The 3.3 liter engine takes 6.02 American quarts. Quick change shops are
so accustomed to adding about 5 quarts, it's a good idea to
double-check their work if you do not visit a Hyundai dealership for
changes. For that matter, you may want to double check the
dealership's work. I asked my dealership which oil they used for my
first change and it was 10w30 instead of the preferred 5w20. I just
performed my 2nd oil change on this car myself and thought I would
share my findings...

While I love most of the changes on the 3.3 06 model, it is a pain to
change the oil filter. The filter material is stored in a canister on
top of the engine under the engine cover (which must be removed). A
10mm socket is needed to remove the engine cover and you will need a
socket extension for two of the fasteners. My skill at changing the oil
filter will probably improve, but it's a messy job and requires
handling, disassembling, and reassembling oily parts. There are two
oily gaskets to remove and change as well. Perhaps this is a better
design for the engine or the environment, but from a human standpoint
give me the old-school, self-contained, disposable filter.

By the way, I am using Hyundai filters purchased from a dealership and
Mobil 1 5W20 synthetic oil. Although you are only changing the
paper/cardboard material, the OEM filters are about $12. Anyone know
why Hyundai switched to the top-loading oil filter?

GeoUSA, moderator http://www.HyundaiExchange.com

 

GeoUSA wrote:

> The 3.3 liter engine takes 6.02 American quarts. Quick change shops are
> so accustomed to adding about 5 quarts, it's a good idea to
> double-check their work if you do not visit a Hyundai dealership for
> changes. For that matter, you may want to double check the
> dealership's work. I asked my dealership which oil they used for my
> first change and it was 10w30 instead of the preferred 5w20. I just
> performed my 2nd oil change on this car myself and thought I would
> share my findings...


Getting that 0.02 quart part is going to be really tricky! :-)

I just got an 06, but I got the 4-banger which appears to still use a
plain old spin-on filter. Looks like it is accessible from below
through a round hole in the splash guard under the engine. I haven't
crawled under it yet to see if my hand will actually fit through that
hole with a filter in my hand. Probably a filter will fit through the
hole and my hand will fit through the hole, but I wouldn't be surprised
if my hand with a filter in it will not fit through the hole! :-)


> While I love most of the changes on the 3.3 06 model, it is a pain to
> change the oil filter. The filter material is stored in a canister on
> top of the engine under the engine cover (which must be removed). A
> 10mm socket is needed to remove the engine cover and you will need a
> socket extension for two of the fasteners. My skill at changing the oil
> filter will probably improve, but it's a messy job and requires
> handling, disassembling, and reassembling oily parts. There are two
> oily gaskets to remove and change as well. Perhaps this is a better
> design for the engine or the environment, but from a human standpoint
> give me the old-school, self-contained, disposable filter.

At first blush, it sounded like this top 'o the engine filter might be
easier to reach and change, but it doesn't sound that way given the
details you've provided here.


> By the way, I am using Hyundai filters purchased from a dealership and
> Mobil 1 5W20 synthetic oil. Although you are only changing the
> paper/cardboard material, the OEM filters are about $12. Anyone know
> why Hyundai switched to the top-loading oil filter?

I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
some of the other low-end filters.


Matt

 

GeoUSA wrote:

> The 3.3 liter engine takes 6.02 American quarts. Quick change shops are
> so accustomed to adding about 5 quarts, it's a good idea to
> double-check their work if you do not visit a Hyundai dealership for
> changes. For that matter, you may want to double check the
> dealership's work. I asked my dealership which oil they used for my
> first change and it was 10w30 instead of the preferred 5w20. I just
> performed my 2nd oil change on this car myself and thought I would
> share my findings...


