A sticky question...
09-25-2003, 04:24 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
A sticky question...
Hi,
My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
soon after.
Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
Thanks, Ali
My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
soon after.
Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
Thanks, Ali
09-25-2003, 07:25 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
Zomaar wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
I've had good luck using a modeling glue called Zap. It comes in several
varieties, the "Zap A Gap" variety is a little thicker than the other varieties
in order to make sure that all of the gaps in the joint are filled. Zap takes a
while to cure, so let it sit over night for full strength even though the joint
will be set after about 20 minutes (note that the glue will start reacting with
some plastics almost immediately after application so your working time will be
very short). You can also increase the strength of the joint by gluing a couple
of small pieces of plexiglas across the joint. These will act to help minimize
flex at the joint and reinforce it (do this on the inside surface of the lens if
you can). Note that the manufacturers of Zap also sell a separate catalyst to
speed curing time. I don't recommend use of the catalyst where appearances are
important as it will whiten the cured glue. It also may not produce as strong
of a joint since the glue will not have as much time to react with the plastic.
Zap should be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position. I've found
that an empty yogurt container works great for this.
Eric
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
I've had good luck using a modeling glue called Zap. It comes in several
varieties, the "Zap A Gap" variety is a little thicker than the other varieties
in order to make sure that all of the gaps in the joint are filled. Zap takes a
while to cure, so let it sit over night for full strength even though the joint
will be set after about 20 minutes (note that the glue will start reacting with
some plastics almost immediately after application so your working time will be
very short). You can also increase the strength of the joint by gluing a couple
of small pieces of plexiglas across the joint. These will act to help minimize
flex at the joint and reinforce it (do this on the inside surface of the lens if
you can). Note that the manufacturers of Zap also sell a separate catalyst to
speed curing time. I don't recommend use of the catalyst where appearances are
important as it will whiten the cured glue. It also may not produce as strong
of a joint since the glue will not have as much time to react with the plastic.
Zap should be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position. I've found
that an empty yogurt container works great for this.
Eric
09-25-2003, 07:25 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
Zomaar wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
I've had good luck using a modeling glue called Zap. It comes in several
varieties, the "Zap A Gap" variety is a little thicker than the other varieties
in order to make sure that all of the gaps in the joint are filled. Zap takes a
while to cure, so let it sit over night for full strength even though the joint
will be set after about 20 minutes (note that the glue will start reacting with
some plastics almost immediately after application so your working time will be
very short). You can also increase the strength of the joint by gluing a couple
of small pieces of plexiglas across the joint. These will act to help minimize
flex at the joint and reinforce it (do this on the inside surface of the lens if
you can). Note that the manufacturers of Zap also sell a separate catalyst to
speed curing time. I don't recommend use of the catalyst where appearances are
important as it will whiten the cured glue. It also may not produce as strong
of a joint since the glue will not have as much time to react with the plastic.
Zap should be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position. I've found
that an empty yogurt container works great for this.
Eric
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
I've had good luck using a modeling glue called Zap. It comes in several
varieties, the "Zap A Gap" variety is a little thicker than the other varieties
in order to make sure that all of the gaps in the joint are filled. Zap takes a
while to cure, so let it sit over night for full strength even though the joint
will be set after about 20 minutes (note that the glue will start reacting with
some plastics almost immediately after application so your working time will be
very short). You can also increase the strength of the joint by gluing a couple
of small pieces of plexiglas across the joint. These will act to help minimize
flex at the joint and reinforce it (do this on the inside surface of the lens if
you can). Note that the manufacturers of Zap also sell a separate catalyst to
speed curing time. I don't recommend use of the catalyst where appearances are
important as it will whiten the cured glue. It also may not produce as strong
of a joint since the glue will not have as much time to react with the plastic.
Zap should be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position. I've found
that an empty yogurt container works great for this.
