Thanks Brian - I was using trying to using a light meter against some
post inside the fuse box. I had been on the hmaservice sight many times
and couldn't get anywhere on it. I was using firefox. I logged in use
IE and it came up fine.

It looks like I might be able to get somewhere. I will keep you all
posted. I am sure I will have more questions as I proceed. Thanks again.

 

jimmyh wrote:
> sounds like the computer is shot
>
>

Not likely. The computers fail, but fail rarely compared to the
sensors. Likely a sensor failure, the trick is finding out which one.


Matt

 

jimmyh wrote:
> sounds like the computer is shot
>
>

Not likely. The computers fail, but fail rarely compared to the
sensors. Likely a sensor failure, the trick is finding out which one.


Matt

 

jimmyh wrote:
> sounds like the computer is shot
>
>

Not likely. The computers fail, but fail rarely compared to the
sensors. Likely a sensor failure, the trick is finding out which one.


Matt

 

You'll want to use the diagnostic connector inside the fuse box. You can
ground to a terminal there or anywhere on the car. I always found the
door check pin convenient (as long as you remember to remove the clip
before closing the door). It won't work with a test light. I have seen
it work with a diode. I've used a sweep meter when the scan tool was
broken.

The crank/cam sensors are located inside the distributor. You may want to
check the timing belt first. Since both sensors run off the cam, nothing
happens if the cam doesn't turn.

 

You'll want to use the diagnostic connector inside the fuse box. You can
ground to a terminal there or anywhere on the car. I always found the
door check pin convenient (as long as you remember to remove the clip
before closing the door). It won't work with a test light. I have seen
it work with a diode. I've used a sweep meter when the scan tool was
broken.

The crank/cam sensors are located inside the distributor. You may want to
check the timing belt first. Since both sensors run off the cam, nothing
happens if the cam doesn't turn.

 

You'll want to use the diagnostic connector inside the fuse box. You can
ground to a terminal there or anywhere on the car. I always found the
door check pin convenient (as long as you remember to remove the clip
before closing the door). It won't work with a test light. I have seen
it work with a diode. I've used a sweep meter when the scan tool was
broken.

The crank/cam sensors are located inside the distributor. You may want to
check the timing belt first. Since both sensors run off the cam, nothing
happens if the cam doesn't turn.

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:

> It may be the crank position sensor. You can get the codes read at
> Autozone, VIP and other parts/service stores at no charge, or you can
> buy a code reader there. I managed to get codes from my '94 Excel
> using a voltmeter. IIRC, the access panel is under the dash on the
> left side, but I don't remember the entire procedure.

I know on the '94 Scoupe you could use a volt meter.

--

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:

> It may be the crank position sensor. You can get the codes read at
> Autozone, VIP and other parts/service stores at no charge, or you can
> buy a code reader there. I managed to get codes from my '94 Excel
> using a voltmeter. IIRC, the access panel is under the dash on the
> left side, but I don't remember the entire procedure.

I know on the '94 Scoupe you could use a volt meter.

--

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:

> It may be the crank position sensor. You can get the codes read at
> Autozone, VIP and other parts/service stores at no charge, or you can
> buy a code reader there. I managed to get codes from my '94 Excel
> using a voltmeter. IIRC, the access panel is under the dash on the
> left side, but I don't remember the entire procedure.

I know on the '94 Scoupe you could use a volt meter.

--

 

Thanks for the advice - I have digital meter - I think that a sweep
meter may be able to follow. I am going to try with the digital meter
tonight and at least see if I can get something pumping out of it.
There are 3 pins located at the top inside the fuse box - should any of
these three work? I am going to get these codes one of these days!

 

Thanks for the advice - I have digital meter - I think that a sweep
meter may be able to follow. I am going to try with the digital meter
tonight and at least see if I can get something pumping out of it.
There are 3 pins located at the top inside the fuse box - should any of
these three work? I am going to get these codes one of these days!

 

Thanks for the advice - I have digital meter - I think that a sweep
meter may be able to follow. I am going to try with the digital meter
tonight and at least see if I can get something pumping out of it.
There are 3 pins located at the top inside the fuse box - should any of
these three work? I am going to get these codes one of these days!

 

I believe the connector is in the bottom of the fuse box. There will be
several pins there, but I believe there's something like 10 to 14 spaces
for pins total.

If you go to www.hmaservice.com and go through the fuel section of the
shop manual, it'll show you how to do this.

I'd be very surprised if you can get anything out of the digital meter.
The codes are displayed as two digits with the long sweeps indicating the
tens digit and the short sweeps indicating the units digit.

 

I believe the connector is in the bottom of the fuse box. There will be
several pins there, but I believe there's something like 10 to 14 spaces
for pins total.

If you go to www.hmaservice.com and go through the fuel section of the
shop manual, it'll show you how to do this.

I'd be very surprised if you can get anything out of the digital meter.
The codes are displayed as two digits with the long sweeps indicating the
tens digit and the short sweeps indicating the units digit.