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axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that doesn't
need constant repairs, because my only car needs constant repairs, thus keeping me too poor to get a car that... you know. Anyway, my '86 Honda Accord DX (manual trans, 155000 miles) might get me another year's service if I can just get the CV joints fixed, which I will be attempting this week. Got rebuilt axles on eBay (great price, no core bother, but always a gamble, of course) and plan to put them in myself in a few days, and wanted to ask if anyone has specific advice on the job. I've read all the horror stories on the web, most to do with rust-welded spindle nuts, which I don't think will be a factor as I don't live in the mid-west (the 'rust belt'). The job is fairly simple, composed of the steps: .. loosen wheel lug nuts, raise on jack stands, remove spindle nut. I plan to use WD-40 or some other penetrating oil on the spindle nut to help, locking the wheel with a pry bar while using a breaker bar (with pipe extension if necessary) to loosen the spindle nut, but would appreciate any tips anyone has; (or if your own experience tells you I shouldn't be attempting this, let me know too). .. drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a square-drive wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? .. remove damper fork. Question: how difficult? There are 2 bolts - are they likely to be seized or rusted together? .. remove knuckle-to-lower arm castle nut, and separate with 2-arm gear puller. Any problems/tips here I should be aware of? .. pull knuckle outward, removing draveshaft outboard joint from knuckle with a plastic hammer. Q: Can it be stuck to where it just won't come out? If so, how best to get it out... .. pry out the inboard driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver (forcing inner set ring past inner groove in differential); Q: Does it always just 'pop right out'? I'd hate to get stuck at this point! On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is getting the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to properly seat within the differential. Has anyone experience special problems with this task? I guess what I'm looking for is a lot of people to say, Hey - it'll be a breeze - you can do it! If I could afford to have my car towed, I would dive right in and just do it, but I'm really on the edge right now, so just maximizing my chances of getting these rebuilds in with as few problems as possible :) Any help/tips/sharing-of-experiences greatly appreciated. -ed |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: > Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that doesn't > need constant repairs, because my only car needs constant repairs, thus > keeping me too poor to get a car that... you know. > > Anyway, my '86 Honda Accord DX (manual trans, 155000 miles) might get me > another year's service if I can just get the CV joints fixed, which I will > be attempting this week. Got rebuilt axles on eBay (great price, no core > bother, but always a gamble, of course) and plan to put them in myself in a > few days, and wanted to ask if anyone has specific advice on the job. > > I've read all the horror stories on the web, most to do with rust-welded > spindle nuts, which I don't think will be a factor as I don't live in the > mid-west (the 'rust belt'). The job is fairly simple, composed of the steps: > > . loosen wheel lug nuts, raise on jack stands, remove spindle nut. > I plan to use WD-40 or some other penetrating oil on the spindle > nut to help, locking the wheel with a pry bar while using a breaker > bar (with pipe extension if necessary) to loosen the spindle nut, > but would appreciate any tips anyone has; (or if your own experience > tells you I shouldn't be attempting this, let me know too). > Loosen spindle nut FIRST (wheels on the ground, tranny in first gear, parking brake on). Chisel back the locking tab on the nut before loosening the nut. If the shafts are original, you should be able to loosen it with a 2 foot cheater pipe on your breaker bar. If some clown had the shafts out before and used an impact wrench to put the spindle nut back on, it may be over torqued. If that is the case, you will need a 5 foot cheater pipe on your breaker bar. Remember... with a big enough lever and a sturdy fulcrum, you too can move the Earth! Loosen the nut so it is flush with the end of the shaft. Bang on it a bit with a hammer (steel hammer) to get the shaft moving out of the hub a little bit. Look close between bangs to see if the shaft is moving inward toward the car. Now jack up the car and remove the wheels etc.. > . drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a > square-drive > wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? > The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I forget if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. > . remove damper fork. No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want to twist off the head of the bolt. The inner joint is always disassembled, and the shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled through the fork. It is a little messy, and a pain in the ass, but it is MUCH easier (and CHEAPER) than cutting out the lower control arms with a torch and buying new lower control arms! Cleanliness is next to godly. Be careful not to contaminate your inner joint guts with dirt! You will need to get two new inner joint large boot clamps before you start the job. Maybe you were lucky and the CV joint rebuilder put an extra clamp into the box for you! >Question: how difficult? There are 2 bolts - are > they likely to be seized or rusted together? > If the car has been driven in the snow (where salt is used on the road), the lower fork bolt WILL BE SEIZED. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOLT. SEE ABOVE. > . remove knuckle-to-lower arm castle nut, and separate with 2-arm gear > puller. Any problems/tips here I should be aware of? > Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. BUT... BUT... only use ONE TINE of the ball joint fork so that the rubber boot on the ball joint is not damaged. Slip ONE TINE of the fork in between the control arm and the knuckle (not the side closest to the brake rotor, but the other side which is close to the engine). Loosen the castle nut, do not remove it yet. Whack your pickle fork and it will pop the tapered ball joint stud out, without damaging the rubber boot. Now remove the castle nut. If you don't have a ball joint fork, a nice big, fat, rampy cold chisel will work just as well in the same manner as above. Don't piss around with a puller. > . pull knuckle outward, removing draveshaft outboard joint from knuckle > with a plastic hammer. Q: Can it be stuck to where it just won't come > out? If so, how best to get it out... See above re: now jack up the car. Use a regular steel hammer. It has more weight behind it and the drive shaft steel is really tough. It takes a lot of muscle and some real big time hammering to damage that steel. I've whacked out those shafts and didn't even mark the steel! > > . pry out the inboard driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver (forcing