Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
> thank you for the advice. It seems
> it was the ignition switch.
>
> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
> before putting it to place and the car started
> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>
> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
> to put it to place.
>
> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
> key now
>
> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
> fuse box
>
> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
> the fuse
>
> box burned.
>
> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
> of the battery(!).
>
> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>
> 0. At "II" indicators will light
> 1. At "III" no crank
> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>
> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>
> michael
>
>
Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
> thank you for the advice. It seems
> it was the ignition switch.
>
> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
> before putting it to place and the car started
> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>
> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
> to put it to place.
>
> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
> key now
>
> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
> fuse box
>
> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
> the fuse
>
> box burned.
>
> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
> of the battery(!).
>
> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>
> 0. At "II" indicators will light
> 1. At "III" no crank
> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>
> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>
> michael
>
>
Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
> thank you for the advice. It seems
> it was the ignition switch.
>
> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
> before putting it to place and the car started
> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>
> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
> to put it to place.
>
> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
> key now
>
> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
> fuse box
>
> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
> the fuse
>
> box burned.
>
> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
> of the battery(!).
>
> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>
> 0. At "II" indicators will light
> 1. At "III" no crank
> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>
> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>
> michael
>
>
Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
> thank you for the advice. It seems
> it was the ignition switch.
>
> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
> before putting it to place and the car started
> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>
> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
> to put it to place.
>
> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
> key now
>
> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
> fuse box
>
> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
> the fuse
>
> box burned.
>
> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
> of the battery(!).
>
> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>
> 0. At "II" indicators will light
> 1. At "III" no crank
> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>
> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>
> michael
>
>
Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
> thank you for the advice. It seems
> it was the ignition switch.
>
> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
> before putting it to place and the car started
> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>
> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
> to put it to place.
>
> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
> key now
>
> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
> fuse box
>
> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
> the fuse
>
> box burned.
>
> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
> of the battery(!).
>
> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>
> 0. At "II" indicators will light
> 1. At "III" no crank
> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>
> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>
> michael
>
>
Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
> thank you for the advice. It seems
> it was the ignition switch.
>
> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
> before putting it to place and the car started
> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>
> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
> to put it to place.
>
> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
> key now
>
> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
> fuse box
>
> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
> the fuse
>
> box burned.
>
> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
> of the battery(!).
>
> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>
> 0. At "II" indicators will light
> 1. At "III" no crank
> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>
> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>
> michael
>
>
Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Jim Yanik wrote:
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Jim Yanik wrote:
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Jim Yanik wrote:
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Jim Yanik wrote:
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
> michalis0@gmail.com wrote in
> news:1153520658.796650.323340@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> thank you for the advice. It seems
>> it was the ignition switch.
>>
>> I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver
>> before putting it to place and the car started
>> and the lights turned on when at position "II".
>>
>> To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know
>> people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!)
>> We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out.
>> Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very
>> long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again
>> to put it to place.
>>
>> Now for the bad news and to make the long story short...
>> It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place
>> the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we
>> put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch
>> prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the
>> key now
>>
>> ), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the
>> fuse box
>>
>> it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in
>> the fuse
>>
>> box burned.
>>
>> Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank
>> and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole
>> of the battery(!).
>>
>> After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad
>> was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
>>
>> 0. At "II" indicators will light
>> 1. At "III" no crank
>> 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole
>> 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems
>> to be burned. (will post picture if necessary)
>> 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
>>
>> Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now?
>> Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some
>> cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
>>
>> michael
>>
>>
>
> Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
>
> Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
>
for real! maybe the garage is inside his house...
to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know
what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have
helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone
that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning
on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your
home owners insurance paid?
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Without reading all the posts, I'll suggest the Honda method of swapping
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Without reading all the posts, I'll suggest the Honda method of swapping
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Without reading all the posts, I'll suggest the Honda method of swapping
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem
Without reading all the posts, I'll suggest the Honda method of swapping
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours.
Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
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