Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
02-20-2008, 05:36 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
E Meyer wrote:
>
>
> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>
>> E Meyer wrote:
>>
>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it in the
>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow tank, or
>>> the radiator?
>>>
>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow tank sits at
>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to around
>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a while.
>> ----------------------------
>>
>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas and
>> the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1", hot or
>> cold, summer or winter.
>>
>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from what
>> the Honda engineers designed.
>>
>> 'Curly'
>
> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different cars over
> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
---------------------
Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The
coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA
isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all.
Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold
coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because the
rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air is
forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir and when
the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as coolant it
drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add coolant up to
the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the Helms service manual
all tell the same story.
However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is shot.
'Curly'
>
>
> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>
>> E Meyer wrote:
>>
>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it in the
>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow tank, or
>>> the radiator?
>>>
>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow tank sits at
>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to around
>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a while.
>> ----------------------------
>>
>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas and
>> the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1", hot or
>> cold, summer or winter.
>>
>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from what
>> the Honda engineers designed.
>>
>> 'Curly'
>
> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different cars over
> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
---------------------
Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The
coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA
isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all.
Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold
coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because the
rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air is
forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir and when
the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as coolant it
drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add coolant up to
the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the Helms service manual
all tell the same story.
However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is shot.
'Curly'
02-20-2008, 05:47 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
motsco_ wrote:
> E Meyer wrote:
>>
>>
>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>
>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it
>>>> in the
>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>> tank, or
>>>> the radiator?
>>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow tank
>>>> sits at
>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>> around
>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a while.
>>> ----------------------------
>>>
>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas and
>>> the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1", hot or
>>> cold, summer or winter.
>>>
>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from what
>>> the Honda engineers designed.
>>>
>>> 'Curly'
>>
>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>> cars over
>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>
> ---------------------
>
> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>
> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The
> coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA
> isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all.
> Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold
> coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>
> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because the
> rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air is
> forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir and when
> the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as coolant it
> drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add coolant up to
> the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the Helms service manual
> all tell the same story.
>
> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is shot.
>
> 'Curly'
> E Meyer wrote:
>>
>>
>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>
>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it
>>>> in the
>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>> tank, or
>>>> the radiator?
>>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow tank
>>>> sits at
>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>> around
>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a while.
>>> ----------------------------
>>>
>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas and
>>> the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1", hot or
>>> cold, summer or winter.
>>>
>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from what
>>> the Honda engineers designed.
>>>
>>> 'Curly'
>>
>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>> cars over
>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>
> ---------------------
>
> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>
> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The
> coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA
> isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all.
> Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold
> coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>
> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because the
> rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air is
> forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir and when
> the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as coolant it
> drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add coolant up to
> the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the Helms service manual
> all tell the same story.
>
> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is shot.
>
> 'Curly'
02-20-2008, 07:06 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> motsco_ wrote:
>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>> it in the
>>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>> tank, or
>>>>> the radiator?
>>>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow
>>>>> tank sits at
>>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>> around
>>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>> while.
>>>> ----------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>> and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>> hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>
>>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>> what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>
>>>> 'Curly'
>>>
>>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>> cars over
>>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>
>> ---------------------
>>
>> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>
>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>
> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>
>
>>
>> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>> the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>> is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>> and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>> coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>> coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>> Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>
>> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>> shot.
>>
>> 'Curly'
>
I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much coolant
so quickly.
IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
leak.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> motsco_ wrote:
>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>> it in the
>>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>> tank, or
>>>>> the radiator?
>>>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow
>>>>> tank sits at
>>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>> around
>>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>> while.
>>>> ----------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>> and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>> hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>
>>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>> what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>
>>>> 'Curly'
>>>
>>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>> cars over
>>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>
>> ---------------------
>>
>> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>
>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>
> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>
>
>>
>> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>> the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>> is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>> and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>> coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>> coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>> Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>
>> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>> shot.
>>
>> 'Curly'
>
I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much coolant
so quickly.
IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
leak.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
02-20-2008, 07:10 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
news:j50vj.11208$wG2.3708@trndny09:
> I know. On the one hand it may be nothing. On the other it could
> be
> engine-threatening. The dealer told us in essesnce, that we can't
> afford a new gasket - didn't even quote a price.
then you need to go to a different service supplier.(but still use OEM
Honda parts)
It seems obvious this dealer just doesn't want to work on your car.
> And we wonder why
> cars aren't maintained like they used to be...
>
> The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times.
