99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
01-21-2006, 06:12 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the door
swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the
rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this switch
when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the
top) the switch is supposed to return.
It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come back.
It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there, but
am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return, and
I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck). I've
sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not that
it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
Thanks!
--
"Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
"reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
sound like a complete idiot.
01-21-2006, 10:40 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
I looked at my 01 thinking that there the same but I didn't see a switch, I
would go to the Honda body shop and ask them, sorry I can't help.
Tom
"Thomas G. Marshall" <tgm2tothe10thpower@replacetextwithnumber.hotmail. com>
wrote in message news:9dzAf.9172$La4.6598@trndny08...
>
> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the
> door swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of
> the rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this
> switch when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges
> at the top) the switch is supposed to return.
>
> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come
> back.
>
> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there,
> but am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does
> return, and I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once
> unstuck). I've sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually
> surprised not that it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>
> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
> sound like a complete idiot.
>
>
would go to the Honda body shop and ask them, sorry I can't help.
Tom
"Thomas G. Marshall" <tgm2tothe10thpower@replacetextwithnumber.hotmail. com>
wrote in message news:9dzAf.9172$La4.6598@trndny08...
>
> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the
> door swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of
> the rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this
> switch when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges
> at the top) the switch is supposed to return.
>
> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come
> back.
>
> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there,
> but am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does
> return, and I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once
> unstuck). I've sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually
> surprised not that it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>
> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
> sound like a complete idiot.
>
>
01-21-2006, 11:38 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
"Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
>
> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the door
> swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the
> rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this switch
> when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the
> top) the switch is supposed to return.
>
> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come back.
>
> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there, but
> am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return, and
> I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck). I've
> sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not that
> it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>
> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
> sound like a complete idiot.
-----------------------
Good point about the Realtors. Some of them will have a NEW-CLEAR (as
opposed to nuke-you'll-er) meltdown if they read it, but you're right.
Makes them sound like idiots.
Go sign in at hondasuv.com and 'search' for 'tailgate' and 'latch'. I
think you mean to say that the release handle is also dragging, or not
releasing after you squeeze it with your fist also, right? It happens
most in climates where salt is used on the roads. I've had a few apart.
Don't use white lithium or you'll be waiting for a warm day to go in
there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you
need more help.
'Curly'
>
> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the door
> swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the
> rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this switch
> when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the
> top) the switch is supposed to return.
>
> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come back.
>
> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there, but
> am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return, and
> I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck). I've
> sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not that
> it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>
> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
> sound like a complete idiot.
-----------------------
Good point about the Realtors. Some of them will have a NEW-CLEAR (as
opposed to nuke-you'll-er) meltdown if they read it, but you're right.
Makes them sound like idiots.
Go sign in at hondasuv.com and 'search' for 'tailgate' and 'latch'. I
think you mean to say that the release handle is also dragging, or not
releasing after you squeeze it with your fist also, right? It happens
most in climates where salt is used on the roads. I've had a few apart.
Don't use white lithium or you'll be waiting for a warm day to go in
there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you
need more help.
'Curly'
01-22-2006, 01:22 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
'Curly Q. Links' said something like:
> "Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
>>
>> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the
>> door
>> swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the
>> rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this
>> switch
>> when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the
>> top) the switch is supposed to return.
>>
>> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come
>> back.
>>
>> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there,
>> but
>> am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return,
>> and
>> I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck).
>> I've
>> sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not
>> that
>> it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>>
>> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --
>> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
>> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
>> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
>> sound like a complete idiot.
>
> -----------------------
>
> Good point about the Realtors. Some of them will have a NEW-CLEAR (as
> opposed to nuke-you'll-er) meltdown if they read it, but you're right.
> Makes them sound like idiots.
>
> Go sign in at hondasuv.com and 'search' for 'tailgate' and 'latch'. I
> think you mean to say that the release handle is also dragging, or not
> releasing after you squeeze it with your fist also, right? It happens
> most in climates where salt is used on the roads. I've had a few apart.
> Don't use white lithium or you'll be waiting for a warm day to go in
> there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you
> need more help.
Well, actually, the handle works if the plastic switch is all the way up.
It doesn't work at all if the lever is depressed (it "thinks" the window is
still closed.) I'm not describing this properly.
