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Re: my civic and its timing belt
Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't argue
with results! I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether the belt has been replaced before! Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > Sorry I didn't get back to you. > A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on the > snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has bigger > hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. more force > goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we occasionally get the > stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried everyone's gun in the shop. > Sometimes some will work where another one won't. the 3/4 has always > worked. Once the shop downtown from us called asking if I still had such a > gun, they were fighting a crank bolt for several hours with a huge > compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the > job with no problem > I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give it > a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small > compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell you > if you are going to win. > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>> just-in-case. It always works >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen W. Hansen >>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >> What's the peak torque on that? >> >> Mike >> shade tree fixit man >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like a
waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't work try a bigger one. Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the reach you need. -- Stephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Auto Technician "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... > Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't argue > with results! > > I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll try > the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At least > there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive pneumatic > besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... > > As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether the > belt has been replaced before! > > Mike > > "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on the >> snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has bigger >> hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. more force >> goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we occasionally get the >> stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried everyone's gun in the shop. >> Sometimes some will work where another one won't. the 3/4 has always >> worked. Once the shop downtown from us called asking if I still had such >> a gun, they were fighting a crank bolt for several hours with a huge >> compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the >> job with no problem >> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give it >> a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >> you if you are going to win. >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>> >>>> >>> What's the peak torque on that? >>> >>> Mike >>> shade tree fixit man >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like a
waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't work try a bigger one. Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the reach you need. -- Stephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Auto Technician "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... > Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't argue > with results! > > I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll try > the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At least > there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive pneumatic > besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... > > As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether the > belt has been replaced before! > > Mike > > "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on the >> snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has bigger >> hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. more force >> goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we occasionally get the >> stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried everyone's gun in the shop. >> Sometimes some will work where another one won't. the 3/4 has always >> worked. Once the shop downtown from us called asking if I still had such >> a gun, they were fighting a crank bolt for several hours with a huge >> compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the >> job with no problem >> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give it >> a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >> you if you are going to win. >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>> >>>> >>> What's the peak torque on that? >>> >>> Mike >>> shade tree fixit man >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit I
can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like a > waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the > pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx last > week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't work try > a bigger one. > Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. preferably > a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the reach you need. > > -- > Stephen W. Hansen > ASE Certified Auto Technician > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >> argue with results! >> >> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >> >> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether the >> belt has been replaced before! >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on the >>> snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has bigger >>> hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. more force >>> goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we occasionally get the >>> stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried everyone's gun in the shop. >>> Sometimes some will work where another one won't. the 3/4 has always >>> worked. Once the shop downtown from us called asking if I still had such >>> a gun, they were fighting a crank bolt for several hours with a huge >>> compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the >>> job with no problem >>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>> you if you are going to win. >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>> >>>>> >>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> shade tree fixit man >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit I
can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like a > waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the > pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx last > week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't work try > a bigger one. > Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. preferably > a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the reach you need. > > -- > Stephen W. Hansen > ASE Certified Auto Technician > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >> argue with results! >> >> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >> >> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether the >> belt has been replaced before! >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on the >>> snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has bigger >>> hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. more force >>> goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we occasionally get the >>> stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried everyone's gun in the shop. >>> Sometimes some will work where another one won't. the 3/4 has always >>> worked. Once the shop downtown from us called asking if I still had such >>> a gun, they were fighting a crank bolt for several hours with a huge >>> compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the >>> job with no problem >>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>> you if you are going to win. >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>> >>>>> >>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> shade tree fixit man >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Perhaps 505 ft lbs!
There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a tool to use it once and never use it again. Keep us informed -- Stephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Auto Technician "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... > This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit > I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly > as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through > the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a > reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. > > If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd > think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do > the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually are > on these 10 year old factory originals! > > Mike > > "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like >> a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the >> pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx >> last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't >> work try a bigger one. >> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. preferably >> a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the reach you need. >> >> -- >> Stephen W. Hansen >> ASE Certified Auto Technician >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>> argue with results! >>> >>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>> >>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether the >>> belt has been replaced before! >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. more >>>> force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we occasionally get >>>> the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried everyone's gun in the >>>> shop. Sometimes some will work where another one won't. the 3/4 has >>>> always worked. Once the shop downtown from us called asking if I still >>>> had such a gun, they were fighting a crank bolt for several hours with >>>> a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch guns. No success. Big Bertha >>>> did the job with no problem >>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>>> you if you are going to win. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Perhaps 505 ft lbs!