>
It's a FACT you're losing coolant fast;you need to find out WHERE.
A dye test seems in order.
THEN worry about head gaskets,IF necessary.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
news:j50vj.11208$wG2.3708@trndny09:
> I know. On the one hand it may be nothing. On the other it could
> be
> engine-threatening. The dealer told us in essesnce, that we can't
> afford a new gasket - didn't even quote a price.
then you need to go to a different service supplier.(but still use OEM
Honda parts)
It seems obvious this dealer just doesn't want to work on your car.
> And we wonder why
> cars aren't maintained like they used to be...
>
> The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times.
>
It's a FACT you're losing coolant fast;you need to find out WHERE.
A dye test seems in order.
THEN worry about head gaskets,IF necessary.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
02-20-2008, 08:31 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> motsco_ wrote:
>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>>> it in the
>>>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>>> tank, or
>>>>>> the radiator?
>>>>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow
>>>>>> tank sits at
>>>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>>> around
>>>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>>> while.
>>>>> ----------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>>> and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>>> hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>>
>>>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>>> what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>>
>>>>> 'Curly'
>>>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>>> cars over
>>>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>> ---------------------
>>>
>>> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>>
>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>>
>>> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>>> the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>>> is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>>> and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>>> coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>>> coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>>> Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>>
>>> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>>> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>>> shot.
>>>
>>> 'Curly'
>
> I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much coolant
> so quickly.
> IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
> leak.
>
but most antifreeze already has dye in it already. and dye does nothing
to diagnose a head gasket.
as said by someone else, the o.p. needs to take this vehicle to a shop
that /wants/ to fix it - clearly the current one doesn't. time to hit
the phones.
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> motsco_ wrote:
>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>>> it in the
>>>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>>> tank, or
>>>>>> the radiator?
>>>>>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow
>>>>>> tank sits at
>>>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>>> around
>>>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>>> while.
>>>>> ----------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>>> and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>>> hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>>
>>>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>>> what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>>
>>>>> 'Curly'
>>>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>>> cars over
>>>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>> ---------------------
>>>
>>> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>>
>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>>
>>> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>>> the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>>> is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>>> and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>>> coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>>> coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>>> Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>>
>>> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>>> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>>> shot.
>>>
>>> 'Curly'
>
> I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much coolant
> so quickly.
> IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
> leak.
>
but most antifreeze already has dye in it already. and dye does nothing
to diagnose a head gasket.
as said by someone else, the o.p. needs to take this vehicle to a shop
that /wants/ to fix it - clearly the current one doesn't. time to hit
the phones.
02-21-2008, 12:15 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>
>>motsco_ wrote:
>>
>>>E Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>>>"motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>E Meyer wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>>>it in the
>>>>>>reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>>>tank, or
>>>>>>the radiator?
>>>>>>In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow
>>>>>>tank sits at
>>>>>>the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>>>around
>>>>>>the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>>>while.
>>>>>
>>>>>----------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>>Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>>>and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>>>hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>>
>>>>>If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>>>what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>>
>>>>>'Curly'
>>>>
>>>>I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>>>cars over
>>>>a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>>
>>>---------------------
>>>
>>>Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>>
>>>Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>>The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>>HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>>all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>>than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>
>>sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>>expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>>expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>>
>>
>>>Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>>>the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>>>is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>>>and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>>>coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>>>coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>>>Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>>
>>>However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>>>head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>>>shot.
>>>
>>>'Curly'
>>
>
> I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much coolant
> so quickly.
> IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
> leak.
>
I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they
will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or worse
than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system pressure
test, and passed.
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>
>>motsco_ wrote:
>>
>>>E Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>>>"motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>E Meyer wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>>>it in the
>>>>>>reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>>>tank, or
>>>>>>the radiator?
>>>>>>In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow
>>>>>>tank sits at
>>>>>>the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>>>around
>>>>>>the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>>>while.
>>>>>
>>>>>----------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>>Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>>>and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>>>hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>>
>>>>>If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>>>what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>>
>>>>>'Curly'
>>>>
>>>>I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>>>cars over
>>>>a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>>
>>>---------------------
>>>
>>>Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>>
>>>Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>>The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>>HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>>all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>>than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>
>>sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>>expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>>expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>>
>>
>>>Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>>>the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>>>is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>>>and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>>>coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>>>coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>>>Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>>
>>>However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>>>head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>>>shot.
>>>
>>>'Curly'
>>
>
> I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much coolant
> so quickly.
> IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
> leak.
>
I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they
will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or worse
than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system pressure
test, and passed.
