I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it.
It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good ones
than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces
of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=45

I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman
to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is
like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post
whatever info you have...
Thanks!

 

For what it is worth, I have a 1996 Accent with 208,600 miles on it. I
bought the car new and I still am happy with it. I change the oil and
filter every 3,000 miles. It is a 5 speed manual.


"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e49c37599f8d@uwe...
> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like
> it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good
> ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy
> pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
> http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=45
>
> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the
> salesman
> to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going
> to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership
> is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip.
> Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

 

For what it is worth, I have a 1996 Accent with 208,600 miles on it. I
bought the car new and I still am happy with it. I change the oil and
filter every 3,000 miles. It is a 5 speed manual.


"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e49c37599f8d@uwe...
> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like
> it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good
> ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy
> pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
> http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=45
>
> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the
> salesman
> to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going
> to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership
> is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip.
> Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

 

For what it is worth, I have a 1996 Accent with 208,600 miles on it. I
bought the car new and I still am happy with it. I change the oil and
filter every 3,000 miles. It is a 5 speed manual.


"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e49c37599f8d@uwe...
> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like
> it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good
> ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy
> pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
> http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=45
>
> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the
> salesman
> to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going
> to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership
> is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip.
> Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

 

"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e49c37599f8d@uwe...

> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like
it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good
ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy
pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:

Well - as ads go, it certainly looks like a good first car. But ads are
ads. I guess the first question I would ask you is why do you feel you can
talk the salesman down? What will be the basis of your negotiating? Not to
suggest you can't, because we all do, but he has to have a reason to come
off his price. No offense, but he's going to look at a 17 year old as
someone who is not his mental equal and he's going to tell you a ton of
things to keep the price up there and bank on the fact that he'll convince
you of the car's worth, or make you feel like he doesn't care if you walk
away or not. Do you have the cash for the car? If you do, you've got a
negotiating platform. If you're looking for a loan he will know you'll need
a co-signer and if you come in alone (without a co-signer), he's not going
to take you seriously. Just the realities of how things work. Can he sell
you a car in your state at your age? So - think about these things and go
in prepared with how-ever or what-ever you need to actually negotiate a
deal.

As far as an 85,000 mile Hyundai goes - there's not inherently anything to
be afraid of in that mileage. I'd make sure the dealer certifies that the
timing belt has been changed. There won't be any Hyundai warranty on the
car at that mileage, but the car required a new timing belt at/before 60,000
miles and you'd be at risk of a major engine problem if the belt has not
been changed. This is not unique to Hyundai - it's an interference engine
matter. When ever you consider a used car you should spend the $15 or $20
and purchase a Carfax report on the car. There's a certain amount of
assurance in that - not fool proof, but better than taking a saleman's word
on things. You'll need the VIN to pull a Carfax.

Hyundai's are far from flimsy pieces of crap. They are as well built and
reliable as any car in their class, and will survive an impact as well as
any car in their class. Look at all of them on the road. Look at the minor
collision damage you see on them - do you see fenders torn or any other
signs of a car that is somehow more flimsey than any other car out there?
Of course not. Call your insurance agent. Tell him what you're interested
in. If Hyundai's were flimsey and were death traps, the insurance premiums
would reflect that because the insurance companies would be paying out
higher claims on them. They aren't. Ask your agent if it would be any
cheaper to insure another car in the same class. Nope. Your friends just
don't know what they're talking about - sorry.

> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the
salesman
> to death,

So - what are you going to ask him? What does interrogate him to death
mean? It's not a bad idea when buying a used car, but you have to have a
plan for what kind of information is meaningful and what kind of information
you really need to know. That Carfax report is a good starting point.

The best thing you can do for yourself is to take the car to a mechanic you
trust and have him look the car over. A real, qualified mechanic will know
what things to look at and will give you sound advice. Take it. $1750 may
not be a lot of money as cars go, but it's all you have and you don't want
to waste it.