inner > set ring past inner groove in differential); Q: Does it always just 'pop > right out'? I'd hate to get stuck at this point! If you have gotten this far, that will be a piece of cake. This is the easy part! If your screwdriver has good "purchase" and good leverage (moving the earth again!) it will POP! > > On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is getting > the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to properly seat > within the differential. Has anyone experience special problems with this > task? A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! Put the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it in with the hammer. You will feel it seat. M.A. Stewart (don't email cf005... sorry...elm filter bounces all incoming email!) > > I guess what I'm looking for is a lot of people to say, Hey - it'll be a > breeze - you can do it! If I could afford to have my car towed, I would dive > right in and just do it, but I'm really on the edge right now, so just > maximizing my chances of getting these rebuilds in with as few problems as > possible :) > > Any help/tips/sharing-of-experiences greatly appreciated. > -ed > > |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: > Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that doesn't > need constant repairs, because my only car needs constant repairs, thus > keeping me too poor to get a car that... you know. > > Anyway, my '86 Honda Accord DX (manual trans, 155000 miles) might get me > another year's service if I can just get the CV joints fixed, which I will > be attempting this week. Got rebuilt axles on eBay (great price, no core > bother, but always a gamble, of course) and plan to put them in myself in a > few days, and wanted to ask if anyone has specific advice on the job. > > I've read all the horror stories on the web, most to do with rust-welded > spindle nuts, which I don't think will be a factor as I don't live in the > mid-west (the 'rust belt'). The job is fairly simple, composed of the steps: > > . loosen wheel lug nuts, raise on jack stands, remove spindle nut. > I plan to use WD-40 or some other penetrating oil on the spindle > nut to help, locking the wheel with a pry bar while using a breaker > bar (with pipe extension if necessary) to loosen the spindle nut, > but would appreciate any tips anyone has; (or if your own experience > tells you I shouldn't be attempting this, let me know too). > Loosen spindle nut FIRST (wheels on the ground, tranny in first gear, parking brake on). Chisel back the locking tab on the nut before loosening the nut. If the shafts are original, you should be able to loosen it with a 2 foot cheater pipe on your breaker bar. If some clown had the shafts out before and used an impact wrench to put the spindle nut back on, it may be over torqued. If that is the case, you will need a 5 foot cheater pipe on your breaker bar. Remember... with a big enough lever and a sturdy fulcrum, you too can move the Earth! Loosen the nut so it is flush with the end of the shaft. Bang on it a bit with a hammer (steel hammer) to get the shaft moving out of the hub a little bit. Look close between bangs to see if the shaft is moving inward toward the car. Now jack up the car and remove the wheels etc.. > . drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a > square-drive > wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? > The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I forget if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. > . remove damper fork. No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want to twist off the head of the bolt. The inner joint is always disassembled, and the shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled through the fork. It is a little messy, and a pain in the ass, but it is MUCH easier (and CHEAPER) than cutting out the lower control arms with a torch and buying new lower control arms! Cleanliness is next to godly. Be careful not to contaminate your inner joint guts with dirt! You will need to get two new inner joint large boot clamps before you start the job. Maybe you were lucky and the CV joint rebuilder put an extra clamp into the box for you! >Question: how difficult? There are 2 bolts - are > they likely to be seized or rusted together? > If the car has been driven in the snow (where salt is used on the road), the lower fork bolt WILL BE SEIZED. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOLT. SEE ABOVE. > . remove knuckle-to-lower arm castle nut, and separate with 2-arm gear > puller. Any problems/tips here I should be aware of? > Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. BUT... BUT... only use ONE TINE of the ball joint fork so that the rubber boot on the ball joint is not damaged. Slip ONE TINE of the fork in between the control arm and the knuckle (not the side closest to the brake rotor, but the other side which is close to the engine). Loosen the castle nut, do not remove it yet. Whack your pickle fork and it will pop the tapered ball joint stud out, without damaging the rubber boot. Now remove the castle nut. If you don't have a ball joint fork, a nice big, fat, rampy cold chisel will work just as well in the same manner as above. Don't piss around with a puller. > . pull knuckle outward, removing draveshaft outboard joint from knuckle > with a plastic hammer. Q: Can it be stuck to where it just won't come > out? If so, how best to get it out... See above re: now jack up the car. Use a regular steel hammer. It has more weight behind it and the drive shaft steel is really tough. It takes a lot of muscle and some real big time hammering to damage that steel. I've whacked out those shafts and didn't even mark the steel! > > . pry out the inboard driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver (forcing inner > set ring past inner groove in differential); Q: Does it always just 'pop > right out'? I'd hate to get stuck at this point! If you have gotten this far, that will be a piece of cake. This is the easy part! If your screwdriver has good "purchase" and good leverage (moving the earth again!) it will POP! > > On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is getting > the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to properly seat > within the differential. Has anyone experience special problems with this > task? A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! Put the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it in with the hammer. You will feel it seat. M.A. Stewart (don't email cf005... sorry...elm filter bounces all incoming email!) > > I guess what I'm looking for is a lot of people to say, Hey - it'll be a > breeze - you can do it! If I could afford to have my car towed, I would dive > right in and just do it, but I'm really on the edge right now, so just > maximizing my chances of getting these rebuilds in with as few problems as > possible :) > > Any help/tips/sharing-of-experiences greatly appreciated. > -ed > > |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djbl0k$p5$1@theodyn.ncf.ca: > > "glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: <snip good advice> > >> . drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a >> square-drive >> wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? >> > > The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I > forget if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. It's 3/8". Probably have to hammer the square into the recess, otherwise it won't go in far enough and will round off the hole. > > >> . remove damper fork. > > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% > sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower > control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In > North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want > to twist off the head of the bolt. That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean all) in the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five bolts came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other four succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they wouldn't come loose. > The inner joint is always > disassembled, and the shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled > through the fork. Couldn't you just pry the inner joint away from the diff casing, or would that damage something? <snip> >> > > Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. Or you can rent one of these puppies: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints <snip> >> On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is >> getting the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to >> properly seat within the differential. Has anyone experience special >> problems with this task? > > A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! > Put the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it > in with the hammer. You will feel it seat. Exactly where would you knock? I'm starting to get a vibration on acceleration. I suspect my inner joints, but my mechanic says they're still tight. (Still? After 252,800 miles?) Next spring all the bushings are getting replaced, along with the tires (which are worn), and the engine mounts. If none of that helps, I'm going to replace the driveshafts. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djbl0k$p5$1@theodyn.ncf.ca: > > "glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: <snip good advice> > >> . drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a >> square-drive >> wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? >> > > The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I > forget if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. It's 3/8". Probably have to hammer the square into the recess, otherwise it won't go in far enough and will round off the hole. > > >> . remove damper fork. > > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% > sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower > control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In > North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want > to twist off the head of the bolt. That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean all) in the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five bolts came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other four succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they wouldn't come loose. > The inner joint is always > disassembled, and the shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled > through the fork. Couldn't you just pry the inner joint away from the diff casing, or would that damage something? <snip> >> > > Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. Or you can rent one of these puppies: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints <snip> >> On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is >> getting the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to >> properly seat within the differential. Has anyone experience special >> problems with this task? > > A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! > Put the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it > in with the hammer. You will feel it seat. Exactly where would you knock? I'm starting to get a vibration on acceleration. I suspect my inner joints, but my mechanic says they're still tight. (Still? After 252,800 miles?) Next spring all the bushings are getting replaced, along with the tires (which are worn), and the engine mounts. If none of that helps, I'm going to replace the driveshafts. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in > > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% > > sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower > > control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In > > North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want > > to twist off the head of the bolt. > > > > That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean all) in > the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five bolts > came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other four > succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ I sheared the heads off two of the three bolts on my 91 Civic's left rear lower control arm last year. Like M.A. Stewart implies, they were thoroughly seized to the rubber bushings etc. This despite soaking in PB Blaster for a day or more. For my amateur set of tools, removing the remains of the two bolts that had seized was incredibly laborious. The archives have a lot on this. My Civic was not garaged for the first five years of its life and was driven in the Northern U.S. for ten years. Has your Integra (year?) been garaged its whole life? I realize you drive in Northern winters. > I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw the > bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they wouldn't come > loose. What kind of saw? For the rears, seems like it's a torch cutting job, to me. I won't do the other side of my Civic without a torch or equivalent alternative. |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in > > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% > > sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower > > control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In > > North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want > > to twist off the head of the bolt. > > > > That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean all) in > the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five bolts > came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other four > succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ I sheared the heads off two of the three bolts on my 91 Civic's left rear lower control arm last year. Like M.A. Stewart implies, they were thoroughly seized to the rubber bushings etc. This despite soaking in PB Blaster for a day or more. For my amateur set of tools, removing the remains of the two bolts that had seized was incredibly laborious. The archives have a lot on this. My Civic was not garaged for the first five years of its life and was driven in the Northern U.S. for ten years. Has your Integra (year?) been garaged its whole life? I realize you drive in Northern winters. > I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw the > bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they