High Tech Misfit

I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start of
the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
They include:

- Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
- Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
here); panel was replaced with a used one;
- Hood release cable broke;
- Clogged fuel filter;
- Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due to
years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
- Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.

The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items set
me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have just
popped up:

1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
was the tires).

2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in and
out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?

3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler and
cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is known
to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.

4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
next spring.

I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues and
some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than I
have been this year.

Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for a
car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)

So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?

Larry in AZ

Waiving the right to remain silent, High Tech Misfit <me@privacy.net> said:

> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?

It's never going to get "better"...

--
Larry J. - Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail

"I've come here to enjoy nature. Don't talk to me
about the environment!" - 'Denny Crane'

Larry in AZ

Waiving the right to remain silent, High Tech Misfit <me@privacy.net> said:

> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?

It's never going to get "better"...

--
Larry J. - Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail

"I've come here to enjoy nature. Don't talk to me
about the environment!" - 'Denny Crane'

Larry in AZ

Waiving the right to remain silent, High Tech Misfit <me@privacy.net> said:

> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?

It's never going to get "better"...

--
Larry J. - Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail

"I've come here to enjoy nature. Don't talk to me
about the environment!" - 'Denny Crane'

Grumpy AuContraire

High Tech Misfit wrote:
>
> I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start of
> the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> They include:
>
> - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> - Hood release cable broke;
> - Clogged fuel filter;
> - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due to
> years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
>
> The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items set
> me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have just
> popped up:
>
> 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> was the tires).
>
> 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in and
> out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
>
> 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler and
> cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is known
> to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
>
> 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> next spring.
>
> I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues and
> some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than I
> have been this year.
>
> Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for a
> car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
>
> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?


Just put a pencil to paper and lay out the pros 'n cons.

What condition is the basic drive train?

What condition is the body structure in?

Is the cosmetic appearance satisfactory (to you)?

Condition of Brakes, Electrical System??

Cost of a new car vs. continued maintenance should be a fairly easy decision.

I tend to keep the old because I know what's in it, what I can work on
myself vs the almost total automation of a new unit of which you'll be
at the mercy of the dealer's service department.

Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
of yesteryear...

JT

Grumpy AuContraire

High Tech Misfit wrote:
>
> I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start of
> the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> They include:
>
> - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> - Hood release cable broke;
> - Clogged fuel filter;
> - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due to
> years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
>
> The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items set
> me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have just
> popped up:
>
> 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> was the tires).
>
> 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in and
> out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
>
> 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler and
> cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is known
> to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
>
> 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> next spring.
>
> I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues and
> some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than I
> have been this year.
>
> Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for a
> car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
>
> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?


Just put a pencil to paper and lay out the pros 'n cons.

What condition is the basic drive train?

What condition is the body structure in?

Is the cosmetic appearance satisfactory (to you)?

Condition of Brakes, Electrical System??

Cost of a new car vs. continued maintenance should be a fairly easy decision.

I tend to keep the old because I know what's in it, what I can work on
myself vs the almost total automation of a new unit of which you'll be
at the mercy of the dealer's service department.

Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
of yesteryear...

JT

Grumpy AuContraire

High Tech Misfit wrote:
>
> I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start of
> the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> They include:
>
> - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> - Hood release cable broke;
> - Clogged fuel filter;
> - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due to
> years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
>
> The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items set
> me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have just
> popped up:
>
> 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> was the tires).
>
> 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in and
> out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
>
> 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler and
> cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is known
> to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
>
> 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> next spring.
>
> I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues and
> some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than I
> have been this year.
>
> Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for a
> car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
>
> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?


Just put a pencil to paper and lay out the pros 'n cons.

What condition is the basic drive train?

What condition is the body structure in?

Is the cosmetic appearance satisfactory (to you)?

Condition of Brakes, Electrical System??

Cost of a new car vs. continued maintenance should be a fairly easy decision.

I tend to keep the old because I know what's in it, what I can work on
myself vs the almost total automation of a new unit of which you'll be
at the mercy of the dealer's service department.

Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
of yesteryear...

JT

Larry in AZ

Waiving the right to remain silent, Grumpy AuContraire
<Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> said:

> Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
> complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
> of yesteryear...

Yeah, the good old days when oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles,
points, plugs and grease points every 12,000 miles, brakes every 20,000
miles, tires every 30,000 miles, etc., etc.

I was there. Unless you wanted to be a weekend mechanic, it really wasn't
that much fun...

--
Larry J. - Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail

"I've come here to enjoy nature. Don't talk to me
about the environment!" - 'Denny Crane'

Larry in AZ

Waiving the right to remain silent, Grumpy AuContraire
<Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> said:

> Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
> complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
> of yesteryear...

Yeah, the good old days when oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles,
points, plugs and grease points every 12,000 miles, brakes every 20,000
miles, tires every 30,000 miles, etc., etc.

I was there. Unless you wanted to be a weekend mechanic, it really wasn't
that much fun...

--
Larry J. - Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail

"I've come here to enjoy nature. Don't talk to me
about the environment!" - 'Denny Crane'

Larry in AZ

Waiving the right to remain silent, Grumpy AuContraire
<Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> said:

> Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
> complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
> of yesteryear...

Yeah, the good old days when oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles,
points, plugs and grease points every 12,000 miles, brakes every 20,000
miles, tires every 30,000 miles, etc., etc.

I was there. Unless you wanted to be a weekend mechanic, it really wasn't
that much fun...

