my civic and its timing belt
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
>>the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
>>reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
>>high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of the
>>crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the proper
>>tool!!!
>>
>
> I don't think the crank bends. Cranks are mighty brittle and may break, but
> I've never heard of one bending.
believe it or not, cranks are elastic, just like humungous great crow
bar like 30mm sway bars are elastic. we're not talking about permanent
plastic deformation, but reversible elastic windup under high torque.
[in physical terms, it's impossible for any component to take any load
without a degree of elastic deformation.]
>
> The 500 ft-lb impact should be the correct removal tool as long as I get 90
> psi to it at the tool, and the Honda holding tool isn't available locally (I
> checked).
that's why there's online suppliers of tools - as well as honda parts.
> With the impact driver and the manual tranny, holding shouldn't be
> a big problem anyway. My son works today but we might get a crack at it this
> evening. At this stage, we only want to break the bolt loose and retorque to
> spec so we have a clear shot at completing the job when his oil seals come
> in.
so there's still time to order the right tool? how does the cost of the
big impact driver compare to the holder?
>
> Mike
>
nothing personal mike - it's just that i used to be a mechanic and it
used to frustrate the heck out of me when someone came in with a vehicle
they'd fubared, then swear bind they'd never touched it. even though
their knuckes were still bleeding and fresh blood was all over the
broken whateveritwas. and then they'd complain about the extra labor
necessary to get their mess sorted out!
believe me, i have a patent on being cheap. i /don't/ have a patent on
costing myself more than i "saved" by not doing a job right & fouling it up.
now that i've finished ranting, yes, the big impact will definitely do
the job if you have a big enough air supply. often, a lot of home
systems just don't have the capacity to cope with the big pressure drops
of larger tools.
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
>>the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
>>reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
>>high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of the
>>crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the proper
>>tool!!!
>>
>
> I don't think the crank bends. Cranks are mighty brittle and may break, but
> I've never heard of one bending.
believe it or not, cranks are elastic, just like humungous great crow
bar like 30mm sway bars are elastic. we're not talking about permanent
plastic deformation, but reversible elastic windup under high torque.
[in physical terms, it's impossible for any component to take any load
without a degree of elastic deformation.]
>
> The 500 ft-lb impact should be the correct removal tool as long as I get 90
> psi to it at the tool, and the Honda holding tool isn't available locally (I
> checked).
that's why there's online suppliers of tools - as well as honda parts.
> With the impact driver and the manual tranny, holding shouldn't be
> a big problem anyway. My son works today but we might get a crack at it this
> evening. At this stage, we only want to break the bolt loose and retorque to
> spec so we have a clear shot at completing the job when his oil seals come
> in.
so there's still time to order the right tool? how does the cost of the
big impact driver compare to the holder?
>
> Mike
>
nothing personal mike - it's just that i used to be a mechanic and it
used to frustrate the heck out of me when someone came in with a vehicle
they'd fubared, then swear bind they'd never touched it. even though
their knuckes were still bleeding and fresh blood was all over the
broken whateveritwas. and then they'd complain about the extra labor
necessary to get their mess sorted out!
believe me, i have a patent on being cheap. i /don't/ have a patent on
costing myself more than i "saved" by not doing a job right & fouling it up.
now that i've finished ranting, yes, the big impact will definitely do
the job if you have a big enough air supply. often, a lot of home
systems just don't have the capacity to cope with the big pressure drops
of larger tools.
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
burt squareman wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:GKqdnW3jFZsdjA7cRVn-rw@comcast.com...
>
>
>>>For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
>>
>>[ same.]
>
>
> Impossible if done right.
>
>
>>>People should do fine a crowbar on flywheel.
>>
>>[i've seen that shear teeth.]
>
>
> That's a starter problem.
>
>
>>>Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.
>>
>>[the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?]
>
>
> Am I the only one who loves drilling holes?
don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
> Plus, holder shipment takes days.
>
> > > The problem with a special tool is its
>
>>>impractical nature. Use once and throw out
>>
>>[don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
>>underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.]
>
>
> Our intent was on saving.
"saving" means after the job is done, not excluding the cost of fixing
stuff that's been messed up.
>
>
>>[that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.]
>
>
> I've done belts the 88-91. They come with pulley holes which
> I immobilize with a cheap rod, why buy these $60-70 tools?
>
because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:GKqdnW3jFZsdjA7cRVn-rw@comcast.com...
>
>
>>>For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
>>
>>[ same.]
>
>
> Impossible if done right.
