On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 02:25:31 GMT, Matt Whiting <whiting@epix.net>
wrote:

>irwell wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 05 Aug 2006 17:10:01 -0400, "hyundaitech"
>> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>While Eric's correct that your issue likely has nothing to do with the
>>>battery, it's been my experience that the Hyundai OE batteries rarely last
>>>longer than yours has already. It wouldn't be a bad idea to keep an eye on
>>>it, but I don't think I'd replace it in a panic, either.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Any recommendations for a replacement battery.
>
>I wouldn't suggest a Hyundai battery after hyundaitech's comment about
>three years being a typical life. That is abysmal for a car battery.
>I've had good luck with both Delco and Sears Diehards (the top-end
>Diehards, not the el cheapo versions). Interstate has tested well by CR
>in the past. Buy one that has at least a 60 month warranty and you are
>likely getting a decent one. The warranty is prorated so you may not
>get much if your battery dies early, but the warranty is some indication
>of the confidence the manufacturer has in the battery.
>
>
>Matt

My 2001 Accent still have the original battery and it is still
cranking strong. In the fall, a trickle charger is used to keep it
topped up. I plan to replace the battery at the slightest sign of
trouble.

I use contact cleaner at the battery posts and ground. It did wonders
for the pulse generator connection.

 

On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 02:25:31 GMT, Matt Whiting <whiting@epix.net>
wrote:

>irwell wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 05 Aug 2006 17:10:01 -0400, "hyundaitech"
>> <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>While Eric's correct that your issue likely has nothing to do with the
>>>battery, it's been my experience that the Hyundai OE batteries rarely last
>>>longer than yours has already. It wouldn't be a bad idea to keep an eye on
>>>it, but I don't think I'd replace it in a panic, either.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Any recommendations for a replacement battery.
>
>I wouldn't suggest a Hyundai battery after hyundaitech's comment about
>three years being a typical life. That is abysmal for a car battery.
>I've had good luck with both Delco and Sears Diehards (the top-end
>Diehards, not the el cheapo versions). Interstate has tested well by CR
>in the past. Buy one that has at least a 60 month warranty and you are
>likely getting a decent one. The warranty is prorated so you may not
>get much if your battery dies early, but the warranty is some indication
>of the confidence the manufacturer has in the battery.
>
>
>Matt

My 2001 Accent still have the original battery and it is still
cranking strong. In the fall, a trickle charger is used to keep it
topped up. I plan to replace the battery at the slightest sign of
trouble.

I use contact cleaner at the battery posts and ground. It did wonders
for the pulse generator connection.

 

The replacement batteries aren't the same Korean crap (my opinion)
batteries that come in the cars. Replacement batteries are made by
Interstate. That said, you can probably find just as much battery or more
for a lower price at places other than the dealer. My experience is that
it's a crapshoot, but I definitely wouldn't want one of those Korean
batteries in *my* car.

The Korean batteries are typically branded "Solite" or "Delkor."

 

The replacement batteries aren't the same Korean crap (my opinion)
batteries that come in the cars. Replacement batteries are made by
Interstate. That said, you can probably find just as much battery or more
for a lower price at places other than the dealer. My experience is that
it's a crapshoot, but I definitely wouldn't want one of those Korean
batteries in *my* car.

The Korean batteries are typically branded "Solite" or "Delkor."

 

On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:16:45 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>The replacement batteries aren't the same Korean crap (my opinion)
>batteries that come in the cars. Replacement batteries are made by
>Interstate. That said, you can probably find just as much battery or more
>for a lower price at places other than the dealer. My experience is that
>it's a crapshoot, but I definitely wouldn't want one of those Korean
>batteries in *my* car.
>
>The Korean batteries are typically branded "Solite" or "Delkor."

Thanks for the info.
The power door lock is still ongoing.
Here is a summary of the events.

A) Most of the time turning the key in the
driver's door lock, all the door locks open.

B) Only the driver's door will lock from
the key position, the other doors have to
be manually locked.

C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally,
so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.

Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock
circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound
as the key is turned.

 

On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:16:45 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>The replacement batteries aren't the same Korean crap (my opinion)
>batteries that come in the cars. Replacement batteries are made by
>Interstate. That said, you can probably find just as much battery or more
>for a lower price at places other than the dealer. My experience is that
>it's a crapshoot, but I definitely wouldn't want one of those Korean
>batteries in *my* car.
>
>The Korean batteries are typically branded "Solite" or "Delkor."

Thanks for the info.
The power door lock is still ongoing.
Here is a summary of the events.

A) Most of the time turning the key in the
driver's door lock, all the door locks open.

B) Only the driver's door will lock from
the key position, the other doors have to
be manually locked.

C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally,
so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.

Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock
circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound
as the key is turned.

 

There are two door lock relays behind the passenger side of the dash. The
problem is almost certainly in one of them, but it could be either.

