2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
05-04-2009, 08:26 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
On May 1, 12:15 pm, Alan <alanremoveca...@excite.com> wrote:
> So, is it possible I never should have brought the car in and instead
> run it for awhile as the ECM relearns the car?
I don't think I'd say "should have." Perhaps "could have." In any
case, you shouldn't be expected to. Sears should have done this, and
they should have known to do it.
> But then as he once told me when the air sensor was replaced, the bad
> air sensor could cause something else to go wrong.
This is BS. This one statement makes me think maybe they didn't know
if the air flow sensor was the actual problem and were opening the
door to be able to charge you for more repairs later. A faulty air
flow sensor can make your car run poorly, but it cannot damage other
components.
> Maybe that's true
> but I am so disbelieving because plugs and wires cannot go in a day
> and the car was smooth but stalling before the dealer got it and
> afterward it was still stalling AND the car sounded like it had
> Bronchitis and smelled of gas after I stopped.
> One other thing happened occasionally, when I was driving on the
> highway for any length of time and got off at a short exit, the car
> would sometimes shake a little when I had to come to a quick stop.
> That was before anything happened. It rarely happened but did
> sometimes, can that mean anything?
It sounds like maybe you had a misfire problem developing or perhaps
an EGR solenoid sticking open. If it were the misfire and you had a
misfire code stored in the PCM, that would explain the dealer checking
the plugs and surmising the plugs were potentially the issue,
especially if by the time the car got to them, the throttle had
already self-learned.
> NGK will not void the guarantee on the drive train?
Not unless they cause a powertrain failure. Note that the plugs are
not considered powertrain components. Furthermore, either the factory
originals or replacements (can't remember which) are NGK.
> Minimal value is correct but if I get reading that says it's a P9999
> and the dealer says it was a P5555, something is wrong someplace. I
> want to go in a little bit armed with some knowledge.
That's something, but I seriously doubt most dealers would
misrepresent this. The vast majority of misrepairs I see are from
poor diagnosis or technicians being uneducated about proper repair
procedures. Very rarely do I see a car sabotaged or misrepaired with
any sort of malicious intent. Nearly all technicians are at least
attempting to do a good repair job. I can guarantee you that the
dealer did not use a $50 code reader to diagnose your car. The dealer
is required by Hyundai to have a $3000 scan tool and a separate
diagnostic laptop which costs about $9000. The use of the equipement
is part of the reason you're charged a diagnostic fee.
> As far as basic knowledge, it might not hurt to learn how to take car
> of your own car or at least know some of its idiosyncrasies because
> dealerships will be closing all over. I don't know about Hyundai but
> certainly Chrysler and GM will be closing many.
Having some knowledge of your car is a great idea under nearly any
circumstance.
> So, is it possible I never should have brought the car in and instead
> run it for awhile as the ECM relearns the car?
I don't think I'd say "should have." Perhaps "could have." In any
case, you shouldn't be expected to. Sears should have done this, and
they should have known to do it.
> But then as he once told me when the air sensor was replaced, the bad
> air sensor could cause something else to go wrong.
This is BS. This one statement makes me think maybe they didn't know
if the air flow sensor was the actual problem and were opening the
door to be able to charge you for more repairs later. A faulty air
flow sensor can make your car run poorly, but it cannot damage other
components.
> Maybe that's true
> but I am so disbelieving because plugs and wires cannot go in a day
> and the car was smooth but stalling before the dealer got it and
> afterward it was still stalling AND the car sounded like it had
> Bronchitis and smelled of gas after I stopped.
> One other thing happened occasionally, when I was driving on the
> highway for any length of time and got off at a short exit, the car
> would sometimes shake a little when I had to come to a quick stop.
> That was before anything happened. It rarely happened but did
> sometimes, can that mean anything?
It sounds like maybe you had a misfire problem developing or perhaps
an EGR solenoid sticking open. If it were the misfire and you had a
misfire code stored in the PCM, that would explain the dealer checking
the plugs and surmising the plugs were potentially the issue,
especially if by the time the car got to them, the throttle had
already self-learned.
> NGK will not void the guarantee on the drive train?
Not unless they cause a powertrain failure. Note that the plugs are
not considered powertrain components. Furthermore, either the factory
originals or replacements (can't remember which) are NGK.