> but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership
is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip.
Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

There's no guarantees in the used car world. Anything you buy could very
well die two days after the dealer's warranty is up. That's the risks you
take. In most states the dealer has to warranty the car for some period -
but that varies from state to state. Check your state laws. If the dealer
does not have a specific, written warranty, walk. Don't fall for the verbal
warranty crap. You don't have the money to chase a claim through the court
system on a verbal or implied warranty. Used car warranties will often
cover "drive train". Get a written description of what is covered in "drive
train" and what is excluded. The dealer doesn't have that? Walk.

Your web link is for a dealer that only operates by appointment. That
scares me right off the bat. Maybe it's legit, but it's unusual. I'd be on
guard big time. Do yourself a favor - and again, don't take insult at this,
but take an old fart with you. No sense setting yourself up to be taken
advantage of by an unscrupulous dealer. 45-50 year old farts like some of
the guys in this newsgroup can have a leveling affect on a dealer.

Good luck...

BTW - what kind of axe ya got?

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e49c37599f8d@uwe...

> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like
it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good
ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy
pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:

Well - as ads go, it certainly looks like a good first car. But ads are
ads. I guess the first question I would ask you is why do you feel you can
talk the salesman down? What will be the basis of your negotiating? Not to
suggest you can't, because we all do, but he has to have a reason to come
off his price. No offense, but he's going to look at a 17 year old as
someone who is not his mental equal and he's going to tell you a ton of
things to keep the price up there and bank on the fact that he'll convince
you of the car's worth, or make you feel like he doesn't care if you walk
away or not. Do you have the cash for the car? If you do, you've got a
negotiating platform. If you're looking for a loan he will know you'll need
a co-signer and if you come in alone (without a co-signer), he's not going
to take you seriously. Just the realities of how things work. Can he sell
you a car in your state at your age? So - think about these things and go
in prepared with how-ever or what-ever you need to actually negotiate a
deal.

As far as an 85,000 mile Hyundai goes - there's not inherently anything to
be afraid of in that mileage. I'd make sure the dealer certifies that the
timing belt has been changed. There won't be any Hyundai warranty on the
car at that mileage, but the car required a new timing belt at/before 60,000
miles and you'd be at risk of a major engine problem if the belt has not
been changed. This is not unique to Hyundai - it's an interference engine
matter. When ever you consider a used car you should spend the $15 or $20
and purchase a Carfax report on the car. There's a certain amount of
assurance in that - not fool proof, but better than taking a saleman's word
on things. You'll need the VIN to pull a Carfax.

Hyundai's are far from flimsy pieces of crap. They are as well built and
reliable as any car in their class, and will survive an impact as well as
any car in their class. Look at all of them on the road. Look at the minor
collision damage you see on them - do you see fenders torn or any other
signs of a car that is somehow more flimsey than any other car out there?
Of course not. Call your insurance agent. Tell him what you're interested
in. If Hyundai's were flimsey and were death traps, the insurance premiums
would reflect that because the insurance companies would be paying out
higher claims on them. They aren't. Ask your agent if it would be any
cheaper to insure another car in the same class. Nope. Your friends just
don't know what they're talking about - sorry.

> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the
salesman
> to death,

So - what are you going to ask him? What does interrogate him to death
mean? It's not a bad idea when buying a used car, but you have to have a
plan for what kind of information is meaningful and what kind of information
you really need to know. That Carfax report is a good starting point.

The best thing you can do for yourself is to take the car to a mechanic you
trust and have him look the car over. A real, qualified mechanic will know
what things to look at and will give you sound advice. Take it. $1750 may
not be a lot of money as cars go, but it's all you have and you don't want
to waste it.

