Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
nearby fixit place.
Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
after-market supplier's price.
My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
myself.
I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
nearby fixit place.
Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
after-market supplier's price.
My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
myself.
I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Dave O wrote:
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
soak. totally modular. takes about 5 minutes to replace and maybe
another 5 to re-time the motor. [you'll need a timing light.] or you
can repair the original. if the cap and rotor are good, it's the
igniter or coil. price those separately and see how you feel then.
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
soak. totally modular. takes about 5 minutes to replace and maybe
another 5 to re-time the motor. [you'll need a timing light.] or you
can repair the original. if the cap and rotor are good, it's the
igniter or coil. price those separately and see how you feel then.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Dave O wrote:
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
soak. totally modular. takes about 5 minutes to replace and maybe
another 5 to re-time the motor. [you'll need a timing light.] or you
can repair the original. if the cap and rotor are good, it's the
igniter or coil. price those separately and see how you feel then.
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
soak. totally modular. takes about 5 minutes to replace and maybe
another 5 to re-time the motor. [you'll need a timing light.] or you
can repair the original. if the cap and rotor are good, it's the
igniter or coil. price those separately and see how you feel then.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Dave O wrote:
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
soak. totally modular. takes about 5 minutes to replace and maybe
another 5 to re-time the motor. [you'll need a timing light.] or you
can repair the original. if the cap and rotor are good, it's the
igniter or coil. price those separately and see how you feel then.
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
soak. totally modular. takes about 5 minutes to replace and maybe
another 5 to re-time the motor. [you'll need a timing light.] or you
can repair the original. if the cap and rotor are good, it's the
igniter or coil. price those separately and see how you feel then.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
The distributor's parts are typically the Achille's heel of
Hondas of this vintage. The cause of an engine not starting
or stalling is often either the distributor coil,
distributor igniter, or the rotor falling off, due to a
rather notorious failed set screw. Now at some point, and
your car might be there, the housing as a whole develops
deficiencies. E.g. at its wire harness; at its the seals
between it and the engine head; the female side of the
aforementioned screw in the distributor shaft; etc.
This shop should state exactly what part of the distributor
they believe to have failed. They should indicate whether
the job includes a new igniter and new coil. It need not
necessarily include these.
It is a fairly simple replacement. It is the parts that
cost.
$500 total is not bad if it includes housing, igniter, and
coil.
Use ONLY OEM for this job. Aftermarket distributor parts do
not hold up well with Hondas.
Consider new OEM ignition wires and a new distributor rotor
as well.
From my experience with my 91 Civic and reading here for
years, Hondas go through at least one distributor housing in
their lives. My 91 Civic is on its second housing.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and
> wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start
> problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor
> cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it
> towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They
> estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on
> the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit
> place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the
> price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an
> Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than
> their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts
> into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple
> operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and
> replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
Hondas of this vintage. The cause of an engine not starting
or stalling is often either the distributor coil,
distributor igniter, or the rotor falling off, due to a
rather notorious failed set screw. Now at some point, and
your car might be there, the housing as a whole develops
deficiencies. E.g. at its wire harness; at its the seals
between it and the engine head; the female side of the
aforementioned screw in the distributor shaft; etc.
This shop should state exactly what part of the distributor
they believe to have failed. They should indicate whether
the job includes a new igniter and new coil. It need not
necessarily include these.
It is a fairly simple replacement. It is the parts that
cost.
$500 total is not bad if it includes housing, igniter, and
coil.
Use ONLY OEM for this job. Aftermarket distributor parts do
not hold up well with Hondas.
Consider new OEM ignition wires and a new distributor rotor
as well.
From my experience with my 91 Civic and reading here for
years, Hondas go through at least one distributor housing in
their lives. My 91 Civic is on its second housing.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and
> wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start
> problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor
> cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it
> towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They
> estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on
> the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit
> place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the
> price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an
> Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than
> their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts
> into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple
> operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and
> replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
The distributor's parts are typically the Achille's heel of
Hondas of this vintage. The cause of an engine not starting
or stalling is often either the distributor coil,
distributor igniter, or the rotor falling off, due to a
rather notorious failed set screw. Now at some point, and
your car might be there, the housing as a whole develops
deficiencies. E.g. at its wire harness; at its the seals
between it and the engine head; the female side of the
aforementioned screw in the distributor shaft; etc.