> Minimal value is correct but if I get reading that says it's a P9999
> and the dealer says it was a P5555, something is wrong someplace. I
> want to go in a little bit armed with some knowledge.
That's something, but I seriously doubt most dealers would
misrepresent this. The vast majority of misrepairs I see are from
poor diagnosis or technicians being uneducated about proper repair
procedures. Very rarely do I see a car sabotaged or misrepaired with
any sort of malicious intent. Nearly all technicians are at least
attempting to do a good repair job. I can guarantee you that the
dealer did not use a $50 code reader to diagnose your car. The dealer
is required by Hyundai to have a $3000 scan tool and a separate
diagnostic laptop which costs about $9000. The use of the equipement
is part of the reason you're charged a diagnostic fee.
> As far as basic knowledge, it might not hurt to learn how to take car
> of your own car or at least know some of its idiosyncrasies because
> dealerships will be closing all over. I don't know about Hyundai but
> certainly Chrysler and GM will be closing many.
Having some knowledge of your car is a great idea under nearly any
circumstance.
05-06-2009, 03:06 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
I just priced the parts and the plugs, the wires and the plenum gasket
were $152.42 from the dealer where I bought the car (another one
opened closer, and that is the one I took the car to because I could
get a ride back). That is before I buy the computer and the torque
wrench. I already spent that $100 which I believe that would apply to
this job (but maybe not), so I am at $252.42 plus the computer and the
wrench...another $75 so that is $325. If I go back to the dealer it
will cost me $510 plus tax or about $550. I'll save $225, learn
something about the car, walk away with a computer and a torque wrench
and the a chance to have something fall into the intake manifold and
blow the engine! Just kidding about the last one. It's not a lot of
money but it is the principle of it all and the fact that it might be
fun to do this. If worse come to worse, I can call the AAA and ask
them to tow the car to a gas station or a dealer.
I am going to get all the parts from the dealer since the prices were
fairly good $11.22 for the plenum gasket, 50.88 for the wires and
$13.19 for the plugs plus tax. Or I can get the better NGK PFR5N-11
plugs and the NGK KRX009 Wires and the gasket for a little more from
Amazon.
Alan
On Mon, 4 May 2009 17:26:32 -0700 (PDT), hyundaitech
<hyundaimech@gmail.com> wrote:
>On May 1, 12:15 pm, Alan <alanremoveca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> So, is it possible I never should have brought the car in and instead
>> run it for awhile as the ECM relearns the car?
>
>I don't think I'd say "should have." Perhaps "could have." In any
>case, you shouldn't be expected to. Sears should have done this, and
>they should have known to do it.
>
>> But then as he once told me when the air sensor was replaced, the bad
>> air sensor could cause something else to go wrong.
>
>This is BS. This one statement makes me think maybe they didn't know
>if the air flow sensor was the actual problem and were opening the
>door to be able to charge you for more repairs later. A faulty air
>flow sensor can make your car run poorly, but it cannot damage other
>components.
>
>> Maybe that's true
>> but I am so disbelieving because plugs and wires cannot go in a day
>> and the car was smooth but stalling before the dealer got it and
>> afterward it was still stalling AND the car sounded like it had
>> Bronchitis and smelled of gas after I stopped.
>
>> One other thing happened occasionally, when I was driving on the
>> highway for any length of time and got off at a short exit, the car
>> would sometimes shake a little when I had to come to a quick stop.
>> That was before anything happened. It rarely happened but did
>> sometimes, can that mean anything?
>
>It sounds like maybe you had a misfire problem developing or perhaps
>an EGR solenoid sticking open. If it were the misfire and you had a
>misfire code stored in the PCM, that would explain the dealer checking
>the plugs and surmising the plugs were potentially the issue,
>especially if by the time the car got to them, the throttle had
>already self-learned.
>
>
>> NGK will not void the guarantee on the drive train?
>
>Not unless they cause a powertrain failure. Note that the plugs are
>not considered powertrain components. Furthermore, either the factory
>originals or replacements (can't remember which) are NGK.
>
>
>> Minimal value is correct but if I get reading that says it's a P9999
>> and the dealer says it was a P5555, something is wrong someplace. I
>> want to go in a little bit armed with some knowledge.