02-21-2008, 12:34 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
> Jim Yanik wrote:
>
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>> motsco_ wrote:
>>>
>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>>>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>>>> it in the
>>>>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>>>> tank, or
>>>>>>> the radiator? In normal use, the system will settle out to where
>>>>>>> the overflow
>>>>>>> tank sits at
>>>>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>>>> around
>>>>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>>>> while.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ----------------------------
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>>>> and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>>>> hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>>>> what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 'Curly'
>>>>>
>>>>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>>>> cars over
>>>>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>>>
>>>> ---------------------
>>>>
>>>> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>>>
>>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>>
>>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>>
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>>>> the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>>>> is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>>>> and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>>>> coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>>>> coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>>>> Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>>>
>>>> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>>>> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>>>> shot.
>>>> 'Curly'
>>>
>>
>> I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much
>> coolant so quickly.
>> IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
>> leak.
>>
>
> I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they
> will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or worse
> than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system pressure
> test, and passed.
you don't usually do a separate dye test for antifreeze since it's
already dyed. dye is more commonly used for differentiating different
types of oil leak [engine oil and mtf are similarly colored and hard to
tell apart sometimes] or for a/c systems.
the best thing at this time is to take the vehicle to someone that has
an interest in fixing the problem, not trying to tell you the vehicle is
too old to be worth bothering with. there are plenty of independent
honda specialists out there. find one and check to see if they have a
good reputation.
> Jim Yanik wrote:
>
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:KMSdnV0zeONlMCHanZ2dnUVZ_tqtnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>> motsco_ wrote:
>>>
>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com,
>>>>> "motsco_" <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> E Meyer wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was
>>>>>>> it in the
>>>>>>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow
>>>>>>> tank, or
>>>>>>> the radiator? In normal use, the system will settle out to where
>>>>>>> the overflow
>>>>>>> tank sits at
>>>>>>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to
>>>>>>> around
>>>>>>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a
>>>>>>> while.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ----------------------------
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas
>>>>>> and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1",
>>>>>> hot or cold, summer or winter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from
>>>>>> what the Honda engineers designed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 'Curly'
>>>>>
>>>>> I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different
>>>>> cars over
>>>>> a period 38 years. Where do you get yours?
>>>>
>>>> ---------------------
>>>>
>>>> Sorry, misinformation is a strong word.
>>>>
>>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>>
>>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>>
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because
>>>> the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air
>>>> is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir
>>>> and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as
>>>> coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add
>>>> coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the
>>>> Helms service manual all tell the same story.
>>>>
>>>> However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the
>>>> head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is
>>>> shot.
>>>> 'Curly'
>>>
>>
>> I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much
>> coolant so quickly.
>> IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant
>> leak.
>>
>
> I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they
> will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or worse
> than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system pressure
> test, and passed.
you don't usually do a separate dye test for antifreeze since it's
already dyed. dye is more commonly used for differentiating different
types of oil leak [engine oil and mtf are similarly colored and hard to
tell apart sometimes] or for a/c systems.
the best thing at this time is to take the vehicle to someone that has
an interest in fixing the problem, not trying to tell you the vehicle is
too old to be worth bothering with. there are plenty of independent
honda specialists out there. find one and check to see if they have a
good reputation.
02-21-2008, 05:52 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
news:gO7vj.9369$kz3.3883@trndny03:
>>
>
> I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they
> will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or
> worse than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system
> pressure test, and passed.
>
The two tests are meant to check for different problems. They are NOT
equivalent.
I'm assuming the "system test" means they checked the cooling system by
pressurizing it. If that test did not use dye, then the test was
incomplete. A dye test also will not pick up leaks that come from the water
pump, since those leaks take lots of time fo be seen from under the timing
belt cover.
If there is suspicion on a head gasket leak, you must do the cylinder
pressure check.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:gO7vj.9369$kz3.3883@trndny03:
>>
>
> I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they
> will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or
> worse than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system
> pressure test, and passed.
>
The two tests are meant to check for different problems. They are NOT
equivalent.
I'm assuming the "system test" means they checked the cooling system by
pressurizing it. If that test did not use dye, then the test was
incomplete. A dye test also will not pick up leaks that come from the water
pump, since those leaks take lots of time fo be seen from under the timing
belt cover.
If there is suspicion on a head gasket leak, you must do the cylinder
pressure check.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
02-21-2008, 05:56 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
news:gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08:
>>
>>
>
> What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a
> new
> gasket done by the dealer, is to tell them to look for leaks,
> especially at the water pump. If they find none, I'll have them
> replace the head gasket.
