2006 Elantra owners
#151
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:QjkWf.7548$lb.675431@news1.epix.net...
>
> Throw-out bearing:
>
> Sitting at a stop light for two minutes with the transmission in gear
> holding the clutch down. This adds dramatically to the wear of the
> t-bearing as compared to shifting into neutral and letting the clutch
> out. Some claim the latter is a safety hazard as you couldn't get out
> of the way of someone about to rear-end you, but I think this is a
> specious argument at best. Few folks could get away from a person who
> they knew was going to rear-end them even if they had the car in gear.
I have to disagree with this. How will this affect throwout bearing life?
The biggest threat to throwout bearing life is people who leave their foot
on the clutch pedal while driving, taking up the slop and laying on the
throwout bearing - what we used to call riding the clutch. Think about it -
what is coupling the tranny to the engine while the clutch is disengaged?
>
> Clutch disk:
>
> The main culprit I've seen is folks that use the clutch to hold the car
> in position on a hill at a stop light or sign rather than using the
> brakes. I'm still amazed at how often I see people doing this. A minute
> or two of this probably wears the clutch as much as 5,000 miles of
> normal driving and generates lots of heat that can cause warping of the
> presssure plate or even flywheel.
This sure would eat up a clutch fast, but our experiences differ Matt. I
can't think of many times at all that I've seen this. What strikes me as
more common is folks who aren't comfortable with releasing the clutch on a
hill and won't come off the clutch quickly, at rpm's that are a bit high, in
attempt to make the take off smooth. (slipping the clutch). They end up
with a lot of unnecessary slippage.
>
> Making fast starts all of the time and using too much RPM at start-out.
> I'll be the first to admit that the Hyundai throttle and clutch makes
> smooth starts much more difficult than they should be. My Chevy truck
> idles at about 650 RPM. I can smoothly start out with that vehicle and
> never have the tach above 1,000 RPM prior to full clutch engagement,
> unless I'm on a steep hill. Obviously, the 4 cylinder in the Sonata
> takes a little more RPM, but even so I can usually start out without
> exceeding 1200 or so. I routinely ride with people who rev to 2,000+
> rpm at every start.
Notwithstanding a pure dump of the clutch, a fast start isn't going to do
any appreciable damage to a clutch. What will eat the clutch face is
attempting to ease it too much and ending up with too much time with a
partial clutch engagement. This will eat up a clutch even at low rpm's.
>
> Not matching engine and input shaft RPM when shifting. Once you get
> familiar with a car, it is fairly easy to time upshifts so that you
> release the clutch just as the engine RPM is falling to the figure
> required for the next higher gear. Again, the Hyundai electronic
> throttle makes this more difficult as the "dashpot" function programmed
> into it is way to aggressive and slows upshifts, but it can be done if
> you don't get in too big a hurry. Same thing with downshifting. A
> quick blip of the throttle before engaging the clutch on higher RPM
> downshifts helps a lot.
Matching rpm's has nothing really to do with clutch wear. The clutch is
already disengaged by the time the driver attempts the shift. Today's
synchro's (for the past 30 years or so...) have made a moot point of timing
the engine to the tranny. If you do go to the extent of timing the two, the
clutch becomes unnecessary - either up or down shifting. It becomes quite
possible to upshift and downshift without the clutch, and very smoothly at
that. But... this is a function of angle cut tranny teeth, and has nothing
to do with the clutch. Any miniscule affect on the clutch face that *may*
be in effect from blipping the engine probably wouldn't amount to a scant
few hundred miles in the life of a clutch plate.
OTR truck trannys, multi-speed rear ends, etc. share little in common with a
passenger car. The teeth are cut differently, and like a race car, the
tranny is really intended to be shifted without the clutch once under way.
--
-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net
#152
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Of course, clutch life varies for many reasons as does brake life.
> However, I believe that driver technique is the dominant factor in both
> cases. Here are some things I've seen over the years that contribute to
> clutch disk wear and throw-out bearing wear.
>
> Throw-out bearing:
>
> Sitting at a stop light for two minutes with the transmission in gear
> holding the clutch down. This adds dramatically to the wear of the
> t-bearing as compared to shifting into neutral and letting the clutch
> out. Some claim the latter is a safety hazard as you couldn't get out
> of the way of someone about to rear-end you, but I think this is a
> specious argument at best. Few folks could get away from a person who
> they knew was going to rear-end them even if they had the car in gear.