>
>
>>>People should do fine a crowbar on flywheel.
>>
>>[i've seen that shear teeth.]
>
>
> That's a starter problem.
>
>
>>>Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.
>>
>>[the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?]
>
>
> Am I the only one who loves drilling holes?
don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
> Plus, holder shipment takes days.
>
> > > The problem with a special tool is its
>
>>>impractical nature. Use once and throw out
>>
>>[don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
>>underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.]
>
>
> Our intent was on saving.
"saving" means after the job is done, not excluding the cost of fixing
stuff that's been messed up.
>
>
>>[that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.]
>
>
> I've done belts the 88-91. They come with pulley holes which
> I immobilize with a cheap rod, why buy these $60-70 tools?
>
because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
burt squareman wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:GKqdnW3jFZsdjA7cRVn-rw@comcast.com...
>
>
>>>For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
>>
>>[ same.]
>
>
> Impossible if done right.
>
>
>>>People should do fine a crowbar on flywheel.
>>
>>[i've seen that shear teeth.]
>
>
> That's a starter problem.
>
>
>>>Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.
>>
>>[the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?]
>
>
> Am I the only one who loves drilling holes?
don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
> Plus, holder shipment takes days.
>
> > > The problem with a special tool is its
>
>>>impractical nature. Use once and throw out
>>
>>[don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
>>underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.]
>
>
> Our intent was on saving.
"saving" means after the job is done, not excluding the cost of fixing
stuff that's been messed up.
>
>
>>[that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.]
>
>
> I've done belts the 88-91. They come with pulley holes which
> I immobilize with a cheap rod, why buy these $60-70 tools?
>
because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:GKqdnW3jFZsdjA7cRVn-rw@comcast.com...
>
>
>>>For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
>>
>>[ same.]
>
>
> Impossible if done right.
>
>
>>>People should do fine a crowbar on flywheel.
>>
>>[i've seen that shear teeth.]
>
>
> That's a starter problem.
>
>
>>>Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.
>>
>>[the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?]
>
>
> Am I the only one who loves drilling holes?
don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
> Plus, holder shipment takes days.
>
> > > The problem with a special tool is its
>
>>>impractical nature. Use once and throw out
>>
>>[don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
>>underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.]
>
>
> Our intent was on saving.
"saving" means after the job is done, not excluding the cost of fixing
stuff that's been messed up.
>
>
>>[that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.]
>
>
> I've done belts the 88-91. They come with pulley holes which
> I immobilize with a cheap rod, why buy these $60-70 tools?
>
because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:nb6dnUJANdQH4w7cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
> burt squareman wrote:
> don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
> because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
> some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
> to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
> bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
> came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
> nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
> burt squareman wrote:
> don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
> because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
> some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
> to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
> bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
> came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
> nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:nb6dnUJANdQH4w7cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
> burt squareman wrote:
> don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
> because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
> some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
> to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
> bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
> came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
> nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
> burt squareman wrote:
> don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
> because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
> some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
> to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
> bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
> came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
> nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
> burt squareman wrote:
> > and
> > then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
> > like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
> > human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
> > proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
> > is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>
> you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
> back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
> windup horror stories.
Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
an approximation.
IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft. I estimate 10
degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
> > Special tools are
> > the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
right,
> > like this one.
> >
> > http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
> >
>
> that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
{ "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
> burt squareman wrote:
> > and
> > then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
> > like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
> > human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
> > proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
> > is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>
> you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
> back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
> windup horror stories.
Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
an approximation.
IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft. I estimate 10
degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
> > Special tools are
> > the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
right,
> > like this one.
> >
> > http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
> >
>
> that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
{ "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
> burt squareman wrote:
> > and
> > then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
> > like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
> > human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
> > proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
> > is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>
> you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
> back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
> windup horror stories.
Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
an approximation.
IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft. I estimate 10
degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
> > Special tools are
> > the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
right,
> > like this one.
> >
> > http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
> >
>
> that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
{ "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
> burt squareman wrote:
> > and
> > then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
> > like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
> > human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
> > proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
> > is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>
> you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
> back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
> windup horror stories.
Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
an approximation.
IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft. I estimate 10
degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
> > Special tools are
> > the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
right,
> > like this one.
> >
> > http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
> >
>
> that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
{ "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"burt squareman" <catnip4sale@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1100154561.ya37NvF5b0DzULdyGoj5ug@bubbanews.. .
> Special tools are
> the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
> right,
> like this one.
