cv boot or cv joint
03-15-2005, 07:15 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
'Fraid so. The part is about half that amount at the chain parts stores, and
$100 is a decent price for the work involved. It isn't a huge amount of
work, but it is still a bit of a chore even with a lift and the proper
tools.
Since they were both apparently new only a couple years ago I wouldn't
recommend doing both sides. Normally it is better to bite the bullet and do
both since the other should be about ready to rip, but in your case the
mystery is why this one tore at all. (It's all about age and heat - I've
never heard of any being torn by road debris... although I suppose it could
happen.)
BTW - have the mechanic look the brake rotor over when he is in there. I
don't know about your car, but my daughter's '93 Accord is made so replacing
the brake rotor takes 90% of the work to replace the axle. If that's the
case and the rotor is headed for replacement soon, better to do it at the
same time.
Mike
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
'Fraid so. The part is about half that amount at the chain parts stores, and
$100 is a decent price for the work involved. It isn't a huge amount of
work, but it is still a bit of a chore even with a lift and the proper
tools.
Since they were both apparently new only a couple years ago I wouldn't
recommend doing both sides. Normally it is better to bite the bullet and do
both since the other should be about ready to rip, but in your case the
mystery is why this one tore at all. (It's all about age and heat - I've
never heard of any being torn by road debris... although I suppose it could
happen.)
BTW - have the mechanic look the brake rotor over when he is in there. I
don't know about your car, but my daughter's '93 Accord is made so replacing
the brake rotor takes 90% of the work to replace the axle. If that's the
case and the rotor is headed for replacement soon, better to do it at the
same time.
Mike
03-15-2005, 07:15 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
'Fraid so. The part is about half that amount at the chain parts stores, and
$100 is a decent price for the work involved. It isn't a huge amount of
work, but it is still a bit of a chore even with a lift and the proper
tools.
Since they were both apparently new only a couple years ago I wouldn't
recommend doing both sides. Normally it is better to bite the bullet and do
both since the other should be about ready to rip, but in your case the
mystery is why this one tore at all. (It's all about age and heat - I've
never heard of any being torn by road debris... although I suppose it could
happen.)
BTW - have the mechanic look the brake rotor over when he is in there. I
don't know about your car, but my daughter's '93 Accord is made so replacing
the brake rotor takes 90% of the work to replace the axle. If that's the
case and the rotor is headed for replacement soon, better to do it at the
same time.
Mike
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
'Fraid so. The part is about half that amount at the chain parts stores, and
$100 is a decent price for the work involved. It isn't a huge amount of
work, but it is still a bit of a chore even with a lift and the proper
tools.
Since they were both apparently new only a couple years ago I wouldn't
recommend doing both sides. Normally it is better to bite the bullet and do
both since the other should be about ready to rip, but in your case the
mystery is why this one tore at all. (It's all about age and heat - I've
never heard of any being torn by road debris... although I suppose it could
happen.)
BTW - have the mechanic look the brake rotor over when he is in there. I
don't know about your car, but my daughter's '93 Accord is made so replacing
the brake rotor takes 90% of the work to replace the axle. If that's the
case and the rotor is headed for replacement soon, better to do it at the
same time.
Mike
03-16-2005, 12:00 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
I don't know what car you have but on a '95 Accord the dealer charged me
$290 to do one and my mechanic charged me $145 to do the other. I replaced
my own on a '90 Civic and it wasn't a tough job other than I had to do the
right one four times due to crappy parts. I do have rust free cars, though,
so they come apart relatively easily.
WW
03-16-2005, 12:00 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
I don't know what car you have but on a '95 Accord the dealer charged me
$290 to do one and my mechanic charged me $145 to do the other. I replaced
my own on a '90 Civic and it wasn't a tough job other than I had to do the
right one four times due to crappy parts. I do have rust free cars, though,
so they come apart relatively easily.
WW
03-16-2005, 07:09 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
Thanks guys,I am getting it fixed tomorrow but before my mechanic orders
anything he is going to look just to make sure pepboys is rght about it
needing to be fixed,because you never know with them,also like he said
they could of just repacked the old one and said its new.
anything he is going to look just to make sure pepboys is rght about it
needing to be fixed,because you never know with them,also like he said
they could of just repacked the old one and said its new.
03-16-2005, 07:09 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
Thanks guys,I am getting it fixed tomorrow but before my mechanic orders
anything he is going to look just to make sure pepboys is rght about it
needing to be fixed,because you never know with them,also like he said
they could of just repacked the old one and said its new.
anything he is going to look just to make sure pepboys is rght about it
needing to be fixed,because you never know with them,also like he said
they could of just repacked the old one and said its new.
03-16-2005, 07:36 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"WaterWatcher" <replytogroup@donotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2u-dnXeLmbnwIKrfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
>
> "rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
> I don't know what car you have but on a '95 Accord the dealer charged me
> $290 to do one and my mechanic charged me $145 to do the other. I
> replaced my own on a '90 Civic and it wasn't a tough job other than I had
> to do the right one four times due to crappy parts. I do have rust free
> cars, though, so they come apart relatively easily.
