Grumpy AuContraire

This may be a similar regulator that I am familiar with.


http://www.skygeek.com/5401.html


JT




Paul S wrote:
>
> Wow...that sounds pretty neat. I wish one were available too. - Paul
>
>
>>In aircraft manufacturing, a simple device is used that fits on air
>>tools between the tool and the incoming air line. It is a simple
>>"volume" control that is adjustable from full on to full off by a series
>>of click stops. Sure wish such was readily available on the "civilian"
>>market...
>>
>>JT
>
>
>

Paul S

Looks like a great idea for people who don't already have a dial type
regulator on their compressor. - Paul.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 23:50:52 GMT, Grumpy AuContraire
<Grumpy@ExtraGrumpyville.com> wrote:

>This may be a similar regulator that I am familiar with.
>
>
>http://www.skygeek.com/5401.html
>
>
>JT
>
>
>
>
>Paul S wrote:
>>
>> Wow...that sounds pretty neat. I wish one were available too. - Paul
>>
>>
>>>In aircraft manufacturing, a simple device is used that fits on air
>>>tools between the tool and the incoming air line. It is a simple
>>>"volume" control that is adjustable from full on to full off by a series
>>>of click stops. Sure wish such was readily available on the "civilian"
>>>market...
>>>
>>>JT
>>
>>
>>

Michael Pardee

"Paul S" <pauls@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vrbd131ub67e8l679pg7ltc36jmbupr944@4ax.com...
>
> Hi To G-Man and Everyone Else Who Was Nice Enough to Respond About My
> Stuck Oil Drain Bolt Issue:
>
> I finally got the bolt off today!! Hurray!! It's the simple things in
> life..... No, actually it was the air gun, which worked like magic at
> 75 psi. It's a great tool, as long as you use it to take the bolt off
> but not to put it on. No sign of any leaks yet with the new oil, but
> I'll keep watching just in case. Looks like I may have dodged a
> bullet. Replaced the washer, painted some anti-seize compound on the
> threads of the new bolt, and hand torqued it to 33 foot pounds,
>
> Thanks again! - Paul.
>
>
I wouldn't have guessed you'd get off that lightly, but let's celebrate
victories when the fates allow!

Mike

Paul S

Thanks, Mike...I am definitely celebrating the fact that I won't have
to go through the hassle of another oil pan. I topped things off with
a brand new Bosch Premium oil filter, and I'm good to go....ready for
the trans-Canada highway this summer and another 185,000 miles. And
speaking of miles, I am determined to take this '92 accord past the
half million mark - it's an ego thing! Thanks again for your help and
encouragement. - Paul

On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 20:32:36 -0700, "Michael Pardee"
<michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote:

>"Paul S" <pauls@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:vrbd131ub67e8l679pg7ltc36jmbupr944@4ax.com.. .
>>
>> Hi To G-Man and Everyone Else Who Was Nice Enough to Respond About My
>> Stuck Oil Drain Bolt Issue:
>>
>> I finally got the bolt off today!! Hurray!!
>>
>> Thanks again! - Paul.
>>
>>
>I wouldn't have guessed you'd get off that lightly, but let's celebrate
>victories when the fates allow!
>
>Mike
>
>

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 17:08:56 -0700, Michael Pardee wrote:

> "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno@AE86.gts> wrote in message
> news:dhfRh.14733$IY4.12637@trndny03...
>> On Wed, 04 Apr 2007 19:38:14 -0700, Michael Pardee wrote:
>>
>>> "Linuxiac" <"at yahoo.com "> wrote in message
>>> news:4613e68d$0$17191$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>>>>
>>>> Righty, tightly, lefty, loosey
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Or, clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen. Except, on
>>>> Nash Ramblers built before 1968, on the driver's side wheel spindle!
>>>> They used left hand threads on many cars built before 1970, on the
>>>> Left Side of the vehicles, on the wheel spindles.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> And the driver's side lug nuts on old Chryslers. The first car I drove
>>> was
>>> my mother's '64 Dodge, and when it had a driver's wheel flat I thought
>>> I was just too weak to get it off. Then somebody told me about the
>>> threads....
>>>
>>> Mike
>>
>>
>> AAAARGH! I was getting a friend's 66 Chrysler 'Special' (It was an
>> Unmarked Luxo-barge for Government use) ready for the summer and
>> couldn't get the lug nuts off. He called and asked how it was going.
>> Fine, except...
>>
>> Guess you don't know the lug nuts on that side are LHT, do you?
>>
>>
>>
> But it sure builds up manly muscles trying to get them loose. At least it
> feels that way.