>
> http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>
>
That's the direction I'll go. Thanks for the link, Burt! The better the
backstop on the pulley, the better I figure the impact will work. My
daughter has a '93 Accord - the timing belt was replaced 3 years, 50K miles
ago and it has an auto tranny.
I'll check back in after the tool arrives and we get it scheduled.
Mike
news:1100154561.ya37NvF5b0DzULdyGoj5ug@bubbanews.. .
> Special tools are
> the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
> right,
> like this one.
>
> http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>
>
That's the direction I'll go. Thanks for the link, Burt! The better the
backstop on the pulley, the better I figure the impact will work. My
daughter has a '93 Accord - the timing belt was replaced 3 years, 50K miles
ago and it has an auto tranny.
I'll check back in after the tool arrives and we get it scheduled.
Mike
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"burt squareman" <catnip4sale@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1100154561.ya37NvF5b0DzULdyGoj5ug@bubbanews.. .
> Special tools are
> the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
> right,
> like this one.
>
> http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>
>
That's the direction I'll go. Thanks for the link, Burt! The better the
backstop on the pulley, the better I figure the impact will work. My
daughter has a '93 Accord - the timing belt was replaced 3 years, 50K miles
ago and it has an auto tranny.
I'll check back in after the tool arrives and we get it scheduled.
Mike
news:1100154561.ya37NvF5b0DzULdyGoj5ug@bubbanews.. .
> Special tools are
> the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
> right,
> like this one.
>
> http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>
>
That's the direction I'll go. Thanks for the link, Burt! The better the
backstop on the pulley, the better I figure the impact will work. My
daughter has a '93 Accord - the timing belt was replaced 3 years, 50K miles
ago and it has an auto tranny.
I'll check back in after the tool arrives and we get it scheduled.
Mike
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
burt squareman wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:nb6dnUJANdQH4w7cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
>
>
> Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
> they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
burt, i honestly don't mean this to come across like a bitchfest, even
if it sounds like one. drilling opposed holes is pretty random as to
whether it's going to preserve balance. castings, such as pulley
wheels, tend to have voids or porosity that can leave the piece of
non-uniform density. that's why they need to be balanced before the
engine is assembled. and because of this different density, you may be
drilling solid material out of one side, but porous out of the other,
hence the balance is now lost. pretty sure you know the effects
imbalance can have on bearing life, seals, etc. true, honda castings
are pretty good, and you may get lucky, but in principle, drilling is
really not a good plan.
>
>
>>because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
>>some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
>>to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
>>bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
>>came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
>>nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
>
>
> It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
> vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
> The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
> probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
> pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
> sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
>
>
>
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:nb6dnUJANdQH4w7cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
>
>
> Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
> they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
burt, i honestly don't mean this to come across like a bitchfest, even
if it sounds like one. drilling opposed holes is pretty random as to
whether it's going to preserve balance. castings, such as pulley
wheels, tend to have voids or porosity that can leave the piece of
non-uniform density. that's why they need to be balanced before the
engine is assembled. and because of this different density, you may be
drilling solid material out of one side, but porous out of the other,
hence the balance is now lost. pretty sure you know the effects
imbalance can have on bearing life, seals, etc. true, honda castings
are pretty good, and you may get lucky, but in principle, drilling is
really not a good plan.
>
>
>>because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
>>some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
>>to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
>>bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
>>came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
>>nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
>
>
> It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
> vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
> The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
> probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
> pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
> sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
>
>
>
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
burt squareman wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:nb6dnUJANdQH4w7cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
>
>
> Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
> they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
burt, i honestly don't mean this to come across like a bitchfest, even
if it sounds like one. drilling opposed holes is pretty random as to
whether it's going to preserve balance. castings, such as pulley
wheels, tend to have voids or porosity that can leave the piece of
non-uniform density. that's why they need to be balanced before the
engine is assembled. and because of this different density, you may be
drilling solid material out of one side, but porous out of the other,
hence the balance is now lost. pretty sure you know the effects
imbalance can have on bearing life, seals, etc. true, honda castings
are pretty good, and you may get lucky, but in principle, drilling is
really not a good plan.
>
>
>>because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
>>some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
>>to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
>>bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
>>came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
>>nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
>
>
> It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
> vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
> The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
> probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
> pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
> sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
>
>
>
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:nb6dnUJANdQH4w7cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>don't ever touch one of my cars. _ever_. you ever heard of balancing?
