Cost of a break job?
I recently had a break job done. I was charged around $475 for a
front & rear break job, but no new parts were installed. They "machined the existing warped and rusted rotors" and "cleaned the existing break pads". Does that seem like a reasonable price for a job that doesn't require any new parts? Just looking for opinions. Thanks, J. |
Re: Cost of a break job?
To clarify: It is for an Acura 3.2 TL (2003).
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Re: Cost of a break job?
JayN wrote:
> I recently had a break job done. I was charged around $475 for a > front & rear break job, but no new parts were installed. They > "machined the existing warped and rusted rotors" and "cleaned the > existing break pads". > > Does that seem like a reasonable price for a job that doesn't require > any new parts? Just looking for opinions. > > Thanks, > > J. what's a "break job"? did you break your brakes??? |
Re: Cost of a break job?
Yes, I meant brakes!
This damed voice recognition software strikes again! > > what's a "break job"? did you break your brakes??? |
Re: Cost of a break job?
JayN <JReality@hotmail.com> wrote in news:c06915a8-3dff-482c-82fe-
9dc9eb03adcd@f63g2000hsf.googlegroups.com: > I recently had a break job done. I was charged around $475 for a > front & rear break job, but no new parts were installed. They > "machined the existing warped and rusted rotors" and "cleaned the > existing break pads". > > Does that seem like a reasonable price for a job that doesn't require > any new parts? Just looking for opinions. > It does, yes. They've probably charged you for four hours of labor (one per wheel), which is reasonable when machining is involved. And it's spelled "brake", not "break". -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Cost of a break job?
On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 08:55:29 -0700 (PDT), JayN <JReality@hotmail.com>
wrote: >I recently had a break job done. I was charged around $475 for a >front & rear break job, but no new parts were installed. They >"machined the existing warped and rusted rotors" and "cleaned the >existing break pads". > >Does that seem like a reasonable price for a job that doesn't require >any new parts? Just looking for opinions. Other people have answered your question, but I cannot understand why they did not go ahead and replace the pads. They don't cost much and it seems logical to throw some new ones on while the rotors or off anyway.. This would add only a small amount of time to the overall labor cost. Elliot Richmond Itinerant astronomy teacher |
Re: Cost of a break job?
Thanks.
> It does, yes. They've probably charged you for four hours of labor (one per > wheel), which is reasonable when machining is involved. > |
Re: Cost of a break job?
Elliot Richmond wrote:
> On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 08:55:29 -0700 (PDT), JayN <JReality@hotmail.com> > wrote: > >> I recently had a break job done. I was charged around $475 for a >> front & rear break job, but no new parts were installed. They >> "machined the existing warped and rusted rotors" and "cleaned the >> existing break pads". >> >> Does that seem like a reasonable price for a job that doesn't require >> any new parts? Just looking for opinions. > > Other people have answered your question, but I cannot understand why > they did not go ahead and replace the pads. They don't cost much and > it seems logical to throw some new ones on while the rotors or off > anyway.. This would add only a small amount of time to the overall > labor cost. almost certainly because they were in great shape, but the op was experiencing brake shuddering. fact is, most of the time, this is solved with a little antiseize and a torque wrench, not skimming the disks. disk skimming is a practice thrown at pretty much any mis-diagnosed brake problem. |
Re: Cost of a break job?
They said that because the car only has 19500 miles on it, the pads
weren't that worn. > Other people have answered your question, but I cannot understand why > they did not go ahead and replace the pads. They don't cost much and > it seems logical to throw some new ones on while the rotors or off > anyway.. This would add only a small amount of time to the overall > labor cost. > > Elliot Richmond > Itinerant astronomy teacher |
Re: Cost of a break job?
JayN <JReality@hotmail.com> wrote in news:1089bb29-b6f6-4e07-baf2-
328f49ef3c40@73g2000hsx.googlegroups.com: > They said that because the car only has 19500 miles on it, the pads > weren't that worn. That explains your rust. I'll bet your rotors weren't warped at all, but instead had patchy glaze and rust, which causes exactly the same symptoms as warped rotors. Machining is the only way to revive rotors with such problems. You need to get the old girl out for a good long highway drive at least once a week. This will help scrape off the rotor rust, as well as having other benefits. Cars are like people: they improve with exercise. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Cost of a break job?