LOL! I knew I wasn't THAT much of a wimp!

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 17:36:53 +0000, Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

>
>
> Michael Pardee wrote:
>
>> "Paul S" <pauls@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:j66b13hqu6ebfcskor9a7voiv573n3qf6i@4ax.com...
>>
>>>Hi: Yes, I was going counterclockwise on a Honda, so I think the
>>>direction is correct. I was thinking of trying an air impact gun to get
>>>the bolt off (using a 1/2 in. drive and a steel impact socket), but I'm
>>>not sure how much PSI to start out with. 90 PSI coming out of the
>>>compressor translates to about 400 PSI out of the gun, so I guess it's
>>>about 1:4 in vs. out. Anyone happen to know how much PSI (out of the
>>>gun) I should start out with? That's assuming, of course, that it's
>>>alright to "fight fire with fire" by using the air gun at all. Thanks. -
>>>Paul S.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I'd be eyeing the air gun at this point, too. I fear the threads in the
>> pan are already in bad shape, and that the plug has been fastened in. I
>> hope it isn't epoxy!
>>
>> The advantage of the air gun is that you are delivering straight torque
>> rather than levering it. Even sockets want to lift unless you can apply
>> the same amount of support as you are applying torque. As long as the
>> impact socket is a nice fit and it can be set on straight rather than a
>> bit cocked I'd go that way. The torque is nowhere near linear with air
>> pressure; 40 PSI is probably a good starting point. I doubt you would
>> even get impact action at that pressure, but you can always go up :-)
>>
>> If the plug is fastened in or badly cross-threaded or both, all is not
>> lost. NAPA carries drain plugs for Hondas in single and double oversize.
>> There are complications, but let's hope for the best.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
> In aircraft manufacturing, a simple device is used that fits on air tools
> between the tool and the incoming air line. It is a simple "volume"
> control that is adjustable from full on to full off by a series of click
> stops. Sure wish such was readily available on the "civilian" market...
>
> JT


They are, you have to look. And they aren't cheap!

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 17:04:06 -0400, Paul S wrote:

>
> Hi To G-Man and Everyone Else Who Was Nice Enough to Respond About My
> Stuck Oil Drain Bolt Issue:
>
> I finally got the bolt off today!! Hurray!! It's the simple things in
> life..... No, actually it was the air gun, which worked like magic at 75
> psi. It's a great tool, as long as you use it to take the bolt off but not
> to put it on. No sign of any leaks yet with the new oil, but I'll keep
> watching just in case. Looks like I may have dodged a bullet. Replaced the
> washer, painted some anti-seize compound on the threads of the new bolt,
> and hand torqued it to 33 foot pounds,
>
> Thanks again! - Paul.


Great. Glad to hear you didn't have to shell for a new Oil Pan. What a
PITA!

Congrats! (A job well done feels good, doesn't it? No matter how much
huffing and puffing and cursing it took along the way!



>
>
> On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 14:49:56 -0400, "G-Man" <g_foreman@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>Actually my air gun has an adjustment like that on it.
>>
>>G-Man
>>
>>
>>> In aircraft manufacturing, a simple device is used that fits on air
>>> tools between the tool and the incoming air line. It is a simple
>>> "volume" control that is adjustable from full on to full off by a
>>> series of click stops. Sure wish such was readily available on the
>>> "civilian" market...
>>>
>>> JT
>>>
>>>
>>

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 22:28:03 -0400, Paul S wrote:

>
> Thank you Mike for your very helpful post. I have a Campbell Hausfeld
> compressor that goes up to 100 psi (just used it to repaint the hood of my
> '92 accord...THAT was difficult), so like you say it's probably best to
> start low with the air pressure and gradually work my way up. I'll let you
> guys know how it goes tomorrow. - Paul.


