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Battery draining
I posted on the Volvo forum, but its not as active
as this one, so I thought I would post here too. Recent rebuild on this 85 Volvo 240 DL, 300000kms. Auto Trannie, B230F motor. Sedan. 3 spd trannie. The battery goes dead after about 10 hours of not running. Put my multimeter on it, when running the voltage is 14 volts, which rules out the alternator. When not running, I can observe the voltage dropping from 12.75 to about 12.30 or so. It may go lower, but this occured over about a minute or so after the car was stopped. Amperage drawn when the car is not running is 0.8 to 0.87 Amps, which shouldn't be enough to drain the battery in 10 hours. This was done by removing the positive battery cable, and putting my multimeter between the cable and the positive post. The battery is brand new, and I realize it could be a dud. However, are there any other things I should be checking? Cables appear to be in good shape. The clamps on the posts are good too. Thanks t |
Re: Battery draining
"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message news:621383ac0589c80e3a43ffb0c037d500@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > I posted on the Volvo forum, but its not as active > as this one, so I thought I would post here too. > > Recent rebuild on this 85 Volvo 240 DL, > 300000kms. Auto Trannie, B230F motor. Sedan. 3 spd trannie. > > The battery goes dead after about 10 hours of not running. Put my > multimeter on it, when running the voltage is 14 volts, which rules out > the alternator. When not running, I can observe > the voltage dropping from 12.75 to about 12.30 > or so. It may go lower, but this occured over > about a minute or so after the car was stopped. > > Amperage drawn when the car is not running is > 0.8 to 0.87 Amps, which shouldn't be enough to drain the battery in 10 > hours. This was done > by removing the positive battery cable, and > putting my multimeter between the cable and > the positive post. > > The battery is brand new, and I realize it could > be a dud. However, are there any other things > I should be checking? Cables appear to be in good > shape. The clamps on the posts are good too. > > Thanks Well, this is a honda group so this post really doesn't belong here but there's no sense leaving you stranded since you are a regular poster, I think. I've owned a volvo and know a little here and there about that car. How about your keep the multimeter in line and pull one fuse at a time to see what's causing the problem? One fuse should make it drop to near zero -- It will at least narrow it down because the problem could be anywhere. It is not a dead short so most likely something is on that is normally off. (how about the radio or final amplifier? - they are notorious for doing weird things like this). 800 mA/hr is not normal and may get your battery drained sufficiently enough to not start the next day. Remco |
Re: Battery draining
"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message news:621383ac0589c80e3a43ffb0c037d500@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > I posted on the Volvo forum, but its not as active > as this one, so I thought I would post here too. > > Recent rebuild on this 85 Volvo 240 DL, > 300000kms. Auto Trannie, B230F motor. Sedan. 3 spd trannie. > > The battery goes dead after about 10 hours of not running. Put my > multimeter on it, when running the voltage is 14 volts, which rules out > the alternator. When not running, I can observe > the voltage dropping from 12.75 to about 12.30 > or so. It may go lower, but this occured over > about a minute or so after the car was stopped. > > Amperage drawn when the car is not running is > 0.8 to 0.87 Amps, which shouldn't be enough to drain the battery in 10 > hours. This was done > by removing the positive battery cable, and > putting my multimeter between the cable and > the positive post. > > The battery is brand new, and I realize it could > be a dud. However, are there any other things > I should be checking? Cables appear to be in good > shape. The clamps on the posts are good too. > > Thanks Well, this is a honda group so this post really doesn't belong here but there's no sense leaving you stranded since you are a regular poster, I think. I've owned a volvo and know a little here and there about that car. How about your keep the multimeter in line and pull one fuse at a time to see what's causing the problem? One fuse should make it drop to near zero -- It will at least narrow it down because the problem could be anywhere. It is not a dead short so most likely something is on that is normally off. (how about the radio or final amplifier? - they are notorious for doing weird things like this). 800 mA/hr is not normal and may get your battery drained sufficiently enough to not start the next day. Remco |
Re: Battery draining
"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message
news:621383ac0589c80e3a43ffb0c037d500@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I posted on the Volvo forum, but its not as active > as this one, so I thought I would post here too. > > Recent rebuild on this 85 Volvo 240 DL, > 300000kms. Auto Trannie, B230F motor. Sedan. 3 spd trannie. > > The battery goes dead after about 10 hours of not running. Put my > multimeter on it, when running the voltage is 14 volts, which rules out > the alternator. When not running, I can observe > the voltage dropping from 12.75 to about 12.30 > or so. It may go lower, but this occured over > about a minute or so after the car was stopped. > > Amperage drawn when the car is not running is > 0.8 to 0.87 Amps, which shouldn't be enough to drain the battery in 10 > hours. This was done > by removing the positive battery cable, and > putting my multimeter between the cable and > the positive post. > > The battery is brand new, and I realize it could > be a dud. However, are there any other things > I should be checking? Cables appear to be in good > shape. The clamps on the posts are good too. > > Thanks > t > Odd - I didn't see it on the Volvo forum (but I haven't been there this evening - maybe in half an hour). No matter - the regulars there would tell you the common sleeper here is the light inside the glove box. You can remove the bulb to test that theory. If that fixes it, finagle with the door to get it working right. Mike |
Re: Battery draining
"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message
