Edwin Pawlowski

"irwell" <hook@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> To keep them running with the lowest expenditure we
> have done the following amongst other jobs.
>
> Replaced radiators, hoses, brake linings and pads, batteries,
> spark plugs, oil and filters, distributors. iginition coils,
> rebuilt carburettors, rebuilt alternators (brushes), rotated wheels,
> constant velocity joint.
>
> Jobs left to more experienced mechanics include timing belt,
> clutch replacement, if my 2001 Elantra requires that type of
> work probabaly use the dealer, they have been quite good so far.

What, no water pumps? I remember replacing the water pump on my '71 Ford
V-8 and could not remember how the belts (3) went back on. I got in my
other car and drove around town looking for a similar model on a used car
lot. Found one, marked the belt sequence, went back home and finished. It
was also dark and very cold and I had no garage.

Today, I'm older and fortunately make a little more money so I"m willing to
pay for some repairs. I no longer crawl under cars in the cold. Or the
heat. But I'm also a little less likely to get screwed over by a shady shop
because I know the basics.

irwell

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 02:55:34 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net>
wrote:

>
>"irwell" <hook@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> To keep them running with the lowest expenditure we
>> have done the following amongst other jobs.
>>
>> Replaced radiators, hoses, brake linings and pads, batteries,
>> spark plugs, oil and filters, distributors. iginition coils,
>> rebuilt carburettors, rebuilt alternators (brushes), rotated wheels,
>> constant velocity joint.
>>
>> Jobs left to more experienced mechanics include timing belt,
>> clutch replacement, if my 2001 Elantra requires that type of
>> work probabaly use the dealer, they have been quite good so far.
>
>What, no water pumps?

Yes, at least a couple, also the power steering pump. tore it down
just to replace a faulty O-ring that caused the fluid to leak.

> I remember replacing the water pump on my '71 Ford
>V-8 and could not remember how the belts (3) went back on. I got in my
>other car and drove around town looking for a similar model on a used car
>lot. Found one, marked the belt sequence, went back home and finished. It
>was also dark and very cold and I had no garage.
>
>Today, I'm older and fortunately make a little more money so I"m willing to
>pay for some repairs.

Ditto, my four score years have come and gone, so if I get under
the car I have to cry for help to get back out!

Old_Timer

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 02:55:34 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net>
wrote:

>

>
>What, no water pumps? I remember replacing the water pump on my '71 Ford
>V-8 and could not remember how the belts (3) went back on. I got in my
>other car and drove around town looking for a similar model on a used car
>lot. Found one, marked the belt sequence, went back home and finished. It
>was also dark and very cold and I had no garage.
>
>Today, I'm older and fortunately make a little more money so I"m willing to
>pay for some repairs. I no longer crawl under cars in the cold. Or the
>heat. But I'm also a little less likely to get screwed over by a shady shop
>because I know the basics.
>
Somewhat off topic, perhaps, but I could not resist responding.

It was on New Year's day many years ago that I and another teenager
replaced the differential gears on his Model A Ford, outdoors and in
the snow.

It was a first ime experinece for each of us working on a
differential. We parked my 32 Chevy behind his Model A and one of us
would crawl under the Ford for a while and the other would be in the
Chevy with the heater going and then after some time we woud trade
places.

Those were the tough old days.

Old_Timer

Old_Timer

On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 19:07:01 -0800, irwell <hook@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 02:55:34 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>"irwell" <hook@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>> To keep them running with the lowest expenditure we
>>> have done the following amongst other jobs.
>>>
>>> Replaced radiators, hoses, brake linings and pads, batteries,
>>> spark plugs, oil and filters, distributors. iginition coils,
>>> rebuilt carburettors, rebuilt alternators (brushes), rotated wheels,
>>> constant velocity joint.
>>>
>>> Jobs left to more experienced mechanics include timing belt,
>>> clutch replacement, if my 2001 Elantra requires that type of
>>> work probabaly use the dealer, they have been quite good so far.
>>
>>What, no water pumps?
>
>Yes, at least a couple, also the power steering pump. tore it down
>just to replace a faulty O-ring that caused the fluid to leak.
>
>> I remember replacing the water pump on my '71 Ford
>>V-8 and could not remember how the belts (3) went back on. I got in my
>>other car and drove around town looking for a similar model on a used car
>>lot. Found one, marked the belt sequence, went back home and finished. It
>>was also dark and very cold and I had no garage.
>>
>>Today, I'm older and fortunately make a little more money so I"m willing to
>>pay for some repairs.
>
>Ditto, my four score years have come and gone, so if I get under
>the car I have to cry for help to get back out!
>

