96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
03-27-2006, 03:21 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Car 1996 Elauntra 1.8. Car was wrecked and has no airbags. I origionally
thought it had a 1.5 but it is a 1.8.The check engine light is on when the
key is os. I have a signal coming from the crank sensor and from the cam
sensor. I have power at the coil. I have replaced the cam sensor, crank
sensor and coil pack. No spark. I have no idea if the cart has other problems.
I hooked up a scan tool and no codes were set. The only time I had any kind
of spark was when I did what you said and hooked my scope up to the two wires
on the crank sensor. When I did that it tried to start, but the spark was all
wrong. No scope no fire. All fuses have been checked with a meter.If the car
was in an accident, wouldn't the cpu shut off or some other device shut
something off? The guy said he drove the car to Michigan from California
after he had the car repaired from the accident. He said it just wouldn't
start one day. I have tested everything I can think of. Something is keeping
the coil from getting the fire signal or the signal to break the power to
cause the coil to fire. What else could it be? I really am stumped.
Thank you again for your assistance. I hope that Hyundai appreciates what you
are doing for them. I sure do.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Let's back up a little. I assumed you had an accent because you said you
>had a 1.5 DOHC. What kind of car are we working on?
>
>The air bag system is in no way related to starting/not starting.
>
>Does the check engine lamp illuminate when you turn the key to the "on"
>position? If not, then we need to figure out why the computer isn't
>turning on. If you don't have power to the wipers, then you might look at
>that circuit first. Could be a common cause. I'd check all the fuses,
>even the large slow blow fuses, and especially the one in the small fuse
>box on the positive battery cable (if you have one).
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
thought it had a 1.5 but it is a 1.8.The check engine light is on when the
key is os. I have a signal coming from the crank sensor and from the cam
sensor. I have power at the coil. I have replaced the cam sensor, crank
sensor and coil pack. No spark. I have no idea if the cart has other problems.
I hooked up a scan tool and no codes were set. The only time I had any kind
of spark was when I did what you said and hooked my scope up to the two wires
on the crank sensor. When I did that it tried to start, but the spark was all
wrong. No scope no fire. All fuses have been checked with a meter.If the car
was in an accident, wouldn't the cpu shut off or some other device shut
something off? The guy said he drove the car to Michigan from California
after he had the car repaired from the accident. He said it just wouldn't
start one day. I have tested everything I can think of. Something is keeping
the coil from getting the fire signal or the signal to break the power to
cause the coil to fire. What else could it be? I really am stumped.
Thank you again for your assistance. I hope that Hyundai appreciates what you
are doing for them. I sure do.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Let's back up a little. I assumed you had an accent because you said you
>had a 1.5 DOHC. What kind of car are we working on?
>
>The air bag system is in no way related to starting/not starting.
>
>Does the check engine lamp illuminate when you turn the key to the "on"
>position? If not, then we need to figure out why the computer isn't
>turning on. If you don't have power to the wipers, then you might look at
>that circuit first. Could be a common cause. I'd check all the fuses,
>even the large slow blow fuses, and especially the one in the small fuse
>box on the positive battery cable (if you have one).
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-27-2006, 05:14 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
looking at the car.
same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
looking at the car.
03-27-2006, 05:14 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
looking at the car.
same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
looking at the car.
03-27-2006, 05:14 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
looking at the car.
same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
looking at the car.
03-27-2006, 10:28 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
>capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
>
>I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
>your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
>if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
>attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
>
>I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
>engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
>sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
>loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
>Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
>both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
>alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
>sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
>this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
>
>It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
>sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
>disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
>there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
>sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
>Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
>have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
> At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
>capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
>
>I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
>your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
>if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
>attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
>
>I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
>engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
>sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
>loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
>Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
>both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
>alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
>sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
>this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
>
>It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
>sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
>disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
>there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
>sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
>Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
>have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
> At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-27-2006, 10:28 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
>capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
>
>I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
>your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
>if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
>attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
>
>I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
>engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
>sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
>loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
>Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
>both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
>alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
>sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
>this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
>
>It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
>sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
>disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
>there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
>sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
>Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
>have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
> At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
>capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
>
>I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
>your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
>if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
>attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
>
>I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
>engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
>sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
>loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
>Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
>both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
>alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
>sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
>this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
>
>It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
>sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
>disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
>there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
>sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
>Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
>have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
> At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-27-2006, 10:28 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
>capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
>
>I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
>your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
>if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
>attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
>
>I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
>engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
>sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
>loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
>Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
>both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
>alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
>sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
>this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
>
>It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
>sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
>disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
>there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
>sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
>Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
>have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
> At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
hyundaitech wrote:
>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
>capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
>
>I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
>your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
>if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
>attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
>
>I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
>engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
>sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
>loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
>Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
>both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
>alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
>sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
>this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
>
>It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
>sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
>disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
>there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
>sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
>Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
>have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
> At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-27-2006, 11:08 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Sorry forgot to tell you. The Crankshaft sensor was dammaged. I looked at the
end of it and the end looked like the flywheel hit it. That is why I replaced
it. But it looked like it got hit during the accident it was not scrapped up
real bad. It was just dented and looked like the teeth of the flywheel. But
the dent was pretty minor. It must have worked since he drove it here from
California. Can I replace the SRS module without replacing the airbags?
pulsarbird wrote:
>Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
>I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
>teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
>when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
>I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
>start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
>It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
>again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
>that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
>I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
>I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
>It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
>signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
>code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
>case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
>table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
>
>Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
>friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
>
>>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
end of it and the end looked like the flywheel hit it. That is why I replaced
it. But it looked like it got hit during the accident it was not scrapped up
real bad. It was just dented and looked like the teeth of the flywheel. But
the dent was pretty minor. It must have worked since he drove it here from
California. Can I replace the SRS module without replacing the airbags?