The steering wheel was vibrating when braking at high speeds,
especially 65 and higher. I was reading some articles today that suggest that, in order to diagnose the root cause behind the problem, and to prevent the vibrations from re-occurring again, the service tech should be measuring the alignment of the other components. In other words, checking if there is any "lateral runout" which, if I am understanding correctly, means the rotor, when installed, could have a very small amount wobble due to imperfections in other components, and may not be spinning parallel enough to the brake pad, etc. The idea is that if there is too much lateral runout, then the rotor and brake pad will wear unevenly and vibrations will increase over time even if they aren't noticeable immediately after the rotor is machined and reinstalled. The articles also suggest that rotors don't actually warp. The surface can wear unevenly though depending on the other components. I have no idea whether or not the service department looked into the problem to that extent, so I guess I'll just have to hope it doesn't happen again in near future. Then again, the rotors did have rust on them, so maybe my particular problem isn't as complicated as some of those articles make it out to be. I think I saw some scratches on the rotors before the brake job was done (don't know how they got there). Anyway, my car only has 19500 miles on it. Is it unusual to need a brake job with such low mileage? > almost certainly because they were in great shape, but the op was > experiencing brake shuddering. fact is, most of the time, this is > solved with a little antiseize and a torque wrench, not skimming the > disks. disk skimming is a practice thrown at pretty much any > mis-diagnosed brake problem.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - |
Re: Cost of a break job?
I also think I remember seeing some scratches on the rotors in
addition to the rust. Not understanding how those scratches got there. How long do you recommend I drive the car on the highway each week (round trip)? Thanks, Jeff On Sep 6, 7:01 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote: > JayN <JReal...@hotmail.com> wrote in news:1089bb29-b6f6-4e07-baf2- > 328f49ef3...@73g2000hsx.googlegroups.com: > > > They said that because the car only has 19500 miles on it, the pads > > weren't that worn. > > That explains your rust. I'll bet your rotors weren't warped at all, but > instead had patchy glaze and rust, which causes exactly the same symptoms > as warped rotors. Machining is the only way to revive rotors with such > problems. > > You need to get the old girl out for a good long highway drive at least > once a week. This will help scrape off the rotor rust, as well as having > other benefits. Cars are like people: they improve with exercise. > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: Cost of a break job?
JayN wrote:
> The steering wheel was vibrating when braking at high speeds, > especially 65 and higher. > > I was reading some articles today that suggest that, in order to > diagnose the root cause behind the problem, and to prevent the > vibrations from re-occurring again, the service tech should be > measuring the alignment of the other components. In other words, > checking if there is any "lateral runout" which, if I am understanding > correctly, means the rotor, when installed, could have a very small > amount wobble due to imperfections in other components, and may not be > spinning parallel enough to the brake pad, etc. The idea is that if > there is too much lateral runout, then the rotor and brake pad will > wear unevenly and vibrations will increase over time even if they > aren't noticeable immediately after the rotor is machined and > reinstalled. The articles also suggest that rotors don't actually > warp. The surface can wear unevenly though depending on the other > components. > > I have no idea whether or not the service department looked into the > problem to that extent, so I guess I'll just have to hope it doesn't > happen again in near future. Then again, the rotors did have rust on > them, so maybe my particular problem isn't as complicated as some of > those articles make it out to be. I think I saw some scratches on > the rotors before the brake job was done (don't know how they got > there). Anyway, my car only has 19500 miles on it. Is it unusual to > need a brake job with such low mileage? it's frequent for this problem to arise, and it's frequent for it to be misdiagnosed as it being a brake problem, but the reality is very different. it's caused by local elastic distortion of the hub. honda hubs are very light weight, and thus they flex under the lug not torque if it's uneven. this seats the disk askew, and thus the brakes judder. the solution is to remove the wheel, clean up the disk/wheel interface, smear a little antiseize, then torque the wheel on properly, with a torque wrench, with a two or more stage process. unless you have some other problem, such as tegger's greasy fingerprints on your disks, this with solve the "brake" problem on a honda every time. interestingly, this is why brake shops keep skimming disks - they remove, clean, skim, get greasy fingers on the interface, then replace, little realizing that it's the cleaning and replacing that's fixing the problem, not the skimming. > >> almost certainly because they were in great shape, but the op was >> experiencing brake shuddering. �fact is, most of the time, this is >> solved with a little antiseize and a torque wrench, not skimming the >> disks. �disk skimming is a practice thrown at pretty much any >> mis-diagnosed brake problem.- Hide quoted text - >> >> - Show quoted text - > |
Re: Cost of a break job?