>
>
> Each side will get a precise hole. I would never drill holes unless
> they're mine, probably will elect not to do so, unless out of options.
burt, i honestly don't mean this to come across like a bitchfest, even
if it sounds like one. drilling opposed holes is pretty random as to
whether it's going to preserve balance. castings, such as pulley
wheels, tend to have voids or porosity that can leave the piece of
non-uniform density. that's why they need to be balanced before the
engine is assembled. and because of this different density, you may be
drilling solid material out of one side, but porous out of the other,
hence the balance is now lost. pretty sure you know the effects
imbalance can have on bearing life, seals, etc. true, honda castings
are pretty good, and you may get lucky, but in principle, drilling is
really not a good plan.
>
>
>>because they load the pulley in the way it was designed, not lever it in
>>some oblique mode that may or may not bend the pulley off center. not
>>to mention the time involved messing about with a cludge.
>>bottom line burt, it's your car - you do whatever you want. but if you
>>came to me after you'd messed something up, i'd charge you through the
>>nose so bad, you'd think paying for the right tool was a privilege.
>
>
> It's a free country, each independent person will do as they wish to their
> vehicle. My 16-year old 260K Honda has never need outside consulting.
> The only costly parts I've replace are the water pump and battery. I
> probably shouldn't reseat a new bearing and machine seals for my water
> pump but what the heck, I'll try it out anyway in about 10-years and making
> sure it'll continue to stay away from outside consulting.
>
>
>
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Caroline wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>>and
>>>then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
>>>like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
>>>human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
>>>proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
>>>is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>>
>>you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
>>back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
>>windup horror stories.
>
>
> Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
>
> If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
> of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
> an approximation.
yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
>
> IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
> tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
> slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
> used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
> the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
> lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
>
> I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft.
no, elastic windup.
> I estimate 10
> degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
> moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
> deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
>
> Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
> failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
> trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
> breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
> with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
> stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
>
> Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
> Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
> over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
[engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
>
>
>>>Special tools are
>>>the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
>
> right,
>
>>>like this one.
>>>
>>>http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>>>
>>
>>that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
>
>
> Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
> www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
>
> { "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
>
> Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
>
>
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>>and
>>>then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
>>>like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
>>>human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
>>>proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
>>>is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>>
>>you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
>>back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
>>windup horror stories.
>
>
> Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
>
> If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
> of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
> an approximation.
yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
>
> IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
> tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
> slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
> used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
> the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
> lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
>
> I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft.
no, elastic windup.
> I estimate 10
> degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
> moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
> deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
>
> Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
> failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
> trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
> breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
> with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
> stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
>
> Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
> Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
> over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
[engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
>
>
>>>Special tools are
>>>the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
>
> right,
>
>>>like this one.
>>>
>>>http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>>>
>>
>>that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
>
>
> Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
> www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
>
> { "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
>
> Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
>
>
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
Caroline wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>>and
>>>then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
>>>like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
>>>human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
>>>proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
>>>is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>>
>>you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
>>back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
>>windup horror stories.
>
>
> Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
>
> If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
> of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
> an approximation.
yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
>
> IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
> tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
> slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
> used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
> the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
> lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
>
> I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft.
no, elastic windup.
> I estimate 10
> degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
> moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
> deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
>
> Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
> failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
> trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
> breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
> with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
> stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
>
> Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
> Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
> over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
[engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
>
>
>>>Special tools are
>>>the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
>
> right,
>
>>>like this one.
>>>
>>>http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>>>
>>
>>that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
>
>
> Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
> www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
>
> { "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
>
> Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
>
>
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
>
>>burt squareman wrote:
>
>
>>>and
>>>then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
>>>like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
>>>human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
>>>proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
>>>is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.
>>
>>you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
>>back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
>>windup horror stories.
>
>
> Hey, you're the one who characterizes these as horror stories. :-)
>
> If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or minus,
> of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this as
> an approximation.
yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
>
> IMO, my pulley bolt removal went really well, once I had the right pulley holder
> tool (custom design by Eric with modifications by Caroline for her 91 Civic's
> slightly different pulley). I credit doing a lot of research here, first. I've
> used my home-made tool twice since and it's fantastic. (Though of course freeing
> the bolt a few times within a month or so means the bolt hadn't been through a
> lot of heat cycles and so wasn't as hard to free after the first loosening.)
>
> I'm not sure whether you mean literally bending the crankshaft.
no, elastic windup.
> I estimate 10
> degrees to 90 degrees of twist may be necessary, but the only thing that is
> moving (twisting before the bolt comes free) are the extensions and possibly
> deep socket. The stress comes mostly from twisting, not bending.