>
> WW
>
I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the axle
nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand tools)
and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do without
tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have "the
touch"). The first one I ever did was on a Dodge that was a maintenance
nightmare, but the axle was easy. There was no taper pin on the ball joint,
just a straight pin with a pinch clamp.
I think most of the dealer price is the part - you know they aren't using a
rebuilt from the local parts store.
Mike
news:2u-dnXeLmbnwIKrfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
>
> "rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
> I don't know what car you have but on a '95 Accord the dealer charged me
> $290 to do one and my mechanic charged me $145 to do the other. I
> replaced my own on a '90 Civic and it wasn't a tough job other than I had
> to do the right one four times due to crappy parts. I do have rust free
> cars, though, so they come apart relatively easily.
>
> WW
>
I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the axle
nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand tools)
and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do without
tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have "the
touch"). The first one I ever did was on a Dodge that was a maintenance
nightmare, but the axle was easy. There was no taper pin on the ball joint,
just a straight pin with a pinch clamp.
I think most of the dealer price is the part - you know they aren't using a
rebuilt from the local parts store.
Mike
03-16-2005, 07:36 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"WaterWatcher" <replytogroup@donotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2u-dnXeLmbnwIKrfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
>
> "rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
> I don't know what car you have but on a '95 Accord the dealer charged me
> $290 to do one and my mechanic charged me $145 to do the other. I
> replaced my own on a '90 Civic and it wasn't a tough job other than I had
> to do the right one four times due to crappy parts. I do have rust free
> cars, though, so they come apart relatively easily.
>
> WW
>
I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the axle
nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand tools)
and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do without
tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have "the
touch"). The first one I ever did was on a Dodge that was a maintenance
nightmare, but the axle was easy. There was no taper pin on the ball joint,
just a straight pin with a pinch clamp.
I think most of the dealer price is the part - you know they aren't using a
rebuilt from the local parts store.
Mike
news:2u-dnXeLmbnwIKrfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
>
> "rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>
> I don't know what car you have but on a '95 Accord the dealer charged me
> $290 to do one and my mechanic charged me $145 to do the other. I
> replaced my own on a '90 Civic and it wasn't a tough job other than I had
> to do the right one four times due to crappy parts. I do have rust free
> cars, though, so they come apart relatively easily.
>
> WW
>
I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the axle
nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand tools)
and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do without
tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have "the
touch"). The first one I ever did was on a Dodge that was a maintenance
nightmare, but the axle was easy. There was no taper pin on the ball joint,
just a straight pin with a pinch clamp.
I think most of the dealer price is the part - you know they aren't using a
rebuilt from the local parts store.
Mike
03-16-2005, 10:42 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
Hey guys i need one more thing,how much is a wheel bearing and wheel hub ,
i am trying to figure how much money i need.i just looked at the axles the
one is completely leaking grease all over my wheel and i am afraid that it
ruined my bearing or hub,and the other one is cracking so i dont know why
after 2 years they are already going bad,my mechanic said they might of
painted them and said they were replaced.
i am trying to figure how much money i need.i just looked at the axles the
one is completely leaking grease all over my wheel and i am afraid that it
ruined my bearing or hub,and the other one is cracking so i dont know why
after 2 years they are already going bad,my mechanic said they might of
painted them and said they were replaced.
03-16-2005, 10:42 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
Hey guys i need one more thing,how much is a wheel bearing and wheel hub ,
i am trying to figure how much money i need.i just looked at the axles the
one is completely leaking grease all over my wheel and i am afraid that it
ruined my bearing or hub,and the other one is cracking so i dont know why
after 2 years they are already going bad,my mechanic said they might of
painted them and said they were replaced.
i am trying to figure how much money i need.i just looked at the axles the
one is completely leaking grease all over my wheel and i am afraid that it
ruined my bearing or hub,and the other one is cracking so i dont know why
after 2 years they are already going bad,my mechanic said they might of
painted them and said they were replaced.
03-16-2005, 05:31 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:d56d2a12ca631935073f5acad436825b@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad?
> one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont
> want
> to put more money out than i have to
>
No - definitely not. The hub is designed to deal with the very common
problem of bad CV joint boots. It will have to be wiped more-or-less clean
(out of general tidiness) but that is a normal part of axle replacement and
is certainly included in the price.
Mike
news:d56d2a12ca631935073f5acad436825b@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad?
> one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont
> want
> to put more money out than i have to
>
No - definitely not. The hub is designed to deal with the very common
problem of bad CV joint boots. It will have to be wiped more-or-less clean
(out of general tidiness) but that is a normal part of axle replacement and
is certainly included in the price.
Mike
03-16-2005, 05:31 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:d56d2a12ca631935073f5acad436825b@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad?
> one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont
> want
> to put more money out than i have to
>
No - definitely not. The hub is designed to deal with the very common
problem of bad CV joint boots. It will have to be wiped more-or-less clean
(out of general tidiness) but that is a normal part of axle replacement and
is certainly included in the price.
Mike
news:d56d2a12ca631935073f5acad436825b@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad?
> one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont
> want
> to put more money out than i have to
>
No - definitely not. The hub is designed to deal with the very common
problem of bad CV joint boots. It will have to be wiped more-or-less clean
(out of general tidiness) but that is a normal part of axle replacement and
is certainly included in the price.
Mike