> but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership
is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip.
Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

There's no guarantees in the used car world. Anything you buy could very
well die two days after the dealer's warranty is up. That's the risks you
take. In most states the dealer has to warranty the car for some period -
but that varies from state to state. Check your state laws. If the dealer
does not have a specific, written warranty, walk. Don't fall for the verbal
warranty crap. You don't have the money to chase a claim through the court
system on a verbal or implied warranty. Used car warranties will often
cover "drive train". Get a written description of what is covered in "drive
train" and what is excluded. The dealer doesn't have that? Walk.

Your web link is for a dealer that only operates by appointment. That
scares me right off the bat. Maybe it's legit, but it's unusual. I'd be on
guard big time. Do yourself a favor - and again, don't take insult at this,
but take an old fart with you. No sense setting yourself up to be taken
advantage of by an unscrupulous dealer. 45-50 year old farts like some of
the guys in this newsgroup can have a leveling affect on a dealer.

Good luck...

BTW - what kind of axe ya got?

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e49c37599f8d@uwe...

> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like
it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good
ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy
pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:

Well - as ads go, it certainly looks like a good first car. But ads are
ads. I guess the first question I would ask you is why do you feel you can
talk the salesman down? What will be the basis of your negotiating? Not to
suggest you can't, because we all do, but he has to have a reason to come
off his price. No offense, but he's going to look at a 17 year old as
someone who is not his mental equal and he's going to tell you a ton of
things to keep the price up there and bank on the fact that he'll convince
you of the car's worth, or make you feel like he doesn't care if you walk
away or not. Do you have the cash for the car? If you do, you've got a
negotiating platform. If you're looking for a loan he will know you'll need
a co-signer and if you come in alone (without a co-signer), he's not going
to take you seriously. Just the realities of how things work. Can he sell
you a car in your state at your age? So - think about these things and go
in prepared with how-ever or what-ever you need to actually negotiate a
deal.

As far as an 85,000 mile Hyundai goes - there's not inherently anything to
be afraid of in that mileage. I'd make sure the dealer certifies that the
timing belt has been changed. There won't be any Hyundai warranty on the
car at that mileage, but the car required a new timing belt at/before 60,000
miles and you'd be at risk of a major engine problem if the belt has not
been changed. This is not unique to Hyundai - it's an interference engine
matter. When ever you consider a used car you should spend the $15 or $20
and purchase a Carfax report on the car. There's a certain amount of
assurance in that - not fool proof, but better than taking a saleman's word
on things. You'll need the VIN to pull a Carfax.

Hyundai's are far from flimsy pieces of crap. They are as well built and
reliable as any car in their class, and will survive an impact as well as
any car in their class. Look at all of them on the road. Look at the minor
collision damage you see on them - do you see fenders torn or any other
signs of a car that is somehow more flimsey than any other car out there?
Of course not. Call your insurance agent. Tell him what you're interested
in. If Hyundai's were flimsey and were death traps, the insurance premiums
would reflect that because the insurance companies would be paying out
higher claims on them. They aren't. Ask your agent if it would be any
cheaper to insure another car in the same class. Nope. Your friends just
don't know what they're talking about - sorry.

> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the
salesman
> to death,

So - what are you going to ask him? What does interrogate him to death
mean? It's not a bad idea when buying a used car, but you have to have a
plan for what kind of information is meaningful and what kind of information
you really need to know. That Carfax report is a good starting point.

The best thing you can do for yourself is to take the car to a mechanic you
trust and have him look the car over. A real, qualified mechanic will know
what things to look at and will give you sound advice. Take it. $1750 may
not be a lot of money as cars go, but it's all you have and you don't want
to waste it.

> but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership
is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip.
Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

There's no guarantees in the used car world. Anything you buy could very
well die two days after the dealer's warranty is up. That's the risks you
take. In most states the dealer has to warranty the car for some period -
but that varies from state to state. Check your state laws. If the dealer
does not have a specific, written warranty, walk. Don't fall for the verbal
warranty crap. You don't have the money to chase a claim through the court
system on a verbal or implied warranty. Used car warranties will often
cover "drive train". Get a written description of what is covered in "drive
train" and what is excluded. The dealer doesn't have that? Walk.

