Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:


>
> If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
> from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,


Corrections:

From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.

Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
be able to see the needle's movement.

(I really should proofread better before I post...)



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:


>
> If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
> from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,


Corrections:

From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.

Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
be able to see the needle's movement.

(I really should proofread better before I post...)



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Hi all,

Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
group that this code is generally reliable.

The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.

I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
failures like this going forward?

THanks,
Derek

Tegger wrote:
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>
>
> >
> > If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
> > from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>
>
> Corrections:
>
> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>
> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
> be able to see the needle's movement.
>
> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>
>
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Hi all,

Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
group that this code is generally reliable.

The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.

I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
failures like this going forward?

THanks,
Derek

Tegger wrote:
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>
>
> >
> > If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
> > from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>
>
> Corrections:
>
> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>
> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
> be able to see the needle's movement.
>
> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>
>
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Hi all,

Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
group that this code is generally reliable.

The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.

I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
failures like this going forward?

THanks,
Derek

Tegger wrote:
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>
>
> >
> > If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
> > from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>
>
> Corrections:
>
> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>
> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
> be able to see the needle's movement.
>
> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>
>
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Hi all,

Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
group that this code is generally reliable.

The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.

I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
failures like this going forward?

THanks,
Derek

Tegger wrote:
> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>
>
> >
> > If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
> > from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>
>
> Corrections:
>
> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>
> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
> be able to see the needle's movement.
>
> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>
>
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

dex3703 wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
> group that this code is generally reliable.
>
> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
> seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
> whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
> intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>
> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
> failures like this going forward?

the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the sensor,
you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole sensor. you
can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it contacts a wider
track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

>
> THanks,
> Derek
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
>> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>>
>>
>>> If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
>>> from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>>
>> Corrections:
>>
>> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>>
>> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
>> be able to see the needle's movement.
>>
>> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

dex3703 wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
> group that this code is generally reliable.
>
> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
> seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
> whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
> intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>
> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
> failures like this going forward?

the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the sensor,
you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole sensor. you
can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it contacts a wider
track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

>
> THanks,
> Derek
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
>> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>>
>>
>>> If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
>>> from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>>
>> Corrections:
>>
>> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>>
>> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
>> be able to see the needle's movement.
>>
>> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

dex3703 wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
> group that this code is generally reliable.
>
> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
> seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
> whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
> intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>
> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
> failures like this going forward?

the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the sensor,
you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole sensor. you
can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it contacts a wider
track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

>
> THanks,
> Derek
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
>> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>>
>>
>>> If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
>>> from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>>
>> Corrections:
>>
>> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>>
>> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
>> be able to see the needle's movement.
>>
>> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

dex3703 wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on the
> group that this code is generally reliable.
>
> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs and
> seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when I'm at
> whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem is
> intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>
> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
> failures like this going forward?

the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the sensor,
you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole sensor. you
can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it contacts a wider
track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

>
> THanks,
> Derek
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
>> news:Xns98BFBF8CDEB49tegger@207.14.116.130:
>>
>>
>>> If there are no hitches in the multimeter's needle travel all the way
>>> from open to closed, and the voltage rises from roughly 0.1V to 0.45V,
>>
>> Corrections:
>>
>> From about 0.1V to about 4.5V.
>>
>> Set the multimeter to 5V DC for the variable wire. Any higher and you won't
>> be able to see the needle's movement.
>>
>> (I really should proofread better before I post...)
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> dex3703 wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>
>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>
>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>> failures like this going forward?
>
> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
> sensor.

Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

>
> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> dex3703 wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>
>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>
>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>> failures like this going forward?
>
> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
> sensor.

Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

>
> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> dex3703 wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>
>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>
>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>> failures like this going forward?
>
> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
> sensor.

Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

>
> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> dex3703 wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>
>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>
>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>> failures like this going forward?
>
> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
> sensor.

Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.

I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

>
> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> dex3703 wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>
>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>
>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>> failures like this going forward?
>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>> sensor.
>
> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

>
>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>
> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

>
>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>