Smee

On 2006-06-02 13:34:51 -0400, Matt Whiting <whiting@epix.net> said:

> John H wrote:
>> You don't drive much more then I do. Vought mine 12/07/05 now just
>> under 2400 miles. Will take it in next week for an oil change.
>> anyhow I don't have either problem for what ever that may be worth.
>> "Tunez" <tunez1@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:20Yfg.22898$XV5.13863@fed1read10...
>>
>>> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300
>>> miles. I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed
>>> that with the headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate
>>> control ) that everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is
>>> this normal, I dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing
>>> it, I could be wrong and just happened to notice this one. Second
>>> concern is when breaking I get a slight pulsation in the break pedal
>>> between 20 and 30 MPH noting above that or nothing below that. I can
>>> see the rotors though the wheels ( custom wheels ) and they look
>>> perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or rear. Any suggestions
>
> At that rate of mileage accumulation, you guys would be as far ahead on
> a bicycle. :-)
>
> I got my Sonata last December 20th and have nearly 8,000 on it already. :-(
>
>
> Matt

Bought my Elentra in Sep. and have 3775 on it.

JS

Tunez wrote:
> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles. I
> dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with the
> headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I dont
> remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be wrong and

My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral
cell battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small
dim, but nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears
to be the same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is
Hyundai's battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around -
they do seem to start the car and last well enough though...

> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above that
> or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels ( custom
> wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or rear. Any
> suggestions

I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If
its been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the
wheels/tires I'd just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just
mention the pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut
torque balance.

JS

JS

Tunez wrote:
> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles. I
> dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with the
> headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I dont
> remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be wrong and

My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral
cell battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small
dim, but nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears
to be the same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is
Hyundai's battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around -
they do seem to start the car and last well enough though...

> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above that
> or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels ( custom
> wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or rear. Any
> suggestions

I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If
its been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the
wheels/tires I'd just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just
mention the pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut
torque balance.

JS

JS

Tunez wrote:
> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles. I
> dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with the
> headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I dont
> remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be wrong and

My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral
cell battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small
dim, but nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears
to be the same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is
Hyundai's battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around -
they do seem to start the car and last well enough though...

> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above that
> or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels ( custom
> wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or rear. Any
> suggestions

I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If
its been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the
wheels/tires I'd just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just
mention the pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut
torque balance.

JS

Tunez

Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the wheels )
but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
rotor,
Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
inside/outside
calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was clean
and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is gone and
Im happy

Tunez


----- Original Message -----
From: "JS" <jsuter@intrastardot.net>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.hyundai
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: Couple of small conerns


> Tunez wrote:
>> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles.
>> I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with
>> the headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
>> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I
>> dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be
>> wrong and
>
> My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
> dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral cell
> battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small dim, but
> nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears to be the
> same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is Hyundai's
> battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around - they do seem to
> start the car and last well enough though...
>
>> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
>> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above
>> that or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels (
>> custom wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or
>> rear. Any suggestions
>
> I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
> surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If its
> been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the wheels/tires I'd
> just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just mention the
> pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut torque balance.
>
> JS
"JS" <jsuter@intrastardot.net> wrote in message
news:9mngg.74767$ZH6.23649@fe14.usenetserver.com.. .
> Tunez wrote:
>> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles.
>> I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with
>> the headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
>> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I
>> dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be
>> wrong and
>
> My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
> dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral cell
> battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small dim, but
> nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears to be the
> same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is Hyundai's
> battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around - they do seem to
> start the car and last well enough though...
>
>> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
>> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above
>> that or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels (
>> custom wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or
>> rear. Any suggestions
>
> I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
> surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If its
> been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the wheels/tires I'd
> just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just mention the
> pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut torque balance.
>
> JS
>

Tunez

Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the wheels )
but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
rotor,
Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
inside/outside
calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was clean
and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is gone and
Im happy

Tunez


----- Original Message -----
From: "JS" <jsuter@intrastardot.net>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.hyundai
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: Couple of small conerns


