>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>>> red light, my RPMs stay at around 2500. After a few seconds, or if
>>> I pump the gas pedal, the RPMs go down to about 1200-1500.
>>
>>Have a look at your injectors. Do you have air lines running to each
>>injector?
>
> No air lines that I can see.



Then you don't have "that" kind of injectors.


>
>>
>>How clean is your throttle body?
>
> Not. I will clean it up good tonight, I did a basic cleaning to free
> up the spring and the throttle plate.



Make certain that thrpottle body is squeaky clean. There shoyuld be NO
traces of gum or carbon ANYWHERE, especially in the tight sports.

Use a brick or something on the gas pedal to prop the throttle plate
open. Do not spray the cleaner dirtectly into the TB, bt spray it on a
tothbrush and use that to scrub the carbon. Wrap an old T-shirt around a
dry toothbrush and use that to wipe.


>
>>
>>How old is your thermostat?
>>
>
> Original. I have a new one, haven't put it in yet.
>


I hope it's OEM and not aftermarket.

An old thermostat can fool the ECM into thinking the engine is colder
than it actually is. The ECM will then go into "warmup" strategy,
feeding the engine excessive air and fuel, leading to a high idle.

Fix the simple stuff first. Don't tackle hi-falutin' things like the TPS
when the problem is about 99.99% certain to be a lot simpler than that.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Yes, its OEM. I bought about $600 worth of parts last time I did my timing
belt, and the t-stat is one of 2 leftover... I also have an oil pan gasket
I've been meaning to use.

Have doused the spring assembly where the throttle cable hooks up with a good
cleaner, and have now lubed it using a good spray lube (no WD40!). The
problem seems to have gone away.

Definitely doing the simple stuff first. The shop manual says the TPS is not
serviceable... IE the Throttle body has to be replaced.... OUCH. I start
with cleaning the original assembly.

Tegger wrote:
>>>> Good day,
>>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>>
>> No air lines that I can see.
>
>Then you don't have "that" kind of injectors.
>
>>>How clean is your throttle body?
>>
>> Not. I will clean it up good tonight, I did a basic cleaning to free
>> up the spring and the throttle plate.
>
>Make certain that thrpottle body is squeaky clean. There shoyuld be NO
>traces of gum or carbon ANYWHERE, especially in the tight sports.
>
>Use a brick or something on the gas pedal to prop the throttle plate
>open. Do not spray the cleaner dirtectly into the TB, bt spray it on a
>tothbrush and use that to scrub the carbon. Wrap an old T-shirt around a
>dry toothbrush and use that to wipe.
>
>>>How old is your thermostat?
>>
>> Original. I have a new one, haven't put it in yet.
>
>I hope it's OEM and not aftermarket.
>
>An old thermostat can fool the ECM into thinking the engine is colder
>than it actually is. The ECM will then go into "warmup" strategy,
>feeding the engine excessive air and fuel, leading to a high idle.
>
>Fix the simple stuff first. Don't tackle hi-falutin' things like the TPS
>when the problem is about 99.99% certain to be a lot simpler than that.
>

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

Yes, its OEM. I bought about $600 worth of parts last time I did my timing
belt, and the t-stat is one of 2 leftover... I also have an oil pan gasket
I've been meaning to use.

Have doused the spring assembly where the throttle cable hooks up with a good
cleaner, and have now lubed it using a good spray lube (no WD40!). The
problem seems to have gone away.

Definitely doing the simple stuff first. The shop manual says the TPS is not
serviceable... IE the Throttle body has to be replaced.... OUCH. I start
with cleaning the original assembly.

Tegger wrote:
>>>> Good day,
>>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>>
>> No air lines that I can see.
>
>Then you don't have "that" kind of injectors.
>
>>>How clean is your throttle body?
>>
>> Not. I will clean it up good tonight, I did a basic cleaning to free
>> up the spring and the throttle plate.
>
>Make certain that thrpottle body is squeaky clean. There shoyuld be NO
>traces of gum or carbon ANYWHERE, especially in the tight sports.
>
>Use a brick or something on the gas pedal to prop the throttle plate
>open. Do not spray the cleaner dirtectly into the TB, bt spray it on a
>tothbrush and use that to scrub the carbon. Wrap an old T-shirt around a
>dry toothbrush and use that to wipe.
>
>>>How old is your thermostat?
>>
>> Original. I have a new one, haven't put it in yet.
>
>I hope it's OEM and not aftermarket.
>
>An old thermostat can fool the ECM into thinking the engine is colder
>than it actually is. The ECM will then go into "warmup" strategy,
>feeding the engine excessive air and fuel, leading to a high idle.
>
>Fix the simple stuff first. Don't tackle hi-falutin' things like the TPS
>when the problem is about 99.99% certain to be a lot simpler than that.
>

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:793c11a29f7b3@uwe:

> Yes, its OEM. I bought about $600 worth of parts last time I did my
> timing belt, and the t-stat is one of 2 leftover... I also have an oil
> pan gasket I've been meaning to use.
>
> Have doused the spring assembly where the throttle cable hooks up with
> a good cleaner, and have now lubed it using a good spray lube (no
> WD40!). The problem seems to have gone away.



The linkage is not your problem. You should not have ANY grease there at
all, as it will eventually attract dirt and begin to gum up, causing more
grief.

Clean that grease off the outside of the throttle body and leave it bone-
dry.

Make 100% certain the INSIDE of the throttle body is cleaned according to
my previous (badly typed) instructions.

If I were you, I'd replace the thermostat anyway. It's simply too old for
comfort.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:793c11a29f7b3@uwe:

> Yes, its OEM. I bought about $600 worth of parts last time I did my
> timing belt, and the t-stat is one of 2 leftover... I also have an oil
> pan gasket I've been meaning to use.
>
> Have doused the spring assembly where the throttle cable hooks up with
> a good cleaner, and have now lubed it using a good spray lube (no
> WD40!). The problem seems to have gone away.



The linkage is not your problem. You should not have ANY grease there at
all, as it will eventually attract dirt and begin to gum up, causing more
grief.

Clean that grease off the outside of the throttle body and leave it bone-
dry.

Make 100% certain the INSIDE of the throttle body is cleaned according to
my previous (badly typed) instructions.

If I were you, I'd replace the thermostat anyway. It's simply too old for
comfort.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/