>
>That's something, but I seriously doubt most dealers would
>misrepresent this. The vast majority of misrepairs I see are from
>poor diagnosis or technicians being uneducated about proper repair
>procedures. Very rarely do I see a car sabotaged or misrepaired with
>any sort of malicious intent. Nearly all technicians are at least
>attempting to do a good repair job. I can guarantee you that the
>dealer did not use a $50 code reader to diagnose your car. The dealer
>is required by Hyundai to have a $3000 scan tool and a separate
>diagnostic laptop which costs about $9000. The use of the equipement
>is part of the reason you're charged a diagnostic fee.
>
>> As far as basic knowledge, it might not hurt to learn how to take car
>> of your own car or at least know some of its idiosyncrasies because
>> dealerships will be closing all over. I don't know about Hyundai but
>> certainly Chrysler and GM will be closing many.
>
>Having some knowledge of your car is a great idea under nearly any
>circumstance.
were $152.42 from the dealer where I bought the car (another one
opened closer, and that is the one I took the car to because I could
get a ride back). That is before I buy the computer and the torque
wrench. I already spent that $100 which I believe that would apply to
this job (but maybe not), so I am at $252.42 plus the computer and the
wrench...another $75 so that is $325. If I go back to the dealer it
will cost me $510 plus tax or about $550. I'll save $225, learn
something about the car, walk away with a computer and a torque wrench
and the a chance to have something fall into the intake manifold and
blow the engine! Just kidding about the last one. It's not a lot of
money but it is the principle of it all and the fact that it might be
fun to do this. If worse come to worse, I can call the AAA and ask
them to tow the car to a gas station or a dealer.
I am going to get all the parts from the dealer since the prices were
fairly good $11.22 for the plenum gasket, 50.88 for the wires and
$13.19 for the plugs plus tax. Or I can get the better NGK PFR5N-11
plugs and the NGK KRX009 Wires and the gasket for a little more from
Amazon.
Alan
On Mon, 4 May 2009 17:26:32 -0700 (PDT), hyundaitech
<hyundaimech@gmail.com> wrote:
>On May 1, 12:15 pm, Alan <alanremoveca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> So, is it possible I never should have brought the car in and instead
>> run it for awhile as the ECM relearns the car?
>
>I don't think I'd say "should have." Perhaps "could have." In any
>case, you shouldn't be expected to. Sears should have done this, and
>they should have known to do it.
>
>> But then as he once told me when the air sensor was replaced, the bad
>> air sensor could cause something else to go wrong.
>
>This is BS. This one statement makes me think maybe they didn't know
>if the air flow sensor was the actual problem and were opening the
>door to be able to charge you for more repairs later. A faulty air
>flow sensor can make your car run poorly, but it cannot damage other
>components.
>
>> Maybe that's true
>> but I am so disbelieving because plugs and wires cannot go in a day
>> and the car was smooth but stalling before the dealer got it and
>> afterward it was still stalling AND the car sounded like it had
>> Bronchitis and smelled of gas after I stopped.
>
>> One other thing happened occasionally, when I was driving on the
>> highway for any length of time and got off at a short exit, the car
>> would sometimes shake a little when I had to come to a quick stop.
>> That was before anything happened. It rarely happened but did
>> sometimes, can that mean anything?
>
>It sounds like maybe you had a misfire problem developing or perhaps
>an EGR solenoid sticking open. If it were the misfire and you had a
>misfire code stored in the PCM, that would explain the dealer checking
>the plugs and surmising the plugs were potentially the issue,
>especially if by the time the car got to them, the throttle had
>already self-learned.
>
>
>> NGK will not void the guarantee on the drive train?
>
>Not unless they cause a powertrain failure. Note that the plugs are
>not considered powertrain components. Furthermore, either the factory
>originals or replacements (can't remember which) are NGK.
>
>
>> Minimal value is correct but if I get reading that says it's a P9999
>> and the dealer says it was a P5555, something is wrong someplace. I
>> want to go in a little bit armed with some knowledge.
>
>That's something, but I seriously doubt most dealers would
>misrepresent this. The vast majority of misrepairs I see are from
>poor diagnosis or technicians being uneducated about proper repair
>procedures. Very rarely do I see a car sabotaged or misrepaired with
>any sort of malicious intent. Nearly all technicians are at least
>attempting to do a good repair job. I can guarantee you that the
>dealer did not use a $50 code reader to diagnose your car. The dealer
>is required by Hyundai to have a $3000 scan tool and a separate
>diagnostic laptop which costs about $9000. The use of the equipement
>is part of the reason you're charged a diagnostic fee.
