On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 11:34:44 -0500, DaveInLakeVilla@webtv.net (Dave in Lake
Villa) wrote:
>things. Also, consider adding some 3/8" thick insulation roll from J.C.
>Whitney.com above the wheel well plastic liners to muffle noise ; it
>worked out well on other cars ive done. You have to remove the wheel
>then the Liner , but its a pretty easy job. Then glue some insulation
>roll down after cutting it to size. Also put some in the cargo area
>under the carpetting on the inside of the vehicle .

Hmmmm... if the waxy undercoating was applied under the wheel well, I wonder
of the sound mat would even stick? If not, maybe just some of that foamy tar
undercoating would help deaden the noise a lot.

I know the sound deadening mat would help some, but the metal foil coating
is most effective when oriented toward the cabin, right? In other words, it
would work best if you could apply it to the wheel well from inside the car.
Oy, I bet that would be a major job...
--
Bob

 

Bob, dont know if it would work or not but if you wanted to do it from
inside the car why couldnt you drill some small holes and use that spray
foam insallation, you know the kind that swells up when it drys. It would
seep into the hard to get spots before it drys then all you would have to do
is cut off the excess where you drilled the holes and touch it up with black
paint and a small brush or a black magic marker.

Tunez



"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:mgal921gb1ha78u9mn23njr4lmt33725hb@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 11:34:44 -0500, DaveInLakeVilla@webtv.net (Dave in
> Lake
> Villa) wrote:
>>things. Also, consider adding some 3/8" thick insulation roll from J.C.
>>Whitney.com above the wheel well plastic liners to muffle noise ; it
>>worked out well on other cars ive done. You have to remove the wheel
>>then the Liner , but its a pretty easy job. Then glue some insulation
>>roll down after cutting it to size. Also put some in the cargo area
>>under the carpetting on the inside of the vehicle .
>
> Hmmmm... if the waxy undercoating was applied under the wheel well, I
> wonder
> of the sound mat would even stick? If not, maybe just some of that foamy
> tar
> undercoating would help deaden the noise a lot.
>
> I know the sound deadening mat would help some, but the metal foil coating
> is most effective when oriented toward the cabin, right? In other words,
> it
> would work best if you could apply it to the wheel well from inside the
> car.
> Oy, I bet that would be a major job...
> --
> Bob

 

Bob, dont know if it would work or not but if you wanted to do it from
inside the car why couldnt you drill some small holes and use that spray
foam insallation, you know the kind that swells up when it drys. It would
seep into the hard to get spots before it drys then all you would have to do
is cut off the excess where you drilled the holes and touch it up with black
paint and a small brush or a black magic marker.

Tunez



"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:mgal921gb1ha78u9mn23njr4lmt33725hb@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 11:34:44 -0500, DaveInLakeVilla@webtv.net (Dave in
> Lake
> Villa) wrote:
>>things. Also, consider adding some 3/8" thick insulation roll from J.C.
>>Whitney.com above the wheel well plastic liners to muffle noise ; it
>>worked out well on other cars ive done. You have to remove the wheel
>>then the Liner , but its a pretty easy job. Then glue some insulation
>>roll down after cutting it to size. Also put some in the cargo area
>>under the carpetting on the inside of the vehicle .
>
> Hmmmm... if the waxy undercoating was applied under the wheel well, I
> wonder
> of the sound mat would even stick? If not, maybe just some of that foamy
> tar
> undercoating would help deaden the noise a lot.
>
> I know the sound deadening mat would help some, but the metal foil coating
> is most effective when oriented toward the cabin, right? In other words,
> it
> would work best if you could apply it to the wheel well from inside the
> car.
> Oy, I bet that would be a major job...
> --
> Bob

 

Bob, dont know if it would work or not but if you wanted to do it from
inside the car why couldnt you drill some small holes and use that spray
foam insallation, you know the kind that swells up when it drys. It would
seep into the hard to get spots before it drys then all you would have to do
is cut off the excess where you drilled the holes and touch it up with black
paint and a small brush or a black magic marker.

