NotBloodyLikely

My 1996 Accent GL has a problem with the passenger window. It rolls
down ok (manual handle roll), but it tilts slightly toward the front
end of the vehicle when it is rolled back up. I can easily use my
other hand to tilt it back level and finish rolling it up, but I'd
rather have it work properly.

By partially removing the door panel and peering down into the door
cavity, I traced the problem to one of the two adhesive points at the
bottom of the window. They're spaced about 4 inches apart, and while
the front-side one remains intact, the rearward one appears to have
become unglued.

My question is, what kind of adhesive can I apply to that rear bracket
that will hold in all conditions? Where I live, we have temperature
ranges from -40 celcius to +35 celcius, and I've noticed the problem is
worse in hot weather.

Thoughts?

hyundaitech

Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
may wish to try some epoxy.

hyundaitech

Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
may wish to try some epoxy.

hyundaitech

Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
may wish to try some epoxy.

nothermark

On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
>sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
>and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
>may wish to try some epoxy.

I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
breaks.

nothermark

On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
>sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
>and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
>may wish to try some epoxy.

I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
breaks.

nothermark

On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
>sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
>and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
>may wish to try some epoxy.

I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
breaks.

NotBloodyLikely

Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the
applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap,
but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with
the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to
feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all
over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.

Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed
that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to
the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly
malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the
bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that
failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey,
and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That
leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit
might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be
needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop
still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.

Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and
it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to
www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at
the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same
conditions.

Thanks!

nothermark wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>
> >Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
> >sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
> >and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
> >may wish to try some epoxy.
>
> I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
> differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
> something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
> breaks.

NotBloodyLikely

Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the
applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap,
but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with
the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to
feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all
over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.

Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed
that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to
the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly
malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the
bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that
failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey,
and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That
leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit
might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be
needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop
still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.

Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and
it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to
www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at
the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same
conditions.

Thanks!

nothermark wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>
> >Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
> >sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
> >and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
> >may wish to try some epoxy.
>
> I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
> differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
> something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
> breaks.

NotBloodyLikely

Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the
applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap,
but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with
the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to
feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all
over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.

Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed
that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to
the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly
malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the
bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that
failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey,
and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That
leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit
might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be
needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop
still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.

Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and
it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to
www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at
the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same
conditions.

Thanks!

nothermark wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>
> >Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
> >sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
> >and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
> >may wish to try some epoxy.
>
> I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
> differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
> something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
> breaks.

nothermark

Definitely clean out the old glue. If you don't then the old glue
will fail again. If it's a 2 part it sounds like a urethane.

On 3 Jul 2006 20:36:32 -0700, "NotBloodyLikely" <tmagee@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the
>applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap,
>but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with
>the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to
>feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all
>over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.
>
>Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed
>that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to
>the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly
>malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the
>bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that
>failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey,
>and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That
>leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit
>might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be
>needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop
>still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.
>
>Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and
>it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to
>www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at
>the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same
>conditions.
>
>Thanks!
>
>nothermark wrote:
>> On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
>> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>>
>> >Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
>> >sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
>> >and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
>> >may wish to try some epoxy.
>>
>> I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
>> differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
>> something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
>> breaks.

nothermark

Definitely clean out the old glue. If you don't then the old glue
will fail again. If it's a 2 part it sounds like a urethane.

On 3 Jul 2006 20:36:32 -0700, "NotBloodyLikely" <tmagee@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the
>applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap,
>but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with
>the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to
>feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all
>over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.
>
>Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed
>that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to
>the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly
>malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the
>bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that
>failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey,
>and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That
>leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit
>might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be
>needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop
>still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.
>
>Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and
>it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to
>www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at
>the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same
>conditions.
>
>Thanks!
>
>nothermark wrote:
>> On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
>> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>>
>> >Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
>> >sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
>> >and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
>> >may wish to try some epoxy.
>>
>> I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
>> differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
>> something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
>> breaks.

nothermark

Definitely clean out the old glue. If you don't then the old glue
will fail again. If it's a 2 part it sounds like a urethane.

On 3 Jul 2006 20:36:32 -0700, "NotBloodyLikely" <tmagee@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the
>applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap,
>but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with
>the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to
>feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all
>over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.
>
>Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed
>that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to
>the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly
>malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the
>bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that
>failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey,
>and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That
>leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit
>might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be
>needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop
>still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.
>
>Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and
>it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to
>www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at
>the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same
>conditions.
>
>Thanks!
>
>nothermark wrote:
>> On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"
>> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>>
>> >Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
>> >sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
>> >and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
>> >may wish to try some epoxy.
>>
>> I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
>> differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
>> something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
>> breaks.