>
>> As far as basic knowledge, it might not hurt to learn how to take car
>> of your own car or at least know some of its idiosyncrasies because
>> dealerships will be closing all over. I don't know about Hyundai but
>> certainly Chrysler and GM will be closing many.
>
>Having some knowledge of your car is a great idea under nearly any
>circumstance.
05-06-2009, 07:42 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
"Alan" <alanremovecalan@excite.com> wrote in message
news:l0l305hgg36c2mb6g4kmr94ojja3nc0hta@4ax.com...
>I just priced the parts and the plugs, the wires and the plenum gasket
> were $152.42 from the dealer where I bought the car (another one
> opened closer, and that is the one I took the car to because I could
> get a ride back). That is before I buy the computer and the torque
> wrench. I already spent that $100 which I believe that would apply to
> this job (but maybe not), so I am at $252.42 plus the computer and the
> wrench...another $75 so that is $325. If I go back to the dealer it
> will cost me $510 plus tax or about $550. I'll save $225, learn
> something about the car, walk away with a computer and a torque wrench
> and the a chance to have something fall into the intake manifold and
> blow the engine! Just kidding about the last one. It's not a lot of
> money but it is the principle of it all and the fact that it might be
> fun to do this. If worse come to worse, I can call the AAA and ask
> them to tow the car to a gas station or a dealer.
>
> I am going to get all the parts from the dealer since the prices were
> fairly good $11.22 for the plenum gasket, 50.88 for the wires and
> $13.19 for the plugs plus tax. Or I can get the better NGK PFR5N-11
> plugs and the NGK KRX009 Wires and the gasket for a little more from
> Amazon.
>
> Alan
>
Way to go Alan. No better way to learn than to grenade a car of two.
Joking, of course... Do yourself a favor and get yourself a free account on
the Hyundai web site. You'll need IE since it does not recognize Firefox.
Complete service information at your fingertips (well - with a little
searching...) and all for free.
--
-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net
05-06-2009, 09:37 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
"Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net> wrote in message
>
> Way to go Alan. No better way to learn than to grenade a car of two.
> Joking, of course... Do yourself a favor and get yourself a free account
> on the Hyundai web site.
Mike forgot the link. www.hmaservice.com not the regular Hyundai site.
05-07-2009, 06:00 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
I bought the plugs, wires and the gasket for Hyundai. One thing
suprised me and that was that there were only 3 wires. They guy in
parts said that the other three are connected to three coils and the
three wires are connected to those three coils too.
When looking on Amazon.com for the parts there was a set of NGK wires
forthe XG300 that were $80 plus dollars while the some of the other
NGK sets were about $50 for 6 wires.
It seems as though the NGK wires are only three also that are
connected to the three coils that are connected to the other three
plugs They look like good wires:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...s/wiresets.asp
So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
Just as a little aside about supidity and incompetence, I had a new
pool heater installed the other day and no I never thought of doing it
myself. However, this new heater has the wires coming in higher than
the original one. The wires were long enough but the flexible pvc
tubing was too short. The installer tells me I have to call an
electrician for that. I said to you him, "You must be kidding. I
have to pay $300 for an electrcian to come here look at the job and
then get his assisstant to paste up an extension? I learned how to
paste things in first grade."
I was pissed off they didn't carry the tubing, connectors and pvc glue
with them. So for $2.11, I got 2 ft of tubing and two connectors and
for $4.50 I got the pvc glue. One of the owners of the pool company
said they would rewire the heater if I got the tubing because he went
to Home Depot and said they have nothing there that would help. Duh!
Well, they have a 25 ft roll for $9.00 and they had the connecters and
the glue. But what is so bad about the underlying story is, they
should have told us 11 years ago to add calcium to the water. That
probably would have kept the heater alive for at least a few more
years and would have prevented the $3,600 "marble dusting" (white
cement) of the spa and the pool main drain.
Alan
On Wed, 6 May 2009 19:42:28 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>"Alan" <alanremovecalan@excite.com> wrote in message
>news:l0l305hgg36c2mb6g4kmr94ojja3nc0hta@4ax.com.. .