How did the paint come out, and what kind of gun do you have? I bought a
fairly expensive Craftsman compressor (150 PSI/ 45/90CFM) for two reasons:
DA sander and spray gun. The DA definitely needs it, and the best gun I
can find is about 40 CFM @ 45 PSI!



>
> On Thu, 5 Apr 2007 19:20:36 -0700, "Michael Pardee"
> <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote:
>
>>"Paul S" <pauls@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:j66b13hqu6ebfcskor9a7voiv573n3qf6i@4ax.com. ..
>>>
>>> Hi: Yes, I was going counterclockwise on a Honda, so I think the
>>> direction is correct. I was thinking of trying an air impact gun to get
>>> the bolt off (using a 1/2 in. drive and a steel impact socket), but I'm
>>> not sure how much PSI to start out with. 90 PSI coming out of the
>>> compressor translates to about 400 PSI out of the gun, so I guess it's
>>> about 1:4 in vs. out. Anyone happen to know how much PSI (out of the
>>> gun) I should start out with? That's assuming, of course, that it's
>>> alright to "fight fire with fire" by using the air gun at all. Thanks.
>>> - Paul S.
>>>
>>>
>>I'd be eyeing the air gun at this point, too. I fear the threads in the
>>pan are already in bad shape, and that the plug has been fastened in. I
>>hope it isn't epoxy!
>>
>>The advantage of the air gun is that you are delivering straight torque
>>rather than levering it. Even sockets want to lift unless you can apply
>>the same amount of support as you are applying torque. As long as the
>>impact socket is a nice fit and it can be set on straight rather than a
>>bit cocked I'd go that way. The torque is nowhere near linear with air
>>pressure; 40 PSI is probably a good starting point. I doubt you would
>>even get impact action at that pressure, but you can always go up :-)
>>
>>If the plug is fastened in or badly cross-threaded or both, all is not
>>lost. NAPA carries drain plugs for Hondas in single and double oversize.
>>There are complications, but let's hope for the best.
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>

Grumpy AuContraire

Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒã‚¯ wrote:
> On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 17:36:53 +0000, Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Michael Pardee wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Paul S" <pauls@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:j66b13hqu6ebfcskor9a7voiv573n3qf6i@4ax.com ...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hi: Yes, I was going counterclockwise on a Honda, so I think the
>>>>direction is correct. I was thinking of trying an air impact gun to get
>>>>the bolt off (using a 1/2 in. drive and a steel impact socket), but I'm
>>>>not sure how much PSI to start out with. 90 PSI coming out of the
>>>>compressor translates to about 400 PSI out of the gun, so I guess it's
>>>>about 1:4 in vs. out. Anyone happen to know how much PSI (out of the
>>>>gun) I should start out with? That's assuming, of course, that it's
>>>>alright to "fight fire with fire" by using the air gun at all. Thanks. -
>>>>Paul S.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>I'd be eyeing the air gun at this point, too. I fear the threads in the
>>>pan are already in bad shape, and that the plug has been fastened in. I
>>>hope it isn't epoxy!
>>>
>>>The advantage of the air gun is that you are delivering straight torque
>>>rather than levering it. Even sockets want to lift unless you can apply
>>>the same amount of support as you are applying torque. As long as the
>>>impact socket is a nice fit and it can be set on straight rather than a
>>>bit cocked I'd go that way. The torque is nowhere near linear with air
>>>pressure; 40 PSI is probably a good starting point. I doubt you would
>>>even get impact action at that pressure, but you can always go up :-)
>>>
>>>If the plug is fastened in or badly cross-threaded or both, all is not
>>>lost. NAPA carries drain plugs for Hondas in single and double oversize.
>>>There are complications, but let's hope for the best.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>In aircraft manufacturing, a simple device is used that fits on air tools
>>between the tool and the incoming air line. It is a simple "volume"
>>control that is adjustable from full on to full off by a series of click
>>stops. Sure wish such was readily available on the "civilian" market...
>>
>>JT
>
>
>
> They are, you have to look. And they aren't cheap!
>



But they are... Under $7 for consumer version and about $12 for the
professional version.