Your web link is for a dealer that only operates by appointment. That
scares me right off the bat. Maybe it's legit, but it's unusual. I'd be on
guard big time. Do yourself a favor - and again, don't take insult at this,
but take an old fart with you. No sense setting yourself up to be taken
advantage of by an unscrupulous dealer. 45-50 year old farts like some of
the guys in this newsgroup can have a leveling affect on a dealer.

Good luck...

BTW - what kind of axe ya got?

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

Hendrxapprentice wrote:
> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
> http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=45
>
> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman
> to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

Don't ever buy a car without having it inspected by an independant
mechanic.

Chris

 

Hendrxapprentice wrote:
> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
> http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=45
>
> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman
> to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

Don't ever buy a car without having it inspected by an independant
mechanic.

Chris

 

Hendrxapprentice wrote:
> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it.
> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
> seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and
> this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it
> only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good ones
> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces
> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
> http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=45
>
> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman
> to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is
> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post
> whatever info you have...
> Thanks!

Don't ever buy a car without having it inspected by an independant
mechanic.

Chris

 

Hey, thanks for the post.
I was going to bring my stepdad with me to see the car soon and bring cash so
that it would be easier to talk him down and then see what kind of warranty
they caan offer. I know that they offer extended warranties. Also, I think i
can bring down the price because nada and kbb say that it could be a little
lower. If it's good condition it could be lower, but if it's in excellent,
then i probably couldnt budge it much. Im also researching the hell out of
this car, the reviews and safety. So that might help some. Also, ill probably
get a carfax report, test drive it, and get a compression test if i buy it,
because i heard you should do that. I took a 5 month driver's ed course (one
semester) in school so we spent 3 weeks on buying a used car. Like not ubying
it iof there's sufficient rust or water damage and what to look for for
cleanliness in the engine and crap like that. I probably wont go out to see
it for about 3 weeks though. Surprisingly, the biggest thing im worried about
is paying for car insurance.

I have a Dillion PRS Copy, a custom made strat, and a Takamine EF series.