> Tunez wrote:
>> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles.
>> I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with
>> the headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
>> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I
>> dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be
>> wrong and
>
> My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
> dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral cell
> battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small dim, but
> nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears to be the
> same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is Hyundai's
> battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around - they do seem to
> start the car and last well enough though...
>
>> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
>> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above
>> that or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels (
>> custom wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or
>> rear. Any suggestions
>
> I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
> surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If its
> been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the wheels/tires I'd
> just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just mention the
> pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut torque balance.
>
> JS
"JS" <jsuter@intrastardot.net> wrote in message
news:9mngg.74767$ZH6.23649@fe14.usenetserver.com.. .
> Tunez wrote:
>> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles.
>> I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with
>> the headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
>> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I
>> dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be
>> wrong and
>
> My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
> dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral cell
> battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small dim, but
> nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears to be the
> same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is Hyundai's
> battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around - they do seem to
> start the car and last well enough though...
>
>> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
>> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above
>> that or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels (
>> custom wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or
>> rear. Any suggestions
>
> I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
> surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If its
> been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the wheels/tires I'd
> just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just mention the
> pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut torque balance.
>
> JS
>

Tunez

Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the wheels )
but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
rotor,
Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
inside/outside
calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was clean
and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is gone and
Im happy

Tunez


----- Original Message -----
From: "JS" <jsuter@intrastardot.net>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.hyundai
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: Couple of small conerns


> Tunez wrote:
>> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles.
>> I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with
>> the headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
>> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I
>> dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be
>> wrong and
>
> My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
> dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral cell
> battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small dim, but
> nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears to be the
> same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is Hyundai's
> battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around - they do seem to
> start the car and last well enough though...
>
>> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
>> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above
>> that or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels (
>> custom wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or
>> rear. Any suggestions
>
> I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
> surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If its
> been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the wheels/tires I'd
> just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just mention the
> pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut torque balance.
>
> JS
"JS" <jsuter@intrastardot.net> wrote in message
news:9mngg.74767$ZH6.23649@fe14.usenetserver.com.. .
> Tunez wrote:
>> I have a 2005 XG350L it will be a year old next month and has 6300 miles.
>> I dont drive much at night but had to last night and noticed that with
>> the headlights on and the air conditoner running ( climate control ) that
>> everytime the air kicked on the lights would dim....is this normal, I
>> dont remember my wifes Santa Fe or our Tucson ever doing it, I could be
>> wrong and
>
> My 01 Santa Fe did this from the factory, and after mentioning it the
> dealer replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA Interstate-branded spiral cell
> battery and the problem went away about 95% (theres still a small dim, but
> nowhere near as bad). Our 03 doesn't do it with what appears to be the
> same "cheap" OE battery that my 01 came with. My guess is Hyundai's
> battery OEM doesn't have the best quality control around - they do seem to
> start the car and last well enough though...
>
>> just happened to notice this one. Second concern is when breaking I get a
>> slight pulsation in the break pedal between 20 and 30 MPH noting above
>> that or nothing below that. I can see the rotors though the wheels (
>> custom wheels ) and they look perfect no ridges ,scatches ECT. front or
>> rear. Any suggestions
>
> I'd start with removing the wheels, checking for debris on the mating
> surfaces, and properly re-torquing the lugs to their rated specs. If its
> been more than a couple thousand miles since you got the wheels/tires I'd
> just get it handled as a standard tire rotation - just mention the
> pulsation and tell them Hyundais are sensitive to lugnut torque balance.
>
> JS
>

Matt Whiting

Tunez wrote:

> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the wheels )
> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
> rotor,
> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
> inside/outside
> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was clean
> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is gone and

It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated by
the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the friction
force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it gets a
little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.

So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.


Matt

Matt Whiting

Tunez wrote:

> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the wheels )
> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
> rotor,
> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
> inside/outside
> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was clean
> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is gone and

It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated by
the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the friction
force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it gets a
little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.

So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.


Matt

Matt Whiting

Tunez wrote:

> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the wheels )
> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
> rotor,
> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
> inside/outside
> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was clean
> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is gone and

It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated by
the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the friction
force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it gets a
little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.

So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.


Matt

JS

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Tunez wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the
>> wheels )
>> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
>> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
>> rotor,
>> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
>> inside/outside
>> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
>> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was
>> clean
>> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is
>> gone and
>
> It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
> piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
> disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
> by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
> isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated by
> the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the friction
> force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it gets a
> little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.
>
> So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
> wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.

Well if everything is working right (properly lubricated) the difference
in pressure should be a couple ounces at the most... the more severe
the corrosion/dirt/wear/lack of lubrication the more the pressure
difference is.

Using the wrong lubricant will gum the slides up badly, be sure to get
the right stuff.

