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Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the
ball joint stud? They currently move as one. Please help as soon as possible. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? > They currently move as one. The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with solvent to remove any grease. Stewart DIBBS |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? > They currently move as one. The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with solvent to remove any grease. Stewart DIBBS |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? > They currently move as one. The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with solvent to remove any grease. Stewart DIBBS |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Stewart DIBBS wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message > news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > >>Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? >>They currently move as one. > > > The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control > arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it > again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to > help. > > GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the > joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright > hole with solvent to remove any grease. > > Stewart DIBBS > > what he said... |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Stewart DIBBS wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message > news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > >>Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? >>They currently move as one. > > > The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control > arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it > again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to > help. > > GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the > joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright > hole with solvent to remove any grease. > > Stewart DIBBS > > what he said... |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Stewart DIBBS wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message > news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > >>Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? >>They currently move as one. > > > The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack under the control > arm and lift enough to put the weight of the car on the taper to jam it > again. You may need to give the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to > help. > > GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts turning again, give the > joint a whack again to lock it. Once its out, clean the taper and upright > hole with solvent to remove any grease. > > Stewart DIBBS > > what he said... |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my
car. Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without disassembling the ball joint, after all. "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote > "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. > > The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack > under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of > the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give > the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. > > GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts > turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. > Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with > solvent to remove any grease. > > Stewart DIBBS > |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my
car. Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without disassembling the ball joint, after all. "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote > "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. > > The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack > under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of > the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give > the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. > > GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts > turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. > Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with > solvent to remove any grease. > > Stewart DIBBS > |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my
car. Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without disassembling the ball joint, after all. "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote > "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. > > The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack > under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of > the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give > the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. > > GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts > turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. > Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with > solvent to remove any grease. > > Stewart DIBBS > |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? > They currently move as one. > > Please help as soon as possible. > Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... as I've found :-( Mike |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? > They currently move as one. > > Please help as soon as possible. > Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... as I've found :-( Mike |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Njuag.3218$y4.2975@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the ball joint stud? > They currently move as one. > > Please help as soon as possible. > Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... as I've found :-( Mike |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> Please help as soon as possible. >> > Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before > putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... > as I've found :-( That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of earlier. :-) Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling to prevent the stud from turning. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> Please help as soon as possible. >> > Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before > putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... > as I've found :-( That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of earlier. :-) Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling to prevent the stud from turning. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> Please help as soon as possible. >> > Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before > putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... > as I've found :-( That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of earlier. :-) Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling to prevent the stud from turning. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Elle wrote:
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >[quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... >> as I've found :-( > >That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of >earlier. :-) > >Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time >with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted >notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that >thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling >to prevent the stud from turning. Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison :) -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200605/1 |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Elle wrote:
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >[quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... >> as I've found :-( > >That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of >earlier. :-) > >Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time >with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted >notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that >thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling >to prevent the stud from turning. Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison :) -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200605/1 |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Elle wrote:
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >[quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... >> as I've found :-( > >That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of >earlier. :-) > >Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time >with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted >notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that >thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling >to prevent the stud from turning. Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison :) -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200605/1 |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:Hiwag.5762$u4.5425@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net: > Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my > car. > > Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without > disassembling the ball joint, after all. > > "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack >> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of >> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give >> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. >> >> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts >> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. >> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with >> solvent to remove any grease. >> >> Stewart DIBBS >> > > > According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of replacing the BJ in the original control arm? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:Hiwag.5762$u4.5425@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net: > Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my > car. > > Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without > disassembling the ball joint, after all. > > "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack >> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of >> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give >> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. >> >> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts >> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. >> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with >> solvent to remove any grease. >> >> Stewart DIBBS >> > > > According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of replacing the BJ in the original control arm? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:Hiwag.5762$u4.5425@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net: > Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my > car. > > Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without > disassembling the ball joint, after all. > > "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack >> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of >> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give >> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. >> >> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts >> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. >> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with >> solvent to remove any grease. >> >> Stewart DIBBS >> > > > According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of replacing the BJ in the original control arm? