Bill

What type/brand spark plug wire puller do I need for my 92 Honda
Accord?

The last time I took off my spark plug wires, I just pulled on the
wire and they broke. Now I need to take of the new wires to look for a
problem and I don't want to break my new wires.

The ones at the auto parts store didn't look like they would fit.

My Honda Accord doesn't look like it has much room around the plug,
around the wires, so I'm guessing there is a special puller that isn't
very large, that will fit it, that will go down in the hole.

Anyone know where I can get a puller that will work for this engine?

Thanks,
Bill

Brian Smith

Bill wrote:
> What type/brand spark plug wire puller do I need for my 92 Honda
> Accord?
>
> The last time I took off my spark plug wires, I just pulled on the
> wire and they broke. Now I need to take of the new wires to look for a
> problem and I don't want to break my new wires.
>
> The ones at the auto parts store didn't look like they would fit.
>
> My Honda Accord doesn't look like it has much room around the plug,
> around the wires, so I'm guessing there is a special puller that isn't
> very large, that will fit it, that will go down in the hole.
>
> Anyone know where I can get a puller that will work for this engine?

You might try looking at the end of your arms, that's where I found and
keep mine. :^)

Tegger

Bill <bill_activist@yahoo.com> wrote in news:2fc23378-9291-4071-bf9d-
739064a9c585@i18g2000pro.googlegroups.com:

> What type/brand spark plug wire puller do I need for my 92 Honda
> Accord?
>
> The last time I took off my spark plug wires, I just pulled on the
> wire and they broke. Now I need to take of the new wires to look for a
> problem and I don't want to break my new wires.
>
> The ones at the auto parts store didn't look like they would fit.
>
> My Honda Accord doesn't look like it has much room around the plug,
> around the wires, so I'm guessing there is a special puller that isn't
> very large, that will fit it, that will go down in the hole.
>
> Anyone know where I can get a puller that will work for this engine?
>



You're supposed to pull on the boot, not on the wire itself.

A '92 Accord will have a 4-cylinder engine. The plugs will be right on top,
as accessible as can be. Not like those awful V6s which require you to be
both a double-jointed contortionist and Chihuahua-sized to get at them.

Of course, I assume the use of (high quality) OEM Honda wires. If you're
using (low quality) aftermarket wires, all bets are off. I've seen lots of
aftermarket wires where the boots are a slip-fit on the wires and will
slide if you try to pull on them, encouraging people to pull on the wires
directly.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Greg Campbell

Bill wrote:

> What type/brand spark plug wire puller do I need for my 92 Honda
> Accord?
>
> The last time I took off my spark plug wires, I just pulled on the
> wire and they broke. Now I need to take of the new wires to look for a
> problem and I don't want to break my new wires.
>
> The ones at the auto parts store didn't look like they would fit.
>
> My Honda Accord doesn't look like it has much room around the plug,
> around the wires, so I'm guessing there is a special puller that isn't
> very large, that will fit it, that will go down in the hole.
>
> Anyone know where I can get a puller that will work for this engine?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill

No special tools required. Rotate the top seal to loosen it, then grasp
the seal/boot assembly and gently pull. They should pop off w/o much of
a fight.

OEM and good aftermarket plug leads feature a rigid 'post' section that
bridges the plug clip and boot interface. Pulling on the to of this
should pull everything out cleanly and safely. Something like this:
http://www.autotoys.com/pics/apc1510spark.jpg

Before bombing away with the plug wrench, check for oil! The plug tubes
are sealed from the cam area by o-rings which tend to leak when they
age. A stiff paper towel folded over a few times makes a good probe -
and mop. If excess oil is accumulating, it may trigger a (partial)
misfire on the affected cylinder.

-Greg

Seth

"Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
news:Xns9C6EDF7878EFCtegger@208.90.168.18...
>
> as accessible as can be. Not like those awful V6s which require you to be
> both a double-jointed contortionist and Chihuahua-sized to get at them.