Getting that 0.02 quart part is going to be really tricky! :-)

I just got an 06, but I got the 4-banger which appears to still use a
plain old spin-on filter. Looks like it is accessible from below
through a round hole in the splash guard under the engine. I haven't
crawled under it yet to see if my hand will actually fit through that
hole with a filter in my hand. Probably a filter will fit through the
hole and my hand will fit through the hole, but I wouldn't be surprised
if my hand with a filter in it will not fit through the hole! :-)


> While I love most of the changes on the 3.3 06 model, it is a pain to
> change the oil filter. The filter material is stored in a canister on
> top of the engine under the engine cover (which must be removed). A
> 10mm socket is needed to remove the engine cover and you will need a
> socket extension for two of the fasteners. My skill at changing the oil
> filter will probably improve, but it's a messy job and requires
> handling, disassembling, and reassembling oily parts. There are two
> oily gaskets to remove and change as well. Perhaps this is a better
> design for the engine or the environment, but from a human standpoint
> give me the old-school, self-contained, disposable filter.

At first blush, it sounded like this top 'o the engine filter might be
easier to reach and change, but it doesn't sound that way given the
details you've provided here.


> By the way, I am using Hyundai filters purchased from a dealership and
> Mobil 1 5W20 synthetic oil. Although you are only changing the
> paper/cardboard material, the OEM filters are about $12. Anyone know
> why Hyundai switched to the top-loading oil filter?

I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
some of the other low-end filters.


Matt

 

"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
>
>
> I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
> Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
> dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
> for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
> not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
> some of the other low-end filters.
>

I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a lot
of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no problems.
Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters. I'd
caution about the hype that's out there.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
>
>
> I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
> Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
> dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
> for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
> not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
> some of the other low-end filters.
>

I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a lot
of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no problems.
Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters. I'd
caution about the hype that's out there.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

Mike Marlow wrote:

> "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
> news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
>
>>
>>I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
>>Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
>>dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
>>for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
>>not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
>>some of the other low-end filters.
>>
>
>
> I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a lot
> of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no problems.
> Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters. I'd
> caution about the hype that's out there.

It isn't hype. Cut a few open and look for yourself. The difference
between a Fram and a quality filter is very obvious, even to the
relatively uninitiated. I used Fram for years as well, and they were a
great filter many moons ago. They have go downhill a lot in the last 20
years. I had an 89 Acclaim that always had lifter noise for the first
few seconds after a cold start. I had used Fram filters since it was
new and never made the connection. I was talking to a colleague at work
one day and he asked what brand of filter I used. I told him and he
said that was the problem. The Fram anti-drainback valve is crap and
lets the filter drain if the engine sits idle for more than a couple of
hours. Sure enough, I switched to AC filters and no more start-up
clatter. The difference was night and day.


Matt

 

Mike Marlow wrote:

> "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
> news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
>
>>
>>I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
>>Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
>>dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
>>for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
>>not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
>>some of the other low-end filters.
>>
>
>
> I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a lot
> of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no problems.
> Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters. I'd
> caution about the hype that's out there.

It isn't hype. Cut a few open and look for yourself. The difference
between a Fram and a quality filter is very obvious, even to the
relatively uninitiated. I used Fram for years as well, and they were a
great filter many moons ago. They have go downhill a lot in the last 20
years. I had an 89 Acclaim that always had lifter noise for the first
few seconds after a cold start. I had used Fram filters since it was
new and never made the connection. I was talking to a colleague at work
one day and he asked what brand of filter I used. I told him and he
said that was the problem. The Fram anti-drainback valve is crap and
lets the filter drain if the engine sits idle for more than a couple of
hours. Sure enough, I switched to AC filters and no more start-up
clatter. The difference was night and day.