Mike Marlow wrote:
>> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it.
>> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces
>> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
>
>Well - as ads go, it certainly looks like a good first car. But ads are
>ads. I guess the first question I would ask you is why do you feel you can
>talk the salesman down? What will be the basis of your negotiating? Not to
>suggest you can't, because we all do, but he has to have a reason to come
>off his price. No offense, but he's going to look at a 17 year old as
>someone who is not his mental equal and he's going to tell you a ton of
>things to keep the price up there and bank on the fact that he'll convince
>you of the car's worth, or make you feel like he doesn't care if you walk
>away or not. Do you have the cash for the car? If you do, you've got a
>negotiating platform. If you're looking for a loan he will know you'll need
>a co-signer and if you come in alone (without a co-signer), he's not going
>to take you seriously. Just the realities of how things work. Can he sell
>you a car in your state at your age? So - think about these things and go
>in prepared with how-ever or what-ever you need to actually negotiate a
>deal.
>
>As far as an 85,000 mile Hyundai goes - there's not inherently anything to
>be afraid of in that mileage. I'd make sure the dealer certifies that the
>timing belt has been changed. There won't be any Hyundai warranty on the
>car at that mileage, but the car required a new timing belt at/before 60,000
>miles and you'd be at risk of a major engine problem if the belt has not
>been changed. This is not unique to Hyundai - it's an interference engine
>matter. When ever you consider a used car you should spend the $15 or $20
>and purchase a Carfax report on the car. There's a certain amount of
>assurance in that - not fool proof, but better than taking a saleman's word
>on things. You'll need the VIN to pull a Carfax.
>
>Hyundai's are far from flimsy pieces of crap. They are as well built and
>reliable as any car in their class, and will survive an impact as well as
>any car in their class. Look at all of them on the road. Look at the minor
>collision damage you see on them - do you see fenders torn or any other
>signs of a car that is somehow more flimsey than any other car out there?
>Of course not. Call your insurance agent. Tell him what you're interested
>in. If Hyundai's were flimsey and were death traps, the insurance premiums
>would reflect that because the insurance companies would be paying out
>higher claims on them. They aren't. Ask your agent if it would be any
>cheaper to insure another car in the same class. Nope. Your friends just
>don't know what they're talking about - sorry.
>
>> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman
>> to death,
>
>So - what are you going to ask him? What does interrogate him to death
>mean? It's not a bad idea when buying a used car, but you have to have a
>plan for what kind of information is meaningful and what kind of information
>you really need to know. That Carfax report is a good starting point.
>
>The best thing you can do for yourself is to take the car to a mechanic you
>trust and have him look the car over. A real, qualified mechanic will know
>what things to look at and will give you sound advice. Take it. $1750 may
>not be a lot of money as cars go, but it's all you have and you don't want
>to waste it.
>
>> but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
>> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is
>> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post
>> whatever info you have...
>> Thanks!
>
>There's no guarantees in the used car world. Anything you buy could very
>well die two days after the dealer's warranty is up. That's the risks you
>take. In most states the dealer has to warranty the car for some period -
>but that varies from state to state. Check your state laws. If the dealer
>does not have a specific, written warranty, walk. Don't fall for the verbal
>warranty crap. You don't have the money to chase a claim through the court
>system on a verbal or implied warranty. Used car warranties will often
>cover "drive train". Get a written description of what is covered in "drive
>train" and what is excluded. The dealer doesn't have that? Walk.
>
>Your web link is for a dealer that only operates by appointment. That
>scares me right off the bat. Maybe it's legit, but it's unusual. I'd be on
>guard big time. Do yourself a favor - and again, don't take insult at this,
>but take an old fart with you. No sense setting yourself up to be taken
>advantage of by an unscrupulous dealer. 45-50 year old farts like some of
>the guys in this newsgroup can have a leveling affect on a dealer.
>
>Good luck...
>
>BTW - what kind of axe ya got?
>

 

Hey, thanks for the post.
I was going to bring my stepdad with me to see the car soon and bring cash so
that it would be easier to talk him down and then see what kind of warranty
they caan offer. I know that they offer extended warranties. Also, I think i
can bring down the price because nada and kbb say that it could be a little
lower. If it's good condition it could be lower, but if it's in excellent,
then i probably couldnt budge it much. Im also researching the hell out of
this car, the reviews and safety. So that might help some. Also, ill probably
get a carfax report, test drive it, and get a compression test if i buy it,
because i heard you should do that. I took a 5 month driver's ed course (one
semester) in school so we spent 3 weeks on buying a used car. Like not ubying
it iof there's sufficient rust or water damage and what to look for for
cleanliness in the engine and crap like that. I probably wont go out to see
it for about 3 weeks though. Surprisingly, the biggest thing im worried about
is paying for car insurance.

I have a Dillion PRS Copy, a custom made strat, and a Takamine EF series.