What year or years does that apply to? On my '01 V6 there are no plug wires.
Plug wires have been replaced with a sort of "electrical shaft" with a stiff
tubular body that goes down the hole in the head directly to the wires and
it's held in place with a single bolt. 3-pin wire harness connects to the
top of this.

Bill

On Aug 21, 9:21 pm, Greg Campbell <nos...@null.net> wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > What type/brand spark plug wire puller do I need for my 92 Honda
> > Accord?
>
> > The last time I took off my spark plug wires, I just pulled on the
> > wire and they broke. Now I need to take of the new wires to look for a
> > problem and I don't want to break my new wires.
>
> > The ones at the auto parts store didn't look like they would fit.
>
> > My Honda Accord doesn't look like it has much room around the plug,
> > around the wires, so I'm guessing there is a special puller that isn't
> > very large, that will fit it, that will go down in the hole.
>
> > Anyone know where I can get a puller that will work for this engine?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
>
> No special tools required. Rotate the top seal to loosen it, then grasp
> the seal/boot assembly and gently pull. They should pop off w/o much of
> a fight.
>
> OEM and good aftermarket plug leads feature a rigid 'post' section that
> bridges the plug clip and boot interface. Pulling on the to of this
> should pull everything out cleanly and safely. Something like this:http://www.autotoys.com/pics/apc1510spark.jpg
>
> Before bombing away with the plug wrench, check for oil! The plug tubes
> are sealed from the cam area by o-rings which tend to leak when they
> age. A stiff paper towel folded over a few times makes a good probe -
> and mop. If excess oil is accumulating, it may trigger a (partial)
> misfire on the affected cylinder.
>
> -Greg

Thanks Greg,

Yes, that is what I'm looking for, wondering about. It started missing
and dieing at idle about a month ago, so I decided to change the spark
plugs and wires, which I hadn't done for a while.

I was surprised to discover a lot of oil around one spark plug. I
cleaned the oil out, changed the plugs and wires and that fixed it, it
ran much better. Now, it's a month later and started running poorly
again, so I want to take off the spark plug wire and see if there is
oil in there.

Can you tell me more about the o-rings? What would I need to do to
replace these o-rings? What are they called, when I go to buy new
ones?

Gracias,
Bill

Tegger

"Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:h6nuie$jtb$1@news.eternal-september.org:

> "Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
> news:Xns9C6EDF7878EFCtegger@208.90.168.18...
>>
>> as accessible as can be. Not like those awful V6s which require you
>> to be both a double-jointed contortionist and Chihuahua-sized to get
>> at them.
>
>
> What year or years does that apply to?



Whichever years have distributors and the accompanying plug wires.



> On my '01 V6 there are no plug
> wires. Plug wires have been replaced with a sort of "electrical shaft"
> with a stiff tubular body that goes down the hole in the head directly
> to the wires and it's held in place with a single bolt. 3-pin wire
> harness connects to the top of this.
>


Those do not come apart by accident. All you need is your hands to pull
them.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger

Bill <bill_activist@yahoo.com> wrote in news:52320719-99ec-4d31-ba74-
735513b275af@q40g2000prh.googlegroups.com:


>
> I was surprised to discover a lot of oil around one spark plug. I
> cleaned the oil out, changed the plugs and wires and that fixed it, it
> ran much better. Now, it's a month later and started running poorly
> again, so I want to take off the spark plug wire and see if there is
> oil in there.
>
> Can you tell me more about the o-rings? What would I need to do to
> replace these o-rings? What are they called, when I go to buy new
> ones?
>


This page is for the Civic, but the general idea is the same:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Greg Campbell

Tegger wrote:

> Bill:

>> Can you tell me more about the o-rings? What would I need to do to
>> replace these o-rings? What are they called, when I go to buy new
>> ones?