>>I just priced the parts and the plugs, the wires and the plenum gasket
>> were $152.42 from the dealer where I bought the car (another one
>> opened closer, and that is the one I took the car to because I could
>> get a ride back). That is before I buy the computer and the torque
>> wrench. I already spent that $100 which I believe that would apply to
>> this job (but maybe not), so I am at $252.42 plus the computer and the
>> wrench...another $75 so that is $325. If I go back to the dealer it
>> will cost me $510 plus tax or about $550. I'll save $225, learn
>> something about the car, walk away with a computer and a torque wrench
>> and the a chance to have something fall into the intake manifold and
>> blow the engine! Just kidding about the last one. It's not a lot of
>> money but it is the principle of it all and the fact that it might be
>> fun to do this. If worse come to worse, I can call the AAA and ask
>> them to tow the car to a gas station or a dealer.
>>
>> I am going to get all the parts from the dealer since the prices were
>> fairly good $11.22 for the plenum gasket, 50.88 for the wires and
>> $13.19 for the plugs plus tax. Or I can get the better NGK PFR5N-11
>> plugs and the NGK KRX009 Wires and the gasket for a little more from
>> Amazon.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>
>Way to go Alan. No better way to learn than to grenade a car of two.
>Joking, of course... Do yourself a favor and get yourself a free account on
>the Hyundai web site. You'll need IE since it does not recognize Firefox.
>Complete service information at your fingertips (well - with a little
>searching...) and all for free.
suprised me and that was that there were only 3 wires. They guy in
parts said that the other three are connected to three coils and the
three wires are connected to those three coils too.
When looking on Amazon.com for the parts there was a set of NGK wires
forthe XG300 that were $80 plus dollars while the some of the other
NGK sets were about $50 for 6 wires.
It seems as though the NGK wires are only three also that are
connected to the three coils that are connected to the other three
plugs They look like good wires:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...s/wiresets.asp
So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
Just as a little aside about supidity and incompetence, I had a new
pool heater installed the other day and no I never thought of doing it
myself. However, this new heater has the wires coming in higher than
the original one. The wires were long enough but the flexible pvc
tubing was too short. The installer tells me I have to call an
electrician for that. I said to you him, "You must be kidding. I
have to pay $300 for an electrcian to come here look at the job and
then get his assisstant to paste up an extension? I learned how to
paste things in first grade."
I was pissed off they didn't carry the tubing, connectors and pvc glue
with them. So for $2.11, I got 2 ft of tubing and two connectors and
for $4.50 I got the pvc glue. One of the owners of the pool company
said they would rewire the heater if I got the tubing because he went
to Home Depot and said they have nothing there that would help. Duh!
Well, they have a 25 ft roll for $9.00 and they had the connecters and
the glue. But what is so bad about the underlying story is, they
should have told us 11 years ago to add calcium to the water. That
probably would have kept the heater alive for at least a few more
years and would have prevented the $3,600 "marble dusting" (white
cement) of the spa and the pool main drain.
Alan
On Wed, 6 May 2009 19:42:28 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>"Alan" <alanremovecalan@excite.com> wrote in message
>news:l0l305hgg36c2mb6g4kmr94ojja3nc0hta@4ax.com.. .
>>I just priced the parts and the plugs, the wires and the plenum gasket
>> were $152.42 from the dealer where I bought the car (another one
>> opened closer, and that is the one I took the car to because I could
>> get a ride back). That is before I buy the computer and the torque
>> wrench. I already spent that $100 which I believe that would apply to
>> this job (but maybe not), so I am at $252.42 plus the computer and the
>> wrench...another $75 so that is $325. If I go back to the dealer it
>> will cost me $510 plus tax or about $550. I'll save $225, learn
>> something about the car, walk away with a computer and a torque wrench
>> and the a chance to have something fall into the intake manifold and
>> blow the engine! Just kidding about the last one. It's not a lot of
>> money but it is the principle of it all and the fact that it might be
>> fun to do this. If worse come to worse, I can call the AAA and ask
>> them to tow the car to a gas station or a dealer.
>>
>> I am going to get all the parts from the dealer since the prices were
>> fairly good $11.22 for the plenum gasket, 50.88 for the wires and
>> $13.19 for the plugs plus tax. Or I can get the better NGK PFR5N-11
>> plugs and the NGK KRX009 Wires and the gasket for a little more from
>> Amazon.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>
>Way to go Alan. No better way to learn than to grenade a car of two.
