Re: Changing brake fluid ????
comcastss news groups wrote:
> You may have a point there! > I'm also concerned about the master cylinder traveling to an area that > doesn't usually get used and getting scored then leaking. I think I ran into > this problem once?... popular misconception - perhaps from the days of cast iron cylinders and crappy detroit seals. honda [nissin] use alloy cylinders and very high quality seals. they last a very long time and are not generally subject to that kind of problem. i just rebuilt my master cylinder and posted pics of the reason for the leak on 11/18 - the car's 17 years old and i doubt the brake fluid had ever been changed before i bought the car 2.5 years ago. the inside of the cylinder was perfectly clean and completely un-scored. cylinders /do/ leak, and this generally coincides with flushing the fluid in the system, but it's more commonly due to slight changes in the seal when suddenly subject to fresh fluid chemistry - it shrinks slightly. bleed the system per the book - pedal to the floor. it is essential that the cylinder withstand this action - which might be required in emergency braking. if for some reason it /does/ fail after using full cylinder travel, the cylinder needs to be replaced or reconditioned, and it's best you figure that out now rather than "test" it in the wrong circumstances. > >>> (I think I know the answer I just never have good luck bleeding brakes. >>> open valve, pump brake, close valve, repeat, repeat, repeat...........) >> That might be your problem. The sequence is to hold the brake pedal down, >> then open the bleeder valve. When you open the valve, the brake pedal >> should go all the way down. Close the valve and then have your assistant >> reapply pressure to the brake pedal. Repeat the process until you have >> clean fluid coming out of all 4 cylinders. Check your manual for the > proper >> sequence to bleed each of the wheel cylinders. Note that I like to use a >> section of clear Tygon style tubing to attach to the bleeder valves to >> direct the fluid into a waste container. Using clear tubing also >> facilitates knowing when the fluid is coming out clean and all the air is >> gone. You should also use a closed ended wrench on the bleeder valves. >> Using an open ended wrench may strip the bleeder valves as they can get >> stuck over the years and become difficult to loosen. >> >> Eric > > |
Re: Changing brake fluid ????
comcastss news groups wrote:
> You may have a point there! > I'm also concerned about the master cylinder traveling to an area that > doesn't usually get used and getting scored then leaking. I think I ran into > this problem once?... popular misconception - perhaps from the days of cast iron cylinders and crappy detroit seals. honda [nissin] use alloy cylinders and very high quality seals. they last a very long time and are not generally subject to that kind of problem. i just rebuilt my master cylinder and posted pics of the reason for the leak on 11/18 - the car's 17 years old and i doubt the brake fluid had ever been changed before i bought the car 2.5 years ago. the inside of the cylinder was perfectly clean and completely un-scored. cylinders /do/ leak, and this generally coincides with flushing the fluid in the system, but it's more commonly due to slight changes in the seal when suddenly subject to fresh fluid chemistry - it shrinks slightly. bleed the system per the book - pedal to the floor. it is essential that the cylinder withstand this action - which might be required in emergency braking. if for some reason it /does/ fail after using full cylinder travel, the cylinder needs to be replaced or reconditioned, and it's best you figure that out now rather than "test" it in the wrong circumstances. > >>> (I think I know the answer I just never have good luck bleeding brakes. >>> open valve, pump brake, close valve, repeat, repeat, repeat...........) >> That might be your problem. The sequence is to hold the brake pedal down, >> then open the bleeder valve. When you open the valve, the brake pedal >> should go all the way down. Close the valve and then have your assistant >> reapply pressure to the brake pedal. Repeat the process until you have >> clean fluid coming out of all 4 cylinders. Check your manual for the > proper >> sequence to bleed each of the wheel cylinders. Note that I like to use a >> section of clear Tygon style tubing to attach to the bleeder valves to >> direct the fluid into a waste container. Using clear tubing also >> facilitates knowing when the fluid is coming out clean and all the air is >> gone. You should also use a closed ended wrench on the bleeder valves. >> Using an open ended wrench may strip the bleeder valves as they can get >> stuck over the years and become difficult to loosen. >> >> Eric > > |
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