Agreed.
> Clutch disk:
>
> The main culprit I've seen is folks that use the clutch to hold the car
> in position on a hill at a stop light or sign rather than using the
> brakes. I'm still amazed at how often I see people doing this. A minute
> or two of this probably wears the clutch as much as 5,000 miles of
> normal driving and generates lots of heat that can cause warping of the
> presssure plate or even flywheel.
I don't see it that often, but often enough to realize that people
aren't being taught properly.
> Making fast starts all of the time and using too much RPM at start-out.
> I'll be the first to admit that the Hyundai throttle and clutch makes
> smooth starts much more difficult than they should be.
True. Even with the stupid valve removed from the slave cylinder, it's
not the best clutch I've used. For that matter, the clutch in my old
Excel was better.
> My Chevy truck
> idles at about 650 RPM. I can smoothly start out with that vehicle and
> never have the tach above 1,000 RPM prior to full clutch engagement,
> unless I'm on a steep hill. Obviously, the 4 cylinder in the Sonata
> takes a little more RPM, but even so I can usually start out without
> exceeding 1200 or so. I routinely ride with people who rev to 2,000+
> rpm at every start.
That'll tend to wear things a bit.
> Not matching engine and input shaft RPM when shifting. Once you get
> familiar with a car, it is fairly easy to time upshifts so that you
> release the clutch just as the engine RPM is falling to the figure
> required for the next higher gear.
That's just a normal part of driving a manual tranny and it more or less
just happens during typical driving. The only time it's even and issue
is when driving aggressively.
> Again, the Hyundai electronic
> throttle makes this more difficult as the "dashpot" function programmed
> into it is way to aggressive and slows upshifts, but it can be done if
> you don't get in too big a hurry.
Yes, the dashpot function really sucks. I used to disable the dashpots
on my older cars, but that's not an option anymore.
> Same thing with downshifting. A
> quick blip of the throttle before engaging the clutch on higher RPM
> downshifts helps a lot.
I used to be a big fan of heel-and-toe downshifting back when I tended
to drive my cars harder. These days, I only downshift when I need to and
never use the transmission to slow the car. As a wise man once said:
"Brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild."
> Of course, clutch life varies for many reasons as does brake life.
> However, I believe that driver technique is the dominant factor in both
> cases. Here are some things I've seen over the years that contribute to
> clutch disk wear and throw-out bearing wear.
>
> Throw-out bearing:
>
> Sitting at a stop light for two minutes with the transmission in gear
> holding the clutch down. This adds dramatically to the wear of the
> t-bearing as compared to shifting into neutral and letting the clutch
> out. Some claim the latter is a safety hazard as you couldn't get out
> of the way of someone about to rear-end you, but I think this is a
> specious argument at best. Few folks could get away from a person who
> they knew was going to rear-end them even if they had the car in gear.
Agreed.
> Clutch disk:
>
> The main culprit I've seen is folks that use the clutch to hold the car
> in position on a hill at a stop light or sign rather than using the
> brakes. I'm still amazed at how often I see people doing this. A minute
> or two of this probably wears the clutch as much as 5,000 miles of
> normal driving and generates lots of heat that can cause warping of the
> presssure plate or even flywheel.
I don't see it that often, but often enough to realize that people
aren't being taught properly.
> Making fast starts all of the time and using too much RPM at start-out.
> I'll be the first to admit that the Hyundai throttle and clutch makes
> smooth starts much more difficult than they should be.
True. Even with the stupid valve removed from the slave cylinder, it's
not the best clutch I've used. For that matter, the clutch in my old
Excel was better.
> My Chevy truck
> idles at about 650 RPM. I can smoothly start out with that vehicle and
> never have the tach above 1,000 RPM prior to full clutch engagement,
> unless I'm on a steep hill. Obviously, the 4 cylinder in the Sonata
> takes a little more RPM, but even so I can usually start out without
> exceeding 1200 or so. I routinely ride with people who rev to 2,000+
> rpm at every start.
That'll tend to wear things a bit.
