Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.

When the condition occurs:

Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.

Like the other poster(s) mentioned, you want to check to see if you have
spark and injector pulse. Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
metal and then watch while cranking the engine. To check for injector
pulse, you'll need a noid lamp (a lamp which plugs into the harness where
the injector would normally plug in). If the noid lamp flashes, then you
have injector pulse.

The immediate things that come to mind as possible causes are a bad main
or ecu relay, or a bad crank sensor.

 

Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
> of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
> metal and then watch while cranking the engine.

I thought that I had read where this is not a good thing to do on the
electronic engines. Its supposed to mess something up. I always did it in
the old days but not lately(20 years)

--


"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:2cd6347a414c231c79b8ab89a1662917@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.
>
> When the condition occurs:
>
> Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
> computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.
>
> Like the other poster(s) mentioned, you want to check to see if you have
> spark and injector pulse. Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
> of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
> metal and then watch while cranking the engine. To check for injector
> pulse, you'll need a noid lamp (a lamp which plugs into the harness where
> the injector would normally plug in). If the noid lamp flashes, then you
> have injector pulse.
>
> The immediate things that come to mind as possible causes are a bad main
> or ecu relay, or a bad crank sensor.
>

 

Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
> of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
> metal and then watch while cranking the engine.

I thought that I had read where this is not a good thing to do on the
electronic engines. Its supposed to mess something up. I always did it in
the old days but not lately(20 years)

--


"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:2cd6347a414c231c79b8ab89a1662917@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.
>
> When the condition occurs:
>
> Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
> computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.
>
> Like the other poster(s) mentioned, you want to check to see if you have
> spark and injector pulse. Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
> of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
> metal and then watch while cranking the engine. To check for injector
> pulse, you'll need a noid lamp (a lamp which plugs into the harness where
> the injector would normally plug in). If the noid lamp flashes, then you
> have injector pulse.
>
> The immediate things that come to mind as possible causes are a bad main
> or ecu relay, or a bad crank sensor.
>

 

Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
> of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
> metal and then watch while cranking the engine.

I thought that I had read where this is not a good thing to do on the
electronic engines. Its supposed to mess something up. I always did it in
the old days but not lately(20 years)

--


"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:2cd6347a414c231c79b8ab89a1662917@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.
>
> When the condition occurs:
>
> Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
> computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.
>
> Like the other poster(s) mentioned, you want to check to see if you have
> spark and injector pulse. Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
> of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
> metal and then watch while cranking the engine. To check for injector
> pulse, you'll need a noid lamp (a lamp which plugs into the harness where
> the injector would normally plug in). If the noid lamp flashes, then you
> have injector pulse.
>
> The immediate things that come to mind as possible causes are a bad main
> or ecu relay, or a bad crank sensor.
>

 

If the injectors are working, it'll put fuel in the exhaust, so you
shouldn't really do it. But as a quick test, it's pretty harmless.

 

If the injectors are working, it'll put fuel in the exhaust, so you
shouldn't really do it. But as a quick test, it's pretty harmless.

 

If the injectors are working, it'll put fuel in the exhaust, so you
shouldn't really do it. But as a quick test, it's pretty harmless.

 

On 2006-07-19, hyundaitech <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
> Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.
>
> When the condition occurs:
>
> Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
> computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.
> ...

Thanks. I'll also listen for the fuel pump (I didn't realize you could hear
it) next time, as another poster said. I'll keep an eye on the check engine
light for another reason, namely this TSB I found on hmaservice:

-------------------------------------------

TSB 01-36-014: 2000-01 Accent Intermittent Crank-No-Start Caused by the ECM

DESCRIPTION:

If a 2000 or 2001 Accent experiences all of the following:
- Very intermittent crank-no-start (in some cases, months between incidences).
- The Check Engine Light does not light up when the ignition key is turned to
the on position (normally it does).
- The Hi-Scan Pro cannot communicate with the Engine Control Module (ECM).
- Disrupting power to the ECM and reapplying (for example, by disconnecting
the negative terminal on the battery or disconnecting and reconnecting the
EC01 connector) fixes the car temporarily (the engine starts).
- The vehicle was produced between 6/14/00 and 7/11/00.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

Replace the ECM.

