Cameo

That indicator light in my '94 Accord's dashboard push button is often not
working and I wonder how to get to it without removing the whole dashboard
panel. Is there some trick to that?
Thanks.

Tegger

"Cameo" <cameo@cameo.invalid> wrote in
news:hhjt2o$2dk$1@news.eternal-september.org:

> That indicator light in my '94 Accord's dashboard push button is often
> not working and I wonder how to get to it without removing the whole
> dashboard panel. Is there some trick to that?
> Thanks.
>



Chances are the switch is just fine. The problem is most likely the
Integrated Control Unit, which is behind the driver's side kick panel
(ahead of door, under dash).

Any other weird electrical problems, like intermittent wipers that don't
always work? Buzzers not always functional?

Pull that panel and check carefully for water leaks under there. Water
leaks will ruin the ICU.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

J.L.Hemmer

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 15:20:25 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv>
wrote:

>"Cameo" <cameo@cameo.invalid> wrote in
>news:hhjt2o$2dk$1@news.eternal-september.org:
>
>> That indicator light in my '94 Accord's dashboard push button is often
>> not working and I wonder how to get to it without removing the whole
>> dashboard panel. Is there some trick to that?
>> Thanks.
>>
>
>
>
>Chances are the switch is just fine. The problem is most likely the
>Integrated Control Unit, which is behind the driver's side kick panel
>(ahead of door, under dash).
>
>Any other weird electrical problems, like intermittent wipers that don't
>always work? Buzzers not always functional?
>
>Pull that panel and check carefully for water leaks under there. Water
>leaks will ruin the ICU.

Tegger,

I've got something similar--the cruise control light on the on/off
switch is out. The cruise works fine with no other electrical
problems noted. It's a 2001 Accord.

Is it a bulb that can be replaced...???? Entire switch? or worse?!

Thanks

Elmo P. Shagnasty

In article <jgbsj55rklb4n6j4d5at504qop3tsam4us@4ax.com>,
J.L.Hemmer <noone@nowhere.com> wrote:

> I've got something similar--the cruise control light on the on/off
> switch is out. The cruise works fine with no other electrical
> problems noted. It's a 2001 Accord.
>
> Is it a bulb that can be replaced...????

Absolutely. That panel comes off easily, and that switch comes right
out, and the bulb is probably $1.08 at the dealer. Easy peasy.

Cameo

"Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote:
> Chances are the switch is just fine. The problem is most likely the
> Integrated Control Unit, which is behind the driver's side kick panel
> (ahead of door, under dash).
>
> Any other weird electrical problems, like intermittent wipers that
> don't
> always work? Buzzers not always functional?
>
> Pull that panel and check carefully for water leaks under there. Water
> leaks will ruin the ICU.

The switch indeed seems to work otherwise right because after pushing it
in while the window is fogged in, I can soon see the fog drying up along
the thin wires of the rear window. I just feel more comfortable being
reminded by the indicator light that the switch is on because that
circuit draws a lot of power.

I was thinking that perhaps just reseating those indicator lights within
the switch might fix the problem but I could also look into the
suggested ICU leak.
Thanks for the tip.

Brian Smith

Cameo wrote:
>
> The switch indeed seems to work otherwise right because after pushing it
> in while the window is fogged in, I can soon see the fog drying up along
> the thin wires of the rear window. I just feel more comfortable being
> reminded by the indicator light that the switch is on because that
> circuit draws a lot of power.

If memory serves me, the defroster is timed, so the draw is not an
issue at all.

Tegger

"Cameo" <cameo@cameo.invalid> wrote in news:hhlm1o$7qh$1@news.eternal-
september.org:


>
> The switch indeed seems to work otherwise right because after pushing it
> in while the window is fogged in, I can soon see the fog drying up along
> the thin wires of the rear window. I just feel more comfortable being
> reminded by the indicator light that the switch is on because that
> circuit draws a lot of power.
>
> I was thinking that perhaps just reseating those indicator lights within
> the switch might fix the problem but I could also look into the
> suggested ICU leak.
> Thanks for the tip.
>



If the defroster itself works, then the ICU is fine.

The bulb in the switch has failed.

Take a look at the bottom of the switch. There is a tiny groove in the
bezel. Using a screwdriver in that groove, lever the switch out of the
dash. Use a shop cloth or something to protect the dash from damage.

It helps to push down on the switch as you lever, to keep it from getting
cocked on an angle and binding.

The bulb is this teeny tiny thing pushed into the bottom of the switch.
It's probably about two dollars at the dealer, but they may have to order
it (~1-2 days).