This shop should state exactly what part of the distributor
they believe to have failed. They should indicate whether
the job includes a new igniter and new coil. It need not
necessarily include these.
It is a fairly simple replacement. It is the parts that
cost.
$500 total is not bad if it includes housing, igniter, and
coil.
Use ONLY OEM for this job. Aftermarket distributor parts do
not hold up well with Hondas.
Consider new OEM ignition wires and a new distributor rotor
as well.
From my experience with my 91 Civic and reading here for
years, Hondas go through at least one distributor housing in
their lives. My 91 Civic is on its second housing.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and
> wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start
> problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor
> cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it
> towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They
> estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on
> the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit
> place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the
> price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an
> Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than
> their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts
> into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple
> operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and
> replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
Hondas of this vintage. The cause of an engine not starting
or stalling is often either the distributor coil,
distributor igniter, or the rotor falling off, due to a
rather notorious failed set screw. Now at some point, and
your car might be there, the housing as a whole develops
deficiencies. E.g. at its wire harness; at its the seals
between it and the engine head; the female side of the
aforementioned screw in the distributor shaft; etc.
This shop should state exactly what part of the distributor
they believe to have failed. They should indicate whether
the job includes a new igniter and new coil. It need not
necessarily include these.
It is a fairly simple replacement. It is the parts that
cost.
$500 total is not bad if it includes housing, igniter, and
coil.
Use ONLY OEM for this job. Aftermarket distributor parts do
not hold up well with Hondas.
Consider new OEM ignition wires and a new distributor rotor
as well.
From my experience with my 91 Civic and reading here for
years, Hondas go through at least one distributor housing in
their lives. My 91 Civic is on its second housing.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and
> wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start
> problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor
> cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it
> towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They
> estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on
> the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit
> place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the
> price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an
> Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than
> their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts
> into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple
> operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and
> replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
The distributor's parts are typically the Achille's heel of
Hondas of this vintage. The cause of an engine not starting
or stalling is often either the distributor coil,
distributor igniter, or the rotor falling off, due to a
rather notorious failed set screw. Now at some point, and
your car might be there, the housing as a whole develops
deficiencies. E.g. at its wire harness; at its the seals
between it and the engine head; the female side of the
aforementioned screw in the distributor shaft; etc.
This shop should state exactly what part of the distributor
they believe to have failed. They should indicate whether
the job includes a new igniter and new coil. It need not
necessarily include these.
It is a fairly simple replacement. It is the parts that
cost.
$500 total is not bad if it includes housing, igniter, and
coil.
Use ONLY OEM for this job. Aftermarket distributor parts do
not hold up well with Hondas.
Consider new OEM ignition wires and a new distributor rotor
as well.
From my experience with my 91 Civic and reading here for
years, Hondas go through at least one distributor housing in
their lives. My 91 Civic is on its second housing.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and
> wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start
> problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor
> cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it
> towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They
> estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on
> the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit
> place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the
> price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an
> Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than
> their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts
> into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple
> operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and
> replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
Hondas of this vintage. The cause of an engine not starting
or stalling is often either the distributor coil,
distributor igniter, or the rotor falling off, due to a
rather notorious failed set screw. Now at some point, and
your car might be there, the housing as a whole develops
deficiencies. E.g. at its wire harness; at its the seals
between it and the engine head; the female side of the
aforementioned screw in the distributor shaft; etc.
This shop should state exactly what part of the distributor
they believe to have failed. They should indicate whether
the job includes a new igniter and new coil. It need not
necessarily include these.
It is a fairly simple replacement. It is the parts that
cost.