-------------------------------------------

I'm not saying I'm positive this is my problem, but I'll keep an eye on the
check engine light. I do have a 2001 Accent, and the no-start problem is
suspiciously intermittent, but I don't think it was manufactured in that
date range. Too bad my warranty expired less than 3000 miles ago. I rather
doubt that an ECM comes cheap.

Chris

 

On 2006-07-19, hyundaitech <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
> Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.
>
> When the condition occurs:
>
> Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
> computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.
> ...

Thanks. I'll also listen for the fuel pump (I didn't realize you could hear
it) next time, as another poster said. I'll keep an eye on the check engine
light for another reason, namely this TSB I found on hmaservice:

-------------------------------------------

TSB 01-36-014: 2000-01 Accent Intermittent Crank-No-Start Caused by the ECM

DESCRIPTION:

If a 2000 or 2001 Accent experiences all of the following:
- Very intermittent crank-no-start (in some cases, months between incidences).
- The Check Engine Light does not light up when the ignition key is turned to
the on position (normally it does).
- The Hi-Scan Pro cannot communicate with the Engine Control Module (ECM).
- Disrupting power to the ECM and reapplying (for example, by disconnecting
the negative terminal on the battery or disconnecting and reconnecting the
EC01 connector) fixes the car temporarily (the engine starts).
- The vehicle was produced between 6/14/00 and 7/11/00.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

Replace the ECM.

-------------------------------------------

I'm not saying I'm positive this is my problem, but I'll keep an eye on the
check engine light. I do have a 2001 Accent, and the no-start problem is
suspiciously intermittent, but I don't think it was manufactured in that
date range. Too bad my warranty expired less than 3000 miles ago. I rather
doubt that an ECM comes cheap.

Chris

 

On 2006-07-19, hyundaitech <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
> Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.
>
> When the condition occurs:
>
> Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
> computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.
> ...

Thanks. I'll also listen for the fuel pump (I didn't realize you could hear
it) next time, as another poster said. I'll keep an eye on the check engine
light for another reason, namely this TSB I found on hmaservice:

-------------------------------------------

TSB 01-36-014: 2000-01 Accent Intermittent Crank-No-Start Caused by the ECM

DESCRIPTION:

If a 2000 or 2001 Accent experiences all of the following:
- Very intermittent crank-no-start (in some cases, months between incidences).
- The Check Engine Light does not light up when the ignition key is turned to
the on position (normally it does).
- The Hi-Scan Pro cannot communicate with the Engine Control Module (ECM).
- Disrupting power to the ECM and reapplying (for example, by disconnecting
the negative terminal on the battery or disconnecting and reconnecting the
EC01 connector) fixes the car temporarily (the engine starts).
- The vehicle was produced between 6/14/00 and 7/11/00.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

Replace the ECM.

-------------------------------------------

I'm not saying I'm positive this is my problem, but I'll keep an eye on the
check engine light. I do have a 2001 Accent, and the no-start problem is
suspiciously intermittent, but I don't think it was manufactured in that
date range. Too bad my warranty expired less than 3000 miles ago. I rather
doubt that an ECM comes cheap.

Chris

 

See, I should check the bulletins more often. Every once in a while,
there's one I don't remember.

You can check your car's production date by looking at the placard on the
driver's door opening pillar. If it's not in the production date range
(which it is likely not since the range only goes to 7/11/00), then you're
extremely unlikely to have this as a problem. The good news, however, is
that if this is the problem, your ECM may be still covered under
warranty-- it's warranted for 8 years/80k miles under mandate from the
federal government.

 

See, I should check the bulletins more often. Every once in a while,
there's one I don't remember.

You can check your car's production date by looking at the placard on the
driver's door opening pillar. If it's not in the production date range
(which it is likely not since the range only goes to 7/11/00), then you're
extremely unlikely to have this as a problem. The good news, however, is
that if this is the problem, your ECM may be still covered under
warranty-- it's warranted for 8 years/80k miles under mandate from the
federal government.

 

See, I should check the bulletins more often. Every once in a while,
there's one I don't remember.

You can check your car's production date by looking at the placard on the
driver's door opening pillar. If it's not in the production date range
(which it is likely not since the range only goes to 7/11/00), then you're
extremely unlikely to have this as a problem. The good news, however, is
that if this is the problem, your ECM may be still covered under
warranty-- it's warranted for 8 years/80k miles under mandate from the
federal government.