On the tailgate at the top left corner there is what looks like a (maybe) 2"
x 2" plastic housing (IIRC---I can't get outside right now). Within that
there is a maybe 1"x1" plastic lever that (when the rear window is open) is
up and flush with the rest of the 2x2 housing. When the window closes,
there is a piece of metal attached to the bottom corner of the window that
depresses the 1x1 plastic lever inwards.
1. When the lever (switch) is pressed in by the window, the tailgate is
locked and cannot open.
2. When the window is opened, the lever (switch) is supposed to snap up
towards you, enabling the tailgate to open up. This is not happening, and
the tailgate stays locked and un-openable.
3. If I tap hard on the plastic lever, I can dislodge it from whatever and
it snaps toward me again, allowing the tailgate to be opened.
Thanks,
PS: Thanks for the heads up about the Wh. Lithium grease. The most
important things to post online are your own mistakes!!!!!!!!! They are
invaluable to others!
--
"So I just, uh... I just cut them up like regular chickens?"
"Sure, just cut them up like regular chickens."
> "Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
>>
>> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the
>> door
>> swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the
>> rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this
>> switch
>> when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the
>> top) the switch is supposed to return.
>>
>> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come
>> back.
>>
>> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there,
>> but
>> am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return,
>> and
>> I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck).
>> I've
>> sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not
>> that
>> it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>>
>> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --
>> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
>> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
>> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
>> sound like a complete idiot.
>
> -----------------------
>
> Good point about the Realtors. Some of them will have a NEW-CLEAR (as
> opposed to nuke-you'll-er) meltdown if they read it, but you're right.
> Makes them sound like idiots.
>
> Go sign in at hondasuv.com and 'search' for 'tailgate' and 'latch'. I
> think you mean to say that the release handle is also dragging, or not
> releasing after you squeeze it with your fist also, right? It happens
> most in climates where salt is used on the roads. I've had a few apart.
> Don't use white lithium or you'll be waiting for a warm day to go in
> there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you
> need more help.
Well, actually, the handle works if the plastic switch is all the way up.
It doesn't work at all if the lever is depressed (it "thinks" the window is
still closed.) I'm not describing this properly.
On the tailgate at the top left corner there is what looks like a (maybe) 2"
x 2" plastic housing (IIRC---I can't get outside right now). Within that
there is a maybe 1"x1" plastic lever that (when the rear window is open) is
up and flush with the rest of the 2x2 housing. When the window closes,
there is a piece of metal attached to the bottom corner of the window that
depresses the 1x1 plastic lever inwards.
1. When the lever (switch) is pressed in by the window, the tailgate is
locked and cannot open.
2. When the window is opened, the lever (switch) is supposed to snap up
towards you, enabling the tailgate to open up. This is not happening, and
the tailgate stays locked and un-openable.
3. If I tap hard on the plastic lever, I can dislodge it from whatever and
it snaps toward me again, allowing the tailgate to be opened.
Thanks,
PS: Thanks for the heads up about the Wh. Lithium grease. The most
important things to post online are your own mistakes!!!!!!!!! They are
invaluable to others!
--
"So I just, uh... I just cut them up like regular chickens?"
"Sure, just cut them up like regular chickens."
01-22-2006, 06:23 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
If you can't get any success peeking in the 4" x 4" access hatch you'll
have to pop the whole cover off. Peel the door gasket up a bit , remove
screws behind the plastic hook, and inside the storage hatch. The whole
cover pops off just like a normal door panel toward you, not up. Have a
pry bar handy to help. Warm weather is helpful.
'Curly'
01-24-2006, 01:55 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
'Curly Q. Links' said something like:
> If you can't get any success peeking in the 4" x 4" access hatch you'll
> have to pop the whole cover off. Peel the door gasket up a bit , remove
> screws behind the plastic hook, and inside the storage hatch. The whole
> cover pops off just like a normal door panel toward you, not up. Have a
> pry bar handy to help. Warm weather is helpful.
>
> 'Curly'
Excellent! Thanks---I'll give'r a look!
--
Forgetthesong,I'dratherhavethefrontallobotomy...
> If you can't get any success peeking in the 4" x 4" access hatch you'll
> have to pop the whole cover off. Peel the door gasket up a bit , remove
> screws behind the plastic hook, and inside the storage hatch. The whole
> cover pops off just like a normal door panel toward you, not up. Have a
> pry bar handy to help. Warm weather is helpful.
>
> 'Curly'
Excellent! Thanks---I'll give'r a look!