JT

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

On Sat, 07 Apr 2007 18:37:24 +0000, Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

>
>
> Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒã‚¯ wrote:
>> On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 17:36:53 +0000, Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"Paul S" <pauls@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:j66b13hqu6ebfcskor9a7voiv573n3qf6i@4ax.co m...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Hi: Yes, I was going counterclockwise on a Honda, so I think the
>>>>>direction is correct. I was thinking of trying an air impact gun to
>>>>>get the bolt off (using a 1/2 in. drive and a steel impact socket),
>>>>>but I'm not sure how much PSI to start out with. 90 PSI coming out of
>>>>>the compressor translates to about 400 PSI out of the gun, so I guess
>>>>>it's about 1:4 in vs. out. Anyone happen to know how much PSI (out of
>>>>>the gun) I should start out with? That's assuming, of course, that
>>>>>it's alright to "fight fire with fire" by using the air gun at all.
>>>>>Thanks. - Paul S.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>I'd be eyeing the air gun at this point, too. I fear the threads in the
>>>>pan are already in bad shape, and that the plug has been fastened in. I
>>>>hope it isn't epoxy!
>>>>
>>>>The advantage of the air gun is that you are delivering straight torque
>>>>rather than levering it. Even sockets want to lift unless you can apply
>>>>the same amount of support as you are applying torque. As long as the
>>>>impact socket is a nice fit and it can be set on straight rather than a
>>>>bit cocked I'd go that way. The torque is nowhere near linear with air
>>>>pressure; 40 PSI is probably a good starting point. I doubt you would
>>>>even get impact action at that pressure, but you can always go up :-)
>>>>
>>>>If the plug is fastened in or badly cross-threaded or both, all is not
>>>>lost. NAPA carries drain plugs for Hondas in single and double
>>>>oversize. There are complications, but let's hope for the best.
>>>>
>>>>Mike
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>In aircraft manufacturing, a simple device is used that fits on air
>>>tools between the tool and the incoming air line. It is a simple
>>>"volume" control that is adjustable from full on to full off by a series
>>>of click stops. Sure wish such was readily available on the "civilian"
>>>market...
>>>
>>>JT
>>
>>
>>
>> They are, you have to look. And they aren't cheap!
>>
>>
>
>
> But they are... Under $7 for consumer version and about $12 for the
> professional version.
>
> JT


I just bought my first compressor. The last place I used one of those
setups was...at an Aircraft Accessories MFG, using shop air to test things
like starter solenoids, etc...

Paul S

Hi - I used a Mastercraft gravity fed gun at 35 psi for this job.
There was the whole adjustment thing with the paint feed, airflow, and
spray pattern which had to be reckoned with, so I practiced for awhile
in the back yard on sheet metal. This was a repaint of a rosewood
brown colored hood on my '92 accord, and the OEM shade variations on
the swatches were a bit tricky in terms of a good match. Especially
with all the sun-related fade, since this car spent most of its life
in North Carolina. Maybe a custom scan would have been better, as you
can still see the shade difference on the finished hood at night under
fluorescents. It's not that big of a deal, but it is noticeable if you
look for it. Since it was a hood, the fenders had to be blended along
with putting on new striping. I never realized the extent to which
automotive painting is such a subtle skill, and it was difficult
learning how to slowly build up mist-like layers of the primer and
paint without going too fast. By the time I made it to the clear coat
phase, I felt like I'd earned my pay. The repaint wasn't perfect, but
it was a first for me in terms of body work, and I think in that
capacity it turned out pretty well. As you say, there is no greater
satisfaction than doing a job like this yourself...regardless of how
things evolve, you never stop learning. And of course, there's always
next time to do it even better! - Paul