Only if they can confirm a leak into the cooling system from the
combustion chambers. And this is not difficult.
A head gasket is not something you just go and replace on a whim.
> Shouldn't they install the new timing belt
> and water pump for no extra labor charge (they will be providing the
> parts, not me) when they do the gasket?
No. They need to remove the crank pulley and lots of other parts when
replacing the timing belt.
> I'm also having the front oil
> seals replaced as a preventive measure.
That's a good idea, but does add to the labor cosrt.
> Thanks for your response. If
> you could answer this post before this evening, when I drop it off,
> I'd appreciate it greatly.
I'm not working from home for the time being (BIG adjustment after
working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the
office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08:
>>
>>
>
> What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a
> new
> gasket done by the dealer, is to tell them to look for leaks,
> especially at the water pump. If they find none, I'll have them
> replace the head gasket.
Only if they can confirm a leak into the cooling system from the
combustion chambers. And this is not difficult.
A head gasket is not something you just go and replace on a whim.
> Shouldn't they install the new timing belt
> and water pump for no extra labor charge (they will be providing the
> parts, not me) when they do the gasket?
No. They need to remove the crank pulley and lots of other parts when
replacing the timing belt.
> I'm also having the front oil
> seals replaced as a preventive measure.
That's a good idea, but does add to the labor cosrt.
> Thanks for your response. If
> you could answer this post before this evening, when I drop it off,
> I'd appreciate it greatly.
I'm not working from home for the time being (BIG adjustment after
working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the
office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
02-21-2008, 06:46 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
Tegger wrote:
> "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
> news:gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08:
>
>
>
>>>
>> What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a
>> new
>>gasket done by the dealer, is to tell them to look for leaks,
>>especially at the water pump. If they find none, I'll have them
>>replace the head gasket.
>
>
>
>
> Only if they can confirm a leak into the cooling system from the
> combustion chambers. And this is not difficult.
>
> A head gasket is not something you just go and replace on a whim.
>
>
>
>
>>Shouldn't they install the new timing belt
>>and water pump for no extra labor charge (they will be providing the
>>parts, not me) when they do the gasket?
>
>
>
>
> No. They need to remove the crank pulley and lots of other parts when
> replacing the timing belt.
>
>
>
>
>>I'm also having the front oil
>>seals replaced as a preventive measure.
>
>
>
> That's a good idea, but does add to the labor cosrt.
>
>
>
>
>>Thanks for your response. If
>>you could answer this post before this evening, when I drop it off,
>>I'd appreciate it greatly.
>
>
>
>
> I'm not working from home for the time being (BIG adjustment after
> working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the
> office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be.
>
>
I appreciate the replies. I'll have them do the pressure test if
there is no sign of a leak. If it's the kind of leak a dye test would
show, it should be visible by now anyway, I hope.
> "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
> news:gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08:
>
>
>
>>>
>> What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a
>> new
>>gasket done by the dealer, is to tell them to look for leaks,
>>especially at the water pump. If they find none, I'll have them
>>replace the head gasket.
>
>
>
>
> Only if they can confirm a leak into the cooling system from the
> combustion chambers. And this is not difficult.
>
> A head gasket is not something you just go and replace on a whim.
>
>
>
>
>>Shouldn't they install the new timing belt
>>and water pump for no extra labor charge (they will be providing the
>>parts, not me) when they do the gasket?
>
>
>
>
> No. They need to remove the crank pulley and lots of other parts when
> replacing the timing belt.
>
>
>
>
>>I'm also having the front oil
>>seals replaced as a preventive measure.
>
>
>
> That's a good idea, but does add to the labor cosrt.
>
>
>
>
>>Thanks for your response. If
>>you could answer this post before this evening, when I drop it off,
>>I'd appreciate it greatly.
>
>
>
>
> I'm not working from home for the time being (BIG adjustment after
> working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the
> office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be.
>
>
I appreciate the replies. I'll have them do the pressure test if
there is no sign of a leak. If it's the kind of leak a dye test would
show, it should be visible by now anyway, I hope.
02-21-2008, 11:05 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: different direction Coefficient_of_thermal_expansion
jim beam wrote:
>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The
>> coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA
>> isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all.
>> Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold
>> coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>
> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>
-----------------------------
I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to take
up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping
the pressure up".
The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time.
If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill
the reservoir to the top, but in a healthy Honda cooling system, the
level in the reservoir isn't supposed to go up and down 4 - 5 inches
every time you drive it.
