Jon Stafford

Does anyone know someplace online that would have instructions for changing
the brake pads on a 2001 Accent? If not, is there anything unusual I might
have to know, or is it simple (I've only ever done it on American cars)? I'd
appreciate the advice. Thanks.

Jim Vatunz

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 07:48:09 GMT, Jon Stafford <jorost@earthlink.net>
wrote:

>Does anyone know someplace online that would have instructions for changing
>the brake pads on a 2001 Accent? If not, is there anything unusual I might
>have to know, or is it simple (I've only ever done it on American cars)? I'd
>appreciate the advice. Thanks.

Very easy job on it.
take the wheel off then undo the lower bolt where the pad holder bolts
to the caliper. from memory it's 12mm. then that bracket just pivots
upwards and the pads can easily be pulled out. just make a note of
where the pads and shims go. note also that one pad has a metal tang
on it that serves as a noisemaker for when they're worn down to
replacement level.
use a G clamp or similar to push the brake piston back into the
caliper taking care that the brake fluid level doesn't overflow
(unless the reservoir been topped up recently it shouldn't happen),
then with the new pads installed in the holder swing it back down into
it's original position on the caliper, be careful to make sure the
shims stay in place.
Tighten the lower bolt up to 28nm (someone correct me if my record is
wrong) of torque put the wheel back on and the jobs done. 100nm is
about right for the wheel nuts.

I have a webcam in the tropics
http://ii.net/~farmerjim/

Wayne Moses

Have you checked WebTech?

http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/default.asp

Wayne Moses,
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT
http://egt.gwebworks.com


"Jim Vatunz" <rot13.snezrewvz@vvarg.arg.nh> wrote in message
news:kuefe0dd3s6n9k1m0clkucl10ples7pd0n@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 07:48:09 GMT, Jon Stafford <jorost@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
> >Does anyone know someplace online that would have instructions for
changing
> >the brake pads on a 2001 Accent? If not, is there anything unusual I
might
> >have to know, or is it simple (I've only ever done it on American cars)?
I'd
> >appreciate the advice. Thanks.
>
> Very easy job on it.
> take the wheel off then undo the lower bolt where the pad holder bolts
> to the caliper. from memory it's 12mm. then that bracket just pivots
> upwards and the pads can easily be pulled out. just make a note of
> where the pads and shims go. note also that one pad has a metal tang
> on it that serves as a noisemaker for when they're worn down to
> replacement level.
> use a G clamp or similar to push the brake piston back into the
> caliper taking care that the brake fluid level doesn't overflow
> (unless the reservoir been topped up recently it shouldn't happen),
> then with the new pads installed in the holder swing it back down into
> it's original position on the caliper, be careful to make sure the
> shims stay in place.
> Tighten the lower bolt up to 28nm (someone correct me if my record is
> wrong) of torque put the wheel back on and the jobs done. 100nm is
> about right for the wheel nuts.
>
> I have a webcam in the tropics
> http://ii.net/~farmerjim/

norelpref

Jim Vatunz wrote:

> use a G clamp or similar to push the brake piston back into the
> caliper taking care that the brake fluid level doesn't overflow
> (unless the reservoir been topped up recently it shouldn't happen),

Just a pet peeve of mine, this is not specifically directed to you Jim..

No one should ever have a reason to put brake fluid into a car unless
they are swapping/exchanging fluid or they have recently repaired or
replaced a component that carries brake fluid (like a line, caliper,
wheel cylinder, master cylinder etc.. basically anything but the
pads/shoes). If you ever feel inclined to add fluid because you are
close to the min line or lower then normal, you may have a problem that
needs fixed and will only get worse. As the brakes wear, the fluid
level will go down as the brake fluid displaces the distance of travel
that the calipers or wheel cylinder is extended at rest. This is normal
and the reason for a "max" and "min" line labeled on the reservoir. The
level will always go back up when the pads/shoes are replaced. If not,
check for a leak and get it fixed. I have never seen a leaking brake
part not get worse and degrade quickly. More often then not, the
leaking fluid will contaminate the stopping surface rendering it useless.

On a related note, removing the fluid reservoir cover makes it easier to
drive the caliper pistons back in with the C clamp (If you added fluid
prior to this though, it will overflow ) and using the old pad turned
over against the piston saves you from scratching or marring the piston
surface with the clamp.

Jim Vatunz

On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 00:14:45 -0400, norelpref <norelpref@fake.inv>
wrote:

>Jim Vatunz wrote:
>
>> use a G clamp or similar to push the brake piston back into the
>> caliper taking care that the brake fluid level doesn't overflow
>> (unless the reservoir been topped up recently it shouldn't happen),
>
>Just a pet peeve of mine, this is not specifically directed to you Jim..

I'm glad.
you have a much better way of saying what i meant anyway.
There really is no need to ever top up a brake reservoir.
I only open mine every 2 years to change the fluid and i'm starting to
doubt whether it's worth the trouble.
i was so bored having nothing to service or replace on my Accent i
took the pads off at 60,000km and washed them. Since i'd only worn 1mm
or about 10% off the pad since new there was no point giving the car a
special treat and replace them. i wish the 90,000km mark will roll
along so i can do some real work and replace the timing belt.
>
>No one should ever have a reason to put brake fluid into a car unless
>they are swapping/exchanging fluid or they have recently repaired or
>replaced a component that carries brake fluid (like a line, caliper,
>wheel cylinder, master cylinder etc.. basically anything but the
>pads/shoes). If you ever feel inclined to add fluid because you are
>close to the min line or lower then normal, you may have a problem that
>needs fixed and will only get worse. As the brakes wear, the fluid
>level will go down as the brake fluid displaces the distance of travel
>that the calipers or wheel cylinder is extended at rest. This is normal
>and the reason for a "max" and "min" line labeled on the reservoir. The
>level will always go back up when the pads/shoes are replaced. If not,
>check for a leak and get it fixed. I have never seen a leaking brake
>part not get worse and degrade quickly. More often then not, the
>leaking fluid will contaminate the stopping surface rendering it useless.
>
>On a related note, removing the fluid reservoir cover makes it easier to
>drive the caliper pistons back in with the C clamp (If you added fluid
>prior to this though, it will overflow ) and using the old pad turned
>over against the piston saves you from scratching or marring the piston
>surface with the clamp.

I have a webcam in the tropics
http://ii.net/~farmerjim/