news:621383ac0589c80e3a43ffb0c037d500@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I posted on the Volvo forum, but its not as active > as this one, so I thought I would post here too. > > Recent rebuild on this 85 Volvo 240 DL, > 300000kms. Auto Trannie, B230F motor. Sedan. 3 spd trannie. > > The battery goes dead after about 10 hours of not running. Put my > multimeter on it, when running the voltage is 14 volts, which rules out > the alternator. When not running, I can observe > the voltage dropping from 12.75 to about 12.30 > or so. It may go lower, but this occured over > about a minute or so after the car was stopped. > > Amperage drawn when the car is not running is > 0.8 to 0.87 Amps, which shouldn't be enough to drain the battery in 10 > hours. This was done > by removing the positive battery cable, and > putting my multimeter between the cable and > the positive post. > > The battery is brand new, and I realize it could > be a dud. However, are there any other things > I should be checking? Cables appear to be in good > shape. The clamps on the posts are good too. > > Thanks > t > Odd - I didn't see it on the Volvo forum (but I haven't been there this evening - maybe in half an hour). No matter - the regulars there would tell you the common sleeper here is the light inside the glove box. You can remove the bulb to test that theory. If that fixes it, finagle with the door to get it working right. Mike |
Re: Battery draining
Thanks guys.
After taking all of your advice, we found nuthin! BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire coming directly off of the positive terminal of the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm thinking my problem is there. Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes to the relay, where would it go from there? t |
Re: Battery draining
Thanks guys.
After taking all of your advice, we found nuthin! BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire coming directly off of the positive terminal of the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm thinking my problem is there. Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes to the relay, where would it go from there? t |
Re: Battery draining
"remco" <whybcuzREMOVE@THISyahoo.com> wrote in
news:4wvie.12149$yx.9850@fe08.lga: > Well, this is a honda group so this post really doesn't belong here Occasional OT posts occur in other groups as well. Typically the poster has not received a satisfactory answer in the proper group for his vehicle and is posting in an OT group as a last resort. An excellent group for posting fairly general questions (such as this) is rec.autos.tech. There are quite a number of very knowledgeable posters there, some of whom would be perfect to ask this question of. > but there's no sense leaving you stranded since you are a regular > poster, I think. I've owned a volvo and know a little here and there > about that car. > > How about your keep the multimeter in line and pull one fuse at a time > to see what's causing the problem? One fuse should make it drop to > near zero That's the best way. An immediate drop upon pulling a fuse will reveal your culprit. Remember to pull ALL the fuses and fusible links, including any big fat ones that are bolted in (unless your culprit is flushed out early). Is your alternator fused? -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Battery draining
"remco" <whybcuzREMOVE@THISyahoo.com> wrote in
news:4wvie.12149$yx.9850@fe08.lga: > Well, this is a honda group so this post really doesn't belong here Occasional OT posts occur in other groups as well. Typically the poster has not received a satisfactory answer in the proper group for his vehicle and is posting in an OT group as a last resort. An excellent group for posting fairly general questions (such as this) is rec.autos.tech. There are quite a number of very knowledgeable posters there, some of whom would be perfect to ask this question of. > but there's no sense leaving you stranded since you are a regular > poster, I think. I've owned a volvo and know a little here and there > about that car. > > How about your keep the multimeter in line and pull one fuse at a time > to see what's causing the problem? One fuse should make it drop to > near zero That's the best way. An immediate drop upon pulling a fuse will reveal your culprit. Remember to pull ALL the fuses and fusible links, including any big fat ones that are bolted in (unless your culprit is flushed out early). Is your alternator fused? -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Battery draining
disallow wrote:
| BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire | coming directly off of the positive terminal of | the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump | relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. | | Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the | battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm | thinking my problem is there. 800mA certainly doesn't sound right for "idle current". | Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes | to the relay, where would it go from there? Don't know much (anything ;) about Volvos, but on a regular Civic it would go through the "main relay" into the ECU, which keep it at an open circuit until it wants to power the fuel pump. You wouldn't happen to have any schematics of any sort, would you? I hope your fuel pump is not running 24/7? (or at least until the battery is dead...) A quick google shows that Volvo's of that generation have problems with wire harnesses quite a bit (insulation eroding away? wtf? :) http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton/WireHarnesses.html |
Re: Battery draining
disallow wrote:
| BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire | coming directly off of the positive terminal of | the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump | relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. | | Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the | battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm | thinking my problem is there. 800mA certainly doesn't sound right for "idle current". | Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes | to the relay, where would it go from there? Don't know much (anything ;) about Volvos, but on a regular Civic it would go through the "main relay" into the ECU, which keep it at an open circuit until it wants to power the fuel pump. You wouldn't happen to have any schematics of any sort, would you? I hope your fuel pump is not running 24/7? (or at least until the battery is dead...) A quick google shows that Volvo's of that generation have problems with wire harnesses quite a bit (insulation eroding away? wtf? :) http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton/WireHarnesses.html |