There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a tool to use it once and never use it again. Keep us informed -- Stephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Auto Technician "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... > This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit > I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly > as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through > the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a > reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. > > If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd > think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do > the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually are > on these 10 year old factory originals! > > Mike > > "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like >> a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the >> pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx >> last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't >> work try a bigger one. >> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. preferably >> a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the reach you need. >> >> -- >> Stephen W. Hansen >> ASE Certified Auto Technician >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>> argue with results! >>> >>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>> >>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether the >>> belt has been replaced before! >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. more >>>> force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we occasionally get >>>> the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried everyone's gun in the >>>> shop. Sometimes some will work where another one won't. the 3/4 has >>>> always worked. Once the shop downtown from us called asking if I still >>>> had such a gun, they were fighting a crank bolt for several hours with >>>> a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch guns. No success. Big Bertha >>>> did the job with no problem >>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>>> you if you are going to win. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > Perhaps 505 ft lbs! LOL! Darned evil spirits may have their way with me yet! > There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, > and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a > tool to use it once and never use it again. > Keep us informed Will do. The tool came in the mail yesterday, and we should have a shot at it in the next few days. > > > -- > Stephen W. Hansen > ASE Certified Auto Technician > > > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit >> I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly >> as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through >> the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a >> reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. >> >> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do >> the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually >> are on these 10 year old factory originals! >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like >>> a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the >>> pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx >>> last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't >>> work try a bigger one. >>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>> reach you need. >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen W. Hansen >>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>> argue with results! >>>> >>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>> >>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another one >>>>> won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>> guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>>>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>>>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>>>> you if you are going to win. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike >>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > Perhaps 505 ft lbs! LOL! Darned evil spirits may have their way with me yet! > There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, > and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a > tool to use it once and never use it again. > Keep us informed Will do. The tool came in the mail yesterday, and we should have a shot at it in the next few days. > > > -- > Stephen W. Hansen > ASE Certified Auto Technician > > > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit >> I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly >> as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through >> the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a >> reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. >> >> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do >> the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually >> are on these 10 year old factory originals! >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like >>> a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the >>> pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx >>> last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't >>> work try a bigger one. >>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>> reach you need. >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen W. Hansen >>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>> argue with results! >>>> >>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>> >>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another one >>>>> won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>> guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>>>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>>>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>>>> you if you are going to win. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike >>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a 90
psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! The torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I might not feel that way. Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > Perhaps 505 ft lbs! > There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, > and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a > tool to use it once and never use it again. > Keep us informed > > > -- > Stephen W. Hansen > ASE Certified Auto Technician > > > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit >> I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly >> as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through >> the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a >> reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. >> >> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do >> the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually >> are on these 10 year old factory originals! >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like >>> a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the >>> pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx >>> last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't >>> work try a bigger one. >>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>> reach you need. >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen W. Hansen >>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>> argue with results! >>>> >>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>> >>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another one >>>>> won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>> guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>>>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>>>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>>>> you if you are going to win. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike >>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a 90
psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! The torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I might not feel that way. Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > Perhaps 505 ft lbs! > There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, > and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a > tool to use it once and never use it again. > Keep us informed > > > -- > Stephen W. Hansen > ASE Certified Auto Technician > > > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the benefit >> I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft as firmly >> as possible in order to prevent the impact from being distributed through >> the power train. In any event, the tool is on its way. There must be a >> reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and prescribed a tool to use. >> >> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should do >> the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there actually >> are on these 10 year old factory originals! >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems like >>> a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold the >>> pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan 300zx >>> last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have didn't >>> work try a bigger one. >>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>> reach you need. >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen W. Hansen >>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>> argue with results! >>>> >>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>> >>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another one >>>>> won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>> guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and give >>>>> it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a small >>>>> compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds will tell >>>>> you if you are going to win. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike >>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it
out Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not off a tooth. On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. Steve "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... > Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a > 90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came > loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, > but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when > the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. > > My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank > bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! The > torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a > definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I > do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I > might not feel that way. > > Mike > > "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >> There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, >> and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a >> tool to use it once and never use it again. >> Keep us informed >> >> >> -- >> Stephen W. Hansen >> ASE Certified Auto Technician >> >> >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>> benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>> as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>> distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>> way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>> prescribed a tool to use. >>> >>> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>> do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>> actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>> like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold >>>> the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan >>>> 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have >>>> didn't work try a bigger one. >>>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>> reach you need. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>> argue with results! >>>>> >>>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>>> >>>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> >>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>> one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>>> guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>> give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>> small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>> will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Mike >>>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it
out Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not off a tooth. On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. Steve "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... > Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a > 90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came > loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, > but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when > the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. > > My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank > bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! The > torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a > definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I > do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I > might not feel that way. > > Mike > > "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >> There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, >> and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a >> tool to use it once and never use it again. >> Keep us informed >> >> >> -- >> Stephen W. Hansen >> ASE Certified Auto Technician >> >> >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>> benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>> as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>> distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>> way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>> prescribed a tool to use. >>> >>> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>> do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>> actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>> like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold >>>> the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan >>>> 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have >>>> didn't work try a bigger one. >>>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>> reach you need. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>> argue with results! >>>>> >>>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>>> try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>>> least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>>> pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>>> >>>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>>> >>>>> Mike >>>>> >>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>> one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>>> guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>> give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>> small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>> will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Mike >>>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
not sure about other manufacturers, but some of the euro fords have
belts that are marked up in this way from factory for exactly this purpose. Steve wrote: > I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it > out > Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt > and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam > and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, > lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new > belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not > off a tooth. > On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. > Steve > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... > >>Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a >>90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came >>loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, >>but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when >>the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. >> >>My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank >>bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! The >>torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a >>definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I >>do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I >>might not feel that way. >> >>Mike >> >>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> >>>Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >>>There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, >>>and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a >>>tool to use it once and never use it again. >>>Keep us informed >>> >>> >>>-- >>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>> >>>>This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>>>benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>>>as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>>>distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>>>way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>>>prescribed a tool to use. >>>> >>>>If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>>>think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>>>do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>>>actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>>> >>>>Mike >>>> >>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> >>>>>As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>>>like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold >>>>>the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan >>>>>300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have >>>>>didn't work try a bigger one. >>>>>Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>>>preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>>>reach you need. >>>>> >>>>>-- >>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>> >>>>>>Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>>>argue with results! >>>>>> >>>>>>I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>>>>try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>>>>least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>>>>pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>>>> >>>>>>As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>>>the belt has been replaced before! >>>>>> >>>>>>Mike >>>>>> >>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>> >>>>>>>Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>>>A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>>>the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>>>bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>>>more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>>>occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>>>everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>>>one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>>>called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>>>bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>>>>guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>>>I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>>>give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>>>small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>>>will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>> >>>>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>>news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>>>just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>-- >>>>>>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>Mike >>>>>>>>shade tree fixit man >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
not sure about other manufacturers, but some of the euro fords have
belts that are marked up in this way from factory for exactly this purpose. Steve wrote: > I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it > out > Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt > and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam > and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, > lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new > belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not > off a tooth. > On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. > Steve > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... > >>Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a >>90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came >>loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, >>but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when >>the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. >> >>My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank >>bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! The >>torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a >>definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I >>do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I >>might not feel that way. >> >>Mike >> >>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >> >>>Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >>>There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a car, >>>and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid buying a >>>tool to use it once and never use it again. >>>Keep us informed >>> >>> >>>-- >>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>> >>>>This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>>>benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>>>as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>>>distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>>>way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>>>prescribed a tool to use. >>>> >>>>If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>>>think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>>>do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>>>actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>>> >>>>Mike >>>> >>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>> >>>>>As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>>>like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to hold >>>>>the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in (Nissan >>>>>300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun you have >>>>>didn't work try a bigger one. >>>>>Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>>>preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>>>reach you need. >>>>> >>>>>-- >>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>> >>>>>>Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>>>argue with results! >>>>>> >>>>>>I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. I'll >>>>>>try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with that. At >>>>>>least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch drive >>>>>>pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are options.... >>>>>> >>>>>>As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>>>the belt has been replaced before! >>>>>> >>>>>>Mike >>>>>> >>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>> >>>>>>>Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>>>A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>>>the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>>>bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>>>more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>>>occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>>>everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>>>one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>>>called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>>>bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 inch >>>>>>>guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>>>I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>>>give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>>>small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>>>will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>> >>>>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>>news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>>>just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>-- >>>>>>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>Mike >>>>>>>>shade tree fixit man >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Good idea! Thanks, Steve. We tentatively have the deed planned for Sunday.
Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:Ordnd.35049$7i4.31106@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it >out > Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt > and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam > and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, > lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new > belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not > off a tooth. > On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. > Steve > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >> Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a >> 90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came >> loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, >> but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when >> the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. >> >> My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank >> bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! >> The torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a >> definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I >> do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I >> might not feel that way. >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >>> There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a >>> car, and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid >>> buying a tool to use it once and never use it again. >>> Keep us informed >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen W. Hansen >>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>>> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>>> benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>>> as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>>> distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>>> way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>>> prescribed a tool to use. >>>> >>>> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>>> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>>> do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>>> actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>>> like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to >>>>> hold the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in >>>>> (Nissan 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun >>>>> you have didn't work try a bigger one. >>>>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>>> reach you need. >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>>> argue with results! >>>>>> >>>>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. >>>>>> I'll try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with >>>>>> that. At least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch >>>>>> drive pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are >>>>>> options.... >>>>>> >>>>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike >>>>>> >>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>>> one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 >>>>>>> inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>>> give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>>> small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>>> will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mike >>>>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Good idea! Thanks, Steve. We tentatively have the deed planned for Sunday.
Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:Ordnd.35049$7i4.31106@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it >out > Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt > and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam > and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, > lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new > belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not > off a tooth. > On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. > Steve > > > > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message > news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >> Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a >> 90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came >> loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, >> but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when >> the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. >> >> My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank >> bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! >> The torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a >> definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I >> do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I >> might not feel that way. >> >> Mike >> >> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >>> There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a >>> car, and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid >>> buying a tool to use it once and never use it again. >>> Keep us informed >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen W. Hansen >>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>> news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>>> This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>>> benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>>> as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>>> distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>>> way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>>> prescribed a tool to use. >>>> >>>> If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>>> think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>>> do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>>> actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> >>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>>> like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to >>>>> hold the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in >>>>> (Nissan 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun >>>>> you have didn't work try a bigger one. >>>>> Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>>> preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>>> reach you need. >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>>> Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>>> argue with results! >>>>>> >>>>>> I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. >>>>>> I'll try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with >>>>>> that. At least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch >>>>>> drive pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are >>>>>> options.... >>>>>> >>>>>> As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>>> the belt has been replaced before! >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike >>>>>> >>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>> news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>>> A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>>> the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>>> bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>>> more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>>> occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>>> everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>>> one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>>> called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>>> bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 >>>>>>> inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>>> I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>>> give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>>> small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>>> will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>> news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>>> "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>> news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>>> It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>>> just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>> Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>>> ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mike >>>>>>>> shade tree fixit man >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >> > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Some do, and if the marks are easy to see on the pulley, it helps. a Subaru