My four score and ten have also come and gone but one may still be apt
to see me crawling under my car or truck occasionally.

A couple of days ago I pulled a rear wheel off of my car in order to
examine the wear on the brakes. They were worn and ready for
replacement. At that point I put the wheel back on took it to a shop
and had them replaced. It can be a hassle when one must take the
rotors off at home and carry them to shop and wait for them to be
turned. They did need to be turned because they were warped.

Old_Timer

Brian Nystrom

Old_Timer wrote:
> On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 19:07:01 -0800, irwell <hook@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 02:55:34 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> "irwell" <hook@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> To keep them running with the lowest expenditure we
>>>> have done the following amongst other jobs.
>>>>
>>>> Replaced radiators, hoses, brake linings and pads, batteries,
>>>> spark plugs, oil and filters, distributors. iginition coils,
>>>> rebuilt carburettors, rebuilt alternators (brushes), rotated wheels,
>>>> constant velocity joint.
>>>>
>>>> Jobs left to more experienced mechanics include timing belt,
>>>> clutch replacement, if my 2001 Elantra requires that type of
>>>> work probabaly use the dealer, they have been quite good so far.
>>> What, no water pumps?
>> Yes, at least a couple, also the power steering pump. tore it down
>> just to replace a faulty O-ring that caused the fluid to leak.
>>
>>> I remember replacing the water pump on my '71 Ford
>>> V-8 and could not remember how the belts (3) went back on. I got in my
>>> other car and drove around town looking for a similar model on a used car
>>> lot. Found one, marked the belt sequence, went back home and finished. It
>>> was also dark and very cold and I had no garage.
>>>
>>> Today, I'm older and fortunately make a little more money so I"m willing to
>>> pay for some repairs.
>> Ditto, my four score years have come and gone, so if I get under
>> the car I have to cry for help to get back out!
>>
>
> My four score and ten have also come and gone but one may still be apt
> to see me crawling under my car or truck occasionally.
>
> A couple of days ago I pulled a rear wheel off of my car in order to
> examine the wear on the brakes. They were worn and ready for
> replacement. At that point I put the wheel back on took it to a shop
> and had them replaced. It can be a hassle when one must take the
> rotors off at home and carry them to shop and wait for them to be
> turned. They did need to be turned because they were warped.

If that was the case, you'd have been better off to replace them. Rotors
are so cheap that turning them is pointless.

Rev. Tom Wenndt

In my book, you made a good choice - and the choice I also made with both my
minivan and my son's Elantra within the last month or so.

The place I went to WAS able to turn the rotors on both vehicles. They also
sell me the Raybestos ceramic brake pads for what I would pay for them if I
just bought them retail (both somewhere in the $30-40 range). And they
charged $55 for labor, including the rotor turns.

That sure beats trying to do it in the cold. And the fellow who does them I
KNOW is going to do them right. All in all, a small price to pay for safety
and assurance.


"Meg Frairey" <MegFF@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5tgpo3p350t8h1oo6vebq40mkkhdb07snh@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 13 Jan 2008 11:15:42 -0500, Meg Frairey <MegFF@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Thank you all for the valuable information. It's helped me to decide to
> let my
> mechanic perform the operation - that and Dad came up with the cash to pay
> for it. I
> am going to watch the mechanic do the job though and maybe next time I'll
> tackle it
> myself.
>
> Thanks again!
> Meg

