I think you have got it pinned down. Thank you so much. Next question is
where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
on the wheel would be appreciated.
Thank you again for helping me out.

hyundaitech wrote:
>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>replace the ECM. Some things don't translate well from the Korean. When
>the manuals for your car were printed, any computer was called an ECM. It
>can be quite confusing if you're not very comfortable with exactly what's
>going on.
>
>Again, it has nothing to do with your starting problem. The fact that
>unplugging and replugging the SRS module and then attempting to start
>allowed one spark is likely nothing more than coincidence. If the ECM
>thinks it knows what's happening and then gets confused, then you would
>get exactly this one spark scenario. It probably has everything to do
>with the exact position of the engine when you cranked and nothing more.
>
>If I recall correctly, your crank sensor bolts into the cylinder block,
>not the transmission bellhousing, right? If so, there should be teeth on
>a wheel attached to the crankshaft inside that hole. If it bolts into the
>bellhousing, it reads the flywheel (manual) or stamped flexplate
>(automatic), but I'm pretty sure that system was only used on the Scoupe,
>not the Accent or Elantra.
>
>So, here's the deal. The fact that the inside end of the crank sensor was
>damaged is your big clue. If there is no damage to the outside portion,
>then you definitely have a problem with the tone wheel (the wheel with the
>teeth that's attached to the crankshaft-- see the three possibilities
>above). Even if there is damage on the outside portion of the crank
>sensor and it was damaged by collision, it could have dented the tone
>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1

 

I tried to move the wheel with a screwdriver. It does turn without the motor
moving. I think you found my problem. I shouldn't be able to move it with a
screwdriver right? It should be solid to the flywheel or something. Now I
just have to find out how to tighten it back up or replace it.

pulsarbird wrote:
>I think you have got it pinned down. Thank you so much. Next question is
>where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
>to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
>item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
>this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
>on the wheel would be appreciated.
>Thank you again for helping me out.
>
>>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

I tried to move the wheel with a screwdriver. It does turn without the motor
moving. I think you found my problem. I shouldn't be able to move it with a
screwdriver right? It should be solid to the flywheel or something. Now I
just have to find out how to tighten it back up or replace it.

pulsarbird wrote:
>I think you have got it pinned down. Thank you so much. Next question is
>where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
>to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
>item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
>this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
>on the wheel would be appreciated.
>Thank you again for helping me out.
>
>>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

I tried to move the wheel with a screwdriver. It does turn without the motor
moving. I think you found my problem. I shouldn't be able to move it with a
screwdriver right? It should be solid to the flywheel or something. Now I
just have to find out how to tighten it back up or replace it.

pulsarbird wrote:
>I think you have got it pinned down. Thank you so much. Next question is
>where can I get the information on how to change that tone wheel? Do I have
>to drop the pan to get to it? My book does not go into any detail on that
>item. I did look so I wouldn't be taking up your time needlessly. I hope that
>this information will help a lot of people with this issue. Any information
>on the wheel would be appreciated.
>Thank you again for helping me out.
>
>>You don't want to replace the SRS module. That's the module they're
>>referring to when the talk about setting a crash code and needing to
>[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>>wheel and this could be causing the problem. Wherever this tone wheel is,
>>you need to check for it being bent, damaged, broken, or loose.

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

That's the deal. It shouldn't move without the engine turning. You'll
need to drop the oil pan to look at it. I've never actually worked on one
with this issue, but I've seen it. I don't recall whether you can get the
wheel off the crankshaft or whether the crank counterweights are in the
way and you need to replace the whole crankshaft.

 

That's the deal. It shouldn't move without the engine turning. You'll
need to drop the oil pan to look at it. I've never actually worked on one
with this issue, but I've seen it. I don't recall whether you can get the
wheel off the crankshaft or whether the crank counterweights are in the
way and you need to replace the whole crankshaft.

 

That's the deal. It shouldn't move without the engine turning. You'll
need to drop the oil pan to look at it. I've never actually worked on one
with this issue, but I've seen it. I don't recall whether you can get the
wheel off the crankshaft or whether the crank counterweights are in the
way and you need to replace the whole crankshaft.

 

I forgot to mention, either way, you'll need to remove the crankshaft from
the engine.

 

I forgot to mention, either way, you'll need to remove the crankshaft from
the engine.

 

I forgot to mention, either way, you'll need to remove the crankshaft from
the engine.

 

WEll, Thanks to you, Mystery solved! I pulled the transmission and most of
the front end. I puled the pan and found that the tone wheel eas indeed
broken from the crank. It has teeth missing on one spot. I have the crank
ready to pull. I just have to remove the bolt to the crank pulley and then
all the rods and bearings.
I have not seen how bad the end of the crank is. I hope it is repairable.
Should I replace everything under her now? It has 101,000 miles on it. If so
what should I replace? Thanks again for all your help.


hyundaitech wrote:
>I forgot to mention, either way, you'll need to remove the crankshaft from
>the engine.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1

 

WEll, Thanks to you, Mystery solved! I pulled the transmission and most of
the front end. I puled the pan and found that the tone wheel eas indeed
broken from the crank. It has teeth missing on one spot. I have the crank
ready to pull. I just have to remove the bolt to the crank pulley and then
all the rods and bearings.
I have not seen how bad the end of the crank is. I hope it is repairable.
Should I replace everything under her now? It has 101,000 miles on it. If so
what should I replace? Thanks again for all your help.


hyundaitech wrote:
>I forgot to mention, either way, you'll need to remove the crankshaft from
>the engine.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1

 

WEll, Thanks to you, Mystery solved! I pulled the transmission and most of
the front end. I puled the pan and found that the tone wheel eas indeed
broken from the crank. It has teeth missing on one spot. I have the crank
ready to pull. I just have to remove the bolt to the crank pulley and then
all the rods and bearings.
I have not seen how bad the end of the crank is. I hope it is repairable.
Should I replace everything under her now? It has 101,000 miles on it. If so
what should I replace? Thanks again for all your help.


hyundaitech wrote:
>I forgot to mention, either way, you'll need to remove the crankshaft from
>the engine.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/hyundai/200603/1

 

I'd put new rod and main bearings in along with the front crank and rear
main seals. You'll need a new gasket for the oil pump/front case
assembly. Since you've got the timing belt off, you should probably
replace the timing and drive belts.

 

I'd put new rod and main bearings in along with the front crank and rear
main seals. You'll need a new gasket for the oil pump/front case
assembly. Since you've got the timing belt off, you should probably
replace the timing and drive belts.