>Joking, of course... Do yourself a favor and get yourself a free account on
>the Hyundai web site. You'll need IE since it does not recognize Firefox.
>Complete service information at your fingertips (well - with a little
>searching...) and all for free.
05-07-2009, 08:05 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
"Ed Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net> wrote in message
news:rXqMl.29287$Ws1.1357@nlpi064.nbdc.sbc.com...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net> wrote in message
>>
>> Way to go Alan. No better way to learn than to grenade a car of two.
>> Joking, of course... Do yourself a favor and get yourself a free account
>> on the Hyundai web site.
>
> Mike forgot the link. www.hmaservice.com not the regular Hyundai site.
>
You da man Edwin. I hate it when I do that...
--
-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net
05-07-2009, 05:26 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
On May 7, 6:00 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
05-09-2009, 10:46 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
The coils range from $72 to $155 (for the Prenco) each.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder...9031&carId=001
or if you want the Prenco it's only $112 here:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1613826.html
If one goes bad, how would you know which one. Does the computer
tell you that...does it tell you where the misfire is?
On Thu, 7 May 2009 14:26:46 -0700 (PDT), hyundaitech
<hyundaimech@gmail.com> wrote:
>On May 7, 6:00 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
>> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
>> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
>> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
>
>He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
>them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
>they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder...9031&carId=001
or if you want the Prenco it's only $112 here:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1613826.html
If one goes bad, how would you know which one. Does the computer
tell you that...does it tell you where the misfire is?
On Thu, 7 May 2009 14:26:46 -0700 (PDT), hyundaitech
<hyundaimech@gmail.com> wrote:
>On May 7, 6:00 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
>> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
>> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
>> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
>
>He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
>them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
>they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
05-09-2009, 12:26 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
hyundaitech wrote:
> On May 7, 6:00 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
>> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
>> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
>> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
>
> He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
> them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
> they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
Does that apply to the Kia Amanti as well? I think they have the same
engine.
> On May 7, 6:00 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
>> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
>> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
>> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
>
> He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
> them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
> they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
Does that apply to the Kia Amanti as well? I think they have the same
engine.
05-15-2009, 01:58 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
On May 9, 10:46 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
> If one goes bad, how would you know which one. Does the computer
> tell you that...does it tell you where the misfire is?
Indeed. The trouble code indicates the misfiring cylinder (if the
computer can detect that). Even without that information, as long as
the engine is misfiring during diagnosis, it's fairly easy to
performance test. If one of the coils is arcing, that should be
visible. Otherwise, you can a coil as long as you have an old wire
and two plugs. You can pull the coil and attach wire, putting one
plug in the coil and one in the wire and laying both on the intake.
Then start the engine and observe the spark intensity/capacity by
gradually pulling one plug and then the other away from the intake
watching how far it'll jump. You may want to wear insulating gloves
when doing this.
> If one goes bad, how would you know which one. Does the computer
> tell you that...does it tell you where the misfire is?
Indeed. The trouble code indicates the misfiring cylinder (if the
computer can detect that). Even without that information, as long as
the engine is misfiring during diagnosis, it's fairly easy to
performance test. If one of the coils is arcing, that should be
visible. Otherwise, you can a coil as long as you have an old wire
and two plugs. You can pull the coil and attach wire, putting one
plug in the coil and one in the wire and laying both on the intake.
Then start the engine and observe the spark intensity/capacity by
gradually pulling one plug and then the other away from the intake
watching how far it'll jump. You may want to wear insulating gloves
when doing this.
05-15-2009, 02:00 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
On May 9, 12:26 pm, jkairoff <kair...@comcast.net> wrote:
> hyundaitech wrote:
> > On May 7, 6:00 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
> >> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
> >> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
> >> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
> >> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
>
> > He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
> > them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
> > they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
>
> Does that apply to the Kia Amanti as well? I think they have the same
> engine.
Probably. I've never examined an Amanti, but I see no reason why it
wouldn't use the same components for ignition.
> hyundaitech wrote:
> > On May 7, 6:00 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
> >> So, I also realize now that these three coils have to come off to get
> >> to the three plugs under them. Don't these coils go bad. They guy at
> >> Hyundai said they rarely go bad and they are very expensive to
> >> replace. God help that other dealer if he did something to the coils.