> This page is for the Civic, but the general idea is the same:
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html


Your/My 92 Accord is VERY similar. Here's a pic of the top set. These
can be changed in around 10 minutes - just pull the valve cover and
pluck them off the surface. You wanted to check the valve lash anyway,
right?
http://members.***.net/geonerd/images/Clean_Valves.jpg

Swapping the bottom set requires a bit more effort, as the entire valve
rocker assembly needs to be lifted. The whole mess is well tied
together by the two rocker pivot shafts, but it's still a somewhat
ticklish operation. You'll need to release the cam hold down caps,
possibly allowing the cam belt tensioner to 'suck' the pulley end down.
If that happens, the left end of the cam will be pointed at the sky,
leaving you with (much) more work to reach and unwind the tensioner.
I'm holding off 'till I change the cam belt this fall. Until then, I
swab out the plug tubes during the weekly engine check-up.

-G

Greg Campbell

Here's an F22 specific guide.
http://hondatuning.info/accord-f22-s...l-replacement/

Keith W

"Greg Campbell" <nospam@null.net> wrote in message
news:JLUjm.116285$9P.35378@newsfe08.iad...
> Here's an F22 specific guide.
> http://hondatuning.info/accord-f22-s...l-replacement/

Here is where I show my lack of engineering knowledge. Perhaps you can
enlighten me. The instructions speak of in/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches
and the text refers to 108in/lb torque and 84in/lb torque. I always
understood that this translated as, in the first case, as the pull of one
pound if applied at a lever length of 108 inches. That would mean that
these translate to 9ft/lb and 7ft/lb respectively which would mean only a
ft/lb torque wrench would be required. Where am I going wrong?
--
Keith W
Sunbury on Thames
(If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living)

Tegger

"Keith W" <invalidaddress@invalidaddress.invalid> wrote in
news:h6r64r$un5$1@news.albasani.net:

>
> "Greg Campbell" <nospam@null.net> wrote in message
> news:JLUjm.116285$9P.35378@newsfe08.iad...
>> Here's an F22 specific guide.
>> http://hondatuning.info/accord-f22-s...l-replacement/
>
> Here is where I show my lack of engineering knowledge. Perhaps you
> can enlighten me. The instructions speak of in/lb and ft/lb torque
> wrenches and the text refers to 108in/lb torque and 84in/lb torque.
> I always understood that this translated as, in the first case, as the
> pull of one pound if applied at a lever length of 108 inches. That
> would mean that these translate to 9ft/lb and 7ft/lb respectively
> which would mean only a ft/lb torque wrench would be required. Where
> am I going wrong?



Torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle third of their range.
9 and 7 lbs are very much on the low side for a foot/pound wrench
(completely off the scale on most click-type ft/lb wrenches), so a wrench
of low capacity is used so that the desired torque will be closer to the
middle third of that wrench's capability. And those are calibrated in inch
pounds (an inch pound is one twelfth of a foot pound).


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Keith W

"Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
news:Xns9C70644B56F26tegger@208.90.168.18...
> "Keith W" <invalidaddress@invalidaddress.invalid> wrote in
> news:h6r64r$un5$1@news.albasani.net:
>
>>
>> "Greg Campbell" <nospam@null.net> wrote in message
>> news:JLUjm.116285$9P.35378@newsfe08.iad...
>>> Here's an F22 specific guide.
>>> http://hondatuning.info/accord-f22-s...l-replacement/
>>
>> Here is where I show my lack of engineering knowledge. Perhaps you
>> can enlighten me. The instructions speak of in/lb and ft/lb torque
>> wrenches and the text refers to 108in/lb torque and 84in/lb torque.
>> I always understood that this translated as, in the first case, as the
>> pull of one pound if applied at a lever length of 108 inches. That
>> would mean that these translate to 9ft/lb and 7ft/lb respectively
>> which would mean only a ft/lb torque wrench would be required. Where
>> am I going wrong?
>
>
>
> Torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle third of their range.
> 9 and 7 lbs are very much on the low side for a foot/pound wrench
> (completely off the scale on most click-type ft/lb wrenches), so a wrench
> of low capacity is used so that the desired torque will be closer to the
> middle third of that wrench's capability. And those are calibrated in inch
> pounds (an inch pound is one twelfth of a foot pound).
>

That explains it. I was right in my assumption but was not aware of the
niceties of equipment. Many thanks for the explanation.
--
Keith W
Sunbury on Thames