--
Forgetthesong,I'dratherhavethefrontallobotomy...
02-05-2006, 08:54 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
'Curly Q. Links' said something like:
> "Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
>>
>> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the
>> door
>> swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the
>> rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this
>> switch
>> when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the
>> top) the switch is supposed to return.
>>
>> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come
>> back.
>>
>> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there,
>> but
>> am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return,
>> and
>> I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck).
>> I've
>> sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not
>> that
>> it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>>
>> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --
>> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
>> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
>> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
>> sound like a complete idiot.
>
> -----------------------
>
> Good point about the Realtors. Some of them will have a NEW-CLEAR (as
> opposed to nuke-you'll-er) meltdown if they read it, but you're right.
> Makes them sound like idiots.
>
> Go sign in at hondasuv.com and 'search' for 'tailgate' and 'latch'. I
> think you mean to say that the release handle is also dragging, or not
> releasing after you squeeze it with your fist also, right? It happens
> most in climates where salt is used on the roads. I've had a few apart.
> Don't use white lithium or you'll be waiting for a warm day to go in
> there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you
> need more help.
>
> 'Curly'
As it turns out, you are right---the release handle *is* not returning with
a snap either, "is dragging", or otherwise feels mushy.
I looked inside the 4x4 hatch. I have a genetic predisposition to being
UNABLE TO REMOVE HONDA PANELS, door or dashboard, so I failed miserably
there. Either the clips don't release (as with the door), or they snap out
entirely and fall within the chassis (as with the dashboard), or, or, or...
Too frustrating for me to face right now {author downs a prozac...}
So I put the door panel screws back in and did the best I could with the 4x4
access hatch. I'll do the best I can to explain it here.
The window lever thing on the left side of the tail gate is attached to a
piece of metal that slides along a curved piece of metal within the door.
This is rubbing with enough friction to actually stick. Heavy black lithium
grease carefully applied just there will get me through the very near term.
The curved piece of metal that it is sliding along looks like it is attached
to the handle and to the tail gate latch on the edge of the door. Here's
the thing: If I reach in with my finger and push the curved piece of metal
UP the extra 1/16" (or less!) then the curved metal is hardly contacted at
all and everything is smooth.
I have to wonder if there is a return spring or something similar broken, so
that the entire handle-curvedmetal-sidelatch assembly doesn't snap back
*all* the way.
Not sure----you said you've seen this a lot? I live in Massachusetts: there
is a /lot/ of salt dumped here...
--
http://www.allexperts.com is a nifty way to get an answer to just about
/anything/.
> "Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
>>
>> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the
>> door
>> swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the
>> rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this
>> switch
>> when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the
>> top) the switch is supposed to return.
>>
>> It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come
>> back.
>>
>> It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there,
>> but
>> am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return,
>> and
>> I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck).
>> I've
>> sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not
>> that
>> it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect.
>>
>> Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --
>> "Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and
>> "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!!
>> If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will
>> sound like a complete idiot.
>
> -----------------------
>
> Good point about the Realtors. Some of them will have a NEW-CLEAR (as
> opposed to nuke-you'll-er) meltdown if they read it, but you're right.
> Makes them sound like idiots.
>
> Go sign in at hondasuv.com and 'search' for 'tailgate' and 'latch'. I
> think you mean to say that the release handle is also dragging, or not
> releasing after you squeeze it with your fist also, right? It happens
> most in climates where salt is used on the roads. I've had a few apart.
> Don't use white lithium or you'll be waiting for a warm day to go in
> there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you
> need more help.
>
> 'Curly'
As it turns out, you are right---the release handle *is* not returning with
a snap either, "is dragging", or otherwise feels mushy.
I looked inside the 4x4 hatch. I have a genetic predisposition to being
UNABLE TO REMOVE HONDA PANELS, door or dashboard, so I failed miserably
there. Either the clips don't release (as with the door), or they snap out
entirely and fall within the chassis (as with the dashboard), or, or, or...
Too frustrating for me to face right now {author downs a prozac...}
So I put the door panel screws back in and did the best I could with the 4x4
access hatch. I'll do the best I can to explain it here.
The window lever thing on the left side of the tail gate is attached to a
piece of metal that slides along a curved piece of metal within the door.
This is rubbing with enough friction to actually stick. Heavy black lithium
grease carefully applied just there will get me through the very near term.
