Bob Adkins

I just noticed my driver's side door stands out almost 1/16" from the B
post. Looking at the passenger side, it's dead flush, as are both rear
doors.

I looked at the "U" shaped latch located on the post, and there appears to
be no adjustment. A casual look at the latch in the door revealed no obvious
adjustment either.

How would the door be adjusted? I would rather do this myself, as I can
afford to be careful, and take as long as necessary to avoid scratching the
paint.

The reason for wanting to pull the door in is not vanity. It doesn't show at
all without using a straight edge. The reason is, I have a slight wind
noise in the gasket at the top of the door, above the outside mirror.

Thanks,,,

--
Bob

Mike Marlow

"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:q08d22tggk545n8ncr3u6td58tj0em46jg@4ax.com...
>
> I just noticed my driver's side door stands out almost 1/16" from the B
> post. Looking at the passenger side, it's dead flush, as are both rear
> doors.
>
> I looked at the "U" shaped latch located on the post, and there appears to
> be no adjustment. A casual look at the latch in the door revealed no
obvious
> adjustment either.
>
> How would the door be adjusted? I would rather do this myself, as I can
> afford to be careful, and take as long as necessary to avoid scratching
the
> paint.
>
> The reason for wanting to pull the door in is not vanity. It doesn't show
at
> all without using a straight edge. The reason is, I have a slight wind
> noise in the gasket at the top of the door, above the outside mirror.
>


Bob:

Try one of two things - and don't think of this as some sort of cob job
effort. This is how it's done.

1) Open the door and stand between the open door and the car. Grab the top
rear of the door and hold the bottom rear of the door against your leg.
Pull down hard on the top rear. It will take some effort. Close the door
and check the fit. Try it again if necessary.

2) Open the door full wide and place a block of wood between the body and
the door, just above the lower hinge. Carefully close the door against the
block of wood until the wood is pinched in place. Give it a bit more of a
push to tweak the door and check the fit.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Mike Marlow

"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:q08d22tggk545n8ncr3u6td58tj0em46jg@4ax.com...
>
> I just noticed my driver's side door stands out almost 1/16" from the B
> post. Looking at the passenger side, it's dead flush, as are both rear
> doors.
>
> I looked at the "U" shaped latch located on the post, and there appears to
> be no adjustment. A casual look at the latch in the door revealed no
obvious
> adjustment either.
>
> How would the door be adjusted? I would rather do this myself, as I can
> afford to be careful, and take as long as necessary to avoid scratching
the
> paint.
>
> The reason for wanting to pull the door in is not vanity. It doesn't show
at
> all without using a straight edge. The reason is, I have a slight wind
> noise in the gasket at the top of the door, above the outside mirror.
>


Bob:

Try one of two things - and don't think of this as some sort of cob job
effort. This is how it's done.

1) Open the door and stand between the open door and the car. Grab the top
rear of the door and hold the bottom rear of the door against your leg.
Pull down hard on the top rear. It will take some effort. Close the door
and check the fit. Try it again if necessary.

2) Open the door full wide and place a block of wood between the body and
the door, just above the lower hinge. Carefully close the door against the
block of wood until the wood is pinched in place. Give it a bit more of a
push to tweak the door and check the fit.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Mike Marlow

"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:q08d22tggk545n8ncr3u6td58tj0em46jg@4ax.com...
>
> I just noticed my driver's side door stands out almost 1/16" from the B
> post. Looking at the passenger side, it's dead flush, as are both rear
> doors.
>
> I looked at the "U" shaped latch located on the post, and there appears to
> be no adjustment. A casual look at the latch in the door revealed no
obvious
> adjustment either.
>
> How would the door be adjusted? I would rather do this myself, as I can
> afford to be careful, and take as long as necessary to avoid scratching
the
> paint.
>
> The reason for wanting to pull the door in is not vanity. It doesn't show
at
> all without using a straight edge. The reason is, I have a slight wind
> noise in the gasket at the top of the door, above the outside mirror.
>


Bob:

Try one of two things - and don't think of this as some sort of cob job
effort. This is how it's done.