JS

JS

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Tunez wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the
>> wheels )
>> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
>> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
>> rotor,
>> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
>> inside/outside
>> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
>> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was
>> clean
>> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is
>> gone and
>
> It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
> piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
> disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
> by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
> isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated by
> the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the friction
> force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it gets a
> little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.
>
> So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
> wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.

Well if everything is working right (properly lubricated) the difference
in pressure should be a couple ounces at the most... the more severe
the corrosion/dirt/wear/lack of lubrication the more the pressure
difference is.

Using the wrong lubricant will gum the slides up badly, be sure to get
the right stuff.

JS

JS

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Tunez wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the
>> wheels )
>> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I think
>> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of the
>> rotor,
>> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
>> inside/outside
>> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
>> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was
>> clean
>> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is
>> gone and
>
> It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
> piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
> disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
> by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
> isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated by
> the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the friction
> force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it gets a
> little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.
>
> So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
> wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.

Well if everything is working right (properly lubricated) the difference
in pressure should be a couple ounces at the most... the more severe
the corrosion/dirt/wear/lack of lubrication the more the pressure
difference is.

Using the wrong lubricant will gum the slides up badly, be sure to get
the right stuff.

JS

Matt Whiting

JS wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Tunez wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the
>>> wheels )
>>> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I
>>> think
>>> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of
>>> the rotor,
>>> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
>>> inside/outside
>>> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
>>> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was
>>> clean
>>> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is
>>> gone and
>>
>>
>> It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
>> piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
>> disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
>> by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
>> isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated
>> by the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the
>> friction force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it
>> gets a little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.
>>
>> So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
>> wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.
>
>
> Well if everything is working right (properly lubricated) the difference
> in pressure should be a couple ounces at the most... the more severe
> the corrosion/dirt/wear/lack of lubrication the more the pressure
> difference is.

Yes, but the proper lubrication seldom lasts from one pad replacement to
the next, at least not in our PA winters. The road salt, water, dirt,
etc., will remove the lube in one winter. The difference in force then
is a lot more then a few ounces. Keep in mind that the caliper is being
forced against the mount with a LOT of force when under hard braking. A
rusty or even dirty slide will have a lot of friction and will take a
lot of force to move when under the force of heavy braking.


> Using the wrong lubricant will gum the slides up badly, be sure to get
> the right stuff.

Or worse yet, melt at high temps and get on the pads or disks.

Matt

Matt Whiting

JS wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Tunez wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the suggestion, but been there done that ( torguing the
>>> wheels )
>>> but after a couple 60 MPH brake checks the pulsation went away so I
>>> think
>>> hyundaitech was right, it may been a little rusty on the inside of
>>> the rotor,
>>> Still gonna have dealer check them out cause it seems to me that the
>>> inside/outside
>>> calipers should be hitting the rotors at the same time with the same
>>> pressure..... apparently they are not cause the outside the rotor was
>>> clean
>>> and shiny but the inside was not. What ever it was the pulsation is
>>> gone and
>>
>>
>> It depends on the caliper design. Most calipers only have a moving
>> piston on one side. The pad on the other side is pressed against the
>> disk through movement of the entire caliper in this sliding mount, not
>> by pressure directly from the pistion. Thus the force on that caliper
>> isn't the same as the force on the caliber that is directly actuated
>> by the piston. The force is the force from the piston LESS the
>> friction force in the sliding mount, which can be substantial when it
>> gets a little rusty and full of brake dust and other grit.
>>
>> So, it isn't unusual at all for the pads on piston side of the disk to
>> wear faster, and keep the disk shinier, than the pads on the other side.
>
>
> Well if everything is working right (properly lubricated) the difference
> in pressure should be a couple ounces at the most... the more severe
> the corrosion/dirt/wear/lack of lubrication the more the pressure
> difference is.

Yes, but the proper lubrication seldom lasts from one pad replacement to
the next, at least not in our PA winters. The road salt, water, dirt,
etc., will remove the lube in one winter. The difference in force then
is a lot more then a few ounces. Keep in mind that the caliper is being
forced against the mount with a LOT of force when under hard braking. A
rusty or even dirty slide will have a lot of friction and will take a
lot of force to move when under the force of heavy braking.


> Using the wrong lubricant will gum the slides up badly, be sure to get
> the right stuff.

Or worse yet, melt at high temps and get on the pads or disks.

Matt