wouldn't come > loose. What kind of saw? For the rears, seems like it's a torch cutting job, to me. I won't do the other side of my Civic without a torch or equivalent alternative. |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:xgd6f.65$A63.43@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink. net: > "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote >> cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in >> > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are >> > 100% sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on >> > the lower control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean >> > 100% sure! In North America where it snows, that bolt will be >> > seized. You don't want to twist off the head of the bolt. >> >> >> >> That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean >> all) > in >> the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five > bolts >> came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other >> four succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. >> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ > > I sheared the heads off two of the three bolts on my 91 Civic's left > rear lower control arm last year. Like M.A. Stewart implies, they were > thoroughly seized to the rubber bushings etc. This despite soaking in > PB Blaster for a day or more. I did that too. I used Kroil on one side, and PB on the other. Neither seems to have made much difference. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...s/P7220908.JPG > > For my amateur set of tools, removing the remains of the two bolts > that had seized was incredibly laborious. > > The archives have a lot on this. I remember. > > My Civic was not garaged for the first five years of its life and was > driven in the Northern U.S. for ten years. > > Has your Integra (year?) 1991. 252,770 miles as of today. > been garaged its whole life? I realize you > drive in Northern winters. I drive on Southern Ontario roads. These are just like Michigan or Wisconsin. The car has never seen the inside of a garage. It has, however, been drippy-rustproofed every year since new. This accounts for the absolute lack of rust on any fastener except the two outer ones on the lower arms, and the outer ones on the upper arms. Five of those six gave me trouble. Nothing else did. The problem is that the outer bolts on the front are just like the outer ones on the rear, and I suspect they will not let go for me. They are smack in the middle of the salt and water spray, which erases any attempt at lubrication. > >> I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw >> the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they >> wouldn't > come >> loose. > > What kind of saw? I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are, which will be what makes the difference. There's room for a hacksaw in between the flanges, but I don't know about a reciprocating saw (Sawzall). Would a reciprocating saw risk too much damage to surrounding components? > > For the rears, seems like it's a torch cutting job, to me. The machine shop that cut the one bolt out for me appears to have used a torch or a cutting wheel. They bent up the flange on the trailing arm and knocked the nut off, so I had to replace bolt and nut with a 10.9 set. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...-lower-arm.jpg > > I won't do the other side of my Civic without a torch or equivalent > alternative. > > > Once bitten, twice shy, eh? -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:xgd6f.65$A63.43@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink. net: > "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote >> cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in >> > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are >> > 100% sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on >> > the lower control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean >> > 100% sure! In North America where it snows, that bolt will be >> > seized. You don't want to twist off the head of the bolt. >> >> >> >> That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean >> all) > in >> the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five > bolts >> came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other >> four succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. >> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ > > I sheared the heads off two of the three bolts on my 91 Civic's left > rear lower control arm last year. Like M.A. Stewart implies, they were > thoroughly seized to the rubber bushings etc. This despite soaking in > PB Blaster for a day or more. I did that too. I used Kroil on one side, and PB on the other. Neither seems to have made much difference. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...s/P7220908.JPG > > For my amateur set of tools, removing the remains of the two bolts > that had seized was incredibly laborious. > > The archives have a lot on this. I remember. > > My Civic was not garaged for the first five years of its life and was > driven in the Northern U.S. for ten years. > > Has your Integra (year?) 1991. 252,770 miles as of today. > been garaged its whole life? I realize you > drive in Northern winters. I drive on Southern Ontario roads. These are just like Michigan or Wisconsin. The car has never seen the inside of a garage. It has, however, been drippy-rustproofed every year since new. This accounts for the absolute lack of rust on any fastener except the two outer ones on the lower arms, and the outer ones on the upper arms. Five of those six gave me trouble. Nothing else did. The problem is that the outer bolts on the front are just like the outer ones on the rear, and I suspect they will not let go for me. They are smack in the middle of the salt and water spray, which erases any attempt at lubrication. > >> I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw >> the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they >> wouldn't > come >> loose. > > What kind of saw? I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are, which will be what makes the difference. There's room for a hacksaw in between the flanges, but I don't know about a reciprocating saw (Sawzall). Would a reciprocating saw risk too much damage to surrounding components? > > For the rears, seems like it's a torch cutting job, to me. The machine shop that cut the one bolt out for me appears to have used a torch or a cutting wheel. They bent up the flange on the trailing arm and knocked the nut off, so I had to replace bolt and nut with a 10.9 set. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...-lower-arm.jpg > > I won't do the other side of my Civic without a torch or equivalent > alternative. > > > Once bitten, twice shy, eh? -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