Mike Marlow wrote:
>> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it.
>> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces
>> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
>
>Well - as ads go, it certainly looks like a good first car. But ads are
>ads. I guess the first question I would ask you is why do you feel you can
>talk the salesman down? What will be the basis of your negotiating? Not to
>suggest you can't, because we all do, but he has to have a reason to come
>off his price. No offense, but he's going to look at a 17 year old as
>someone who is not his mental equal and he's going to tell you a ton of
>things to keep the price up there and bank on the fact that he'll convince
>you of the car's worth, or make you feel like he doesn't care if you walk
>away or not. Do you have the cash for the car? If you do, you've got a
>negotiating platform. If you're looking for a loan he will know you'll need
>a co-signer and if you come in alone (without a co-signer), he's not going
>to take you seriously. Just the realities of how things work. Can he sell
>you a car in your state at your age? So - think about these things and go
>in prepared with how-ever or what-ever you need to actually negotiate a
>deal.
>
>As far as an 85,000 mile Hyundai goes - there's not inherently anything to
>be afraid of in that mileage. I'd make sure the dealer certifies that the
>timing belt has been changed. There won't be any Hyundai warranty on the
>car at that mileage, but the car required a new timing belt at/before 60,000
>miles and you'd be at risk of a major engine problem if the belt has not
>been changed. This is not unique to Hyundai - it's an interference engine
>matter. When ever you consider a used car you should spend the $15 or $20
>and purchase a Carfax report on the car. There's a certain amount of
>assurance in that - not fool proof, but better than taking a saleman's word
>on things. You'll need the VIN to pull a Carfax.
>
>Hyundai's are far from flimsy pieces of crap. They are as well built and
>reliable as any car in their class, and will survive an impact as well as
>any car in their class. Look at all of them on the road. Look at the minor
>collision damage you see on them - do you see fenders torn or any other
>signs of a car that is somehow more flimsey than any other car out there?
>Of course not. Call your insurance agent. Tell him what you're interested
>in. If Hyundai's were flimsey and were death traps, the insurance premiums
>would reflect that because the insurance companies would be paying out
>higher claims on them. They aren't. Ask your agent if it would be any
>cheaper to insure another car in the same class. Nope. Your friends just
>don't know what they're talking about - sorry.
>
>> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman
>> to death,
>
>So - what are you going to ask him? What does interrogate him to death
>mean? It's not a bad idea when buying a used car, but you have to have a
>plan for what kind of information is meaningful and what kind of information
>you really need to know. That Carfax report is a good starting point.
>
>The best thing you can do for yourself is to take the car to a mechanic you
>trust and have him look the car over. A real, qualified mechanic will know
>what things to look at and will give you sound advice. Take it. $1750 may
>not be a lot of money as cars go, but it's all you have and you don't want
>to waste it.
>
>> but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
>> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is
>> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post
>> whatever info you have...
>> Thanks!
>
>There's no guarantees in the used car world. Anything you buy could very
>well die two days after the dealer's warranty is up. That's the risks you
>take. In most states the dealer has to warranty the car for some period -
>but that varies from state to state. Check your state laws. If the dealer
>does not have a specific, written warranty, walk. Don't fall for the verbal
>warranty crap. You don't have the money to chase a claim through the court
>system on a verbal or implied warranty. Used car warranties will often
>cover "drive train". Get a written description of what is covered in "drive
>train" and what is excluded. The dealer doesn't have that? Walk.
>
>Your web link is for a dealer that only operates by appointment. That
>scares me right off the bat. Maybe it's legit, but it's unusual. I'd be on
>guard big time. Do yourself a favor - and again, don't take insult at this,
>but take an old fart with you. No sense setting yourself up to be taken
>advantage of by an unscrupulous dealer. 45-50 year old farts like some of
>the guys in this newsgroup can have a leveling affect on a dealer.
>
>Good luck...
>
>BTW - what kind of axe ya got?
>

 

Hey, thanks for the post.
I was going to bring my stepdad with me to see the car soon and bring cash so
that it would be easier to talk him down and then see what kind of warranty
they caan offer. I know that they offer extended warranties. Also, I think i
can bring down the price because nada and kbb say that it could be a little
lower. If it's good condition it could be lower, but if it's in excellent,
then i probably couldnt budge it much. Im also researching the hell out of
this car, the reviews and safety. So that might help some. Also, ill probably
get a carfax report, test drive it, and get a compression test if i buy it,
because i heard you should do that. I took a 5 month driver's ed course (one
semester) in school so we spent 3 weeks on buying a used car. Like not ubying
it iof there's sufficient rust or water damage and what to look for for
cleanliness in the engine and crap like that. I probably wont go out to see
it for about 3 weeks though. Surprisingly, the biggest thing im worried about
is paying for car insurance.

