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Shuddering when taking off
I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't it shake all the time? Thanks! |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hi, Clutch? |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hi, Clutch? |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hi, Clutch? |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hi, Clutch? |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hmmm, hard to say from just reading about it, but maybe you have a clutch problem. A badly worn clutch or a clutch with oil on it from a leaking engine or transmission seal can cause a judder on start up. A cracked motor mount should be replaced. It probably isn't the cause of your judder, but it sounds like the replacement mount might not have been of very high quality. There are a lot of short-lived rubber aftermarket parts on the market! |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hmmm, hard to say from just reading about it, but maybe you have a clutch problem. A badly worn clutch or a clutch with oil on it from a leaking engine or transmission seal can cause a judder on start up. A cracked motor mount should be replaced. It probably isn't the cause of your judder, but it sounds like the replacement mount might not have been of very high quality. There are a lot of short-lived rubber aftermarket parts on the market! |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hmmm, hard to say from just reading about it, but maybe you have a clutch problem. A badly worn clutch or a clutch with oil on it from a leaking engine or transmission seal can cause a judder on start up. A cracked motor mount should be replaced. It probably isn't the cause of your judder, but it sounds like the replacement mount might not have been of very high quality. There are a lot of short-lived rubber aftermarket parts on the market! |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > Hmmm, hard to say from just reading about it, but maybe you have a clutch problem. A badly worn clutch or a clutch with oil on it from a leaking engine or transmission seal can cause a judder on start up. A cracked motor mount should be replaced. It probably isn't the cause of your judder, but it sounds like the replacement mount might not have been of very high quality. There are a lot of short-lived rubber aftermarket parts on the market! |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
*coil's insulating lacquer. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground = no spark. Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
*coil's insulating lacquer. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground = no spark. Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
*coil's insulating lacquer. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground = no spark. Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
*coil's insulating lacquer. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground = no spark. Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the distributor and induction coil? TE Chea wrote: > My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction > *coil's insulating lacquer. > http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif > #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much > heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground > = no spark. > > Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's > crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues > hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will > be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). > > Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the distributor and induction coil? TE Chea wrote: > My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction > *coil's insulating lacquer. > http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif > #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much > heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground > = no spark. > > Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's > crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues > hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will > be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). > > Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the distributor and induction coil? TE Chea wrote: > My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction > *coil's insulating lacquer. > http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif > #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much > heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground > = no spark. > > Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's > crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues > hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will > be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). > > Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the distributor and induction coil? TE Chea wrote: > My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction > *coil's insulating lacquer. > http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif > #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much > heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground > = no spark. > > Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's > crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues > hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will > be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). > > Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com... > I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300 miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try. Mike |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com... > I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300 miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try. Mike |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com... > I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300 miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try. Mike |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com... > I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking > off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the > gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel > filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. > > When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on > the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two > different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively > new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would > also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? > > Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't > it shake all the time? > > Thanks! > If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300 miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try. Mike |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about a month ago. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about a month ago. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about a month ago. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about a month ago. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely > suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst > after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. > > Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can > you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the > distributor and induction coil? emil, be very very careful trying to make sense of chea's posts. most of it is nonsense. the rest, stupid. this will give you a clue: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...68269f3?hl=en& > > > > > > > TE Chea wrote: >> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction >> *coil's insulating lacquer. >> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif >> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much >> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground >> = no spark. >> >> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's >> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues >> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will >> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). >> >> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. > |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely > suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst > after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. > > Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can > you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the > distributor and induction coil? emil, be very very careful trying to make sense of chea's posts. most of it is nonsense. the rest, stupid. this will give you a clue: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...68269f3?hl=en& > > > > > > > TE Chea wrote: >> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction >> *coil's insulating lacquer. >> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif >> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much >> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground >> = no spark. >> >> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's >> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues >> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will >> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). >> >> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. > |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely > suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst > after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. > > Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can > you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the > distributor and induction coil? emil, be very very careful trying to make sense of chea's posts. most of it is nonsense. the rest, stupid. this will give you a clue: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...68269f3?hl=en& > > > > > > > TE Chea wrote: >> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction >> *coil's insulating lacquer. >> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif >> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much >> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground >> = no spark. >> >> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's >> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues >> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will >> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). >> >> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. > |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely > suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst > after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. > > Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can > you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the > distributor and induction coil? emil, be very very careful trying to make sense of chea's posts. most of it is nonsense. the rest, stupid. this will give you a clue: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...68269f3?hl=en& > > > > > > > TE Chea wrote: >> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction >> *coil's insulating lacquer. >> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif >> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much >> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground >> = no spark. >> >> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's >> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues >> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will >> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). >> >> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. > |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. > clutch and motor mounts are prime suspects. and look for electrical stuff too - aged plugs can give a stuttering start. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. > clutch and motor mounts are prime suspects. and look for electrical stuff too - aged plugs can give a stuttering start. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. > clutch and motor mounts are prime suspects. and look for electrical stuff too - aged plugs can give a stuttering start. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. > clutch and motor mounts are prime suspects. and look for electrical stuff too - aged plugs can give a stuttering start. |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Thanks for the heads-up, jim! The plugs aren't that old (3 months), and I checked them last month. However, I opened up the distributor and saw that the rotor (2 months old) has a "burn mark" on it. The old rotor was replaced because of this same problem -- it was corroded badly in the exact same place. What could be causing it? Here's a pic of the rotor: http://hondaswap.com/attachments/gen...rotor_burn.jpg |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Thanks for the heads-up, jim! The plugs aren't that old (3 months), and I checked them last month. However, I opened up the distributor and saw that the rotor (2 months old) has a "burn mark" on it. The old rotor was replaced because of this same problem -- it was corroded badly in the exact same place. What could be causing it? Here's a pic of the rotor: http://hondaswap.com/attachments/gen...rotor_burn.jpg |
Re: Shuddering when taking off
Thanks for the heads-up, jim! The plugs aren't that old (3 months), and I checked them last month. However, I opened up the distributor and saw that the rotor (2 months old) has a "burn mark" on it. The old rotor was replaced because of this same problem -- it was corroded badly in the exact same place. What could be causing it? Here's a pic of the rotor: http://hondaswap.com/attachments/gen...rotor_burn.jpg |
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