Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
07-02-2007, 07:06 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
replaced the rears yesterday.
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
(middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
enough to fit...)
They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
replaced the rears yesterday.
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
(middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
enough to fit...)
They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
07-02-2007, 10:39 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
> replaced the rears yesterday.
>
> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>
> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>
> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
> that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>
> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
> get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
> enough to fit...)
>
> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>
> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
>
I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are
you sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on
one end and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1"
of the cross bar and not the links?
> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
> replaced the rears yesterday.
>
> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>
> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>
> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
> that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>
> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
> get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
> enough to fit...)
>
> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>
> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
>
I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are
you sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on
one end and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1"
of the cross bar and not the links?
07-02-2007, 10:39 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
> replaced the rears yesterday.
>
> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>
> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>
> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
> that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>
> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
> get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
> enough to fit...)
>
> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>
> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
>
I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are
you sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on
one end and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1"
of the cross bar and not the links?
> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
> replaced the rears yesterday.
>
> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>
> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>
> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
> that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>
> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
> get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
> enough to fit...)
>
> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>
> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
>
I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are
you sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on
one end and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1"
of the cross bar and not the links?
07-02-2007, 10:39 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
> replaced the rears yesterday.
>
> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>
> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>
> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
> that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>
> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
> get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
> enough to fit...)
>
> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>
> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
>
I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are
you sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on
one end and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1"
of the cross bar and not the links?
> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I
> replaced the rears yesterday.
>
> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>
> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>
> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so
> that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>
> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could
> get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it
> enough to fit...)
>
> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>
> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
>
I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are
you sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on
one end and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1"
of the cross bar and not the links?
07-02-2007, 12:46 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>
>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>
>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>
>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>
>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>
>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>> great...
>>
> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
> cross bar and not the links?
They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
showing on the rears.
Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>
>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>
>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>
>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>
>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>
>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>> great...
>>
> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
> cross bar and not the links?
They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
showing on the rears.
Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
07-02-2007, 12:46 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>
>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>
>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>
>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>
>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>
>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>> great...
>>
> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
> cross bar and not the links?
They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
showing on the rears.
Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>
>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>
>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>
>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>
>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>
>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>> great...
>>
> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
> cross bar and not the links?
They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
showing on the rears.
Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
07-02-2007, 12:46 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>
>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>
>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>
>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>
>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>
>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>> great...
>>
> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
> cross bar and not the links?
They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
showing on the rears.
Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>
>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>
>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>
>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>
>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>
>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>> great...
>>
> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
> cross bar and not the links?
They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
showing on the rears.
Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
07-02-2007, 01:00 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
>
>> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>>
>>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>>
>>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>>
>>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>>
>>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>>
>>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>>> great...
>>>
>> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
>> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
>> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
>> cross bar and not the links?
>
>
> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
> control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
> showing on the rears.
1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say????
they're clueless idiots.
2. /any/ new bushings will feel better.
3. if you're using honda parts, the threads on the links are set so you
just tighten until it stops.
4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having
this discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like
a "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
they'll never squeak.
>
> Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
> that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
> 90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
> you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
>
> The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
>
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
>
>> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>>
>>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>>
>>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>>
>>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>>
>>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>>
>>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>>> great...
>>>
>> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
>> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
>> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
>> cross bar and not the links?
>
>
> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
> control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
> showing on the rears.
1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say????
they're clueless idiots.
2. /any/ new bushings will feel better.
3. if you're using honda parts, the threads on the links are set so you
just tighten until it stops.
4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having
this discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like
a "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
they'll never squeak.
>
> Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
> that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
> 90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
> you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
>
> The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
>
07-02-2007, 01:00 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
>
>> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>>
>>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>>
>>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>>
>>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>>
>>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>>
>>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>>> great...
>>>
>> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
>> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
>> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
>> cross bar and not the links?
>
>
> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
> control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
> showing on the rears.
1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say????
they're clueless idiots.
2. /any/ new bushings will feel better.
3. if you're using honda parts, the threads on the links are set so you
just tighten until it stops.
4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having
this discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like
a "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
they'll never squeak.
>
> Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
> that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
> 90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
> you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
>
> The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
>
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
>
>> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>>
>>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>>
>>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>>
>>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>>
>>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>>
>>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>>> great...
>>>
>> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
>> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
>> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
>> cross bar and not the links?
>
>
> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
> control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
> showing on the rears.
1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say????
they're clueless idiots.
2. /any/ new bushings will feel better.
3. if you're using honda parts, the threads on the links are set so you
just tighten until it stops.
4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having
this discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like
a "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
they'll never squeak.
>
> Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
> that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
> 90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
> you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
>
> The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
>
07-02-2007, 01:00 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
>
>> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>>
>>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>>
>>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>>
>>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>>
>>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>>
>>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>>> great...
