Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
12-10-2006, 11:31 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
"Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>> changes.
>
> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>
> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>
Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
dealer.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>> changes.
>
> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>
> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>
Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
dealer.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 11:31 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
"Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>> changes.
>
> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>
> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>
Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
dealer.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>> changes.
>
> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>
> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>
Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
dealer.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 12:14 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
Tegger wrote:
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
12-10-2006, 12:14 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
Tegger wrote:
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
12-10-2006, 12:14 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
Tegger wrote:
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
12-10-2006, 12:14 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
Tegger wrote:
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.
some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?
just a thought.
12-10-2006, 08:24 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 08:24 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 08:24 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 08:24 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.
The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).
>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.
TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.
THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.
The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.
The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 08:48 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 08:48 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 08:48 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 08:48 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
numbers.
I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.
The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.
My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
8) Calculate mileage.
Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).
Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.
If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
12-10-2006, 09:38 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new
Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>>
>>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>>> oil changes.
>>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>>
>>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>>> dealer.
>>>
>> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
>> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
>> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
>> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>>
>> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
>> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
>> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
>> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
>> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
>> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>>
>> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
>> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
>
>
>
> I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
> oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
~2k per change on m1? ordinary oil is good for way more than that.
provided there's no fuel mixture/ignition problems messing up
combustion, m1 should double conventional mileage, especially for a
freeway driver. last time i changed mine at 10k, it came out looking
much the same as it did at 2k - same consistency too. should have left
it in there for another 5k. especially as it had finished getting burnt
and the level was constant.
>
> I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
> were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
> that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
> numbers.
>
> I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
> formulations at one point.
>
> The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
> mattter what oil I used.
i don't think you're giving it time to stabilize.
>
> My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
> can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
> 1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
> 2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
> engine.
> 3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
> 4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
>
> 5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
> 6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
>
> 7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
> level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
> can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
>
> 8) Calculate mileage.
>
> Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
> one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
> I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
> to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
>
> All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
> it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
>
> My current consumption is:
> 1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
> operation on the highway,
> 1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
> and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
> (estimated).
>
> Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
> in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
> that except a rebuild.
did your head gasket dude use any abrasives when prepping for the new one?
>
> If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
> excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
> would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
> though; oil pressure is well within limits.
>
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>>
>>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger@207.14.116.130>,
>>>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>>> oil changes.
>>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>>
>>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>>> dealer.
>>>
>> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
>> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
>> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
>> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>>
>> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
>> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
>> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
>> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
>> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
>> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>>
>> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
>> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
>
>
>
> I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
> oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).
~2k per change on m1? ordinary oil is good for way more than that.
provided there's no fuel mixture/ignition problems messing up
combustion, m1 should double conventional mileage, especially for a
freeway driver. last time i changed mine at 10k, it came out looking
much the same as it did at 2k - same consistency too. should have left
it in there for another 5k. especially as it had finished getting burnt
and the level was constant.
>
> I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
> were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
> that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge s between the
> numbers.
>
> I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
> formulations at one point.
>
> The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
> mattter what oil I used.
i don't think you're giving it time to stabilize.
>
> My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
> can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
> 1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
> 2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
> engine.
> 3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
> 4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
>
> 5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
> 6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
>
> 7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
> level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
> can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
>
> 8) Calculate mileage.
>
> Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
> one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
> I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
> to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
>
> All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
> it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
>
> My current consumption is:
> 1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
> operation on the highway,
> 1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
> and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
> (estimated).
>
> Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
> in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
> that except a rebuild.
did your head gasket dude use any abrasives when prepping for the new one?
>
> If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
> excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
> would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
> though; oil pressure is well within limits.
>