Tunez



"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:mgal921gb1ha78u9mn23njr4lmt33725hb@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 11:34:44 -0500, DaveInLakeVilla@webtv.net (Dave in
> Lake
> Villa) wrote:
>>things. Also, consider adding some 3/8" thick insulation roll from J.C.
>>Whitney.com above the wheel well plastic liners to muffle noise ; it
>>worked out well on other cars ive done. You have to remove the wheel
>>then the Liner , but its a pretty easy job. Then glue some insulation
>>roll down after cutting it to size. Also put some in the cargo area
>>under the carpetting on the inside of the vehicle .
>
> Hmmmm... if the waxy undercoating was applied under the wheel well, I
> wonder
> of the sound mat would even stick? If not, maybe just some of that foamy
> tar
> undercoating would help deaden the noise a lot.
>
> I know the sound deadening mat would help some, but the metal foil coating
> is most effective when oriented toward the cabin, right? In other words,
> it
> would work best if you could apply it to the wheel well from inside the
> car.
> Oy, I bet that would be a major job...
> --
> Bob

 

'Is the wheel well plastic?
Matt'

REPLY: The Liners are black plastic inside the wheel well, and, from
looking underneath the car...it appears the wheel well itself might be
fiberglass as the floor looks to be.

 

'Is the wheel well plastic?
Matt'

REPLY: The Liners are black plastic inside the wheel well, and, from
looking underneath the car...it appears the wheel well itself might be
fiberglass as the floor looks to be.

 

'Is the wheel well plastic?
Matt'

REPLY: The Liners are black plastic inside the wheel well, and, from
looking underneath the car...it appears the wheel well itself might be
fiberglass as the floor looks to be.

 

On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 08:09:24 -0700, "Tunez" <tunez1@***.net> wrote:

>Bob, dont know if it would work or not but if you wanted to do it from
>inside the car why couldnt you drill some small holes and use that spray
>foam insallation, you know the kind that swells up when it drys. It would
>seep into the hard to get spots before it drys then all you would have to do
>is cut off the excess where you drilled the holes and touch it up with black
>paint and a small brush or a black magic marker.

Yea, I thought of it right away. I've used that expanding polyurethane foam
for lots of things. Tip: Don't get it on your hands unless you like the way
it looks!

I think my car is quiet enough until I get on some extremely rough roads.
All I need to do is kill that "k-thunk" noise in the rear. I would rather
remove the noise than to isolate it, but I will if I have to.

Note to Dave: Sorry for the e-mail. I pushed the wrong button. :\

Another note to Dave: Would you consider doing a "how to" with pictures?
--
Bob

 

On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 08:09:24 -0700, "Tunez" <tunez1@***.net> wrote:

>Bob, dont know if it would work or not but if you wanted to do it from
>inside the car why couldnt you drill some small holes and use that spray
>foam insallation, you know the kind that swells up when it drys. It would
>seep into the hard to get spots before it drys then all you would have to do
>is cut off the excess where you drilled the holes and touch it up with black
>paint and a small brush or a black magic marker.

Yea, I thought of it right away. I've used that expanding polyurethane foam
for lots of things. Tip: Don't get it on your hands unless you like the way
it looks!

I think my car is quiet enough until I get on some extremely rough roads.
All I need to do is kill that "k-thunk" noise in the rear. I would rather
remove the noise than to isolate it, but I will if I have to.

Note to Dave: Sorry for the e-mail. I pushed the wrong button. :\

Another note to Dave: Would you consider doing a "how to" with pictures?
--
Bob

 

On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 08:09:24 -0700, "Tunez" <tunez1@***.net> wrote:

>Bob, dont know if it would work or not but if you wanted to do it from
>inside the car why couldnt you drill some small holes and use that spray
>foam insallation, you know the kind that swells up when it drys. It would
>seep into the hard to get spots before it drys then all you would have to do
>is cut off the excess where you drilled the holes and touch it up with black
>paint and a small brush or a black magic marker.