Dave Edwards

Back in high school, or early college, I yanked the 307 out of my mom's
Chevy, and replaced it with a JC Whitney 327.
I also grovelled underneath my '70 Camaro to yank the trans to replace the
clutch & pressure plate...banged out U joints from the drive shaft to
replace also. On the Camaro, I was always swapping out a new Holley with a
'better' one. Headers, shocks, exhaust, intake manifolds, alternators and
yes...brakes were all done in my folk's garage.
But time marched on, and now I am pretty certain I would be on my way to
Meineke if my '04 Santa Fe needed brakes.
I must say I got soft, having a company car all through the '80s and '90s.
But now that I am back on the 35 cents a mile to use my own car for
work....I may again 25 or 30 years later.....shop for a Chilton's manual!!!!
.....now where are my torque wrenches????
.....Dave


"Rev. Tom Wenndt" <trwenndt@grics.net> wrote in message
news:fmnt4o01qkp@enews2.newsguy.com...
> In my book, you made a good choice - and the choice I also made with both
> my minivan and my son's Elantra within the last month or so.
>
> The place I went to WAS able to turn the rotors on both vehicles. They
> also sell me the Raybestos ceramic brake pads for what I would pay for
> them if I just bought them retail (both somewhere in the $30-40 range).
> And they charged $55 for labor, including the rotor turns.
>
> That sure beats trying to do it in the cold. And the fellow who does them
> I KNOW is going to do them right. All in all, a small price to pay for
> safety and assurance.
>
>
> "Meg Frairey" <MegFF@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:5tgpo3p350t8h1oo6vebq40mkkhdb07snh@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 13 Jan 2008 11:15:42 -0500, Meg Frairey <MegFF@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thank you all for the valuable information. It's helped me to decide to
>> let my
>> mechanic perform the operation - that and Dad came up with the cash to
>> pay for it. I
>> am going to watch the mechanic do the job though and maybe next time I'll
>> tackle it
>> myself.
>>
>> Thanks again!
>> Meg
>
>

hyundaitech

"> I am almost aghast at how many people seem to think this step is
> unnecessary - they just replace pads, and on they go. But for your
brakes
> to work properly (something for safety's sake I think you would insist
on),
> you would want a perfect mate to the surface of the pad. Warping,
stones,
> etc. have virtually guaranteed that the surface will not be ideal for
new
> pads until it is re-surfaced.

Sorry, but that's simply incorrect. In fact, the increased surface area
of a worn rotor actually increases stopping power compared to one that's
perfectly smooth. As long as the braking action of the car is smooth
now, with no pulsation that would indicate warped or unevenly worn
rotors, there is nothing to be gained by replacing them unless they are
simply worn too thin, which is unlikely unless this car is already on
its second set of pads, or more."

I think the real answer here is that it depends on the condition of the
rotors. Check to see that the braking surfaces are smooth and are not
rusted. If smooth and clean, and your brakes do not vibrate when applied,
there's no advantage to resurfacing the rotors. In fact, it's a
disadvantage. You'll be removing material from the rotor, which will
decrease its ability to dissipate heat, and you'll also be reducing your
ability to have the rotors resurfaced in the future-- there's a minimum
thickness specification.

--
Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html

nothermark

On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 08:53:58 -0800, irwell <hook@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:34:55 -0500, Meg Frairey <MegFF@comcast.net>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 13 Jan 2008 11:15:42 -0500, Meg Frairey <MegFF@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>Thank you all for the valuable information. It's helped me to decide to let my
>>mechanic perform the operation - that and Dad came up with the cash to pay for it. I
>>am going to watch the mechanic do the job though and maybe next time I'll tackle it
>>myself.
>>
>>Thanks again!
>>Meg
>
> Very wise decision, your life could depend on your
>brakes performing right.
>
>By all means learn how to work on your cars, but some jobs have to be
>left to the professionals.


personal brake job on my elantra weekend before last - new front pads
~ 1 hr. Most time spent getting out and putting back tools. Total
cost $24 for "lifetime" pads from Autozone. Note - Rotors a bit
grooved, toss them next time. 500 miles and multiple stops at various
speeds - they work fine.

Professional brake job last quote $300 for the same job.

Observation on watching the professional. Unless it's Dad the only
thing he will try to really show you is why you should pay him to do
it.