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not > replaceable,and the > entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any > method of > replacing the BJ in the original control arm? I should have clarified that my post above concerns the lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to install new lower control arm bushings within the next week (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not > replaceable,and the > entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any > method of > replacing the BJ in the original control arm? I should have clarified that my post above concerns the lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to install new lower control arm bushings within the next week (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not > replaceable,and the > entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any > method of > replacing the BJ in the original control arm? I should have clarified that my post above concerns the lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to install new lower control arm bushings within the next week (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:vkHag.163$SX5.41@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net: > "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >> replaceable,and the >> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any >> method of >> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? > > I should have clarified that my post above concerns the > lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and > ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic > contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX > manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball > joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... > > Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers might know. > I don't plan to > replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to > install new lower control arm bushings within the next week > (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness > from pass. side to dr. side. Have you tried two new springs yet? ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that failed. > I need to disconnect the lower > ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble > removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while > thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, > yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt > in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can > drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. > > > -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:vkHag.163$SX5.41@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net: > "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >> replaceable,and the >> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any >> method of >> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? > > I should have clarified that my post above concerns the > lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and > ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic > contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX > manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball > joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... > > Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers might know. > I don't plan to > replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to > install new lower control arm bushings within the next week > (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness > from pass. side to dr. side. Have you tried two new springs yet? ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that failed. > I need to disconnect the lower > ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble > removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while > thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, > yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt > in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can > drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. > > > -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:vkHag.163$SX5.41@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net: > "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >> replaceable,and the >> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any >> method of >> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? > > I should have clarified that my post above concerns the > lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and > ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic > contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX > manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball > joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... > > Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers might know. > I don't plan to > replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to > install new lower control arm bushings within the next week > (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness > from pass. side to dr. side. Have you tried two new springs yet? ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that failed. > I need to disconnect the lower > ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble > removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while > thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, > yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt > in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can > drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. > > > -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Jim Yanik wrote:
> > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to > a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-; > you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. > > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that > upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. > > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers > might know. I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy. If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit. Eric |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Jim Yanik wrote:
> > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to > a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-; > you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. > > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that > upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. > > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers > might know. I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy. If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit. Eric |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Jim Yanik wrote:
> > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to > a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-; > you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. > > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that > upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. > > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers > might know. I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy. If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit. Eric |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >>> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >>> replaceable,and the >>> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there >>> any >>> method of >>> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? >> >> I should have clarified that my post above concerns the >> lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and >> ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my >> Civic >> contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX >> manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball >> joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... >> >> Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. > > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes > manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle > and take to to a > shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not > replaceable-;you > must replace the whole upper control wishbone. All that's the same for my 91 Civic, except the service manual (at least for the Civic CRX) describes the process for replacing the lower BJ. Three special tools are listed. Maybe the special tools are one reason why Haynes directs people to a shop. > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for > replacing that upper > BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. My recollection from my reading is that it's still customary (or mandatory) to replace the whole upper arm to get a new upper ball joint. > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you > or other readers > might know. > > >> I don't plan to >> replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to >> install new lower control arm bushings within the next >> week >> (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's >> un-levelness >> from pass. side to dr. side. > > > Have you tried two new springs yet? > ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height > springs;evidently that > failed. Yes to all. Here are the differences in car heights, right and left sides, through my investigation: Before doing anything: 3/4-inch Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch New springs: 1/2-inch. The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little lower, overall, with the new springs. I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at this point. I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel wells here. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >>> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >>> replaceable,and the >>> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there >>> any >>> method of >>> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? >> >> I should have clarified that my post above concerns the >> lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and >> ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my >> Civic >> contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX >> manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball >> joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... >> >> Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. > > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes > manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle > and take to to a > shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not > replaceable-;you > must replace the whole upper control wishbone. All that's the same for my 91 Civic, except the service manual (at least for the Civic CRX) describes the process for replacing the lower BJ. Three special tools are listed. Maybe the special tools are one reason why Haynes directs people to a shop. > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for > replacing that upper > BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. My recollection from my reading is that it's still customary (or mandatory) to replace the whole upper arm to get a new upper ball joint. > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you > or other readers > might know. > > >> I don't plan to >> replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to >> install new lower control arm bushings within the next >> week >> (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's >> un-levelness >> from pass. side to dr. side. > > > Have you tried two new springs yet? > ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height > springs;evidently that > failed. Yes to all. Here are the differences in car heights, right and left sides, through my investigation: Before doing anything: 3/4-inch Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch New springs: 1/2-inch. The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little lower, overall, with the new springs. I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at this point. I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel wells here. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >>> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >>> replaceable,and the >>> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there >>> any >>> method of >>> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? >> >> I should have clarified that my post above concerns the >> lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and >> ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my >> Civic >> contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX >> manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball >> joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... >> >> Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. > > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes > manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle > and take to to a > shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not > replaceable-;you > must replace the whole upper control wishbone. All that's the same for my 91 Civic, except the service manual (at least for the Civic CRX) describes the process for replacing the lower BJ. Three special tools are listed. Maybe the special tools are one reason why Haynes directs people to a shop. > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for > replacing that upper > BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. My recollection from my reading is that it's still customary (or mandatory) to replace the whole upper arm to get a new upper ball joint. > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you > or other readers > might know. > > >> I don't plan to >> replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to >> install new lower control arm bushings within the next >> week >> (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's >> un-levelness >> from pass. side to dr. side. > > > Have you tried two new springs yet? > ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height > springs;evidently that > failed. Yes to all. Here are the differences in car heights, right and left sides, through my investigation: Before doing anything: 3/4-inch Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch New springs: 1/2-inch. The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little lower, overall, with the new springs. I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at this point. I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel wells here. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:sfSag.443$SX5.305@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net: > > Before doing anything: 3/4-inch > Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch > New springs: 1/2-inch. > > The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of > 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. > > The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter > than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little > lower, overall, with the new springs. > > I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at > this point. > > I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within > 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at all for ride height. My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to passenger's side. When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" difference (both front springs were replaced about 9 years ago). > > I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel > wells here. > > To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron the wheel well to the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces the tire as a variable. You must also be certain that the ground is actually level, and you'd be surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. When I check, I jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the tires with old books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:sfSag.443$SX5.305@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net: > > Before doing anything: 3/4-inch > Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch > New springs: 1/2-inch. > > The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of > 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. > > The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter > than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little > lower, overall, with the new springs. > > I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at > this point. > > I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within > 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at all for ride height. My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to passenger's side. When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" difference (both front springs were replaced about 9 years ago). > > I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel > wells here. > > To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron the wheel well to the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces the tire as a variable. You must also be certain that the ground is actually level, and you'd be surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. When I check, I jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the tires with old books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:sfSag.443$SX5.305@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net: > > Before doing anything: 3/4-inch > Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch > New springs: 1/2-inch. > > The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of > 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. > > The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter > than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little > lower, overall, with the new springs. > > I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at > this point. > > I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within > 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at all for ride height. My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to passenger's side. When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" difference (both front springs were replaced about 9 years ago). > > I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel > wells here. > > To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron the wheel well to the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces the tire as a variable. You must also be certain that the ground is actually level, and you'd be surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. When I check, I jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the tires with old books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch >> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch >> New springs: 1/2-inch. >> >> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of >> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. >> >> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little >> shorter >> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little >> lower, overall, with the new springs. >> >> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference >> at >> this point. >> >> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within >> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) > > > > The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at > all for ride > height. > > My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to > passenger's side. > When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" > difference (both > front springs were replaced about 9 years ago). > > > >> >> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front >> wheel >> wells here. >> >> > > > To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron > the wheel well to > the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces > the tire as a > variable. > > You must also be certain that the ground is actually > level, and you'd be > surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. > When I check, I > jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the > tires with old > books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car. Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure, for one thing. Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling. At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm, using a jack beneath it. About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off without damaging the stud threads. So it goes. Very discouraging... |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch >> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch >> New springs: 1/2-inch. >> >> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of >> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. >> >> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little >> shorter >> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little >> lower, overall, with the new springs. >> >> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference >> at >> this point. >> >> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within >> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) > > > > The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at > all for ride > height. > > My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to > passenger's side. > When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" > difference (both > front springs were replaced about 9 years ago). > > > >> >> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front >> wheel >> wells here. >> >> > > > To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron > the wheel well to > the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces > the tire as a > variable. > > You must also be certain that the ground is actually > level, and you'd be > surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. > When I check, I > jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the > tires with old > books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car. Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure, for one thing. Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling. At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm, using a jack beneath it. About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off without damaging the stud threads. So it goes. Very discouraging... |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch >> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch >> New springs: 1/2-inch. >> >> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of >> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here. >> >> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little >> shorter >> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little >> lower, overall, with the new springs. >> >> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference >> at >> this point. >> >> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within >> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.) > > > > The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at > all for ride > height. > > My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to > passenger's side. > When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" > difference (both > front springs were replaced about 9 years ago). > > > >> >> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front >> wheel >> wells here. >> >> > > > To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron > the wheel well to > the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces > the tire as a > variable. > > You must also be certain that the ground is actually > level, and you'd be > surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. > When I check, I > jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the > tires with old > books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car. Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure, for one thing. Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling. At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm, using a jack beneath it. About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off without damaging the stud threads. So it goes. Very discouraging... |
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