>
> Not using a jack to support the extensions will likely result in something
> failing. I talked to a couple of yahoo guys in one of my auto classes who were
> trying to free a pulley bolt on their IIRC 98 Civic, and they bragged about
> breaking two Crafstman half-inch extensions. "Did you support the extensions
> with a jack?" I asked. "Um, no.... " So of course bending stress and twisting
> stress added together in the extensions and busted them right apart.
>
> Some people (boys) need to be cautioned about this. They're the horror stories.
> Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her car
> over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
[engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
>
>
>>>Special tools are
>>>the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about
>
> right,
>
>>>like this one.
>>>
>>>http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>>>
>>
>>that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.
>
>
> Anyone wanting the "custom tool" recipe for many or all of the 88-91's, go to
> www.groups.google.com and search for the following:
>
> { "surveying stake" pulley author:caroline group:rec.autos.makers.honda }
>
> Omit the lock washers. The hose is fine as a spacer to protect the pulley lip.
>
>
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
> Caroline wrote:
snip
> > If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> > yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> > altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or
minus,
> > of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this
as
> > an approximation.
>
> yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
The pulley is keyed to its shaft. Immobilizing the pulley immobilizes the
crankshaft.
Thus the torque applied by the technician or DIYer is resisted by the pulley
holding tool, which in turn is held immobile by the ground (in the case of my
and many others' design).
snip
> > Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her
car
> > over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
>
> how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
> [engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
I don't understand this culture of recklessness. I have too much to do in life
to take these kind of risks.
Great fuel mileage, not speed, is a much bigger thrill for me.
Just saying. :-)
Caroline
"Don't get metaphorical on me... Well, you could, and you'd be right, but let's
keep this a PG-13 group."
> Caroline wrote:
snip
> > If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> > yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> > altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or
minus,
> > of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this
as
> > an approximation.
>
> yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
The pulley is keyed to its shaft. Immobilizing the pulley immobilizes the
crankshaft.
Thus the torque applied by the technician or DIYer is resisted by the pulley
holding tool, which in turn is held immobile by the ground (in the case of my
and many others' design).
snip
> > Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her
car
> > over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
>
> how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
> [engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
I don't understand this culture of recklessness. I have too much to do in life
to take these kind of risks.
Great fuel mileage, not speed, is a much bigger thrill for me.
Just saying. :-)
Caroline
"Don't get metaphorical on me... Well, you could, and you'd be right, but let's
keep this a PG-13 group."
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: my civic and its timing belt
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote
> Caroline wrote:
snip
> > If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> > yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> > altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or
minus,
> > of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this
as
> > an approximation.
>
> yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
The pulley is keyed to its shaft. Immobilizing the pulley immobilizes the
crankshaft.
Thus the torque applied by the technician or DIYer is resisted by the pulley
holding tool, which in turn is held immobile by the ground (in the case of my
and many others' design).
snip
> > Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her
car
> > over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
>
> how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
> [engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
I don't understand this culture of recklessness. I have too much to do in life
to take these kind of risks.
Great fuel mileage, not speed, is a much bigger thrill for me.
Just saying. :-)
Caroline
"Don't get metaphorical on me... Well, you could, and you'd be right, but let's
keep this a PG-13 group."
> Caroline wrote:
snip
> > If the torque required is about 500 ft-lbs, and with some other assumptions,
> > yes, the rotation of the socket and extensions (over 20 inches in length,
> > altogether) from one end to the other will be around 75 degrees. Plus or
minus,
> > of course, given the assumptions. The actual experience I had validated this
as
> > an approximation.
>
> yes, and you get windup through the engine & transmission components too.
The pulley is keyed to its shaft. Immobilizing the pulley immobilizes the
crankshaft.
Thus the torque applied by the technician or DIYer is resisted by the pulley
holding tool, which in turn is held immobile by the ground (in the case of my
and many others' design).
snip
> > Not an effin' experienced woman mechanical engineer who's never driven her
car
> > over 80 mph in her life. ;-)
>
> how about hitting the red line? c'mon caroline, consider it an
> [engineering] exercise in envelope determination!
I don't understand this culture of recklessness. I have too much to do in life
to take these kind of risks.
Great fuel mileage, not speed, is a much bigger thrill for me.
Just saying. :-)
Caroline
"Don't get metaphorical on me... Well, you could, and you'd be right, but let's
keep this a PG-13 group."