>
> > He's correct that they don't go bad very often, but I don't remember
> > them being all that expensive (for coils). They're easy to replace as
> > they're all on the front bank where you can get to them easily.
>
> Does that apply to the Kia Amanti as well? I think they have the same
> engine.
Probably. I've never examined an Amanti, but I see no reason why it
wouldn't use the same components for ignition.
05-15-2009, 12:12 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
hyundaitech,
You have definately gone above my pay grade. I'll change the plugs
and wires, as soon as I get a torque wrench delivered from Amazon. I
have everything else, and if there is still a problem, which there
probably won't be, I'll bring the car into another dealer. Since,
those coils are easier to get to than the back plugs, the charge
shouldn't be too much. Although, I am intrigued by the possibility of
diagnosing coils arcing. Unless, I just change one at a time.
Is ther a lubricant that has to go onto the threads of the plugs?
Alan
On Thu, 14 May 2009 22:58:49 -0700 (PDT), hyundaitech
<hyundaimech@gmail.com> wrote:
>On May 9, 10:46 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> If one goes bad, how would you know which one. Does the computer
>> tell you that...does it tell you where the misfire is?
>
>Indeed. The trouble code indicates the misfiring cylinder (if the
>computer can detect that). Even without that information, as long as
>the engine is misfiring during diagnosis, it's fairly easy to
>performance test. If one of the coils is arcing, that should be
>visible. Otherwise, you can a coil as long as you have an old wire
>and two plugs. You can pull the coil and attach wire, putting one
>plug in the coil and one in the wire and laying both on the intake.
>Then start the engine and observe the spark intensity/capacity by
>gradually pulling one plug and then the other away from the intake
>watching how far it'll jump. You may want to wear insulating gloves
>when doing this.
You have definately gone above my pay grade. I'll change the plugs
and wires, as soon as I get a torque wrench delivered from Amazon. I
have everything else, and if there is still a problem, which there
probably won't be, I'll bring the car into another dealer. Since,
those coils are easier to get to than the back plugs, the charge
shouldn't be too much. Although, I am intrigued by the possibility of
diagnosing coils arcing. Unless, I just change one at a time.
Is ther a lubricant that has to go onto the threads of the plugs?
Alan
On Thu, 14 May 2009 22:58:49 -0700 (PDT), hyundaitech
<hyundaimech@gmail.com> wrote:
>On May 9, 10:46 am, Alan Calan <alanca...@excite.com> wrote:
>> If one goes bad, how would you know which one. Does the computer
>> tell you that...does it tell you where the misfire is?
>
>Indeed. The trouble code indicates the misfiring cylinder (if the
>computer can detect that). Even without that information, as long as
>the engine is misfiring during diagnosis, it's fairly easy to
>performance test. If one of the coils is arcing, that should be
>visible. Otherwise, you can a coil as long as you have an old wire
>and two plugs. You can pull the coil and attach wire, putting one
>plug in the coil and one in the wire and laying both on the intake.
>Then start the engine and observe the spark intensity/capacity by
>gradually pulling one plug and then the other away from the intake
>watching how far it'll jump. You may want to wear insulating gloves
>when doing this.
05-16-2009, 05:59 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
On May 15, 12:12 pm, Alan <alanremoveca...@excite.com> wrote:
> Is ther a lubricant that has to go onto the threads of the plugs?
>
> Alan
That shouldn't be necessary. I can recall exactly one instance (in 17
years) that I've had a serious issue getting plugs in/out of a Hyundai
engine.
> Is ther a lubricant that has to go onto the threads of the plugs?
>
> Alan
That shouldn't be necessary. I can recall exactly one instance (in 17
years) that I've had a serious issue getting plugs in/out of a Hyundai
engine.
05-16-2009, 09:15 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
"Alan" <alanremovecalan@excite.com> wrote in message
news
1qq055lvs3r22rp01po097jim7ihdvhf5@4ax.com...> hyundaitech,
>
> You have definately gone above my pay grade. I'll change the plugs
> and wires, as soon as I get a torque wrench delivered from Amazon. I
> have everything else, and if there is still a problem, which there
> probably won't be, I'll bring the car into another dealer. Since,
> those coils are easier to get to than the back plugs, the charge
> shouldn't be too much. Although, I am intrigued by the possibility of
> diagnosing coils arcing. Unless, I just change one at a time.