Eric
09-25-2003, 07:25 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
Zomaar wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
I've had good luck using a modeling glue called Zap. It comes in several
varieties, the "Zap A Gap" variety is a little thicker than the other varieties
in order to make sure that all of the gaps in the joint are filled. Zap takes a
while to cure, so let it sit over night for full strength even though the joint
will be set after about 20 minutes (note that the glue will start reacting with
some plastics almost immediately after application so your working time will be
very short). You can also increase the strength of the joint by gluing a couple
of small pieces of plexiglas across the joint. These will act to help minimize
flex at the joint and reinforce it (do this on the inside surface of the lens if
you can). Note that the manufacturers of Zap also sell a separate catalyst to
speed curing time. I don't recommend use of the catalyst where appearances are
important as it will whiten the cured glue. It also may not produce as strong
of a joint since the glue will not have as much time to react with the plastic.
Zap should be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position. I've found
that an empty yogurt container works great for this.
Eric
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
I've had good luck using a modeling glue called Zap. It comes in several
varieties, the "Zap A Gap" variety is a little thicker than the other varieties
in order to make sure that all of the gaps in the joint are filled. Zap takes a
while to cure, so let it sit over night for full strength even though the joint
will be set after about 20 minutes (note that the glue will start reacting with
some plastics almost immediately after application so your working time will be
very short). You can also increase the strength of the joint by gluing a couple
of small pieces of plexiglas across the joint. These will act to help minimize
flex at the joint and reinforce it (do this on the inside surface of the lens if
you can). Note that the manufacturers of Zap also sell a separate catalyst to
speed curing time. I don't recommend use of the catalyst where appearances are
important as it will whiten the cured glue. It also may not produce as strong
of a joint since the glue will not have as much time to react with the plastic.
Zap should be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position. I've found
that an empty yogurt container works great for this.
Eric
09-25-2003, 09:42 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
"Zomaar" <news@aliNOSPAMrobb.com> wrote in message
news:caIcb.10118$vX3.1797417@wards.force9.net...
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result
I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went
white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
> Thanks, Ali
>
I have found that Seal-All adhesive makes good watertight, weatherproof
repairs. It is slightly thick and clear, sets up rubbery, but clear. I
find it readily in hardware stores in the US.
Dave
>
09-25-2003, 09:42 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
"Zomaar" <news@aliNOSPAMrobb.com> wrote in message
news:caIcb.10118$vX3.1797417@wards.force9.net...
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result
I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went
white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
> Thanks, Ali
>
I have found that Seal-All adhesive makes good watertight, weatherproof
repairs. It is slightly thick and clear, sets up rubbery, but clear. I
find it readily in hardware stores in the US.
Dave
>
09-25-2003, 09:42 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
"Zomaar" <news@aliNOSPAMrobb.com> wrote in message
news:caIcb.10118$vX3.1797417@wards.force9.net...
> Hi,
>
> My wife reversed my 89 Prelude into a fence last night, and as a result
I've
> now got 2 bits of rear light cluster on my workbench.
>
> What type of glue do you suggest I use to stick it all back together? I've
> used superglue in the past on other plastics, but found the joint went
white
> soon after.
>
> Would modellers glue stay clear, and be flexible/tough enough for the job?
>
> Thanks, Ali
>
I have found that Seal-All adhesive makes good watertight, weatherproof
repairs. It is slightly thick and clear, sets up rubbery, but clear. I
find it readily in hardware stores in the US.
Dave
>
09-26-2003, 05:55 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
"Zomaar" <news@aliNOSPAMrobb.com> wrote in message
news:caIcb.10118$vX3.1797417@wards.force9.net...
Eric and Dave,
Many thanks for your informative replies - they're much appreciated.
I'm in the UK so I'll try and find similar alternatives over here.
Ali
09-26-2003, 05:55 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
"Zomaar" <news@aliNOSPAMrobb.com> wrote in message
news:caIcb.10118$vX3.1797417@wards.force9.net...
Eric and Dave,
Many thanks for your informative replies - they're much appreciated.
I'm in the UK so I'll try and find similar alternatives over here.
Ali
09-26-2003, 05:55 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A sticky question...
"Zomaar" <news@aliNOSPAMrobb.com> wrote in message
news:caIcb.10118$vX3.1797417@wards.force9.net...
Eric and Dave,
Many thanks for your informative replies - they're much appreciated.
I'm in the UK so I'll try and find similar alternatives over here.
Ali
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