New Elantra First Oil Change
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Don Allen wrote:
> One other thing . . . I noted specifications of 5W-20, 5W-30, and
> 10W-30 not only in the Elantra's Maintenance Log, but in the Owner's
> Manual. 10W-30 was recommended for above 0 degree F operation only.
> NOTE: Interestingly, I queried the local dealer's Service Manager on
> what oil weight's they use and he said that they unilaterally use
> 10W-30 for all Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi vechicles. Perhaps, this
> is analogous to an earlier poster's comment about his dealer using
> 10W-30 weight oil.
They likely don't want the bother of stocking three different weight oils.
> One fact does exist with the comparision, for example, of 5W-30 to
> 10W-30 weight oil is the use of more V.I.'s (Viscosity Indexers) in
> 5W-30 weight oil as compared to 10W-30. The greater the amount of
> V.I.'s used in motor oil, the greater propensity of varnish build-up,
> "possible" sludging (over time), etc. Thus, using an oil with the
> narrowest range of weights can actually be a plus. On the other hand,
> 5W oils are now specified not only because of tighter engine
> tolerances, but primarily because of enhanced fuel economy. The
> low-temp (0 degrees F or below) pourability and initial operational
> flow characteristics of a 10W-30 weight synthetic are far superior to
> any 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino oil.
I think with synthetic oil you need fewer additives in general so I
doubt there is a lot of difference between 5W and 10W in Mobil 1. I'll
probably use 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the summer as that is
what I use in my other two vehicles and I don't want to stock more
weights of oil either! :-)
> Just a thought . . . as two vehicles I own which have used 5W-30
> weight oil since purchase (each of which has over 125,000 miles on the
> clock) consume approx. 1/2 to 3/4 quart between changes. On the other
> hand, two other vehicles which have used 10W-30 since purchase (each of
> these have over 175,000 miles) use no oil between changes. This is a
> bit of an "apples-and-oranges" comparision as only the latter two are
> of the same brand and type, but interesting nevertheless. In the
> previously mentioned cases, the cause of the consumption is not ring
> wear, rather valve stem seal and valve guide wear.
Actually, I believe that on most modern engines more oil is consumed
through the PCV system than mechanically. That is one reason why Toyota
and Honda for years had lower consumption that most other brands. They
had much better PCV systems that would separate the oil from the air
that was sent to the intake.
Matt
> One other thing . . . I noted specifications of 5W-20, 5W-30, and
> 10W-30 not only in the Elantra's Maintenance Log, but in the Owner's
> Manual. 10W-30 was recommended for above 0 degree F operation only.
> NOTE: Interestingly, I queried the local dealer's Service Manager on
> what oil weight's they use and he said that they unilaterally use
> 10W-30 for all Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi vechicles. Perhaps, this
> is analogous to an earlier poster's comment about his dealer using
> 10W-30 weight oil.
They likely don't want the bother of stocking three different weight oils.
> One fact does exist with the comparision, for example, of 5W-30 to
> 10W-30 weight oil is the use of more V.I.'s (Viscosity Indexers) in
> 5W-30 weight oil as compared to 10W-30. The greater the amount of
> V.I.'s used in motor oil, the greater propensity of varnish build-up,
> "possible" sludging (over time), etc. Thus, using an oil with the
> narrowest range of weights can actually be a plus. On the other hand,
> 5W oils are now specified not only because of tighter engine
> tolerances, but primarily because of enhanced fuel economy. The
> low-temp (0 degrees F or below) pourability and initial operational
> flow characteristics of a 10W-30 weight synthetic are far superior to
> any 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino oil.
I think with synthetic oil you need fewer additives in general so I
doubt there is a lot of difference between 5W and 10W in Mobil 1. I'll
probably use 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the summer as that is
what I use in my other two vehicles and I don't want to stock more
weights of oil either! :-)
> Just a thought . . . as two vehicles I own which have used 5W-30
> weight oil since purchase (each of which has over 125,000 miles on the
> clock) consume approx. 1/2 to 3/4 quart between changes. On the other
> hand, two other vehicles which have used 10W-30 since purchase (each of
> these have over 175,000 miles) use no oil between changes. This is a
> bit of an "apples-and-oranges" comparision as only the latter two are
> of the same brand and type, but interesting nevertheless. In the
> previously mentioned cases, the cause of the consumption is not ring
> wear, rather valve stem seal and valve guide wear.