1) Open the door and stand between the open door and the car. Grab the top
rear of the door and hold the bottom rear of the door against your leg.
Pull down hard on the top rear. It will take some effort. Close the door
and check the fit. Try it again if necessary.

2) Open the door full wide and place a block of wood between the body and
the door, just above the lower hinge. Carefully close the door against the
block of wood until the wood is pinched in place. Give it a bit more of a
push to tweak the door and check the fit.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

hyundaitech

Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
along
the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
striker inward.

But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
need
to use a method like Mike described.

hyundaitech

Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
along
the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
striker inward.

But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
need
to use a method like Mike described.

hyundaitech

Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
along
the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
striker inward.

But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
need
to use a method like Mike described.

Bob Adkins

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 10:22:06 -0500, "hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com>
wrote:

>Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
>along
>the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
>If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
>may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
>striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
>you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
>striker inward.
>
>But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
>need
>to use a method like Mike described.


Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.

One worries about the window. I don't want to make the window hard to roll
up or get scratched by the track.
--
Bob

Bob Adkins

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 10:22:06 -0500, "hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com>
wrote:

>Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
>along
>the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
>If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
>may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
>striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
>you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
>striker inward.
>
>But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
>need
>to use a method like Mike described.


Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.

One worries about the window. I don't want to make the window hard to roll
up or get scratched by the track.
--
Bob

Bob Adkins

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 10:22:06 -0500, "hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com>
wrote:

>Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
>along
>the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
>If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
>may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
>striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
>you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
>striker inward.
>
>But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
>need
>to use a method like Mike described.


Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.

One worries about the window. I don't want to make the window hard to roll
up or get scratched by the track.
--
Bob

Mike Marlow

"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:ef8l229fll3ts3vp0c5e361ijjrbseoe3s@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 10:22:06 -0500, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
> >along
> >the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
> >If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
> >may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
> >striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
> >you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
> >striker inward.
> >
> >But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
> >need
> >to use a method like Mike described.
>
>
> Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.
>
> One worries about the window. I don't want to make the window hard to roll
> up or get scratched by the track.

You won't. You're not pulling the door that far and you're really only
working the top part of the door. Don't get Herculean with the job - take
it easy. Pull a bit, check it. Pull a bit, check it. Curse a bit. Pull a
bit, check it. Curse again. Pull back the other way...

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Mike Marlow

"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:ef8l229fll3ts3vp0c5e361ijjrbseoe3s@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 10:22:06 -0500, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
> >along
> >the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
> >If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
> >may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
> >striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
> >you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
> >striker inward.
> >
> >But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
> >need
> >to use a method like Mike described.
>
>
> Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.
>
> One worries about the window. I don't want to make the window hard to roll
> up or get scratched by the track.

You won't. You're not pulling the door that far and you're really only
working the top part of the door. Don't get Herculean with the job - take
it easy. Pull a bit, check it. Pull a bit, check it. Curse a bit. Pull a
bit, check it. Curse again. Pull back the other way...

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Mike Marlow

"Bob Adkins" <bobad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:ef8l229fll3ts3vp0c5e361ijjrbseoe3s@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 10:22:06 -0500, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Look at how the door fits at the top and bottom as well as the middle
> >along
> >the B-pillar. Look at how the door fits along the top and bottom edges.
> >If it's simply sitting out at the B-pillar (from top to bottom), then you
> >may simply be able to adjust the striker in. To do this, loosen the
> >striker retaining bolts and see if you can slide it inward. If not, then
> >you'll need to use some motivating force (large hammer) to force the
> >striker inward.
> >
> >But if the door is out at the just the top or just the bottom, you'll
> >need
> >to use a method like Mike described.
>
>
> Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.
>
> One worries about the window. I don't want to make the window hard to roll
> up or get scratched by the track.

You won't. You're not pulling the door that far and you're really only
working the top part of the door. Don't get Herculean with the job - take
it easy. Pull a bit, check it. Pull a bit, check it. Curse a bit. Pull a
bit, check it. Curse again. Pull back the other way...

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net