 

There are two door lock relays behind the passenger side of the dash. The
problem is almost certainly in one of them, but it could be either.

 

On Tue, 08 Aug 2006 12:36:38 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>There are two door lock relays behind the passenger side of the dash. The
>problem is almost certainly in one of them, but it could be either.

Thanks, will take it into the dealer
for them to look at.

 

On Tue, 08 Aug 2006 12:36:38 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>There are two door lock relays behind the passenger side of the dash. The
>problem is almost certainly in one of them, but it could be either.

Thanks, will take it into the dealer
for them to look at.

 

This may sound dumb, but have you tried some lock lubricant in the lock
cylinders?

I had a problem like this on a Toyota where the driver's key would not
lock or unlock, or sometimes it would do one and not the other. The
passenger side always worked. Sometimes the trunk lock would also
refuse to turn with the key.

After spending some effort checking electrics, it was found that the
driver's door lock cylinder just needed a good dose of lubricant. That
also fixed the problem with the sticking trunk lock.

irwell wrote:

> Thanks for the info.
> The power door lock is still ongoing.
> Here is a summary of the events.
>
> A) Most of the time turning the key in the
> driver's door lock, all the door locks open.
>
> B) Only the driver's door will lock from
> the key position, the other doors have to
> be manually locked.
>
> C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally,
> so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.
>
> Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock
> circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound
> as the key is turned.

 

This may sound dumb, but have you tried some lock lubricant in the lock
cylinders?

I had a problem like this on a Toyota where the driver's key would not
lock or unlock, or sometimes it would do one and not the other. The
passenger side always worked. Sometimes the trunk lock would also
refuse to turn with the key.

After spending some effort checking electrics, it was found that the
driver's door lock cylinder just needed a good dose of lubricant. That
also fixed the problem with the sticking trunk lock.

irwell wrote:

> Thanks for the info.
> The power door lock is still ongoing.
> Here is a summary of the events.
>
> A) Most of the time turning the key in the
> driver's door lock, all the door locks open.
>
> B) Only the driver's door will lock from
> the key position, the other doors have to
> be manually locked.
>
> C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally,
> so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.
>
> Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock
> circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound
> as the key is turned.

 

Thanks, I will give that a shot.


On 8 Aug 2006 16:39:56 -0700, "PMDR" <kikaiju@gmail.com> wrote:

>This may sound dumb, but have you tried some lock lubricant in the lock
>cylinders?
>
>I had a problem like this on a Toyota where the driver's key would not
>lock or unlock, or sometimes it would do one and not the other. The
>passenger side always worked. Sometimes the trunk lock would also
>refuse to turn with the key.
>
>After spending some effort checking electrics, it was found that the
>driver's door lock cylinder just needed a good dose of lubricant. That
>also fixed the problem with the sticking trunk lock.
>
>irwell wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the info.
>> The power door lock is still ongoing.
>> Here is a summary of the events.
>>
>> A) Most of the time turning the key in the
>> driver's door lock, all the door locks open.
>>
>> B) Only the driver's door will lock from
>> the key position, the other doors have to
>> be manually locked.
>>
>> C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally,
>> so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.
>>
>> Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock
>> circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound
>> as the key is turned.

 

Thanks, I will give that a shot.


On 8 Aug 2006 16:39:56 -0700, "PMDR" <kikaiju@gmail.com> wrote:

>This may sound dumb, but have you tried some lock lubricant in the lock
>cylinders?
>
>I had a problem like this on a Toyota where the driver's key would not
>lock or unlock, or sometimes it would do one and not the other. The
>passenger side always worked. Sometimes the trunk lock would also
>refuse to turn with the key.
>
>After spending some effort checking electrics, it was found that the
>driver's door lock cylinder just needed a good dose of lubricant. That
>also fixed the problem with the sticking trunk lock.
>
>irwell wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the info.
>> The power door lock is still ongoing.
>> Here is a summary of the events.
>>
>> A) Most of the time turning the key in the
>> driver's door lock, all the door locks open.
>>
>> B) Only the driver's door will lock from
>> the key position, the other doors have to
>> be manually locked.
>>
>> C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally,
>> so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.
>>
>> Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock
>> circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound
>> as the key is turned.

 

On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:16:45 -0400, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:

>The replacement batteries aren't the same Korean crap (my opinion)
>batteries that come in the cars. Replacement batteries are made by
>Interstate. That said, you can probably find just as much battery or more
>for a lower price at places other than the dealer. My experience is that
>it's a crapshoot, but I definitely wouldn't want one of those Korean
>batteries in *my* car.
>
>The Korean batteries are typically branded "Solite" or "Delkor."

I can't speak about the Korean batteries but I have had several
conversations with US battery folks in the past that boiled down to
the technology being so mature that the average user will get a few
months more than the warranty he buys. On one hand they know why they
fail and how to avoid it. On the other the competition is tough
enough that no one is giving you much more than you pay for.