>>>
>> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
>> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
>> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
>> cross bar and not the links?
>
>
> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
> control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
> showing on the rears.
1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say????
they're clueless idiots.
2. /any/ new bushings will feel better.
3. if you're using honda parts, the threads on the links are set so you
just tighten until it stops.
4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having
this discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like
a "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
they'll never squeak.
>
> Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
> that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
> 90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
> you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
>
> The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
>
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:
>
>> Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
>>> OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked
>>> the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that
>>> I replaced the rears yesterday.
>>>
>>> http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
>>>
>>> (middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
>>>
>>> The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut
>>> so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
>>>
>>> This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger
>>> than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I
>>> could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to
>>> compress it enough to fit...)
>>>
>>> They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any
>>> gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is
>>> great...
>>>
>> I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you
>> sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end
>> and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the
>> cross bar and not the links?
>
>
> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower
> control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads
> showing on the rears.
1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say????
they're clueless idiots.
2. /any/ new bushings will feel better.
3. if you're using honda parts, the threads on the links are set so you
just tighten until it stops.
4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having
this discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like
a "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
they'll never squeak.
>
> Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings
> that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in
> 90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them,
> you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
>
> The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
>
07-02-2007, 02:03 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>> threads showing on the rears.
>
> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
> clueless idiots.
> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
> they'll never squeak.
Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
(Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
expertise across the groups...
This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
I currently have
'85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
'89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
'89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
'88 Supra Non Turbo
'05 Scion tC
Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>> threads showing on the rears.
>
> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
> clueless idiots.
> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
> they'll never squeak.
Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
(Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
expertise across the groups...
This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
I currently have
'85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
'89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
'89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
'88 Supra Non Turbo
'05 Scion tC
Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
07-02-2007, 02:03 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>> threads showing on the rears.
>
> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
> clueless idiots.
> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
> they'll never squeak.
Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
(Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
expertise across the groups...
This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
I currently have
'85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
'89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
'89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
'88 Supra Non Turbo
'05 Scion tC
Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>> threads showing on the rears.
>
> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
> clueless idiots.
> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
> they'll never squeak.
Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
(Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
expertise across the groups...
This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
I currently have
'85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
'89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
'89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
'88 Supra Non Turbo
'05 Scion tC
Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
07-02-2007, 02:03 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>> threads showing on the rears.
>
> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
> clueless idiots.
> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
> they'll never squeak.
Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
(Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
expertise across the groups...
This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
I currently have
'85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
'89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
'89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
'88 Supra Non Turbo
'05 Scion tC
Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>> threads showing on the rears.
>
> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
> clueless idiots.
> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
> they'll never squeak.
Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
(Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
expertise across the groups...
This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
I currently have
'85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
'89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
'89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
'88 Supra Non Turbo
'05 Scion tC
Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
07-03-2007, 01:52 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>>> threads showing on the rears.
>> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
>> clueless idiots.
>> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
>> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
>> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
>> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
>> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
>> they'll never squeak.
>
>
>
> Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
> (Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
> expertise across the groups...
>
> This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
>
> I currently have
> '85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
> '89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
> '89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
> '88 Supra Non Turbo
> '05 Scion tC
>
> Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
Well, you could still try Honda bushings, too...
Don't mind Jim, he's just being crotchety.
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>>> threads showing on the rears.
>> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
>> clueless idiots.
>> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
>> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
>> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
>> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
>> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
>> they'll never squeak.
>
>
>
> Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
> (Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
> expertise across the groups...
>
> This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
>
> I currently have
> '85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
> '89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
> '89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
> '88 Supra Non Turbo
> '05 Scion tC
>
> Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
Well, you could still try Honda bushings, too...
Don't mind Jim, he's just being crotchety.
07-03-2007, 01:52 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...
Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ｯ wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>>> threads showing on the rears.
>> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
>> clueless idiots.
>> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
>> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
>> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
>> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
>> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
>> they'll never squeak.
>
>
>
> Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
> (Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
> expertise across the groups...
>
> This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
>
> I currently have
> '85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
> '89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
> '89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
> '88 Supra Non Turbo
> '05 Scion tC
>
> Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
Well, you could still try Honda bushings, too...
Don't mind Jim, he's just being crotchety.
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the
>>> lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of
>>> threads showing on the rears.
>> 1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're
>> clueless idiots.
>> 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts,
>> the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops.
>> 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this
>> discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a
>> "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and
>> they'll never squeak.
>
>
>
> Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well
> (Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of
> expertise across the groups...
>
> This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
>
> I currently have
> '85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years
> '89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT
> '89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project'
> '88 Supra Non Turbo
> '05 Scion tC
>
> Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
Well, you could still try Honda bushings, too...
Don't mind Jim, he's just being crotchety.