Actually, I believe that on most modern engines more oil is consumed
through the PCV system than mechanically. That is one reason why Toyota
and Honda for years had lower consumption that most other brands. They
had much better PCV systems that would separate the oil from the air
that was sent to the intake.
Matt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>> before???" items.
>
>
> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it is
> good enough for me!
All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
is more hassle than it's worth.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>> before???" items.
>
>
> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it is
> good enough for me!
All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
is more hassle than it's worth.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>> before???" items.
>
>
> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it is
> good enough for me!
All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
is more hassle than it's worth.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>> before???" items.
>
>
> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it is
> good enough for me!
All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
is more hassle than it's worth.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>> before???" items.
>
>
> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it is
> good enough for me!
All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
is more hassle than it's worth.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>> before???" items.
>
>
> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it is
> good enough for me!
All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
is more hassle than it's worth.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Don Allen wrote:
>
>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>> 25 years of using the product).
>
>
> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
Agreed.
> I run 5K changes
That's a waste, too.
> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty
> (one of which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
oil is holding up.
>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>> at 1,000 miles.
>
>
> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using dino
> oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule for
> most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid any
> warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000 mile
> changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles of 5K
> changes and it didn't bother it at all.
How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
oil change is due?
>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>
> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a safe
> compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
Hyundai suggests 7500.
> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals are
> VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with Hyundai,
> I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
with a synthetic.
> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
> I've done
> my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker hassle me on a
> warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of imports before.
> Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing my own maintenance.
All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
my Elantra.
> Don Allen wrote:
>
>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>> 25 years of using the product).
>
>
> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
Agreed.
> I run 5K changes
That's a waste, too.
> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty
> (one of which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
oil is holding up.
>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>> at 1,000 miles.
>
>
> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using dino
> oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule for
> most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid any
> warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000 mile
> changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles of 5K
> changes and it didn't bother it at all.
How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
oil change is due?
>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>
> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a safe
> compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
Hyundai suggests 7500.
> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals are
> VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with Hyundai,
> I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
with a synthetic.
> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
> I've done
> my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker hassle me on a
> warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of imports before.
> Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing my own maintenance.
All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
my Elantra.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Don Allen wrote:
>
>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>> 25 years of using the product).
>
>
> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
Agreed.
> I run 5K changes
That's a waste, too.
> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty
> (one of which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
oil is holding up.
>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>> at 1,000 miles.
>
>
> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using dino
> oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule for
> most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid any
> warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000 mile
> changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles of 5K
> changes and it didn't bother it at all.
How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
oil change is due?
>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>
> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a safe
> compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
Hyundai suggests 7500.
> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals are
> VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with Hyundai,
> I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
with a synthetic.
> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
> I've done
> my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker hassle me on a
> warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of imports before.
> Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing my own maintenance.
All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
my Elantra.
> Don Allen wrote:
>
>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>> 25 years of using the product).
>
>
> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
Agreed.
> I run 5K changes
That's a waste, too.
> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty
> (one of which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
oil is holding up.
>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>> at 1,000 miles.
>
>
> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using dino
> oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule for
> most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid any
> warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000 mile
> changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles of 5K
> changes and it didn't bother it at all.
How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
oil change is due?
>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>
> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a safe
> compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
Hyundai suggests 7500.
> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals are
> VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with Hyundai,
> I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
with a synthetic.
> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
> I've done
> my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker hassle me on a
> warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of imports before.
> Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing my own maintenance.
All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
my Elantra.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Don Allen wrote:
>
>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>> 25 years of using the product).
>
>
> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
Agreed.
> I run 5K changes
That's a waste, too.
> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty
> (one of which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
oil is holding up.
>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>> at 1,000 miles.
>
>
> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using dino
> oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule for
> most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid any
> warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000 mile
> changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles of 5K
> changes and it didn't bother it at all.
How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
oil change is due?
>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>
> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a safe
> compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
Hyundai suggests 7500.
> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals are
> VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with Hyundai,
> I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
with a synthetic.
> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
> I've done
> my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker hassle me on a
> warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of imports before.
> Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing my own maintenance.
All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
my Elantra.
> Don Allen wrote:
>
>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>> 25 years of using the product).
>
>
> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
Agreed.
> I run 5K changes
That's a waste, too.
> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty
> (one of which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
oil is holding up.
>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>> at 1,000 miles.
>
>
> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using dino
> oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule for
> most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid any
> warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000 mile
> changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles of 5K
> changes and it didn't bother it at all.
How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
oil change is due?
>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>
> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a safe
> compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
Hyundai suggests 7500.
> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals are
> VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with Hyundai,
> I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
with a synthetic.
> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
> I've done
> my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker hassle me on a
> warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of imports before.
> Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing my own maintenance.
All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
my Elantra.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Hyundai seems somewhat liberal in their warranty administration. If you
have the work done at the dealer as scheduled, that leaves two options
when there's a problem: one-- the dealer knows the maintenance was done
correctly, or two-- if it was done incorrectly, the dealer was directly
responsible. If you have the maintenance done elsewhere, you'll have to
keep your records and do your best to make sure everything is done
correctly (neither of which is very difficult if you have some rudimentary
knowledge about automobiles). None of this will likely be an issue unless
you have a major failure of the engine or trans.
A few months ago, I replaced a transmission under warranty even though the
customer's receipt showed the wrong fluid was installed. But that doesn't
mean everyone will get the same decision. Dealers are required to get
authorization from their factory rep for repairs over a certain dollar
figure (I believe it's about $1000). In my experience, each rep is
different and some are not even consistent with their own decisions.
have the work done at the dealer as scheduled, that leaves two options
when there's a problem: one-- the dealer knows the maintenance was done
correctly, or two-- if it was done incorrectly, the dealer was directly
responsible. If you have the maintenance done elsewhere, you'll have to
keep your records and do your best to make sure everything is done
correctly (neither of which is very difficult if you have some rudimentary
knowledge about automobiles). None of this will likely be an issue unless
you have a major failure of the engine or trans.
A few months ago, I replaced a transmission under warranty even though the
customer's receipt showed the wrong fluid was installed. But that doesn't
mean everyone will get the same decision. Dealers are required to get
authorization from their factory rep for repairs over a certain dollar
figure (I believe it's about $1000). In my experience, each rep is
different and some are not even consistent with their own decisions.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Hyundai seems somewhat liberal in their warranty administration. If you
have the work done at the dealer as scheduled, that leaves two options
when there's a problem: one-- the dealer knows the maintenance was done
correctly, or two-- if it was done incorrectly, the dealer was directly
responsible. If you have the maintenance done elsewhere, you'll have to
keep your records and do your best to make sure everything is done
correctly (neither of which is very difficult if you have some rudimentary
knowledge about automobiles). None of this will likely be an issue unless
you have a major failure of the engine or trans.
A few months ago, I replaced a transmission under warranty even though the
customer's receipt showed the wrong fluid was installed. But that doesn't
mean everyone will get the same decision. Dealers are required to get
authorization from their factory rep for repairs over a certain dollar
figure (I believe it's about $1000). In my experience, each rep is
different and some are not even consistent with their own decisions.
have the work done at the dealer as scheduled, that leaves two options
when there's a problem: one-- the dealer knows the maintenance was done
correctly, or two-- if it was done incorrectly, the dealer was directly
responsible. If you have the maintenance done elsewhere, you'll have to
keep your records and do your best to make sure everything is done
correctly (neither of which is very difficult if you have some rudimentary
knowledge about automobiles). None of this will likely be an issue unless
you have a major failure of the engine or trans.