pulsarbird wrote:
>Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
>I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
>teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
>when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
>I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
>start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
>It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
>again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
>that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
>I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
>I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
>It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
>signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
>code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
>case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
>table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
>
>Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
>friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
>
>>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-27-2006, 11:08 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Sorry forgot to tell you. The Crankshaft sensor was dammaged. I looked at the
end of it and the end looked like the flywheel hit it. That is why I replaced
it. But it looked like it got hit during the accident it was not scrapped up
real bad. It was just dented and looked like the teeth of the flywheel. But
the dent was pretty minor. It must have worked since he drove it here from
California. Can I replace the SRS module without replacing the airbags?
pulsarbird wrote:
>Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
>I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
>teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
>when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
>I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
>start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
>It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
>again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
>that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
>I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
>I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
>It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
>signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
>code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
>case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
>table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
>
>Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
>friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
>
>>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
end of it and the end looked like the flywheel hit it. That is why I replaced
it. But it looked like it got hit during the accident it was not scrapped up
real bad. It was just dented and looked like the teeth of the flywheel. But
the dent was pretty minor. It must have worked since he drove it here from
California. Can I replace the SRS module without replacing the airbags?
pulsarbird wrote:
>Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
>I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
>teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
>when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
>I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
>start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
>It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
>again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
>that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
>I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
>I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
>It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
>signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
>code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
>case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
>table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
>
>Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
>friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
>
>>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-27-2006, 11:08 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
Sorry forgot to tell you. The Crankshaft sensor was dammaged. I looked at the
end of it and the end looked like the flywheel hit it. That is why I replaced
it. But it looked like it got hit during the accident it was not scrapped up
real bad. It was just dented and looked like the teeth of the flywheel. But
the dent was pretty minor. It must have worked since he drove it here from
California. Can I replace the SRS module without replacing the airbags?
pulsarbird wrote:
>Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
>I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
>teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
>when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
>I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
>start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
>It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
>again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
>that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
>I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
>I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
>It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
>signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
>code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
>case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
>table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
>
>Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
>friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
>
>>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
end of it and the end looked like the flywheel hit it. That is why I replaced
it. But it looked like it got hit during the accident it was not scrapped up
real bad. It was just dented and looked like the teeth of the flywheel. But
the dent was pretty minor. It must have worked since he drove it here from
California. Can I replace the SRS module without replacing the airbags?
pulsarbird wrote:
>Thanks again for your assistance. The crank sensor is located by the flywheel.
>I do not see any ring or anything to trigger the crank sensor besides the
>teeth of the flywheel. I was unplugging things to check for a bad connection
>when I noticed something. When I unplugged the SRS module between the seats,
>I tried to start it. nothing. ZI plugged it back in and when I did I tried to
>start it and I got one spark. I had the #1 plug wire hooked to a spare plug.
>It sparked one time and that was it. I unplugged it again but it didn't do it
>again. Are you sure there is nothing that that box could affect? I believe
>that this is a power problem somewhere. I hate to go testing around the ECM.
>I have an analog meter for that, but I still don't like it.
>I know the injectors are getting a signal. I tested that with a noid light.
>It seems like everything is working, but there is something stopping the
>signal getting to the coil. On the Hyundai site it states something about a
>code being set indicating a wreck and to replace the CPU. Could that be the
>case? Is there a test to find out? I hate to keep replacing parts. Is there a
>table that tells what the readings are supposed to be for the CPU and the SRS?
>
>Once we get this running, I will have to name it after you! lol. Thank you my
>friend. This Forum is the greatest. Hyundai should be very proud to have you.
>
>>Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
>>same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
>[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>>mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
>>looking at the car.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-28-2006, 05:49 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
going on.
Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
not the Accent or Elantra.
So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
going on.
Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
not the Accent or Elantra.
So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
03-28-2006, 05:49 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
going on.
Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
not the Accent or Elantra.
So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
going on.
Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
not the Accent or Elantra.
So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
03-28-2006, 05:49 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
going on.
Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
not the Accent or Elantra.
So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
going on.
Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
not the Accent or Elantra.
So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
03-28-2006, 07:13 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
I think you have got it pinned down. Thank you so much. Next question is
where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
on the wheel would be appreciated.
Thank you again for helping me out.
hyundaitech wrote:
>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
>the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
>can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
>going on.
>
>Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
>unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
>allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
>thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
>get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
>with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
>
>If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
>not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
>a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
>bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
>(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
>not the Accent or Elantra.
>
>So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
>damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
>then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
>teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
>above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
>sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
on the wheel would be appreciated.
Thank you again for helping me out.
hyundaitech wrote:
>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
>the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
>can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
>going on.
>
>Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
>unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
>allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
>thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
>get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
>with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
>
>If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
>not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
>a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
>bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
>(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
>not the Accent or Elantra.
>
>So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
>damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
>then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
>teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
>above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
>sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
03-28-2006, 07:13 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 hyundai 1.5 DOHC NO SPARK
I think you have got it pinned down. Thank you so much. Next question is
where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
on the wheel would be appreciated.
Thank you again for helping me out.
hyundaitech wrote:
>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
>the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
>can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
>going on.
>
>Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
>unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
>allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
>thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
>get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
>with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
>
>If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
>not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
>a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
>bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
>(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
>not the Accent or Elantra.
>
>So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
>damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
>then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
>teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
>above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
>sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1
where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
on the wheel would be appreciated.
Thank you again for helping me out.
hyundaitech wrote:
>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
>the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
>can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
>going on.
>
>Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
>unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
>allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
>thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
>get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
>with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
>
>If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
>not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
>a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
>bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
>(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
>not the Accent or Elantra.
>
>So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
>damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
>then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
>teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
>above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
>sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1