I have a Dillion PRS Copy, a custom made strat, and a Takamine EF series.

Mike Marlow wrote:
>> I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it.
>> It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces
>> of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
>
>Well - as ads go, it certainly looks like a good first car. But ads are
>ads. I guess the first question I would ask you is why do you feel you can
>talk the salesman down? What will be the basis of your negotiating? Not to
>suggest you can't, because we all do, but he has to have a reason to come
>off his price. No offense, but he's going to look at a 17 year old as
>someone who is not his mental equal and he's going to tell you a ton of
>things to keep the price up there and bank on the fact that he'll convince
>you of the car's worth, or make you feel like he doesn't care if you walk
>away or not. Do you have the cash for the car? If you do, you've got a
>negotiating platform. If you're looking for a loan he will know you'll need
>a co-signer and if you come in alone (without a co-signer), he's not going
>to take you seriously. Just the realities of how things work. Can he sell
>you a car in your state at your age? So - think about these things and go
>in prepared with how-ever or what-ever you need to actually negotiate a
>deal.
>
>As far as an 85,000 mile Hyundai goes - there's not inherently anything to
>be afraid of in that mileage. I'd make sure the dealer certifies that the
>timing belt has been changed. There won't be any Hyundai warranty on the
>car at that mileage, but the car required a new timing belt at/before 60,000
>miles and you'd be at risk of a major engine problem if the belt has not
>been changed. This is not unique to Hyundai - it's an interference engine
>matter. When ever you consider a used car you should spend the $15 or $20
>and purchase a Carfax report on the car. There's a certain amount of
>assurance in that - not fool proof, but better than taking a saleman's word
>on things. You'll need the VIN to pull a Carfax.
>
>Hyundai's are far from flimsy pieces of crap. They are as well built and
>reliable as any car in their class, and will survive an impact as well as
>any car in their class. Look at all of them on the road. Look at the minor
>collision damage you see on them - do you see fenders torn or any other
>signs of a car that is somehow more flimsey than any other car out there?
>Of course not. Call your insurance agent. Tell him what you're interested
>in. If Hyundai's were flimsey and were death traps, the insurance premiums
>would reflect that because the insurance companies would be paying out
>higher claims on them. They aren't. Ask your agent if it would be any
>cheaper to insure another car in the same class. Nope. Your friends just
>don't know what they're talking about - sorry.
>
>> I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman
>> to death,
>
>So - what are you going to ask him? What does interrogate him to death
>mean? It's not a bad idea when buying a used car, but you have to have a
>plan for what kind of information is meaningful and what kind of information
>you really need to know. That Carfax report is a good starting point.
>
>The best thing you can do for yourself is to take the car to a mechanic you
>trust and have him look the car over. A real, qualified mechanic will know
>what things to look at and will give you sound advice. Take it. $1750 may
>not be a lot of money as cars go, but it's all you have and you don't want
>to waste it.
>
>> but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to
>> fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is
>> like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post
>> whatever info you have...
>> Thanks!
>
>There's no guarantees in the used car world. Anything you buy could very
>well die two days after the dealer's warranty is up. That's the risks you
>take. In most states the dealer has to warranty the car for some period -
>but that varies from state to state. Check your state laws. If the dealer
>does not have a specific, written warranty, walk. Don't fall for the verbal
>warranty crap. You don't have the money to chase a claim through the court
>system on a verbal or implied warranty. Used car warranties will often
>cover "drive train". Get a written description of what is covered in "drive
>train" and what is excluded. The dealer doesn't have that? Walk.
>
>Your web link is for a dealer that only operates by appointment. That
>scares me right off the bat. Maybe it's legit, but it's unusual. I'd be on
>guard big time. Do yourself a favor - and again, don't take insult at this,
>but take an old fart with you. No sense setting yourself up to be taken
>advantage of by an unscrupulous dealer. 45-50 year old farts like some of
>the guys in this newsgroup can have a leveling affect on a dealer.
>
>Good luck...
>
>BTW - what kind of axe ya got?
>

 

"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e4b2fda7c910@uwe...