The circuit does draw a lot of power, but it shuts off automatically after
roughly 15-20 minutes. The actual time will vary, and can be up to 25
minutes.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger

"Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in news:elmop-
B20DF7.13305001012010@nothing.attdns.com:

> In article <jgbsj55rklb4n6j4d5at504qop3tsam4us@4ax.com>,
> J.L.Hemmer <noone@nowhere.com> wrote:
>
>> I've got something similar--the cruise control light on the on/off
>> switch is out. The cruise works fine with no other electrical
>> problems noted. It's a 2001 Accord.
>>
>> Is it a bulb that can be replaced...????
>
> Absolutely. That panel comes off easily, and that switch comes right
> out, and the bulb is probably $1.08 at the dealer. Easy peasy.



....lemon squeezy.

Elmo is right.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

J.L.Hemmer

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:30:50 -0500, "Elmo P. Shagnasty"
<elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote:

>In article <jgbsj55rklb4n6j4d5at504qop3tsam4us@4ax.com>,
> J.L.Hemmer <noone@nowhere.com> wrote:
>
>> I've got something similar--the cruise control light on the on/off
>> switch is out. The cruise works fine with no other electrical
>> problems noted. It's a 2001 Accord.
>>
>> Is it a bulb that can be replaced...????
>
>Absolutely. That panel comes off easily, and that switch comes right
>out, and the bulb is probably $1.08 at the dealer. Easy peasy.

Thank you for the info!!

Cameo

"Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
news:Xns9CF3B8734739Etegger@208.90.168.18...
> If the defroster itself works, then the ICU is fine.
>
> The bulb in the switch has failed.
>
> Take a look at the bottom of the switch. There is a tiny groove in the
> bezel. Using a screwdriver in that groove, lever the switch out of the
> dash. Use a shop cloth or something to protect the dash from damage.
>
> It helps to push down on the switch as you lever, to keep it from
> getting
> cocked on an angle and binding.
>
> The bulb is this teeny tiny thing pushed into the bottom of the
> switch.
> It's probably about two dollars at the dealer, but they may have to
> order
> it (~1-2 days).
>
> The circuit does draw a lot of power, but it shuts off automatically
> after
> roughly 15-20 minutes. The actual time will vary, and can be up to 25
> minutes.

Thanks, I'll try what you're suggesting. I know about the timer but it's
still a pretty long time, especially when the headlights are on, too.

Tegger

"Cameo" <cameo@cameo.invalid> wrote in news:hhn865$gcl$1@news.eternal-
september.org:

> "Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
> news:Xns9CF3B8734739Etegger@208.90.168.18...

>>
>> The circuit does draw a lot of power, but it shuts off automatically
>> after
>> roughly 15-20 minutes. The actual time will vary, and can be up to 25
>> minutes.
>
> Thanks, I'll try what you're suggesting. I know about the timer but it's
> still a pretty long time, especially when the headlights are on, too.
>
>


If your alternator and battery are in good shape, simultaneous operation of
the lights, defroster and fan will not cause problems even at extended
idle.

Your system voltage at idle should be between 14 and 14.4 volts, preferably
closer to the higher end.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Elmo P. Shagnasty

In article <Xns9CF465AEC18ADtegger@208.90.168.18>,
Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote:

> If your alternator and battery are in good shape, simultaneous operation of
> the lights, defroster and fan will not cause problems even at extended
> idle.

.....on a Honda.

Should, however, your car have (for example) a Chrysler badge on it,
simultaneous operation of lights, defroster, and fan will cause the
engine to stop running.

Brian Smith

On 1/2/2010 1:34 PM, Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
>
> Should, however, your car have (for example) a Chrysler badge on it,
> simultaneous operation of lights, defroster, and fan will cause the
> engine to stop running.

So true. :^)

Joe

On 2010-01-02, Elmo P. Shagnasty <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote:
> In article <Xns9CF465AEC18ADtegger@208.90.168.18>,
> Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote:
>
>> If your alternator and battery are in good shape, simultaneous operation of
>> the lights, defroster and fan will not cause problems even at extended
>> idle.
>
> ....on a Honda.
>
> Should, however, your car have (for example) a Chrysler badge on it,
> simultaneous operation of lights, defroster, and fan will cause the
> engine to stop running.

No, it won't. Granted, my Dodge truck does not have a rear-window
defroster, but it can handle quite high loads with no issues at idle.
I have had many problems with Chrysler products, but they were almost
all transmission or suspension related. The electrical system always
has been fine on any of mine ('90 on)...

--
Joe - Linux User #449481/Ubuntu User #19733
joe at hits - buffalo dot com
"Hate is baggage, life is too short to go around pissed off all the
time..." - Danny, American History X