Actually, I looked at the rotors again just now, and I'm wondering if
the surface that the brake pads come in contact with is supposed to look new after being machined? I'd say that none of them look "shiny as new." The back ones in particular, actually still look rusty on the surface that the brake pads come in contact with. Call me crazy and paranoid, but it makes me wonder if: A) they really did anything to the back ones since the surface is still rusty or B) assuming they did tell the truth about machining the back ones, would I have been better off with new rotors if the suface that comes in contact with the pads is still rust-colored even after being machined? Speaking of hubs, I notice that that the outer circumference of the hub, that is visible simply by looking between the installed wheel and the rotor, has a coating that is peeling off and is getting rusty underneath. I suppose that is par for the course though. J. > it's frequent for this problem to arise, and it's frequent for it to be > misdiagnosed as it being a brake problem, but the reality is very > different. it's caused by local elastic distortion of the hub. honda > hubs are very light weight, and thus they flex under the lug not torque > if it's uneven. this seats the disk askew, and thus the brakes judder. > > the solution is to remove the wheel, clean up the disk/wheel interface, > smear a little antiseize, then torque the wheel on properly, with a > torque wrench, with a two or more stage process. unless you have some > other problem, such as tegger's greasy fingerprints on your disks, this > with solve the "brake" problem on a honda every time. > > interestingly, this is why brake shops keep skimming disks - they > remove, clean, skim, get greasy fingers on the interface, then replace, > little realizing that it's the cleaning and replacing that's fixing the > problem, not the skimming. > > |
Re: Cost of a break job?
JayN wrote:
> Actually, I looked at the rotors again just now, and I'm wondering if > the surface that the brake pads come in contact with is supposed to > look new after being machined? only for a few hours. the moment it rains, all that's gone. >I'd say that none of them look "shiny > as new." The back ones in particular, actually still look rusty on > the surface that the brake pads come in contact with. Call me crazy > and paranoid, but it makes me wonder if: A) they really did anything > to the back ones since the surface is still rusty or B) assuming they > did tell the truth about machining the back ones, would I have been > better off with new rotors if the suface that comes in contact with > the pads is still rust-colored even after being machined? if the brake surface is rusty /after/ you've just come back from a drive, a brake piston is seized and you need to get it fixed asap. > > Speaking of hubs, I notice that that the outer circumference of the > hub, that is visible simply by looking between the installed wheel and > the rotor, has a coating that is peeling off and is getting rusty > underneath. I suppose that is par for the course though. that is actually part of the disk. the hub is under that and you can't see it with the disk on. surface rust on the non-braking surface of the disk is fine - as long as it doesn't prevent the wheel or disk sitting square against the hub. > > J. > >> it's frequent for this problem to arise, and it's frequent for it to be >> misdiagnosed as it being a brake problem, but the reality is very >> different. �it's caused by local elastic distortion of the hub. �honda >> hubs are very light weight, and thus they flex under the lug not torque >> if it's uneven. �this seats the disk askew, and thus the brakes judder. >> >> the solution is to remove the wheel, clean up the disk/wheel interface, >> smear a little antiseize, then torque the wheel on properly, with a >> torque wrench, with a two or more stage process. �unless you have some >> other problem, such as tegger's greasy fingerprints on your disks, this >> with solve the "brake" problem on a honda every time. >> >> interestingly, this is why brake shops keep skimming disks - they >> remove, clean, skim, get greasy fingers on the interface, then replace, >> little realizing that it's the cleaning and replacing that's fixing the >> problem, not the skimming. >> >> |
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