> Not matching engine and input shaft RPM when shifting. Once you get
> familiar with a car, it is fairly easy to time upshifts so that you
> release the clutch just as the engine RPM is falling to the figure
> required for the next higher gear.
That's just a normal part of driving a manual tranny and it more or less
just happens during typical driving. The only time it's even and issue
is when driving aggressively.
> Again, the Hyundai electronic
> throttle makes this more difficult as the "dashpot" function programmed
> into it is way to aggressive and slows upshifts, but it can be done if
> you don't get in too big a hurry.
Yes, the dashpot function really sucks. I used to disable the dashpots
on my older cars, but that's not an option anymore.
> Same thing with downshifting. A
> quick blip of the throttle before engaging the clutch on higher RPM
> downshifts helps a lot.
I used to be a big fan of heel-and-toe downshifting back when I tended
to drive my cars harder. These days, I only downshift when I need to and
never use the transmission to slow the car. As a wise man once said:
"Brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild."
#153
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Of course, clutch life varies for many reasons as does brake life.
> However, I believe that driver technique is the dominant factor in both
> cases. Here are some things I've seen over the years that contribute to
> clutch disk wear and throw-out bearing wear.
>
> Throw-out bearing:
>
> Sitting at a stop light for two minutes with the transmission in gear
> holding the clutch down. This adds dramatically to the wear of the
> t-bearing as compared to shifting into neutral and letting the clutch
> out. Some claim the latter is a safety hazard as you couldn't get out
> of the way of someone about to rear-end you, but I think this is a
> specious argument at best. Few folks could get away from a person who
> they knew was going to rear-end them even if they had the car in gear.
Agreed.
> Clutch disk:
>
> The main culprit I've seen is folks that use the clutch to hold the car
> in position on a hill at a stop light or sign rather than using the
> brakes. I'm still amazed at how often I see people doing this. A minute
> or two of this probably wears the clutch as much as 5,000 miles of
> normal driving and generates lots of heat that can cause warping of the
> presssure plate or even flywheel.
I don't see it that often, but often enough to realize that people
aren't being taught properly.
> Making fast starts all of the time and using too much RPM at start-out.
> I'll be the first to admit that the Hyundai throttle and clutch makes
> smooth starts much more difficult than they should be.
True. Even with the stupid valve removed from the slave cylinder, it's
not the best clutch I've used. For that matter, the clutch in my old
Excel was better.
> My Chevy truck
> idles at about 650 RPM. I can smoothly start out with that vehicle and
> never have the tach above 1,000 RPM prior to full clutch engagement,
> unless I'm on a steep hill. Obviously, the 4 cylinder in the Sonata
> takes a little more RPM, but even so I can usually start out without
> exceeding 1200 or so. I routinely ride with people who rev to 2,000+
> rpm at every start.
That'll tend to wear things a bit.
> Not matching engine and input shaft RPM when shifting. Once you get
> familiar with a car, it is fairly easy to time upshifts so that you
> release the clutch just as the engine RPM is falling to the figure
> required for the next higher gear.
That's just a normal part of driving a manual tranny and it more or less
just happens during typical driving. The only time it's even and issue
is when driving aggressively.
> Again, the Hyundai electronic
> throttle makes this more difficult as the "dashpot" function programmed
> into it is way to aggressive and slows upshifts, but it can be done if
> you don't get in too big a hurry.
Yes, the dashpot function really sucks. I used to disable the dashpots
on my older cars, but that's not an option anymore.
> Same thing with downshifting. A
> quick blip of the throttle before engaging the clutch on higher RPM
> downshifts helps a lot.
I used to be a big fan of heel-and-toe downshifting back when I tended
to drive my cars harder. These days, I only downshift when I need to and
never use the transmission to slow the car. As a wise man once said:
"Brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild."
> Of course, clutch life varies for many reasons as does brake life.
> However, I believe that driver technique is the dominant factor in both
> cases. Here are some things I've seen over the years that contribute to
> clutch disk wear and throw-out bearing wear.
>
> Throw-out bearing:
>
> Sitting at a stop light for two minutes with the transmission in gear
> holding the clutch down. This adds dramatically to the wear of the
> t-bearing as compared to shifting into neutral and letting the clutch
> out. Some claim the latter is a safety hazard as you couldn't get out
> of the way of someone about to rear-end you, but I think this is a
> specious argument at best. Few folks could get away from a person who
> they knew was going to rear-end them even if they had the car in gear.