Yea, I thought of it right away. I've used that expanding polyurethane foam
for lots of things. Tip: Don't get it on your hands unless you like the way
it looks!

I think my car is quiet enough until I get on some extremely rough roads.
All I need to do is kill that "k-thunk" noise in the rear. I would rather
remove the noise than to isolate it, but I will if I have to.

Note to Dave: Sorry for the e-mail. I pushed the wrong button. :\

Another note to Dave: Would you consider doing a "how to" with pictures?
--
Bob

 

'Another note to Dave: Would you consider doing a "how to" with
pictures?
--
Bob'

REPLY: Bob, If it were 'rocket science' id be pleased to, but, on a
difficulty scale of 1 to 10....adding 3/8" insulation matting above the
plastic wheel well liners once you have them removed, is about a 1.8 .
Its even easier for adding it underneath the cargo capetting / cab floor
carpetting. About all you need is a screwdriver, pliers, small socket
wrenches , silicone glue , sizzors, and the insulation roll . Jack up
the car and remove one wheel at a time , then look to see how the
plastic wheel well liner is held on , then remove it taking your time.
Clean up the top of the liner before you cut to size the insulation mat
, glue it on, then re-install the liner. (dont forget to put the wheel
back on too

Dave

 

'Another note to Dave: Would you consider doing a "how to" with
pictures?
--
Bob'

REPLY: Bob, If it were 'rocket science' id be pleased to, but, on a
difficulty scale of 1 to 10....adding 3/8" insulation matting above the
plastic wheel well liners once you have them removed, is about a 1.8 .
Its even easier for adding it underneath the cargo capetting / cab floor
carpetting. About all you need is a screwdriver, pliers, small socket
wrenches , silicone glue , sizzors, and the insulation roll . Jack up
the car and remove one wheel at a time , then look to see how the
plastic wheel well liner is held on , then remove it taking your time.
Clean up the top of the liner before you cut to size the insulation mat
, glue it on, then re-install the liner. (dont forget to put the wheel
back on too

Dave

 

'Another note to Dave: Would you consider doing a "how to" with
pictures?
--
Bob'

REPLY: Bob, If it were 'rocket science' id be pleased to, but, on a
difficulty scale of 1 to 10....adding 3/8" insulation matting above the
plastic wheel well liners once you have them removed, is about a 1.8 .
Its even easier for adding it underneath the cargo capetting / cab floor
carpetting. About all you need is a screwdriver, pliers, small socket
wrenches , silicone glue , sizzors, and the insulation roll . Jack up
the car and remove one wheel at a time , then look to see how the
plastic wheel well liner is held on , then remove it taking your time.
Clean up the top of the liner before you cut to size the insulation mat
, glue it on, then re-install the liner. (dont forget to put the wheel
back on too

Dave

 

On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 14:45:19 -0500, DaveInLakeVilla@webtv.net (Dave in Lake
Villa) wrote:

>Clean up the top of the liner before you cut to size the insulation mat
>, glue it on, then re-install the liner. (dont forget to put the wheel
>back on too

Hey Dave.

Ya, I know it's not rocket surgery.

But,,, sometimes finding and deciding which screws to remove can take hours.

You're saying to stick the Dynamat to the plastic fender liner? Have you
found that to be truly effective?

The manufacturers could easily and cheaply done the same thing. Makes you
wonder!
--
Bob

 

On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 14:45:19 -0500, DaveInLakeVilla@webtv.net (Dave in Lake
Villa) wrote:

>Clean up the top of the liner before you cut to size the insulation mat
>, glue it on, then re-install the liner. (dont forget to put the wheel
>back on too

Hey Dave.

Ya, I know it's not rocket surgery.

But,,, sometimes finding and deciding which screws to remove can take hours.

You're saying to stick the Dynamat to the plastic fender liner? Have you
found that to be truly effective?

The manufacturers could easily and cheaply done the same thing. Makes you
wonder!
--
Bob