On Sat, 07 Apr 2007 17:44:21 GMT, Hachiroku ???? <Trueno@AE86.gts>
wrote:

>On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 22:28:03 -0400, Paul S wrote:
>
>>
>> Thank you Mike for your very helpful post. I have a Campbell Hausfeld
>> compressor that goes up to 100 psi (just used it to repaint the hood of my
>> '92 accord...THAT was difficult), so like you say it's probably best to
>> start low with the air pressure and gradually work my way up. I'll let you
>> guys know how it goes tomorrow. - Paul.
>
>
>How did the paint come out, and what kind of gun do you have? I bought a
>fairly expensive Craftsman compressor (150 PSI/ 45/90CFM) for two reasons:
>DA sander and spray gun. The DA definitely needs it, and the best gun I
>can find is about 40 CFM @ 45 PSI!
>
>

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

On Sat, 07 Apr 2007 18:13:42 -0400, Paul S wrote:

>
> Hi - I used a Mastercraft gravity fed gun at 35 psi for this job. There
> was the whole adjustment thing with the paint feed, airflow, and spray
> pattern which had to be reckoned with, so I practiced for awhile in the
> back yard on sheet metal. This was a repaint of a rosewood brown colored
> hood on my '92 accord, and the OEM shade variations on the swatches were a
> bit tricky in terms of a good match. Especially with all the sun-related
> fade, since this car spent most of its life in North Carolina. Maybe a
> custom scan would have been better, as you can still see the shade
> difference on the finished hood at night under fluorescents. It's not that
> big of a deal, but it is noticeable if you look for it. Since it was a
> hood, the fenders had to be blended along with putting on new striping. I
> never realized the extent to which automotive painting is such a subtle
> skill, and it was difficult learning how to slowly build up mist-like
> layers of the primer and paint without going too fast. By the time I made
> it to the clear coat phase, I felt like I'd earned my pay. The repaint
> wasn't perfect, but it was a first for me in terms of body work, and I
> think in that capacity it turned out pretty well. As you say, there is no
> greater satisfaction than doing a job like this yourself...regardless of
> how things evolve, you never stop learning. And of course, there's always
> next time to do it even better! - Paul

Yeah, painting is an art and requires practice. I did the doors on a
Celica I had and tried to match the fade, but didn't work. The upper part
of the door matched the lower (unpainted) part, but the doors looked
darker than the rest of the car.

Then I did three cars, a VW for the boss' friend, a pickup for the boss,
and an '83 Tercel AWD Wagon. These were complete, so there wasn't any
blending to do. By the time I got to my Tercel, it was fantastic. I used
Urethane with a Pearl topcoat, in yellow. LOL! THe car glowed in the dark!
But I drove it mostly at night in the winter, so this was a Good Thing!

Urethane is great; not quite as easy as BC/CC, but when it cures you can
wet sand it and buff it and the finish looks (IMHO) at least as good as a
Clear Coat finish!




>
> On Sat, 07 Apr 2007 17:44:21 GMT, Hachiroku ???? <Trueno@AE86.gts> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 22:28:03 -0400, Paul S wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Thank you Mike for your very helpful post. I have a Campbell Hausfeld
>>> compressor that goes up to 100 psi (just used it to repaint the hood of
>>> my '92 accord...THAT was difficult), so like you say it's probably best
>>> to start low with the air pressure and gradually work my way up. I'll
>>> let you guys know how it goes tomorrow. - Paul.
>>
>>
>>How did the paint come out, and what kind of gun do you have? I bought a
>>fairly expensive Craftsman compressor (150 PSI/ 45/90CFM) for two
>>reasons: DA sander and spray gun. The DA definitely needs it, and the
>>best gun I can find is about 40 CFM @ 45 PSI!
>>
>>
>>