Agreed.
> Clutch disk:
>
> The main culprit I've seen is folks that use the clutch to hold the car
> in position on a hill at a stop light or sign rather than using the
> brakes. I'm still amazed at how often I see people doing this. A minute
> or two of this probably wears the clutch as much as 5,000 miles of
> normal driving and generates lots of heat that can cause warping of the
> presssure plate or even flywheel.
I don't see it that often, but often enough to realize that people
aren't being taught properly.
> Making fast starts all of the time and using too much RPM at start-out.
> I'll be the first to admit that the Hyundai throttle and clutch makes
> smooth starts much more difficult than they should be.
True. Even with the stupid valve removed from the slave cylinder, it's
not the best clutch I've used. For that matter, the clutch in my old
Excel was better.
> My Chevy truck
> idles at about 650 RPM. I can smoothly start out with that vehicle and
> never have the tach above 1,000 RPM prior to full clutch engagement,
> unless I'm on a steep hill. Obviously, the 4 cylinder in the Sonata
> takes a little more RPM, but even so I can usually start out without
> exceeding 1200 or so. I routinely ride with people who rev to 2,000+
> rpm at every start.
That'll tend to wear things a bit.
> Not matching engine and input shaft RPM when shifting. Once you get
> familiar with a car, it is fairly easy to time upshifts so that you
> release the clutch just as the engine RPM is falling to the figure
> required for the next higher gear.
That's just a normal part of driving a manual tranny and it more or less
just happens during typical driving. The only time it's even and issue
is when driving aggressively.
> Again, the Hyundai electronic
> throttle makes this more difficult as the "dashpot" function programmed
> into it is way to aggressive and slows upshifts, but it can be done if
> you don't get in too big a hurry.
Yes, the dashpot function really sucks. I used to disable the dashpots
on my older cars, but that's not an option anymore.
> Same thing with downshifting. A
> quick blip of the throttle before engaging the clutch on higher RPM
> downshifts helps a lot.
I used to be a big fan of heel-and-toe downshifting back when I tended
to drive my cars harder. These days, I only downshift when I need to and
never use the transmission to slow the car. As a wise man once said:
"Brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild."
#154
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Of course, clutch life varies for many reasons as does brake life.
> However, I believe that driver technique is the dominant factor in both
> cases. Here are some things I've seen over the years that contribute to
> clutch disk wear and throw-out bearing wear.
>
> Throw-out bearing:
>
> Sitting at a stop light for two minutes with the transmission in gear
> holding the clutch down. This adds dramatically to the wear of the
> t-bearing as compared to shifting into neutral and letting the clutch
> out. Some claim the latter is a safety hazard as you couldn't get out
> of the way of someone about to rear-end you, but I think this is a
> specious argument at best. Few folks could get away from a person who
> they knew was going to rear-end them even if they had the car in gear.
Agreed.
> Clutch disk:
>
> The main culprit I've seen is folks that use the clutch to hold the car
> in position on a hill at a stop light or sign rather than using the
> brakes. I'm still amazed at how often I see people doing this. A minute
> or two of this probably wears the clutch as much as 5,000 miles of
> normal driving and generates lots of heat that can cause warping of the
> presssure plate or even flywheel.
I don't see it that often, but often enough to realize that people
aren't being taught properly.
> Making fast starts all of the time and using too much RPM at start-out.
> I'll be the first to admit that the Hyundai throttle and clutch makes
> smooth starts much more difficult than they should be.
True. Even with the stupid valve removed from the slave cylinder, it's
not the best clutch I've used. For that matter, the clutch in my old
Excel was better.
> My Chevy truck
> idles at about 650 RPM. I can smoothly start out with that vehicle and
> never have the tach above 1,000 RPM prior to full clutch engagement,
> unless I'm on a steep hill. Obviously, the 4 cylinder in the Sonata
> takes a little more RPM, but even so I can usually start out without
> exceeding 1200 or so. I routinely ride with people who rev to 2,000+
> rpm at every start.