with 4 cams was the only one where it paid. Some cars give you a wimpy mark on the plies, this method helps to overcome that problem. The car rolls into the shop running. Mark the old belt and pullies Transfer the marks over Install the new belt lining up the marks This car will start and is 100% timed Steve "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:lIKdnRdLwJPP8gDcRVn-jA@comcast.com... > not sure about other manufacturers, but some of the euro fords have belts > that are marked up in this way from factory for exactly this purpose. > > Steve wrote: >> I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got >> it out >> Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt >> and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the >> cam and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new >> belt, lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. >> put new belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you >> are not off a tooth. >> On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. >> Steve >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >> >>>Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a >>>90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came >>>loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, >>>but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when >>>the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. >>> >>>My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank >>>bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! >>>The torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a >>>definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I >>>do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I >>>might not feel that way. >>> >>>Mike >>> >>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> >>>>Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >>>>There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a >>>>car, and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid >>>>buying a tool to use it once and never use it again. >>>>Keep us informed >>>> >>>> >>>>-- >>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>>> >>>>>This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>>>>benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>>>>as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>>>>distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>>>>way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>>>>prescribed a tool to use. >>>>> >>>>>If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>>>>think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>>>>do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>>>>actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>>>> >>>>>Mike >>>>> >>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> >>>>>>As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>>>>like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to >>>>>>hold the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in >>>>>>(Nissan 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun >>>>>>you have didn't work try a bigger one. >>>>>>Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>>>>preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>>>>reach you need. >>>>>> >>>>>>-- >>>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>>> >>>>>>>Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>>>>argue with results! >>>>>>> >>>>>>>I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. >>>>>>>I'll try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with >>>>>>>that. At least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch >>>>>>>drive pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are >>>>>>>options.... >>>>>>> >>>>>>>As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>>>>the belt has been replaced before! >>>>>>> >>>>>>>Mike >>>>>>> >>>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> >>>>>>>>Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>>>>A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>>>>the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>>>>bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>>>>more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>>>>occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>>>>everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>>>>one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>>>>called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>>>>bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 >>>>>>>>inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>>>>I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>>>>give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>>>>small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>>>>will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>>news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>>>news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>>>>just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>-- >>>>>>>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>Mike >>>>>>>>>shade tree fixit man >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >> > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Some do, and if the marks are easy to see on the pulley, it helps. a Subaru
with 4 cams was the only one where it paid. Some cars give you a wimpy mark on the plies, this method helps to overcome that problem. The car rolls into the shop running. Mark the old belt and pullies Transfer the marks over Install the new belt lining up the marks This car will start and is 100% timed Steve "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:lIKdnRdLwJPP8gDcRVn-jA@comcast.com... > not sure about other manufacturers, but some of the euro fords have belts > that are marked up in this way from factory for exactly this purpose. > > Steve wrote: >> I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got >> it out >> Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt >> and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the >> cam and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new >> belt, lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. >> put new belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you >> are not off a tooth. >> On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. >> Steve >> >> >> >> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >> news:rLednZ5oKo9odAbcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >> >>>Okay! With the 500 ft-lb 1/2 inch drive impact, 130 psi in the hose and a >>>90 psi regulator at the tool, and a holding tool on the pulley, it came >>>loose. I didn't see if it started moving with the first 5 second burst, >>>but the second burst got it backing out freely. We also worked on it when >>>the engine was slightly warm, if that made a difference. >>> >>>My guess, drawing on your experience, Steve, is that many of the crank >>>bolts can be loosened that way. (This one may have been at 495 ft-lbs! >>>The torque spec is 130 ft-lbs, but that isn't what it was.) There is a >>>definite possibility some will need more than my setup would give, but I >>>do feel the $25 holding tool was worth the cost. When times are tighter I >>>might not feel that way. >>> >>>Mike >>> >>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>news:EXfmd.913280$Gx4.643590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>> >>>>Perhaps 505 ft lbs! >>>>There are a lot of Manufacture tools for specific little things in a >>>>car, and only a select few make it into my toolbox. I want to avoid >>>>buying a tool to use it once and never use it again. >>>>Keep us informed >>>> >>>> >>>>-- >>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>news:OuidnfYRRIdGBgXcRVn-sQ@sedona.net... >>>> >>>>>This bolt is indeed devilishly tight, and I'm looking for all the >>>>>benefit I can get. It makes sense to backstop the pulley or crankshaft >>>>>as firmly as possible in order to prevent the impact from being >>>>>distributed through the power train. In any event, the tool is on its >>>>>way. There must be a reason Honda made the fitment for the tool and >>>>>prescribed a tool to use. >>>>> >>>>>If my gun can't get it with the tool, I'll rent a bigger one. But I'd >>>>>think an honest 500 ft-lbs delivered to the bolt-crank junction should >>>>>do the trick. It would be interesting to know what torques there >>>>>actually are on these 10 year old factory originals! >>>>> >>>>>Mike >>>>> >>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>news:FmUld.906224$Gx4.325708@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>> >>>>>>As many timing belts as I have done, this "tool" your getting seems >>>>>>like a waste of money and time to me. The only time I've needed to >>>>>>hold the pulley was when there isn't enough room to fit a gun in >>>>>>(Nissan 300zx last week) A good gun WILL remove the bolt. If the gun >>>>>>you have didn't work try a bigger one. >>>>>>Also use as little extensions as possible, they reduce torque. >>>>>>preferably a socket on the gun, then step up until you just have the >>>>>>reach you need. >>>>>> >>>>>>-- >>>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>news:Z9ednUF8cpd-xgjcRVn-ug@sedona.net... >>>>>> >>>>>>>Thanks, Steve. That is interesting about the bigger hammers. I can't >>>>>>>argue with results! >>>>>>> >>>>>>>I've ordered a holder tool for the pulley to stiffen up the work. >>>>>>>I'll try the 500 ft-lb, 1/2 inch drive and at-tool regulator with >>>>>>>that. At least there is no hurry. The rental place also has a 1 inch >>>>>>>drive pneumatic besides the 3/4 inch drive electric. There are >>>>>>>options.... >>>>>>> >>>>>>>As my son mentions, this pretty much answers the question of whether >>>>>>>the belt has been replaced before! >>>>>>> >>>>>>>Mike >>>>>>> >>>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>news:uT5ld.890602$Gx4.248400@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>> >>>>>>>>Sorry I didn't get back to you. >>>>>>>>A 3/4 air gun sets around 750 ft lbs I believe. It was a used one on >>>>>>>>the snap-on truck, a central pneumatics I believe. A larger gun has >>>>>>>>bigger hammers, and doesn't beat you up as much as a 1/2 inch gun. >>>>>>>>more force goes into the socket. Working in a auto shop, we >>>>>>>>occasionally get the stubborn bolts, and on occasion have tried >>>>>>>>everyone's gun in the shop. Sometimes some will work where another >>>>>>>>one won't. the 3/4 has always worked. Once the shop downtown from us >>>>>>>>called asking if I still had such a gun, they were fighting a crank >>>>>>>>bolt for several hours with a huge compressor and a bunch of 1/2 >>>>>>>>inch guns. No success. Big Bertha did the job with no problem >>>>>>>>I wouldn't use heat on a crank. See if you can find a big gun and >>>>>>>>give it a try. Of coarse air supply is important, but usually on a >>>>>>>>small compressor, the initial trigger pull and the first 5 seconds >>>>>>>>will tell you if you are going to win. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>>news:woKdnVQPqoDBMw3cRVn-hQ@sedona.net... >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>"Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>>>>>news:JrYjd.868240$Gx4.741590@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>It's a good method, and will work sometimes. I have a 3/4 inch gun >>>>>>>>>>just-in-case. It always works >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>-- >>>>>>>>>>Stephen W. Hansen >>>>>>>>>>ASE Certified Auto Technician >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>What's the peak torque on that? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>Mike >>>>>>>>>shade tree fixit man >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >> > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Your tip was well worth the effort, Steve. When we lined up the camshafts
the spring of the intake cams at TDC made it a beast to verify we were correctly timed, but the marks assured us we were right. The fog factor got bad enough that I held the original belt up between the cam sprockets to make sure I'd transferred the marks correctly. (We used acrylic artist's paint because it was handy.) When we got the tensioner torqued down we pulled it through to #1 tdc and it was right on. I urged my son to get not only a water pump but the cam seals and front main seal and a new tensioner. The cost of the tensioner made him cringe, but the existing one sounded like a roller skate wheel when we got it out and there was significant wear on the outer surface of the belt. It made for a fairly long day, but we don't expect to be back in there anytime soon. Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:Ordnd.35049$7i4.31106@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it >out > Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt > and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam > and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, > lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new > belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not > off a tooth. > On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. > Steve > > |
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Your tip was well worth the effort, Steve. When we lined up the camshafts
the spring of the intake cams at TDC made it a beast to verify we were correctly timed, but the marks assured us we were right. The fog factor got bad enough that I held the original belt up between the cam sprockets to make sure I'd transferred the marks correctly. (We used acrylic artist's paint because it was handy.) When we got the tensioner torqued down we pulled it through to #1 tdc and it was right on. I urged my son to get not only a water pump but the cam seals and front main seal and a new tensioner. The cost of the tensioner made him cringe, but the existing one sounded like a roller skate wheel when we got it out and there was significant wear on the outer surface of the belt. It made for a fairly long day, but we don't expect to be back in there anytime soon. Mike "Steve" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:Ordnd.35049$7i4.31106@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >I probably would have cranked up the reg to 130 lbs first! Glad you got it >out > Now for a good tip. Get a testers paint pen (White is best) Mark the belt > and pullies with alighgnment marks. I usually put one wide mark on the cam > and 2 small marks on the crank. remove belt, transfer marks to new belt, > lining up all teeth to be sure the new belt isn't 1 tooth longer. put new > belt on car lining up the marks again. This almost guarantees you are not > off a tooth. > On most cars, I don't even line up TDC anymore. > Steve > > |
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