'Curly'
>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The
>> coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA
>> isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all.
>> Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold
>> coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>
> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>
-----------------------------
I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to take
up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping
the pressure up".
The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time.
If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill
the reservoir to the top, but in a healthy Honda cooling system, the
level in the reservoir isn't supposed to go up and down 4 - 5 inches
every time you drive it.
'Curly'
02-21-2008, 11:17 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
On 2/20/08 2:30 PM, in article j50vj.11208$wG2.3708@trndny09,
"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote:
> E Meyer wrote:
>>
>>
>> On 2/20/08 6:20 AM, in article gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08,
>> "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Tegger wrote:
>>>
>>>> "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
>>>> news:_8Iuj.4853$0%3.3542@trnddc06:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Tony Hwang wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to
>>>>>>>> add
>>>>>>>> "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came from
>>>>>>>> NM, with a spotty service record, I had hoped that it was simply
>>>>>>>> not topped off ever. Now, three months later, with only moderate
>>>>>>>> driving, I see the reservoir is virtually empty again. I don't see
>>>>>>>> excessive white smoke in the exhaust, or smell antifreeze in it -
>>>>>>>> although I haven't sniffed it specifically for that, yet. The oil
>>>>>>>> looks fine. I don't smell coolant inside the car, either. It would
>>>>>>>> be hard to spot a slow drip in this wet Winter weather. How common
>>>>>>>> are internal head gasket leaks in this engine, as opposed to slow
>>>>>>>> leaks in the reservoirs?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>>> First I'd replace the rad. cap and see.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Good idea. I didn't realize that pressure leaks were such a common
>>>>>> problem. I may have the system pressure-tested if replacing the cap
>>>>>> doesn't work. Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I took the car to a local shop today. They do free pressure tests
>>>>> (I
>>>>> gave them $20 anyway). No leaks, including the cap. Unless I'm missing
>>>>> something, it has to be the #@!@# head gasket, right? Assuming it's
>>>>> going straight to the exhaust and not burning much, how safe is it to
>>>>> leave it alone? Any suggestions?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The pressure test needs to be performed in two places.
>>>> 1) the cooling system, and
>>>> 2) the combusion chambers.
>>>>
>>>> the first is done in conjuction with the introduction of UV dye to the
>>>> coolant, this being detected on the outside with a black light. The
>>>> second consists of shop air being blown into each combustion chamber,
>>>> then the rad filler neck being then inspected for bubbles.
>>>>
>>>> There is a third test that uses special paper test strips dipped into
>>>> the rad filler neck. These change color in the presence of combustion
>>>> gases in the coolant.
>>>
>>> The procedure in the Honda manual online in the UK is to just use a
>>> hand pump-operated pressurizer with guage, and see if the pressure drops
>>> in the cooling system or cap. I don't know which they used at the shop...
>>>
>>>
>>>> Your problem is NOT the rad cap. If it were, the reservoir would be
>>>> FULL.
>>>
>>> Good point.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> There is also the possibility of a worn water pump. In that case the
>>>> coolant would drip down the block under the timing belt cover and may
>>>> not be obvious. Findinig that leak means carefully inspecting the crank
>>>> pulley area.
>>>>
>>>> Do not put this off. You WILL damage your engine, possibly badly. You're
>>>> supposed to check your coolant level every time you open the hood, or at
>>>> least once a week.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a new
>>> gasket done by the dealer, is to tell them to look for leaks, especially
>>> at the water pump. If they find none, I'll have them replace the head
>>> gasket. Shouldn't they install the new timing belt and water pump for no
>>> extra labor charge (they will be providing the parts, not me) when they
>>> do the gasket? I'm also having the front oil seals replaced as a
>>> preventive measure. Thanks for your response. If you could answer this
>>> post before this evening, when I drop it off, I'd appreciate it greatly.
>>
>>
>> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it in the
>> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow tank, or
>> the radiator?
>>
>> In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow tank sits at
>> the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to around
>> the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a while.
>>
>> I certainly would not spend money replacing a head gasket that has not even
>> been diagnosed. There is not enough info here to even say for sure that
>> there is a problem.
>>
>
> I know. On the one hand it may be nothing. On the other it could be
> engine-threatening. The dealer told us in essesnce, that we can't afford
> a new gasket - didn't even quote a price. And we wonder why cars aren't
> maintained like they used to be...
>
> The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times.
What did the dealer say he thought the problem was?