Matt

 

"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:1Bktf.4645$lb.397159@news1.epix.net...
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>
> > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
> > news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
> >
> >>
> >>I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
> >>Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
> >>dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
> >>for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
> >>not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
> >>some of the other low-end filters.
> >>
> >
> >
> > I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a
lot
> > of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no
problems.
> > Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters.
I'd
> > caution about the hype that's out there.
>
> It isn't hype. Cut a few open and look for yourself. The difference
> between a Fram and a quality filter is very obvious, even to the
> relatively uninitiated. I used Fram for years as well, and they were a
> great filter many moons ago. They have go downhill a lot in the last 20
> years. I had an 89 Acclaim that always had lifter noise for the first
> few seconds after a cold start. I had used Fram filters since it was
> new and never made the connection. I was talking to a colleague at work
> one day and he asked what brand of filter I used. I told him and he
> said that was the problem. The Fram anti-drainback valve is crap and
> lets the filter drain if the engine sits idle for more than a couple of
> hours. Sure enough, I switched to AC filters and no more start-up
> clatter. The difference was night and day.
>

Ok - I'll give it a whirl. I'm warning you - I don't like my old habits
messed with though. I particularly don't like having to learn something new
at my age. Takes too damned much effort.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:1Bktf.4645$lb.397159@news1.epix.net...
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>
> > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
> > news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
> >
> >>
> >>I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
> >>Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
> >>dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
> >>for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
> >>not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
> >>some of the other low-end filters.
> >>
> >
> >
> > I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a
lot
> > of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no
problems.
> > Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters.
I'd
> > caution about the hype that's out there.
>
> It isn't hype. Cut a few open and look for yourself. The difference
> between a Fram and a quality filter is very obvious, even to the
> relatively uninitiated. I used Fram for years as well, and they were a
> great filter many moons ago. They have go downhill a lot in the last 20
> years. I had an 89 Acclaim that always had lifter noise for the first
> few seconds after a cold start. I had used Fram filters since it was
> new and never made the connection. I was talking to a colleague at work
> one day and he asked what brand of filter I used. I told him and he
> said that was the problem. The Fram anti-drainback valve is crap and
> lets the filter drain if the engine sits idle for more than a couple of
> hours. Sure enough, I switched to AC filters and no more start-up
> clatter. The difference was night and day.
>

Ok - I'll give it a whirl. I'm warning you - I don't like my old habits
messed with though. I particularly don't like having to learn something new
at my age. Takes too damned much effort.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

Mike Marlow wrote:
> "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
> news:1Bktf.4645$lb.397159@news1.epix.net...
>
>>Mike Marlow wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
>>>news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
>>>>Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
>>>>dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
>>>>for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
>>>>not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
>>>>some of the other low-end filters.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a
>
> lot
>
>>>of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no
>
> problems.
>
>>>Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters.
>
> I'd
>
>>>caution about the hype that's out there.
>>
>>It isn't hype. Cut a few open and look for yourself. The difference
>>between a Fram and a quality filter is very obvious, even to the
>>relatively uninitiated. I used Fram for years as well, and they were a
>>great filter many moons ago. They have go downhill a lot in the last 20
>>years. I had an 89 Acclaim that always had lifter noise for the first
>>few seconds after a cold start. I had used Fram filters since it was
>>new and never made the connection. I was talking to a colleague at work
>>one day and he asked what brand of filter I used. I told him and he
>>said that was the problem. The Fram anti-drainback valve is crap and
>>lets the filter drain if the engine sits idle for more than a couple of
>>hours. Sure enough, I switched to AC filters and no more start-up
>>clatter. The difference was night and day.
>>
>
>
> Ok - I'll give it a whirl. I'm warning you - I don't like my old habits
> messed with though. I particularly don't like having to learn something new
> at my age. Takes too damned much effort.
>

I hear ya. I was a Fram man for years, until I saw a few cut open and
compared to other filters. I now use AC filters when I can get them as
they are moderate quality at a decent price. I'll probably use NAPA
filters on my new Sonata as I can get them easily and they are in the
upper end of the quality range, but not quite as good as Mobil 1
filters, which appear to be among the very best.

Let me know your assessment.