Re: Battery draining
you may a stuck or fused fuel pump relay which is also a common problem
"tomb" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message news:x4Bie.18483$J12.8119@newssvr14.news.prodigy.c om... > disallow wrote: > > | BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire > | coming directly off of the positive terminal of > | the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump > | relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. > | > | Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the > | battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm > | thinking my problem is there. > > 800mA certainly doesn't sound right for "idle current". > > | Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes > | to the relay, where would it go from there? > > Don't know much (anything ;) about Volvos, but on a regular Civic it would > go through the "main relay" into the ECU, which keep it at an open circuit > until it wants to power the fuel pump. You wouldn't happen to have any > schematics of any sort, would you? > > I hope your fuel pump is not running 24/7? (or at least until the battery is > dead...) > > A quick google shows that Volvo's of that generation have problems with wire > harnesses quite a bit (insulation eroding away? wtf? :) > > http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton/WireHarnesses.html > > |
Re: Battery draining
you may a stuck or fused fuel pump relay which is also a common problem
"tomb" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message news:x4Bie.18483$J12.8119@newssvr14.news.prodigy.c om... > disallow wrote: > > | BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire > | coming directly off of the positive terminal of > | the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump > | relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. > | > | Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the > | battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm > | thinking my problem is there. > > 800mA certainly doesn't sound right for "idle current". > > | Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes > | to the relay, where would it go from there? > > Don't know much (anything ;) about Volvos, but on a regular Civic it would > go through the "main relay" into the ECU, which keep it at an open circuit > until it wants to power the fuel pump. You wouldn't happen to have any > schematics of any sort, would you? > > I hope your fuel pump is not running 24/7? (or at least until the battery is > dead...) > > A quick google shows that Volvo's of that generation have problems with wire > harnesses quite a bit (insulation eroding away? wtf? :) > > http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton/WireHarnesses.html > > |
Re: Battery draining
>
> After taking all of your advice, we found nuthin! > > BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire > coming directly off of the positive terminal of > the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump > relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. > > Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the > battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm > thinking my problem is there. > > Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes > to the relay, where would it go from there? Seems odd that they'd fuse a fuel pump with 30Amps and feed it directly off the battery since a a fuel pump doesn't take very much power to run. Power delivery (ie power drop across wires, requiring fat wires) is usually not a problem. My old volvo was an older model and don't remember if they had direct line going to the pump. What is more logical is that this fuses the alternator. An alternator is usually directly connected to the battery. It does have diodes inside that short and cause current to flow when it shouldn't. Can you follow that wire to see where it goes? Also, I'd imagine that if that fat wire and fuse indeed do feed the pump through a relay, it would most likely be connected to the contact of the relay (the switch side) -- there's no point connecting a high current wire to the coil (actuator side) of the relay as that is definitely low current. That being true, the only way that you can have any appreciable current running is if the pump is running, even with the car shut off. That relay must be driven somehow. I'd still first check to make sure that that fat wire/fuse is not connected to the alternator, though.. Remco |
Re: Battery draining
>
> After taking all of your advice, we found nuthin! > > BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire > coming directly off of the positive terminal of > the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump > relay. Its a 30 Amp fuse. > > Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the > battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm > thinking my problem is there. > > Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes > to the relay, where would it go from there? Seems odd that they'd fuse a fuel pump with 30Amps and feed it directly off the battery since a a fuel pump doesn't take very much power to run. Power delivery (ie power drop across wires, requiring fat wires) is usually not a problem. My old volvo was an older model and don't remember if they had direct line going to the pump. What is more logical is that this fuses the alternator. An alternator is usually directly connected to the battery. It does have diodes inside that short and cause current to flow when it shouldn't. Can you follow that wire to see where it goes? Also, I'd imagine that if that fat wire and fuse indeed do feed the pump through a relay, it would most likely be connected to the contact of the relay (the switch side) -- there's no point connecting a high current wire to the coil (actuator side) of the relay as that is definitely low current. That being true, the only way that you can have any appreciable current running is if the pump is running, even with the car shut off. That relay must be driven somehow. I'd still first check to make sure that that fat wire/fuse is not connected to the alternator, though.. Remco |
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