That'll tend to wear things a bit.
> Not matching engine and input shaft RPM when shifting. Once you get
> familiar with a car, it is fairly easy to time upshifts so that you
> release the clutch just as the engine RPM is falling to the figure
> required for the next higher gear.
That's just a normal part of driving a manual tranny and it more or less
just happens during typical driving. The only time it's even and issue
is when driving aggressively.
> Again, the Hyundai electronic
> throttle makes this more difficult as the "dashpot" function programmed
> into it is way to aggressive and slows upshifts, but it can be done if
> you don't get in too big a hurry.
Yes, the dashpot function really sucks. I used to disable the dashpots
on my older cars, but that's not an option anymore.
> Same thing with downshifting. A
> quick blip of the throttle before engaging the clutch on higher RPM
> downshifts helps a lot.
I used to be a big fan of heel-and-toe downshifting back when I tended
to drive my cars harder. These days, I only downshift when I need to and
never use the transmission to slow the car. As a wise man once said:
"Brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild."
> Of course, clutch life varies for many reasons as does brake life.
> However, I believe that driver technique is the dominant factor in both
> cases. Here are some things I've seen over the years that contribute to
> clutch disk wear and throw-out bearing wear.
>
> Throw-out bearing:
>
> Sitting at a stop light for two minutes with the transmission in gear
> holding the clutch down. This adds dramatically to the wear of the
> t-bearing as compared to shifting into neutral and letting the clutch
> out. Some claim the latter is a safety hazard as you couldn't get out
> of the way of someone about to rear-end you, but I think this is a
> specious argument at best. Few folks could get away from a person who
> they knew was going to rear-end them even if they had the car in gear.
Agreed.
> Clutch disk:
>
> The main culprit I've seen is folks that use the clutch to hold the car
> in position on a hill at a stop light or sign rather than using the
> brakes. I'm still amazed at how often I see people doing this. A minute
> or two of this probably wears the clutch as much as 5,000 miles of
> normal driving and generates lots of heat that can cause warping of the
> presssure plate or even flywheel.
I don't see it that often, but often enough to realize that people
aren't being taught properly.
> Making fast starts all of the time and using too much RPM at start-out.
> I'll be the first to admit that the Hyundai throttle and clutch makes
> smooth starts much more difficult than they should be.
True. Even with the stupid valve removed from the slave cylinder, it's
not the best clutch I've used. For that matter, the clutch in my old
Excel was better.
> My Chevy truck
> idles at about 650 RPM. I can smoothly start out with that vehicle and
> never have the tach above 1,000 RPM prior to full clutch engagement,
> unless I'm on a steep hill. Obviously, the 4 cylinder in the Sonata
> takes a little more RPM, but even so I can usually start out without
> exceeding 1200 or so. I routinely ride with people who rev to 2,000+
> rpm at every start.
That'll tend to wear things a bit.
> Not matching engine and input shaft RPM when shifting. Once you get
> familiar with a car, it is fairly easy to time upshifts so that you
> release the clutch just as the engine RPM is falling to the figure
> required for the next higher gear.
That's just a normal part of driving a manual tranny and it more or less
just happens during typical driving. The only time it's even and issue
is when driving aggressively.
> Again, the Hyundai electronic
> throttle makes this more difficult as the "dashpot" function programmed
> into it is way to aggressive and slows upshifts, but it can be done if
> you don't get in too big a hurry.
Yes, the dashpot function really sucks. I used to disable the dashpots
on my older cars, but that's not an option anymore.
> Same thing with downshifting. A
> quick blip of the throttle before engaging the clutch on higher RPM
> downshifts helps a lot.
I used to be a big fan of heel-and-toe downshifting back when I tended
to drive my cars harder. These days, I only downshift when I need to and
never use the transmission to slow the car. As a wise man once said:
"Brake pads are much cheaper than a transmission rebuild."
#155
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
Honda.
I'm happy with our new 2006 Elantra. No complaints after three months
of ownership.
one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
Honda.
I'm happy with our new 2006 Elantra. No complaints after three months
of ownership.
#156
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
Honda.
I'm happy with our new 2006 Elantra. No complaints after three months
of ownership.
one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
Honda.
I'm happy with our new 2006 Elantra. No complaints after three months
of ownership.