--
Larry J. - Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail

"I've come here to enjoy nature. Don't talk to me
about the environment!" - 'Denny Crane'

Earle Horton

If you have a good job, just get a new car. The car shouldn't be making
exhaust noises, just after the cat and muffler were replaced. If this is
indeed exhaust, it is a sign of shoddy workmanship. I can't hear it, but
parts installed wrong, a clamp loosened up or a hanger that should have been
replaced are likely suspects. A car this old should go through a couple of
years of nearly constant repairs, then it should be good for another ten, if
you get everything in this round. Taxes are likely lower than a new car,
and you are not making car payments. This is a good type of a car for
people on a budget, IF they can fix things themselves, or at least perform
some level of diagnosis. If you are at the tender mercies of a mechanic,
the math is unfavorable for keeping it.

Earle

"High Tech Misfit" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:9cs0npgzine$.dlg@hightech.misfit...
> I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start
of
> the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> They include:
>
> - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> - Hood release cable broke;
> - Clogged fuel filter;
> - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due
to
> years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
>
> The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items
set
> me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have
just
> popped up:
>
> 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> was the tires).
>
> 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in
and
> out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
>
> 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler
and
> cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is
known
> to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
>
> 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> next spring.
>
> I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues
and
> some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than
I
> have been this year.
>
> Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for
a
> car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
>
> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?

Earle Horton

If you have a good job, just get a new car. The car shouldn't be making
exhaust noises, just after the cat and muffler were replaced. If this is
indeed exhaust, it is a sign of shoddy workmanship. I can't hear it, but
parts installed wrong, a clamp loosened up or a hanger that should have been
replaced are likely suspects. A car this old should go through a couple of
years of nearly constant repairs, then it should be good for another ten, if
you get everything in this round. Taxes are likely lower than a new car,
and you are not making car payments. This is a good type of a car for
people on a budget, IF they can fix things themselves, or at least perform
some level of diagnosis. If you are at the tender mercies of a mechanic,
the math is unfavorable for keeping it.

Earle

"High Tech Misfit" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:9cs0npgzine$.dlg@hightech.misfit...
> I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start
of
> the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> They include:
>
> - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> - Hood release cable broke;
> - Clogged fuel filter;
> - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due
to
> years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
>
> The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items
set
> me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have
just
> popped up:
>
> 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> was the tires).
>
> 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in
and
> out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
>
> 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler
and
> cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is
known
> to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
>
> 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> next spring.
>
> I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues
and
> some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than
I
> have been this year.
>
> Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for
a
> car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
>
> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?

Earle Horton

If you have a good job, just get a new car. The car shouldn't be making
exhaust noises, just after the cat and muffler were replaced. If this is
indeed exhaust, it is a sign of shoddy workmanship. I can't hear it, but
parts installed wrong, a clamp loosened up or a hanger that should have been
replaced are likely suspects. A car this old should go through a couple of
years of nearly constant repairs, then it should be good for another ten, if
you get everything in this round. Taxes are likely lower than a new car,
and you are not making car payments. This is a good type of a car for
people on a budget, IF they can fix things themselves, or at least perform
some level of diagnosis. If you are at the tender mercies of a mechanic,
the math is unfavorable for keeping it.

Earle

"High Tech Misfit" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:9cs0npgzine$.dlg@hightech.misfit...
> I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start
of
> the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> They include:
>
> - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> - Hood release cable broke;
> - Clogged fuel filter;
> - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due
to
> years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
>
> The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items
set
> me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have
just
> popped up:
>
> 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> was the tires).
>
> 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in
and
> out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
>
> 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler
and
> cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is
known
> to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
>
> 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> next spring.
>
> I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues
and
> some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than
I
> have been this year.
>
> Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for
a
> car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
>
> So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?

Grumpy AuContraire

Larry in AZ wrote:
>
> Waiving the right to remain silent, Grumpy AuContraire
> <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> said:
>
> > Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
> > complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
> > of yesteryear...
>
> Yeah, the good old days when oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles,
> points, plugs and grease points every 12,000 miles, brakes every 20,000
> miles, tires every 30,000 miles, etc., etc.
>
> I was there. Unless you wanted to be a weekend mechanic, it really wasn't
> that much fun...
>
>


Which goes to show how helpless you've become.

You still should change dino oil every 5K max and those other things
that are no longer maintainable like electronic ignition will leave you
at the side of the road.

As an aside, I always got 40-50K out of a set of points and plugs and
nearly that with brakes. I still drive one old car on a regular basis
and the plugs, points etc are over five years old and it has NEVER
failed to start.

JT

Grumpy AuContraire

Larry in AZ wrote:
>
> Waiving the right to remain silent, Grumpy AuContraire
> <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> said:
>
> > Remember, these days, new doesn't necessarily mean less. Because of
> > complexity, certain service intervals can be costly vs the simpler days
> > of yesteryear...
>
> Yeah, the good old days when oil needed to be changed every 3,000 miles,
> points, plugs and grease points every 12,000 miles, brakes every 20,000
> miles, tires every 30,000 miles, etc., etc.
>
> I was there. Unless you wanted to be a weekend mechanic, it really wasn't
> that much fun...
>
>


Which goes to show how helpless you've become.

You still should change dino oil every 5K max and those other things
that are no longer maintainable like electronic ignition will leave you
at the side of the road.

As an aside, I always got 40-50K out of a set of points and plugs and
nearly that with brakes. I still drive one old car on a regular basis
and the plugs, points etc are over five years old and it has NEVER
failed to start.

JT