>
All right - Alan went and bought himself a torque wrench. Don't stop there
Alan - you need to start drooling over a great big compressor, an impact
gun, and most of all - a set of torches. You really can't do any meaningful
kind of car repair without a hot wrench. Nothing says satisfaction like
facing a stubborn, won't budge an inch bolt, and lighting up the torches...
BTW - just remember to always store your torque wrench at its lowest
setting.
--
-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net
05-17-2009, 12:09 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 XG300 Spark Plugs and the dealer
Mike,
The torque wrench never came from Amazon, it ships tomorrow. I
actually need to do this today or tomorrow because I have a case in
Trenton, 3 hours away, so I was going to buy one at Auto Barn. The
guy there told me these things aren't that accurate anyway and snug
should be enough. Besides, it was only $14.95 and it's not a "hot
wrench." Why are you talking about a compressor? Seriously, I am
attempting to do this and you are so condescending because I haven't
done it 40 years. I don't think it takes rocket science to change six
spark plugs and probably one of the easier things to do on a car and
all I worry about is getting things put back the right way.
Many people attempt there own tax returns and screw things up for
themselves. They never know if they did anything wrong until it is
too late. I'll know if something is wrong as soon as I turn the key
and if something is wrong, the AAA will tow the car to a gas station
and they will finish it.
On Sat, 16 May 2009 09:15:23 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>"Alan" <alanremovecalan@excite.com> wrote in message
>news1qq055lvs3r22rp01po097jim7ihdvhf5@4ax.com.. .
>> hyundaitech,
>>
>> You have definately gone above my pay grade. I'll change the plugs
>> and wires, as soon as I get a torque wrench delivered from Amazon. I
>> have everything else, and if there is still a problem, which there
>> probably won't be, I'll bring the car into another dealer. Since,
>> those coils are easier to get to than the back plugs, the charge
>> shouldn't be too much. Although, I am intrigued by the possibility of
>> diagnosing coils arcing. Unless, I just change one at a time.
>>
>
>All right - Alan went and bought himself a torque wrench. Don't stop there
>Alan - you need to start drooling over a great big compressor, an impact
>gun, and most of all - a set of torches. You really can't do any meaningful
>kind of car repair without a hot wrench. Nothing says satisfaction like
>facing a stubborn, won't budge an inch bolt, and lighting up the torches...
>
>BTW - just remember to always store your torque wrench at its lowest
>setting.
The torque wrench never came from Amazon, it ships tomorrow. I
actually need to do this today or tomorrow because I have a case in
Trenton, 3 hours away, so I was going to buy one at Auto Barn. The
guy there told me these things aren't that accurate anyway and snug
should be enough. Besides, it was only $14.95 and it's not a "hot
wrench." Why are you talking about a compressor? Seriously, I am
attempting to do this and you are so condescending because I haven't
done it 40 years. I don't think it takes rocket science to change six
spark plugs and probably one of the easier things to do on a car and
all I worry about is getting things put back the right way.
Many people attempt there own tax returns and screw things up for
themselves. They never know if they did anything wrong until it is
too late. I'll know if something is wrong as soon as I turn the key
and if something is wrong, the AAA will tow the car to a gas station
and they will finish it.
On Sat, 16 May 2009 09:15:23 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>"Alan" <alanremovecalan@excite.com> wrote in message
>news
1qq055lvs3r22rp01po097jim7ihdvhf5@4ax.com.. .>> hyundaitech,
>>
>> You have definately gone above my pay grade. I'll change the plugs
>> and wires, as soon as I get a torque wrench delivered from Amazon. I
>> have everything else, and if there is still a problem, which there
>> probably won't be, I'll bring the car into another dealer. Since,
>> those coils are easier to get to than the back plugs, the charge
>> shouldn't be too much. Although, I am intrigued by the possibility of
>> diagnosing coils arcing. Unless, I just change one at a time.
>>
>
>All right - Alan went and bought himself a torque wrench. Don't stop there
>Alan - you need to start drooling over a great big compressor, an impact
>gun, and most of all - a set of torches. You really can't do any meaningful
>kind of car repair without a hot wrench. Nothing says satisfaction like
>facing a stubborn, won't budge an inch bolt, and lighting up the torches...
>
>BTW - just remember to always store your torque wrench at its lowest
>setting.