Matt

 

Mike Marlow wrote:
> "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
> news:1Bktf.4645$lb.397159@news1.epix.net...
>
>>Mike Marlow wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
>>>news:R1htf.4638$lb.396338@news1.epix.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
>>>>Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
>>>>dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
>>>>for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
>>>>not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
>>>>some of the other low-end filters.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I realize there is a lot of stuff on the net about Fram, but there are a
>
> lot
>
>>>of us out here who have used Fram for literally decades with no
>
> problems.
>
>>>Many of us have driven cars for over 200,000 miles using Fram filters.
>
> I'd
>
>>>caution about the hype that's out there.
>>
>>It isn't hype. Cut a few open and look for yourself. The difference
>>between a Fram and a quality filter is very obvious, even to the
>>relatively uninitiated. I used Fram for years as well, and they were a
>>great filter many moons ago. They have go downhill a lot in the last 20
>>years. I had an 89 Acclaim that always had lifter noise for the first
>>few seconds after a cold start. I had used Fram filters since it was
>>new and never made the connection. I was talking to a colleague at work
>>one day and he asked what brand of filter I used. I told him and he
>>said that was the problem. The Fram anti-drainback valve is crap and
>>lets the filter drain if the engine sits idle for more than a couple of
>>hours. Sure enough, I switched to AC filters and no more start-up
>>clatter. The difference was night and day.
>>
>
>
> Ok - I'll give it a whirl. I'm warning you - I don't like my old habits
> messed with though. I particularly don't like having to learn something new
> at my age. Takes too damned much effort.
>

I hear ya. I was a Fram man for years, until I saw a few cut open and
compared to other filters. I now use AC filters when I can get them as
they are moderate quality at a decent price. I'll probably use NAPA
filters on my new Sonata as I can get them easily and they are in the
upper end of the quality range, but not quite as good as Mobil 1
filters, which appear to be among the very best.

Let me know your assessment.

Matt

 

GeoUSA wrote:

> While I love most of the changes on the 3.3 06 model, it is a pain to
> change the oil filter. The filter material is stored in a canister on
> top of the engine <snip>

Sounds like something from the 1950's. Is Hyundai going Retro on us?
<G>



--

 

GeoUSA wrote:

> While I love most of the changes on the 3.3 06 model, it is a pain to
> change the oil filter. The filter material is stored in a canister on
> top of the engine <snip>

Sounds like something from the 1950's. Is Hyundai going Retro on us?
<G>



--

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> GeoUSA wrote:
>
>> The 3.3 liter engine takes 6.02 American quarts. Quick change shops are
>> so accustomed to adding about 5 quarts, it's a good idea to
>> double-check their work if you do not visit a Hyundai dealership for
>> changes. For that matter, you may want to double check the
>> dealership's work. I asked my dealership which oil they used for my
>> first change and it was 10w30 instead of the preferred 5w20. I just
>> performed my 2nd oil change on this car myself and thought I would
>> share my findings...
>
>
>
> Getting that 0.02 quart part is going to be really tricky! :-)
>
> I just got an 06, but I got the 4-banger which appears to still use a
> plain old spin-on filter. Looks like it is accessible from below
> through a round hole in the splash guard under the engine. I haven't
> crawled under it yet to see if my hand will actually fit through that
> hole with a filter in my hand. Probably a filter will fit through the
> hole and my hand will fit through the hole, but I wouldn't be surprised
> if my hand with a filter in it will not fit through the hole! :-)
>
>
>> While I love most of the changes on the 3.3 06 model, it is a pain to
>> change the oil filter. The filter material is stored in a canister on
>> top of the engine under the engine cover (which must be removed). A
>> 10mm socket is needed to remove the engine cover and you will need a
>> socket extension for two of the fasteners. My skill at changing the oil
>> filter will probably improve, but it's a messy job and requires
>> handling, disassembling, and reassembling oily parts. There are two
>> oily gaskets to remove and change as well. Perhaps this is a better
>> design for the engine or the environment, but from a human standpoint
>> give me the old-school, self-contained, disposable filter.
>
>
> At first blush, it sounded like this top 'o the engine filter might be
> easier to reach and change, but it doesn't sound that way given the
> details you've provided here.
>
>
>> By the way, I am using Hyundai filters purchased from a dealership and
>> Mobil 1 5W20 synthetic oil. Although you are only changing the
>> paper/cardboard material, the OEM filters are about $12. Anyone know
>> why Hyundai switched to the top-loading oil filter?
>
>
> I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
> Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
> dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
> for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
> not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
> some of the other low-end filters.