$500 total is not bad if it includes housing, igniter, and
coil.
Use ONLY OEM for this job. Aftermarket distributor parts do
not hold up well with Hondas.
Consider new OEM ignition wires and a new distributor rotor
as well.
From my experience with my 91 Civic and reading here for
years, Hondas go through at least one distributor housing in
their lives. My 91 Civic is on its second housing.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote
> 95 Integra GSR; 160k miles
>
> This past Friday on the way to work the car stalled and
> wouldn't
> re-start. SInce it was rainy and I had a wet-weather start
> problem some
> years ago I thought it might have been the distributor
> cap, so I
> replaced that; when the car still wouldn't start I had it
> towed to a
> nearby fixit place.
>
> Their diagnosis was: the distributor had failed. They
> estimated $500
> for a new distributor, and I choked and agreed to it.
>
> Then I looked up distributor replacements for this car on
> the web and
> saw them ranging from $180 to $320. I called the fixit
> place back and
> challenged them on it; the desk guy couldn't explain the
> price
> difference. We agreed to wave off until he could call an
> Acura place
> for a parts quote, thinking it would be different than
> their
> after-market supplier's price.
>
> My question: is the distributor a modular part that bolts
> into place,
> or is there more to it than this? If it's a fairly simple
> operation I'm
> tempted to tell these guys to go soak their heads and
> replace it
> myself.
>
> I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going down to have a
chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust these guys
technically (based on some dubious past experience) and I'm tempted to
tow it away from their shop before I let them get to deeply into it.
chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust these guys
technically (based on some dubious past experience) and I'm tempted to
tow it away from their shop before I let them get to deeply into it.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going down to have a
chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust these guys
technically (based on some dubious past experience) and I'm tempted to
tow it away from their shop before I let them get to deeply into it.
chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust these guys
technically (based on some dubious past experience) and I'm tempted to
tow it away from their shop before I let them get to deeply into it.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going down to have a
chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust these guys
technically (based on some dubious past experience) and I'm tempted to
tow it away from their shop before I let them get to deeply into it.
chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust these guys
technically (based on some dubious past experience) and I'm tempted to
tow it away from their shop before I let them get to deeply into it.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Be aware that they may simply be trying to avoid a comeback.
This is reasonable, IMO.
I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
extraordinarily unacceptable.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> down to have a
> chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> these guys
> technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> I'm tempted to
> tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> deeply into it.
>
This is reasonable, IMO.
I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
extraordinarily unacceptable.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> down to have a
> chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> these guys
> technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> I'm tempted to
> tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> deeply into it.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Be aware that they may simply be trying to avoid a comeback.
This is reasonable, IMO.
I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
extraordinarily unacceptable.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> down to have a
> chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> these guys
> technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> I'm tempted to
> tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> deeply into it.
>
This is reasonable, IMO.
I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
extraordinarily unacceptable.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> down to have a
> chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> these guys
> technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> I'm tempted to
> tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> deeply into it.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Be aware that they may simply be trying to avoid a comeback.
This is reasonable, IMO.
I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
extraordinarily unacceptable.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> down to have a
> chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> these guys
> technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> I'm tempted to
> tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> deeply into it.
>
This is reasonable, IMO.
I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
extraordinarily unacceptable.
"Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> down to have a
> chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> these guys
> technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> I'm tempted to
> tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> deeply into it.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Yeah, been there meself. 92 Honda, won't idle nicely, lopes or stays
high. I figure, idle speed gadjet like with every other car that has
this problem, but decide to take it to local mechanic who's pretty
good. End up with new distributor (not OEM) for $500. Now I have loping
idle and no VTEC and check engine light. Take it to another mechanic;
"new" distributor has position sensor broken off inside. Can't be
something that happened after distributor was assembled. Original
mechanic can't/won't get refund for me on said distributor; end up
cannbilizing old distributor. Now car only has lopey idle. Turns out to
be the idle speed gadget. Wow, what a surprise.