> Hey, thanks for the post.

With a handle like that I couldn't let your post go by without offering a
bit of advice.

> I was going to bring my stepdad with me to see the car soon and bring cash
so
> that it would be easier to talk him down and then see what kind of
warranty
> they caan offer. I know that they offer extended warranties.

Stay away from extended warranties. No matter how good the dealer or anyone
else makes them sound, they are a rip off. There are more loopholes in
those contracts than there are holes in swiss cheese and they cost an absurd
amount. Those things are meant to prey on the fears of people and *never*
pay to invest in. Take the money you would have been paying for that
extended warranty and put it in the bank every month. By the time you're
ready to replace that car you'll have a nice little downpayment for your
next car. Or... you'll actually have the money to repair the car at a
fraction of what the warranty would have cost.

> Also, I think i
> can bring down the price because nada and kbb say that it could be a
little
> lower. If it's good condition it could be lower, but if it's in excellent,
> then i probably couldnt budge it much. Im also researching the hell out of
> this car, the reviews and safety. So that might help some. Also, ill
probably
> get a carfax report, test drive it, and get a compression test if i buy
it,
> because i heard you should do that. I took a 5 month driver's ed course
(one
> semester) in school so we spent 3 weeks on buying a used car. Like not
ubying
> it iof there's sufficient rust or water damage and what to look for for
> cleanliness in the engine and crap like that. I probably wont go out to
see
> it for about 3 weeks though. Surprisingly, the biggest thing im worried
about
> is paying for car insurance.

I like your approach - at least you're not drooling to get this car, no
matter what.

>
> I have a Dillion PRS Copy, a custom made strat, and a Takamine EF series.
>

Cool. I have a Terry C. McInturff Glory Standard, a Taylor 710CE, and a
Jackson that I've tweaked a bit - not even sure what the model number is.
It's a fat-strat configuration.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 

"Hendrxapprentice" <u20499@uwe> wrote in message news:5e4b2fda7c910@uwe...

> Hey, thanks for the post.

With a handle like that I couldn't let your post go by without offering a
bit of advice.

> I was going to bring my stepdad with me to see the car soon and bring cash
so
> that it would be easier to talk him down and then see what kind of
warranty
> they caan offer. I know that they offer extended warranties.

Stay away from extended warranties. No matter how good the dealer or anyone
else makes them sound, they are a rip off. There are more loopholes in
those contracts than there are holes in swiss cheese and they cost an absurd
amount. Those things are meant to prey on the fears of people and *never*
pay to invest in. Take the money you would have been paying for that
extended warranty and put it in the bank every month. By the time you're
ready to replace that car you'll have a nice little downpayment for your
next car. Or... you'll actually have the money to repair the car at a
fraction of what the warranty would have cost.

> Also, I think i
> can bring down the price because nada and kbb say that it could be a
little
> lower. If it's good condition it could be lower, but if it's in excellent,
> then i probably couldnt budge it much. Im also researching the hell out of
> this car, the reviews and safety. So that might help some. Also, ill
probably
> get a carfax report, test drive it, and get a compression test if i buy
it,
> because i heard you should do that. I took a 5 month driver's ed course
(one
> semester) in school so we spent 3 weeks on buying a used car. Like not
ubying
> it iof there's sufficient rust or water damage and what to look for for
> cleanliness in the engine and crap like that. I probably wont go out to
see
> it for about 3 weeks though. Surprisingly, the biggest thing im worried
about
> is paying for car insurance.

I like your approach - at least you're not drooling to get this car, no
matter what.

>
> I have a Dillion PRS Copy, a custom made strat, and a Takamine EF series.
>

Cool. I have a Terry C. McInturff Glory Standard, a Taylor 710CE, and a
Jackson that I've tweaked a bit - not even sure what the model number is.
It's a fat-strat configuration.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net