GTcarz - Automotive forums for cars & trucks. - Advice wanted

- Honda Mailing List (https://www.gtcarz.com/honda-mailing-list-327/)

- - Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go? (https://www.gtcarz.com/honda-mailing-list-327/advice-wanted-should-stay-should-go-294311/)

Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?

"N.E.Ohio Bob" wrote:
>
> High Tech Misfit wrote:
> > I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> > been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start of
> > the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> > They include:
> >
> > - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> > - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> > here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> > - Hood release cable broke;
> > - Clogged fuel filter;
> > - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due to
> > years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> > - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
> >
> > The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items set
> > me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have just
> > popped up:
> >
> > 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> > suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> > that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> > had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> > was the tires).
> >
> > 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in and
> > out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> > the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> > sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> > underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> > replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
> >
> > 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> > acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> > don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler and
> > cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> > replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is known
> > to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
> >
> > 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> > on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> > next spring.
> >
> > I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues and
> > some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> > new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> > time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> > year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> > there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> > have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than I
> > have been this year.
> >
> > Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for a
> > car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> > over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
> >
> > So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> > next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?
>
> Regarding #2 Fuel smell is probably the fuel line joint where it
> transitions from metal to rubber on the left side of the tank. Take a
> close look, and may be an easy fix. Cut out the old joint and put in a
> small length of hose with two clamps.
>
> About #3 Exhaust might be leaking at the flexible joint on the front
> pipe. If it is, go to the home center and get a piece of galvanized heat
> duct 24' long, and cut it to the right length and wrap it around the
> flex area. Use three stainless steel worm drive clamps to hold it tight.
> This repair will out last the car.
>
> And #4 Radiator is easy, but will cost some money. I have done three
> on my '92, and the last one was free because the one I found had a
> lifetime guarantee.
>
> I am just now struggling with the same questions about my good old '92
> LX. Rust is BAD behind the rear bumper front attach points just aft of
> the rear wheels. Large holes there. This is after a gas tank and cat
> replacement this year. The windshield is cracked too, from rust at the
> upper left roof seam.
> I plan to keep going till the doors fall off because with 235,000 miles
> on it, it is only valuable to me. That is UNLESS I can find a rust free
> White two door coupe that needs an engine! bob

You bring up a good point regarding putting a good drive train into a
rust free body. If I were the original poster, I would look for a rust
free body from Texas, Arizona or southern California that might be
drivable to his location.

JT

(Who will be putting a rust free '82 Civic on eBay soon...<g>)

Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?

Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

> You bring up a good point regarding putting a good drive train into a
> rust free body. If I were the original poster, I would look for a rust
> free body from Texas, Arizona or southern California that might be
> drivable to his location.

The engine and tranny in my Accord are all original and working great. But
I am in Canada, so there may be complications in getting a rust-free body up
from the U.S. south.

Update: The loud exhaust note became even louder today (it's loud enough to
make a ricer proud), and fuel is now leaking ever so slightly from
underneath (near the front of the left rear tire). I'm going to get those
problems fixed tomorrow, even if it means going to any mechanic and getting
cheap (i.e. short-term) parts.

And then it looks like I will be looking for a newer car. *sigh*

Thanks for the responses.

Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?

"High Tech Misfit" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:wihovu8izp1p.dlg@hightech.misfit...
>
> Update: The loud exhaust note became even louder today (it's loud enough
> to
> make a ricer proud), and fuel is now leaking ever so slightly from
> underneath (near the front of the left rear tire). I'm going to get those
> problems fixed tomorrow, even if it means going to any mechanic and
> getting
> cheap (i.e. short-term) parts.
>
I bet the loud exhaust note is loose hardware that is backing off. The most
likely location is at the collector flange, where the exhaust manifold
connects to the pipe. Since the exhaust work was just done, the mechanic
who did it should get first whack at making it right.

Otherwise... my favorite test technique (if you have a shop vac available)
is to start with a cold engine. Be sure the shop vac is empty and fit the
hose on the exhaust, then run the shop vac a minute to blow any loose grit
out. Duct tape the hose to the exhaust pipe and turn the shop vac on again.
Feel around the exhaust for the stream of air - it will be obvious when you
find it.

It would be good to get that taken care of quickly before the exhaust ruins
something. If it's the collector, the gasket is probably torched already.
Good thing they are cheap.

Mike

Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?

Michael Pardee wrote:

> I bet the loud exhaust note is loose hardware that is backing off. The most
> likely location is at the collector flange, where the exhaust manifold
> connects to the pipe. Since the exhaust work was just done, the mechanic
> who did it should get first whack at making it right.

Update: The exhaust note resulted from a pair of holes in what the mechanic
referred to as a "front exhaust pipe". Not sure if this is the pipe you are
referring to, but it's the one that extends from the cat toward the front of
the car (this was not replaced when I had the muffler and cat replaced).
This set me back another $220.

Concerning the gas fumes, perhaps that was not fuel I saw on the ground
yesterday because nothing is leaking from underneath now. But the fumes
still remain.

My father suggested to wait until next spring to get a newer car. Well, if
another non-routine problem comes up between now and winter's end, I think
that will be it. :-(

Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?

On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 16:29:18 -0400, High Tech Misfit <me@privacy.net>
wrote:
>I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
>been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start of
>the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.

Anything over twelve years is/was gravy.

Once you have to ask, it's time to go.

J.

Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?

High Tech Misfit <me@privacy.net> wrote in
news:2r1x1w07tr1p$.dlg@hightech.misfit:

>
> Update: The exhaust note resulted from a pair of holes in what the
> mechanic referred to as a "front exhaust pipe". Not sure if this is
> the pipe you are referring to, but it's the one that extends from the
> cat toward the front of the car (this was not replaced when I had the
> muffler and cat replaced). This set me back another $220.

That's the famous A-pipe. Mine's original. 275,000 miles and 15 years.
It's still sound, but is looking decidedly ugly. I think its longevity
is due to my relatively high annual mileage. The car doesn't sit much,

>
> Concerning the gas fumes, perhaps that was not fuel I saw on the
> ground yesterday because nothing is leaking from underneath now. But
> the fumes still remain.

A common source of gas fumes is the low-pressure return lines alongside
the fuel tank, below the filler neck. A secondary source is the filler
neck overflow pipe having rotted.

>
> My father suggested to wait until next spring to get a newer car.
> Well, if another non-routine problem comes up between now and winter's
> end, I think that will be it. :-(
>

Corrosion is a major problem up here, at least in Eastern Canada. I have
found that if you buy the car used, it had better be pretty new,
otherwise rust will have gotten away from you by the time you take
ownership.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?