Elle wrote:
> Be aware that they may simply be trying to avoid a comeback.
> This is reasonable, IMO.
>
> I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
> problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
> fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
> new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
> later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
> out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
> they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
> old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
> about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
> had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
> unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
> extraordinarily unacceptable.
>
> "Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> > down to have a
> > chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> > these guys
> > technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> > I'm tempted to
> > tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> > deeply into it.
> >
high. I figure, idle speed gadjet like with every other car that has
this problem, but decide to take it to local mechanic who's pretty
good. End up with new distributor (not OEM) for $500. Now I have loping
idle and no VTEC and check engine light. Take it to another mechanic;
"new" distributor has position sensor broken off inside. Can't be
something that happened after distributor was assembled. Original
mechanic can't/won't get refund for me on said distributor; end up
cannbilizing old distributor. Now car only has lopey idle. Turns out to
be the idle speed gadget. Wow, what a surprise.
Elle wrote:
> Be aware that they may simply be trying to avoid a comeback.
> This is reasonable, IMO.
>
> I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
> problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
> fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
> new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
> later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
> out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
> they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
> old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
> about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
> had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
> unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
> extraordinarily unacceptable.
>
> "Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> > down to have a
> > chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> > these guys
> > technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> > I'm tempted to
> > tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> > deeply into it.
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is "the distributor" a bolt-on modular item?
Yeah, been there meself. 92 Honda, won't idle nicely, lopes or stays
high. I figure, idle speed gadjet like with every other car that has
this problem, but decide to take it to local mechanic who's pretty
good. End up with new distributor (not OEM) for $500. Now I have loping
idle and no VTEC and check engine light. Take it to another mechanic;
"new" distributor has position sensor broken off inside. Can't be
something that happened after distributor was assembled. Original
mechanic can't/won't get refund for me on said distributor; end up
cannbilizing old distributor. Now car only has lopey idle. Turns out to
be the idle speed gadget. Wow, what a surprise.
Elle wrote:
> Be aware that they may simply be trying to avoid a comeback.
> This is reasonable, IMO.
>
> I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
> problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
> fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
> new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
> later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
> out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
> they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
> old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
> about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
> had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
> unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
> extraordinarily unacceptable.
>
> "Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> > down to have a
> > chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> > these guys
> > technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> > I'm tempted to
> > tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> > deeply into it.
> >
high. I figure, idle speed gadjet like with every other car that has
this problem, but decide to take it to local mechanic who's pretty
good. End up with new distributor (not OEM) for $500. Now I have loping
idle and no VTEC and check engine light. Take it to another mechanic;
"new" distributor has position sensor broken off inside. Can't be
something that happened after distributor was assembled. Original
mechanic can't/won't get refund for me on said distributor; end up
cannbilizing old distributor. Now car only has lopey idle. Turns out to
be the idle speed gadget. Wow, what a surprise.
Elle wrote:
> Be aware that they may simply be trying to avoid a comeback.
> This is reasonable, IMO.
>
> I griped several years ago about a shop that insisted the
> problem with my 91 Honda's distributor was the jury-rigged
> fix I'd done on the rotor set screw problem. They slapped a
> new housing (salvaging the old coil and igniter) on. A week
> later the stalling problem I'd been having recurred. Turned
> out a new coil was in fact needed. At the time I figured
> they'd taken me for around $500. In hindsight, though, the
> old housing was pretty beat up, so I am more charitable
> about their decision. Though it still annoys me that they
> had the gall of accusing my jury-rigged fix as being
> unacceptable. Wrong-o. Their first diagnosis was
> extraordinarily unacceptable.
>
> "Dave O" <CycleZen@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1168266046.013864.140110@11g2000cwr.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks, Jim Beam and Elle, for your thoughts. I'm going
> > down to have a
> > chat with them about this now. Honestly I don't trust
> > these guys
> > technically (based on some dubious past experience) and
> > I'm tempted to
> > tow it away from their shop before I let them get to
> > deeply into it.
> >