The curved piece of metal that it is sliding along looks like it is attached
to the handle and to the tail gate latch on the edge of the door. Here's
the thing: If I reach in with my finger and push the curved piece of metal
UP the extra 1/16" (or less!) then the curved metal is hardly contacted at
all and everything is smooth.
I have to wonder if there is a return spring or something similar broken, so
that the entire handle-curvedmetal-sidelatch assembly doesn't snap back
*all* the way.
Not sure----you said you've seen this a lot? I live in Massachusetts: there
is a /lot/ of salt dumped here...
--
http://www.allexperts.com is a nifty way to get an answer to just about
/anything/.
02-06-2006, 12:12 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
"Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
> As it turns out, you are right---the release handle *is* not returning with
> a snap either, "is dragging", or otherwise feels mushy.
>
> I looked inside the 4x4 hatch. I have a genetic predisposition to being
> UNABLE TO REMOVE HONDA PANELS, door or dashboard, so I failed miserably
> there. Either the clips don't release (as with the door), or they snap out
> entirely and fall within the chassis (as with the dashboard), or, or, or...
> Too frustrating for me to face right now {author downs a prozac...}
>
> So I put the door panel screws back in and did the best I could with the 4x4
> access hatch. I'll do the best I can to explain it here.
>
> The window lever thing on the left side of the tail gate is attached to a
> piece of metal that slides along a curved piece of metal within the door.
> This is rubbing with enough friction to actually stick. Heavy black lithium
> grease carefully applied just there will get me through the very near term.
>
> The curved piece of metal that it is sliding along looks like it is attached
> to the handle and to the tail gate latch on the edge of the door. Here's
> the thing: If I reach in with my finger and push the curved piece of metal
> UP the extra 1/16" (or less!) then the curved metal is hardly contacted at
> all and everything is smooth.
>
> I have to wonder if there is a return spring or something similar broken, so
> that the entire handle-curvedmetal-sidelatch assembly doesn't snap back
> *all* the way.
>
> Not sure----you said you've seen this a lot? I live in Massachusetts: there
> is a /lot/ of salt dumped here...
>
> --
> http://www.allexperts.com is a nifty way to get an answer to just about
> /anything/.
----------------------------
Sorry I forgot to mention hondasuv.com. Sign in, then search the CR-V
section for 'latch' or 'tailgate'. You might have to look in the
archives. It happens on Generation 1's. ('97 - '01). Just don't put any
oil or dino-based GREASE on it. I won't work all winter if you do.
'Curly'
> As it turns out, you are right---the release handle *is* not returning with
> a snap either, "is dragging", or otherwise feels mushy.
>
> I looked inside the 4x4 hatch. I have a genetic predisposition to being
> UNABLE TO REMOVE HONDA PANELS, door or dashboard, so I failed miserably
> there. Either the clips don't release (as with the door), or they snap out
> entirely and fall within the chassis (as with the dashboard), or, or, or...
> Too frustrating for me to face right now {author downs a prozac...}
>
> So I put the door panel screws back in and did the best I could with the 4x4
> access hatch. I'll do the best I can to explain it here.
>
> The window lever thing on the left side of the tail gate is attached to a
> piece of metal that slides along a curved piece of metal within the door.
> This is rubbing with enough friction to actually stick. Heavy black lithium
> grease carefully applied just there will get me through the very near term.
>
> The curved piece of metal that it is sliding along looks like it is attached
> to the handle and to the tail gate latch on the edge of the door. Here's
> the thing: If I reach in with my finger and push the curved piece of metal
> UP the extra 1/16" (or less!) then the curved metal is hardly contacted at
> all and everything is smooth.
>
> I have to wonder if there is a return spring or something similar broken, so
> that the entire handle-curvedmetal-sidelatch assembly doesn't snap back
> *all* the way.
>
> Not sure----you said you've seen this a lot? I live in Massachusetts: there
> is a /lot/ of salt dumped here...
>
> --
> http://www.allexperts.com is a nifty way to get an answer to just about
> /anything/.
----------------------------
Sorry I forgot to mention hondasuv.com. Sign in, then search the CR-V
section for 'latch' or 'tailgate'. You might have to look in the
archives. It happens on Generation 1's. ('97 - '01). Just don't put any
oil or dino-based GREASE on it. I won't work all winter if you do.
'Curly'
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09-26-2006 11:12 PM
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