Napa, Wix and Purolator filters are all highly regarded. Purolator's
Pure One filters are generally available for <$6.00 at auto parts
stores. I'm using them and synthetic oil in my '04 Elantra. I used the
lower end Purolator and the identical Pep Boys house brand filters in my
'94 Excel for 165K miles and the engine was still running great when I
sold it.

I agree that Fram products are junk and AKAIK, their filters are the
ones that prompted the oil filter TSB that Hyundai put out a few months
ago. I won't use them.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> GeoUSA wrote:
>
>> The 3.3 liter engine takes 6.02 American quarts. Quick change shops are
>> so accustomed to adding about 5 quarts, it's a good idea to
>> double-check their work if you do not visit a Hyundai dealership for
>> changes. For that matter, you may want to double check the
>> dealership's work. I asked my dealership which oil they used for my
>> first change and it was 10w30 instead of the preferred 5w20. I just
>> performed my 2nd oil change on this car myself and thought I would
>> share my findings...
>
>
>
> Getting that 0.02 quart part is going to be really tricky! :-)
>
> I just got an 06, but I got the 4-banger which appears to still use a
> plain old spin-on filter. Looks like it is accessible from below
> through a round hole in the splash guard under the engine. I haven't
> crawled under it yet to see if my hand will actually fit through that
> hole with a filter in my hand. Probably a filter will fit through the
> hole and my hand will fit through the hole, but I wouldn't be surprised
> if my hand with a filter in it will not fit through the hole! :-)
>
>
>> While I love most of the changes on the 3.3 06 model, it is a pain to
>> change the oil filter. The filter material is stored in a canister on
>> top of the engine under the engine cover (which must be removed). A
>> 10mm socket is needed to remove the engine cover and you will need a
>> socket extension for two of the fasteners. My skill at changing the oil
>> filter will probably improve, but it's a messy job and requires
>> handling, disassembling, and reassembling oily parts. There are two
>> oily gaskets to remove and change as well. Perhaps this is a better
>> design for the engine or the environment, but from a human standpoint
>> give me the old-school, self-contained, disposable filter.
>
>
> At first blush, it sounded like this top 'o the engine filter might be
> easier to reach and change, but it doesn't sound that way given the
> details you've provided here.
>
>
>> By the way, I am using Hyundai filters purchased from a dealership and
>> Mobil 1 5W20 synthetic oil. Although you are only changing the
>> paper/cardboard material, the OEM filters are about $12. Anyone know
>> why Hyundai switched to the top-loading oil filter?
>
>
> I have no idea why they would have used this design. I plan also to use
> Mobil 1 and was told that filters for my engine were about $10 at the
> dealer. I believe I can get NAPA gold filters for around $8 and silver
> for around $5. I'm sure the gold are better than the OEM filters, but
> not sure about the silvers. The important thing is to avoid Fram and
> some of the other low-end filters.

Napa, Wix and Purolator filters are all highly regarded. Purolator's
Pure One filters are generally available for <$6.00 at auto parts
stores. I'm using them and synthetic oil in my '04 Elantra. I used the
lower end Purolator and the identical Pep Boys house brand filters in my
'94 Excel for 165K miles and the engine was still running great when I
sold it.

I agree that Fram products are junk and AKAIK, their filters are the
ones that prompted the oil filter TSB that Hyundai put out a few months
ago. I won't use them.