#157
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
Honda.
I'm happy with our new 2006 Elantra. No complaints after three months
of ownership.
one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
Honda.
I'm happy with our new 2006 Elantra. No complaints after three months
of ownership.
#158
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Don Allen wrote:
> Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> Honda.
What is the lug bug problem?
I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
make 100K miles.
Matt
> Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> Honda.
What is the lug bug problem?
I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
make 100K miles.
Matt
#159
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Don Allen wrote:
> Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> Honda.
What is the lug bug problem?
I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
make 100K miles.
Matt
> Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> Honda.
What is the lug bug problem?
I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
make 100K miles.
Matt
#160
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Don Allen wrote:
> Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> Honda.
What is the lug bug problem?
I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
make 100K miles.
Matt
> Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> Honda.
What is the lug bug problem?
I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
make 100K miles.
Matt
#161
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Don Allen wrote:
> > Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> > one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> > forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> > to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> > owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> > Honda.
>
> What is the lug bug problem?
>
> I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
> piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
> miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
> make 100K miles.
>
>
> Matt
I always thought Honda made good stuff. I test drove a Civic before
I bought my Elantra. I didn't like the Civic that much and the Elantra
has a better warranty. I've also had very good luck with Hyundai, so
I stuck with them.
My wife's Toyata Corolla put a rod though the side of the engine
block at 98,000. That engine was badly abused because
she didn't change the oil and stuff like she should have.
- Mooron
> Don Allen wrote:
> > Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> > one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> > forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> > to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> > owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> > Honda.
>
> What is the lug bug problem?
>
> I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
> piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
> miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
> make 100K miles.
>
>
> Matt
I always thought Honda made good stuff. I test drove a Civic before
I bought my Elantra. I didn't like the Civic that much and the Elantra
has a better warranty. I've also had very good luck with Hyundai, so
I stuck with them.
My wife's Toyata Corolla put a rod though the side of the engine
block at 98,000. That engine was badly abused because
she didn't change the oil and stuff like she should have.
- Mooron
#162
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Don Allen wrote:
> > Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> > one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> > forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> > to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> > owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> > Honda.
>
> What is the lug bug problem?
>
> I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
> piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
> miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
> make 100K miles.
>
>
> Matt
I always thought Honda made good stuff. I test drove a Civic before
I bought my Elantra. I didn't like the Civic that much and the Elantra
has a better warranty. I've also had very good luck with Hyundai, so
I stuck with them.
My wife's Toyata Corolla put a rod though the side of the engine
block at 98,000. That engine was badly abused because
she didn't change the oil and stuff like she should have.
- Mooron
> Don Allen wrote:
> > Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> > one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> > forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> > to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> > owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> > Honda.
>
> What is the lug bug problem?
>
> I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
> piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
> miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
> make 100K miles.
>
>
> Matt
I always thought Honda made good stuff. I test drove a Civic before
I bought my Elantra. I didn't like the Civic that much and the Elantra
has a better warranty. I've also had very good luck with Hyundai, so
I stuck with them.
My wife's Toyata Corolla put a rod though the side of the engine
block at 98,000. That engine was badly abused because
she didn't change the oil and stuff like she should have.
- Mooron
#163
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Don Allen wrote:
> > Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> > one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> > forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> > to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> > owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> > Honda.
>
> What is the lug bug problem?
>
> I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
> piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
> miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
> make 100K miles.
>
>
> Matt
I always thought Honda made good stuff. I test drove a Civic before
I bought my Elantra. I didn't like the Civic that much and the Elantra
has a better warranty. I've also had very good luck with Hyundai, so
I stuck with them.
My wife's Toyata Corolla put a rod though the side of the engine
block at 98,000. That engine was badly abused because
she didn't change the oil and stuff like she should have.
- Mooron
> Don Allen wrote:
> > Hondas may be great cars -- I've owned a two -- but, I would suggest if
> > one is considering a new generation Civic, go over to the 2006+ Civic
> > forum. Quite a number of owners are not happy with their new cars due
> > to the notorious "Lug Bug" problem. It seems like a fair number of
> > owners are experiencing this problem, as yet not fully explained by
> > Honda.
>
> What is the lug bug problem?