E > > I sheared the heads off two of the three bolts on my 91 Civic's left > > rear lower control arm last year. Like M.A. Stewart implies, they were > > thoroughly seized to the rubber bushings etc. This despite soaking in > > PB Blaster for a day or more. > > > > I did that too. I used Kroil on one side, and PB on the other. Neither > seems to have made much difference. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...s/P7220908.JPG This was the first time PB Blaster let me down. > I drive on Southern Ontario roads. These are just like Michigan or > Wisconsin. The car has never seen the inside of a garage. > > It has, however, been drippy-rustproofed every year since new. What all is "drippy-rustproofed"? > >> I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw > >> the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they > >> wouldn't > > come > >> loose. > > > > What kind of saw? > > > > I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are, which > will be what makes the difference. There's room for a hacksaw in between > the flanges, It's tight. Worse, my hacksaw was not very effective. Have several new blades handy. If you're not getting anywhere after an hour, I'd urge trying something else. > but I don't know about a reciprocating saw (Sawzall). Would a > reciprocating saw risk too much damage to surrounding components? Even if you can get it in where you want to cut, I'm not sure it will actually cut easily through that steel. I don't think I've seen a good solution for this yet. > > I won't do the other side of my Civic without a torch or equivalent > > alternative. > > Once bitten, twice shy, eh? I reckon. I put in a new damper and coil on that side (that was my ultimate goal) and noticed no change in comfort. Plus I'm figuring only about five more years with this car. |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
E > > I sheared the heads off two of the three bolts on my 91 Civic's left > > rear lower control arm last year. Like M.A. Stewart implies, they were > > thoroughly seized to the rubber bushings etc. This despite soaking in > > PB Blaster for a day or more. > > > > I did that too. I used Kroil on one side, and PB on the other. Neither > seems to have made much difference. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...s/P7220908.JPG This was the first time PB Blaster let me down. > I drive on Southern Ontario roads. These are just like Michigan or > Wisconsin. The car has never seen the inside of a garage. > > It has, however, been drippy-rustproofed every year since new. What all is "drippy-rustproofed"? > >> I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw > >> the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they > >> wouldn't > > come > >> loose. > > > > What kind of saw? > > > > I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are, which > will be what makes the difference. There's room for a hacksaw in between > the flanges, It's tight. Worse, my hacksaw was not very effective. Have several new blades handy. If you're not getting anywhere after an hour, I'd urge trying something else. > but I don't know about a reciprocating saw (Sawzall). Would a > reciprocating saw risk too much damage to surrounding components? Even if you can get it in where you want to cut, I'm not sure it will actually cut easily through that steel. I don't think I've seen a good solution for this yet. > > I won't do the other side of my Civic without a torch or equivalent > > alternative. > > Once bitten, twice shy, eh? I reckon. I put in a new damper and coil on that side (that was my ultimate goal) and noticed no change in comfort. Plus I'm figuring only about five more years with this car. |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
M.A. Stewart wrote:
> "glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: > >>Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that doesn't >>need constant repairs, because my only car needs constant repairs, thus >>keeping me too poor to get a car that... you know. >> >>Anyway, my '86 Honda Accord DX (manual trans, 155000 miles) might get me >>another year's service if I can just get the CV joints fixed, which I will >>be attempting this week. Got rebuilt axles on eBay (great price, no core >>bother, but always a gamble, of course) and plan to put them in myself in a >>few days, and wanted to ask if anyone has specific advice on the job. >> >>I've read all the horror stories on the web, most to do with rust-welded >>spindle nuts, which I don't think will be a factor as I don't live in the >>mid-west (the 'rust belt'). The job is fairly simple, composed of the steps: >> >>. loosen wheel lug nuts, raise on jack stands, remove spindle nut. >> I plan to use WD-40 or some other penetrating oil on the spindle >> nut to help, locking the wheel with a pry bar while using a breaker >> bar (with pipe extension if necessary) to loosen the spindle nut, >> but would appreciate any tips anyone has; (or if your own experience >> tells you I shouldn't be attempting this, let me know too). >> > > > Loosen spindle nut FIRST (wheels on the ground, tranny in first gear, > parking brake on). Chisel back the locking tab on the nut before loosening > the nut. If the shafts are original, you should be able to loosen it with > a 2 foot cheater pipe on your breaker bar. If some clown had the shafts > out before and used an impact wrench to put the spindle nut back on, it > may be over torqued. If that is the case, you will need a 5 foot cheater > pipe on your breaker bar. Remember... with a big enough lever and a sturdy > fulcrum, you too can move the Earth! > > Loosen the nut so it is flush with the end of the shaft. Bang on it a bit > with a hammer (steel hammer) to get the shaft moving out of the hub a > little bit. Look close between bangs to see if the shaft is moving inward > toward the car. Now jack up the car and remove the wheels etc.. /never/ use a steel hammer on bearings!!! > > > >>. drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a >>square-drive >> wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? >> > > > The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I forget > if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. > > > >>. remove damper fork. > > > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% sure > that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower control > arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In North > America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want to twist > off the head of the bolt. The inner joint is always disassembled, and the > shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled through the fork. It is a > little messy, and a pain in the ass, but it is MUCH easier (and CHEAPER) > than cutting out the lower control arms with a torch and buying new lower > control arms! well, the official way is to remove the fork. i luckily live in california and can take the fork off my 89 no problems whatsoever. sure makes life easier. but this is all academic - the op only need pop the lower swivel to have enough room to get the driveshaft out. > > Cleanliness is next to godly. Be careful not to contaminate your inner > joint guts with dirt! > > You will need to get two new inner joint large boot clamps before you > start the job. Maybe you were lucky and the CV joint rebuilder put an > extra clamp into the box for you! > > > >>Question: how difficult? There are 2 bolts - are >> they likely to be seized or rusted together? >> > > > If the car has been driven in the snow (where salt is used on the road), > the lower fork bolt WILL BE SEIZED. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOLT. SEE ABOVE. > > > >>. remove knuckle-to-lower arm castle nut, and separate with 2-arm gear >> puller. Any problems/tips here I should be aware of? >> > > > Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. BUT... BUT... only use ONE > TINE of the ball joint fork so that the rubber boot on the ball joint is > not damaged. Slip ONE TINE of the fork in between the control arm and the > knuckle (not the side closest to the brake rotor, but the other side which > is close to the engine). Loosen the castle nut, do not remove it yet. > Whack your pickle fork and it will pop the tapered ball joint stud out, > without damaging the rubber boot. Now remove the castle nut. If you don't > have a ball joint fork, a nice big, fat, rampy cold chisel will work just > as well in the same manner as above. Don't piss around with a puller. i completely disagree. what you're suggesting is both bad for the car and dangerous for theoperator. use the proper tool. it's not expensive and is /way/ safer. not to mention the cost savings of not fixing a screwed up swivel or boot. > > >>. pull knuckle outward, removing draveshaft outboard joint from knuckle >> with a plastic hammer. Q: Can it be stuck to where it just won't come >> out? If so, how best to get it out... > > > See above re: now jack up the car. Use a regular steel hammer. It has more > weight behind it and the drive shaft steel is really tough. It takes a lot > of muscle and some real big time hammering to damage that steel. I've > whacked out those shafts and didn't even mark the steel! then you weren't hitting very hard and got real lucky. when those things get damaged, they get /real/ expensive, not to mention very inconvenient. > > > >>. pry out the inboard driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver (forcing inner >> set ring past inner groove in differential); Q: Does it always just 'pop >> right out'? I'd hate to get stuck at this point! > > > If you have gotten this far, that will be a piece of cake. This is the > easy part! If your screwdriver has good "purchase" and good leverage > (moving the earth again!) it will POP! > > > >>On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is getting >>the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to properly seat >>within the differential. Has anyone experience special problems with this >>task? > > > A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! Put > the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it in with > the hammer. You will feel it seat. no!!! /never/ hammer them in. they should pop in with hand pressure. if they don't, they're not seated right. sometimes a little grease on the retaining ring helps keep it centered so it goes in first time. hammering brinells the d/s bearings and the diff bearings. don't do it. > > > M.A. Stewart (don't email cf005... sorry...elm filter bounces all incoming > email!) > > > >>I guess what I'm looking for is a lot of people to say, Hey - it'll be a >>breeze - you can do it! If I could afford to have my car towed, I would dive >>right in and just do it, but I'm really on the edge right now, so just >>maximizing my chances of getting these rebuilds in with as few problems as >>possible :) >> >>Any help/tips/sharing-of-experiences greatly appreciated. >>-ed >> >> > > > |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
M.A. Stewart wrote:
> "glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: > >>Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that doesn't >>need constant repairs, because my only car needs constant repairs, thus >>keeping me too poor to get a car that... you know. >> >>Anyway, my '86 Honda Accord DX (manual trans, 155000 miles) might get me >>another year's service if I can just get the CV joints fixed, which I will >>be attempting this week. Got rebuilt axles on eBay (great price, no core >>bother, but always a gamble, of course) and plan to put them in myself in a >>few days, and wanted to ask if anyone has specific advice on the job. >> >>I've read all the horror stories on the web, most to do with rust-welded >>spindle nuts, which I don't think will be a factor as I don't live in the >>mid-west (the 'rust belt'). The job is fairly simple, composed of the steps: >> >>. loosen wheel lug nuts, raise on jack stands, remove spindle nut. >> I plan to use WD-40 or some other penetrating oil on the spindle >> nut to help, locking the wheel with a pry bar while using a breaker >> bar (with pipe extension if necessary) to loosen the spindle nut, >> but would appreciate any tips anyone has; (or if your own experience >> tells you I shouldn't be attempting this, let me know too). >> > > > Loosen spindle nut FIRST (wheels on the ground, tranny in first gear, > parking brake on). Chisel back the locking tab on the nut before loosening > the nut. If the shafts are original, you should be able to loosen it with > a 2 foot cheater pipe on your breaker bar. If some clown had the shafts > out before and used an impact wrench to put the spindle nut back on, it > may be over torqued. If that is the case, you will need a 5 foot cheater > pipe on your breaker bar. Remember... with a big enough lever and a sturdy > fulcrum, you too can move the Earth! > > Loosen the nut so it is flush with the end of the shaft. Bang on it a bit > with a hammer (steel hammer) to get the shaft moving out of the hub a > little bit. Look close between bangs to see if the shaft is moving inward > toward the car. Now jack up the car and remove the wheels etc.. /never/ use a steel hammer on bearings!!! > > > >>. drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a >>square-drive >> wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? >> > > > The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I forget > if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. > > > >>. remove damper fork. > > > No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% sure > that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower control > arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In North > America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want to twist > off the head of the bolt. The inner joint is always disassembled, and the > shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled through the fork. It is a > little messy, and a pain in the ass, but it is MUCH easier (and CHEAPER) > than cutting out the lower control arms with a torch and buying new lower > control arms! well, the official way is to remove the fork. i luckily live in california and can take the fork off my 89 no problems whatsoever. sure makes life easier. but this is all academic - the op only need pop the lower swivel to have enough room to get the driveshaft out. > > Cleanliness is next to godly. Be careful not to contaminate your inner > joint guts with dirt! > > You will need to get two new inner joint large boot clamps before you > start the job. Maybe you were lucky and the CV joint rebuilder put an > extra clamp into the box for you! > > > >>Question: how difficult? There are 2 bolts - are >> they likely to be seized or rusted together? >> > > > If the car has been driven in the snow (where salt is used on the road), > the lower fork bolt WILL BE SEIZED. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOLT. SEE ABOVE. > > > >>. remove knuckle-to-lower arm castle nut, and separate with 2-arm gear >> puller. Any problems/tips here I should be aware of? >> > > > Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. BUT... BUT... only use ONE > TINE of the ball joint fork so that the rubber boot on the ball joint is > not damaged. Slip ONE TINE of the fork in between the control arm and the > knuckle (not the side closest to the brake rotor, but the other side which > is close to the engine). Loosen the castle nut, do not remove it yet. > Whack your pickle fork and it will pop the tapered ball joint stud out, > without damaging the rubber boot. Now remove the castle nut. If you don't > have a ball joint fork, a nice big, fat, rampy cold chisel will work just > as well in the same manner as above. Don't piss around with a puller. i completely disagree. what you're suggesting is both bad for the car and dangerous for theoperator. use the proper tool. it's not expensive and is /way/ safer. not to mention the cost savings of not fixing a screwed up swivel or boot. > > >>. pull knuckle outward, removing draveshaft outboard joint from knuckle >> with a plastic hammer. Q: Can it be stuck to where it just won't come >> out? If so, how best to get it out... > > > See above re: now jack up the car. Use a regular steel hammer. It has more > weight behind it and the drive shaft steel is really tough. It takes a lot > of muscle and some real big time hammering to damage that steel. I've > whacked out those shafts and didn't even mark the steel! then you weren't hitting very hard and got real lucky. when those things get damaged, they get /real/ expensive, not to mention very inconvenient. > > > >>. pry out the inboard driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver (forcing inner >> set ring past inner groove in differential); Q: Does it always just 'pop >> right out'? I'd hate to get stuck at this point! > > > If you have gotten this far, that will be a piece of cake. This is the > easy part! If your screwdriver has good "purchase" and good leverage > (moving the earth again!) it will POP! > > > >>On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is getting >>the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to properly seat >>within the differential. Has anyone experience special problems with this >>task? > > > A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! Put > the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it in with > the hammer. You will feel it seat. no!!! /never/ hammer them in. they should pop in with hand pressure. if they don't, they're not seated right. sometimes a little grease on the retaining ring helps keep it centered so it goes in first time. hammering brinells the d/s bearings and the diff bearings. don't do it. > > > M.A. Stewart (don't email cf005... sorry...elm filter bounces all incoming > email!) > > > >>I guess what I'm looking for is a lot of people to say, Hey - it'll be a >>breeze - you can do it! If I could afford to have my car towed, I would dive >>right in and just do it, but I'm really on the edge right now, so just >>maximizing my chances of getting these rebuilds in with as few problems as >>possible :) >> >>Any help/tips/sharing-of-experiences greatly appreciated. >>-ed >> >> > > > |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"TeGGeR®" (tegger@tegger.c0m) writes: > cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in > news:djbl0k$p5$1@theodyn.ncf.ca: > >> >> "glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: > > > <snip good advice> > > >> >>> . drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a >>> square-drive >>> wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? >>> >> >> The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I >> forget if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. > > > > It's 3/8". Probably have to hammer the square into the recess, otherwise it > won't go in far enough and will round off the hole. > > > >> >> >>> . remove damper fork. >> >> No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% >> sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower >> control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In >> North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want >> to twist off the head of the bolt. > > > > That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean all) in > the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five bolts > came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other four > succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ > > I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw the > bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they wouldn't come > loose. > Anyone who owns a 1986 to 1989 Accord in Canada does not want to touch the lower damper fork bolt to do a drive shaft job. The drive shaft inner joint needs to be disassembled on the car and the shaft (minus the inboard joint and needle bearing rollers) extracted through the fork and lower control arm. The spider (and rubber boot) can be left on the shaft. The spider can be easily puzzled through damper fork and control arm. > > >> The inner joint is always >> disassembled, and the shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled >> through the fork. > > > > Couldn't you just pry the inner joint away from the diff casing, or would > that damage something? > I don't follow you on the above question. His job was to replace the drive shafts. With the damper fork attached to the lower control arm, the complete drive shaft won't fit through the opening on the 1986/1989 Accords. He does not want to try and remove the fork from the control arm so that he can remove/install the complete drive shaft. Halloween is close. That is enough of a nightmare for anyone at this time of year. He doesn't need the nightmare of a seized fork bolt and subsequent bushing replacement. I don't think he has a nice fully equipped shop to work in. > > <snip> > > >>> >> >> Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. > > > > Or you can rent one of these puppies: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints > > > > <snip> > > > >>> On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is >>> getting the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to >>> properly seat within the differential. Has anyone experience special >>> problems with this task? >> >> A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! >> Put the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it >> in with the hammer. You will feel it seat. > > > > Exactly where would you knock? > On the end of the wood. Insert the splined part of the inner joint into the diff.. Push hard. Knock it the rest of the way in with the hammer and chunk of wood to seat it. Not much hammer force is needed. The wood is bearing on the inner joint. The rag and the wood prevent damage to the rubber boot. I like to put a little bit wheel bearing grease on the spring clip so as to suspend the clip concentrically to the center of the shaft (splined stub of the inner joint). It gives even compression all the way around the clip as it engages the side gear taper. > I'm starting to get a vibration on acceleration. Lay out the details of the vibrations. We can only assume that it is not the Beach Boys type of vibrations :-> > I suspect my inner joints, > but my mechanic says they're still tight. (Still? After 252,800 miles?) My understanding is that when shafts are rebuilt, the inner joints aren't even touched. No new spiders, snap rings, needle bearings etc.....nada. New boots, yes... maybe a cleaning and new grease. Everything usually looks good for them on the inner joints... so they don't do any work on them. > > Next spring all the bushings are getting replaced, along with the tires > (which are worn), and the engine mounts. Re the mount replacement. Check to see if the motor mounts have a torque sequence for your car. They do for a 1986/1989 Accord. > If none of that helps, I'm going > to replace the driveshafts. > Ahh... here's a challenge for you... replace the lower control arm bushings with hand tools only!... no cheating, no friendly machine shop with a press, no acetylene torch. Think "hone the holes to fit bushings". Think brake cylinder hone... vernier caliper (or inside mike)... micrometer... what's the best interference fit so I can whack those suckers in with my $2.99 Kmart carpenter hammer! Remember the machinist credo... "it is much easier to remove metal than it is to put metal back on" M.A. Stewart (please don't email cf005... elm spam filter bounces all incoming email) > > > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: axle R&R on '86 Honda Accord
"TeGGeR®" (tegger@tegger.c0m) writes: > cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in > news:djbl0k$p5$1@theodyn.ncf.ca: > >> >> "glenn" (lunaqua@gmail.com) writes: > > > <snip good advice> > > >> >>> . drain tranny oil. Only question I have here is that it takes a >>> square-drive >>> wrench - does anyone know offhand what the size is? >>> >> >> The square end of a socket extension fits nice and does the job. I >> forget if it is the 3/8 inch or the 1/2 inch extension that fits. > > > > It's 3/8". Probably have to hammer the square into the recess, otherwise it > won't go in far enough and will round off the hole. > > > >> >> >>> . remove damper fork. >> >> No... NO.... N O ! ! ! ! DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK! Unless you are 100% >> sure that the bolt which goes through the rubber bushing on the lower >> control arm is NOT SEIZED... do not touch it! And I mean 100% sure! In >> North America where it snows, that bolt will be seized. You don't want >> to twist off the head of the bolt. > > > > That's interesting. I just replaced all the bushings (and I do mean all) in > the rear suspension of my '91 Integra. I live in Canada. All but five bolts > came off with hand-tools. One bolt needed to be cut off. The other four > succumbed to the violence of a machine shop's air wrench. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/old-bushings/ > > I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to saw the > bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if they wouldn't come > loose. > Anyone who owns a 1986 to 1989 Accord in Canada does not want to touch the lower damper fork bolt to do a drive shaft job. The drive shaft inner joint needs to be disassembled on the car and the shaft (minus the inboard joint and needle bearing rollers) extracted through the fork and lower control arm. The spider (and rubber boot) can be left on the shaft. The spider can be easily puzzled through damper fork and control arm. > > >> The inner joint is always >> disassembled, and the shaft (minus the needle bearings) is puzzled >> through the fork. > > > > Couldn't you just pry the inner joint away from the diff casing, or would > that damage something? > I don't follow you on the above question. His job was to replace the drive shafts. With the damper fork attached to the lower control arm, the complete drive shaft won't fit through the opening on the 1986/1989 Accords. He does not want to try and remove the fork from the control arm so that he can remove/install the complete drive shaft. Halloween is close. That is enough of a nightmare for anyone at this time of year. He doesn't need the nightmare of a seized fork bolt and subsequent bushing replacement. I don't think he has a nice fully equipped shop to work in. > > <snip> > > >>> >> >> Don't use the puller. Use a ball joint fork. > > > > Or you can rent one of these puppies: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints > > > > <snip> > > > >>> On putting in the rebuilt axles, the only thing that worries me is >>> getting the inner driveshaft assembly, with its new set ring, to >>> properly seat within the differential. Has anyone experience special >>> problems with this task? >> >> A rag, a two by four, and your hammer will knock the suckers right in! >> Put the rag between the rubber boot and the two by four then knock it >> in with the hammer. You will feel it seat. > > > > Exactly where would you knock? > On the end of the wood. Insert the splined part of the inner joint into the diff.. Push hard. Knock it the rest of the way in with the hammer and chunk of wood to seat it. Not much hammer force is needed. The wood is bearing on the inner joint. The rag and the wood prevent damage to the rubber boot. I like to put a little bit wheel bearing grease on the spring clip so as to suspend the clip concentrically to the center of the shaft (splined stub of the inner joint). It gives even compression all the way around the clip as it engages the side gear taper. > I'm starting to get a vibration on acceleration. Lay out the details of the vibrations. We can only assume that it is not the Beach Boys type of vibrations :-> > I suspect my inner joints, > but my mechanic says they're still tight. (Still? After 252,800 miles?) My understanding is that when shafts are rebuilt, the inner joints aren't even touched. No new spiders, snap rings, needle bearings etc.....nada. New boots, yes... maybe a cleaning and new grease. Everything usually looks good for them on the inner joints... so they don't do any work on them. > > Next spring all the bushings are getting replaced, along with the tires > (which are worn), and the engine mounts. Re the mount replacement. Check to see if the motor mounts have a torque sequence for your car. They do for a 1986/1989 Accord. > If none of that helps, I'm going > to replace the driveshafts. > Ahh... here's a challenge for you... replace the lower control arm bushings with hand tools only!... no cheating, no friendly machine shop with a press, no acetylene torch. Think "hone the holes to fit bushings". Think brake cylinder hone... vernier caliper (or inside mike)... micrometer... what's the best interference fit so I can whack those suckers in with my $2.99 Kmart carpenter hammer! Remember the machinist credo... "it is much easier to remove metal than it is to put metal back on" M.A. Stewart (please don't email cf005... elm spam filter bounces all incoming email) > > > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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