If the reservoir is empty, but the radiator is full (I'm still not clear if
that's what you are saying), have you checked that the reservoir itself, or
the hose to it is not damaged and is actually letting the coolant leak out?
02-21-2008, 11:24 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: different direction Coefficient_of_thermal_expansion
motsco_ wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>
>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>
> -----------------------------
>
> I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to take
> up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping
> the pressure up".
but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially.
that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not
near the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the
volume of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube.
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/pr...e.asp?mi=8225#
> The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time.
> If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill
> the reservoir to the top, but in a healthy Honda cooling system, the
> level in the reservoir isn't supposed to go up and down 4 - 5 inches
> every time you drive it.
>
> 'Curly'
> jim beam wrote:
>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>
>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>
> -----------------------------
>
> I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to take
> up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping
> the pressure up".
but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially.
that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not
near the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the
volume of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube.
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/pr...e.asp?mi=8225#
> The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time.
> If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill
> the reservoir to the top, but in a healthy Honda cooling system, the
> level in the reservoir isn't supposed to go up and down 4 - 5 inches
> every time you drive it.
>
> 'Curly'
02-21-2008, 11:43 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: different direction Coefficient_of_thermal_expansion
motsco_ wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>
>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>
> -----------------------------
>
> I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to take
> up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping
> the pressure up".
but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially.
that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not
near the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the
volume of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube.
http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/verther.html
> The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time.
> If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill
> the reservoir to the top, but in a healthy Honda cooling system, the
> level in the reservoir isn't supposed to go up and down 4 - 5 inches
> every time you drive it.
>
> 'Curly'
> jim beam wrote:
>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at
>>> all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>
>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely
>> expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant
>> expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>
>
> -----------------------------
>
> I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to take
> up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping
> the pressure up".
but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially.
that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not
near the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the
volume of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube.
http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/verther.html
> The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time.
> If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill
> the reservoir to the top, but in a healthy Honda cooling system, the
> level in the reservoir isn't supposed to go up and down 4 - 5 inches
> every time you drive it.
>
> 'Curly'
02-21-2008, 11:49 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Coolant Vanishing: different direction Coefficient_of_thermal_expansion
jim beam wrote:
> motsco_ wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure
>>>> at all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>>
>>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most
>>> definitely expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't
>>> stop coolant expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>>
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>>
>>
>> -----------------------------
>>
>> I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to
>> take up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is
>> keeping the pressure up".
>
> but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially.
> that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not near
> the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the volume
> of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube.
>
> http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/pr...e.asp?mi=8225#
----------------------------
Apples to oranges. The thermometer has a capillary tube that amplifies
the amount the mercury or spirit is expanding, and it's expanding toward
the air bubble at the top. That's exactly like the Volvo or Dodge system
with the pressure cap on top of a reservoir half-full of air.
The Honda coolant expands a bit and builds pressure, but it's the hoses
that probably absorb most of the expansion, not the reservoir. If you
were talking about gasoline expanding, that's very different. Water
doesn't compress, and until it boils it doesn't expand much at all.
That's why the water pipes in your house hammer when you shut off a tap
suddenly. For that reason I've installed an air trap in the water line
to my bathroom shower as a shock absorber. All is now quiet on the
Western Front.
:-)
'Curly'
> motsco_ wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs.
>>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the
>>>> HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure
>>>> at all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room
>>>> than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up.
>>>
>>> sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most
>>> definitely expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't
>>> stop coolant expanding, it simply raises the boiling point.
>>>
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion
>>>
>>
>> -----------------------------
>>
>> I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to
>> take up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is
>> keeping the pressure up".
>
> but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially.
> that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not near
> the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the volume
> of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube.
>
> http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/pr...e.asp?mi=8225#
----------------------------
Apples to oranges. The thermometer has a capillary tube that amplifies
the amount the mercury or spirit is expanding, and it's expanding toward
the air bubble at the top. That's exactly like the Volvo or Dodge system
with the pressure cap on top of a reservoir half-full of air.
The Honda coolant expands a bit and builds pressure, but it's the hoses
that probably absorb most of the expansion, not the reservoir. If you
were talking about gasoline expanding, that's very different. Water
doesn't compress, and until it boils it doesn't expand much at all.
That's why the water pipes in your house hammer when you shut off a tap
suddenly. For that reason I've installed an air trap in the water line
to my bathroom shower as a shock absorber. All is now quiet on the
Western Front.
:-)
'Curly'