>
> I've only owned one Honda, an 84 Accord purchased new, and it was a
> piece of crap. The top end of the engine self-destructed with 72,000
> miles on it. It is the only car I've owned in 30+ years that didn't
> make 100K miles.
>
>
> Matt
I always thought Honda made good stuff. I test drove a Civic before
I bought my Elantra. I didn't like the Civic that much and the Elantra
has a better warranty. I've also had very good luck with Hyundai, so
I stuck with them.
My wife's Toyata Corolla put a rod though the side of the engine
block at 98,000. That engine was badly abused because
she didn't change the oil and stuff like she should have.
- Mooron
#164
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Apparently, the new Civic has a problem either with an engine/chassis
resonance or an engine "lugging" problem. The users on Edmunds.com
forums have been complaining quite a bit about this for some time. It
appears to affect primarily the Civic with the AT transmission. Some
theorize that in Honda's search for the holy grail in fuel economy,
when the transmission is in 5th gear, the engine is turning too low of
an RPM (especially in town), and causes the engine to lug, i.e. too
high of a gear for engine RPMs. For some time now, the posters have
been calling it the "Lug Bug" problem.
Others think it's due to an inherent engine/chassis resonance problem.
It's not in their minds as it seems Honda has acknowleged the problem
exists, but has yet to propose a fix.
One thing is for certain, if you think there are dissatisfied Hyundai
owners, you will be surprised how many new 2006 Civic owners are
complaining in a very vocal way. Frankly, it surprised me, and I drove
a Civic for a number of years, and had excellent experience with it.
resonance or an engine "lugging" problem. The users on Edmunds.com
forums have been complaining quite a bit about this for some time. It
appears to affect primarily the Civic with the AT transmission. Some
theorize that in Honda's search for the holy grail in fuel economy,
when the transmission is in 5th gear, the engine is turning too low of
an RPM (especially in town), and causes the engine to lug, i.e. too
high of a gear for engine RPMs. For some time now, the posters have
been calling it the "Lug Bug" problem.
Others think it's due to an inherent engine/chassis resonance problem.
It's not in their minds as it seems Honda has acknowleged the problem
exists, but has yet to propose a fix.
One thing is for certain, if you think there are dissatisfied Hyundai
owners, you will be surprised how many new 2006 Civic owners are
complaining in a very vocal way. Frankly, it surprised me, and I drove
a Civic for a number of years, and had excellent experience with it.
#165
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2006 Elantra owners
Apparently, the new Civic has a problem either with an engine/chassis
resonance or an engine "lugging" problem. The users on Edmunds.com
forums have been complaining quite a bit about this for some time. It
appears to affect primarily the Civic with the AT transmission. Some
theorize that in Honda's search for the holy grail in fuel economy,
when the transmission is in 5th gear, the engine is turning too low of
an RPM (especially in town), and causes the engine to lug, i.e. too
high of a gear for engine RPMs. For some time now, the posters have
been calling it the "Lug Bug" problem.
Others think it's due to an inherent engine/chassis resonance problem.
It's not in their minds as it seems Honda has acknowleged the problem
exists, but has yet to propose a fix.
One thing is for certain, if you think there are dissatisfied Hyundai
owners, you will be surprised how many new 2006 Civic owners are
complaining in a very vocal way. Frankly, it surprised me, and I drove
a Civic for a number of years, and had excellent experience with it.
resonance or an engine "lugging" problem. The users on Edmunds.com
forums have been complaining quite a bit about this for some time. It
appears to affect primarily the Civic with the AT transmission. Some
theorize that in Honda's search for the holy grail in fuel economy,
when the transmission is in 5th gear, the engine is turning too low of
an RPM (especially in town), and causes the engine to lug, i.e. too
high of a gear for engine RPMs. For some time now, the posters have
been calling it the "Lug Bug" problem.
Others think it's due to an inherent engine/chassis resonance problem.
It's not in their minds as it seems Honda has acknowleged the problem
exists, but has yet to propose a fix.
One thing is for certain, if you think there are dissatisfied Hyundai
owners, you will be surprised how many new 2006 Civic owners are
complaining in a very vocal way. Frankly, it surprised me, and I drove
a Civic for a number of years, and had excellent experience with it.