Steve Murphree

My son broke a lug bolt on the front of his 1995 Honda Accord. I've looked
at the hub assembly and it looks to me like it will required some major
disassembly in order to extract the old stud and replace it. Could someone
please briefly describe the necessary steps. Thanks to all who respond.

Eric

Steve Murphree wrote:
>
> My son broke a lug bolt on the front of his 1995 Honda Accord. I've
> looked at the hub assembly and it looks to me like it will required some
> major disassembly in order to extract the old stud and replace it. Could
> someone please briefly describe the necessary steps. Thanks to all who
> respond.

You may want to take a look at this prior post http://tinyurl.com/2mmru

Eric

pjohnson

Wow, I just went through this to my 95 accord LX Wagon!

Don't blame your son. Those lugs get bound up then there toast. The only
thing to do is twist them off and put some new ones in. This is the front
wheel I assume.

1) Buy some new studs at the auto parts store. You'll want new nuts too, get
the OEM ones that have the washers (if you have the LX like me, the help
hold the hub cap on.

2) Rent a slide hammer from your local rental place if you don't have one.

3) Get the right size socket for the castle nut (25mm?)

4) Jack the car up, pull the wheel off.

5) Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on, use a box or something near
the wheel to set it on so you don't strain the hose.

6) Remove the castle nut and washer.

7) Hook up the slide hammer. Best to use some nuts you don't care about,
they'll get banged up.

8) Pound away to pull the rotor/bearing assembly off. Don't Give Up! It
takes a lot of pounding. The assembly is mated to the CV joint shaft in the
back, so that comes loose too.

The hard part is over!

9) Remove the rotor (4 bolts)

10) Tap out the bad stud

11) Tap in the new one

12) Put it back together.

Note. When you are using the slide hammer to get the assembly back in, you
have to hold the CV joint or your slide hammer action will be worthless. Get
it started part way then let the castle nut pull it in the rest of the way.

I actually locked up another stud on the re-assembly and had to do it over
again. Its easier the second time

"Steve Murphree" <smurphr1@midsouth.rr.com> wrote in message
news:Z96Ac.46637$Oa7.32324@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> My son broke a lug bolt on the front of his 1995 Honda Accord. I've
looked
> at the hub assembly and it looks to me like it will required some major
> disassembly in order to extract the old stud and replace it. Could
someone
> please briefly describe the necessary steps. Thanks to all who respond.
>
>

pjohnson

Yeah, the manual is kind of useless on this one. Nice pictures though, they
helped. Apparently they want you to break down your ball joints to get the
rotor off. No thanks. See my blow by blow in another response to this
message.



"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:40D0FE58.7C4E658C@spam.now...
> Steve Murphree wrote:
> >
> > My son broke a lug bolt on the front of his 1995 Honda Accord. I've
> > looked at the hub assembly and it looks to me like it will required some
> > major disassembly in order to extract the old stud and replace it.
Could
> > someone please briefly describe the necessary steps. Thanks to all who
> > respond.
>
> You may want to take a look at this prior post http://tinyurl.com/2mmru
>
> Eric

Eric

pjohnson wrote:
>
> Yeah, the manual is kind of useless on this one. Nice pictures though,
> they helped. Apparently they want you to break down your ball joints to
> get the rotor off. No thanks. See my blow by blow in another response to
> this message.

I'll agree that the technique described in the factory service manual is
really only suitable for someone working in a shop with the appropriate
press tools. However, the technique described by the Federal Mogul pdf is
much more practical http://tinyurl.com/2bbye. By the way, the ball joints
are really no problem with the appropriate puller. I happen to like to use
one these units, http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg, but a similar tool
could likely be rented if need be.

Eric

pjohnson

How do the joints go back together? Just let the nut pull it in? What about
using one of those tapered chisel like forks to tap the knuckle loose? Does
that work on these?

I have to admit that with the separation tool I probably wouldn't have used
the slide hammer to separate the bearing.



"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:40D400C8.EC19A40E@spam.now...
> pjohnson wrote:
> >
> > Yeah, the manual is kind of useless on this one. Nice pictures though,
> > they helped. Apparently they want you to break down your ball joints to
> > get the rotor off. No thanks. See my blow by blow in another response to
> > this message.
>
> I'll agree that the technique described in the factory service manual is
> really only suitable for someone working in a shop with the appropriate
> press tools. However, the technique described by the Federal Mogul pdf is
> much more practical http://tinyurl.com/2bbye. By the way, the ball joints
> are really no problem with the appropriate puller. I happen to like to
use
> one these units, http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg, but a similar tool
> could likely be rented if need be.
>
> Eric

jim beam

pjohnson wrote:
> How do the joints go back together? Just let the nut pull it in?

yes.

> What about
> using one of those tapered chisel like forks to tap the knuckle loose? Does
> that work on these?

the fork should only be used on a honda if all other methods fail, and
the joint needs replacing anyway. it messes up the boots and doesn't do
a lot for the joint either. the text book method is using a tool like
that referenced by eric - it is /superb/.

>
> I have to admit that with the separation tool I probably wouldn't have used
> the slide hammer to separate the bearing.
>
>
>
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:40D400C8.EC19A40E@spam.now...
>
>>pjohnson wrote:
>>
>>>Yeah, the manual is kind of useless on this one. Nice pictures though,
>>>they helped. Apparently they want you to break down your ball joints to
>>>get the rotor off. No thanks. See my blow by blow in another response to
>>>this message.
>>
>>I'll agree that the technique described in the factory service manual is
>>really only suitable for someone working in a shop with the appropriate
>>press tools. However, the technique described by the Federal Mogul pdf is
>>much more practical http://tinyurl.com/2bbye. By the way, the ball joints
>>are really no problem with the appropriate puller. I happen to like to
>
> use
>
>>one these units, http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg, but a similar tool
>>could likely be rented if need be.
>>
>>Eric
>
>
>

Eric

pjohnson wrote:
>
> How do the joints go back together? Just let the nut pull it in?

Yes, just tighten the castle nut to the rated torqued and then a little more
if you need to align the nut with the cotter key hole (never loosen to align
the cotter key hole).

> What about using one of those tapered chisel like forks to tap the
> knuckle loose? Does that work on these?

Yes, pickle forks will work. However, they nearly always wind up tearing
the ball joint boot which must then be replaced unless you want the joints
to fail prematurely.

I also know of one shop that uses a long 4 foot prybar to pry down on the
lower control arms to pop the joint out. According to them, this is a very
simple and fast solution. However, it wouldn't work for the tierod end or
the upper control arm ball joints so I still prefer using the puller tool.

Eric