A few months ago, I replaced a transmission under warranty even though the
customer's receipt showed the wrong fluid was installed. But that doesn't
mean everyone will get the same decision. Dealers are required to get
authorization from their factory rep for repairs over a certain dollar
figure (I believe it's about $1000). In my experience, each rep is
different and some are not even consistent with their own decisions.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Hyundai seems somewhat liberal in their warranty administration. If you
have the work done at the dealer as scheduled, that leaves two options
when there's a problem: one-- the dealer knows the maintenance was done
correctly, or two-- if it was done incorrectly, the dealer was directly
responsible. If you have the maintenance done elsewhere, you'll have to
keep your records and do your best to make sure everything is done
correctly (neither of which is very difficult if you have some rudimentary
knowledge about automobiles). None of this will likely be an issue unless
you have a major failure of the engine or trans.
A few months ago, I replaced a transmission under warranty even though the
customer's receipt showed the wrong fluid was installed. But that doesn't
mean everyone will get the same decision. Dealers are required to get
authorization from their factory rep for repairs over a certain dollar
figure (I believe it's about $1000). In my experience, each rep is
different and some are not even consistent with their own decisions.
have the work done at the dealer as scheduled, that leaves two options
when there's a problem: one-- the dealer knows the maintenance was done
correctly, or two-- if it was done incorrectly, the dealer was directly
responsible. If you have the maintenance done elsewhere, you'll have to
keep your records and do your best to make sure everything is done
correctly (neither of which is very difficult if you have some rudimentary
knowledge about automobiles). None of this will likely be an issue unless
you have a major failure of the engine or trans.
A few months ago, I replaced a transmission under warranty even though the
customer's receipt showed the wrong fluid was installed. But that doesn't
mean everyone will get the same decision. Dealers are required to get
authorization from their factory rep for repairs over a certain dollar
figure (I believe it's about $1000). In my experience, each rep is
different and some are not even consistent with their own decisions.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>>> before???" items.
>>
>>
>>
>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>> is good enough for me!
>
>
> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
> available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
> short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
> the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
> is more hassle than it's worth.
We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in.
If the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
looked under the car yet to confirm that.
Matt
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>>> before???" items.
>>
>>
>>
>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>> is good enough for me!
>
>
> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
> available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
> short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
> the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
> is more hassle than it's worth.
We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in.
If the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
looked under the car yet to confirm that.
Matt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>>> before???" items.
>>
>>
>>
>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>> is good enough for me!
>
>
> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
> available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
> short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
> the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
> is more hassle than it's worth.
We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in.
If the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
looked under the car yet to confirm that.
Matt
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>>> before???" items.
>>
>>
>>
>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>> is good enough for me!
>
>
> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
> available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
> short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
> the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
> is more hassle than it's worth.
We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in.
If the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
looked under the car yet to confirm that.
Matt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>>> before???" items.
>>
>>
>>
>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>> is good enough for me!
>
>
> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
> available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
> short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
> the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
> is more hassle than it's worth.
We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in.
If the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
looked under the car yet to confirm that.
Matt
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
>>> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
>>> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
>>> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
>>> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
>>> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain
>>> plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that
>>> before???" items.
>>
>>
>>
>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>> is good enough for me!
>
>
> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're readily
> available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain adapter and
> short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best if you leave
> the hose off and just run the oil into a drain pan/tub/bucket. The hose
> is more hassle than it's worth.
We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in.
If the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
looked under the car yet to confirm that.
Matt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Don Allen wrote:
>>
>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>
>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>
> Agreed.
>
>> I run 5K changes
>
> That's a waste, too.
No doubt as I stated below.
>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>
> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
> oil is holding up.
I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!
I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained).
This is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
refill the engine with it.
Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
isn't a good way to go.
>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>
>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
>> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
>> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule
>> for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid
>> any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000
>> mile changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles
>> of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>
> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
> oil change is due?
More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
of 5,000 is coming up.
>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>
>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>
> Hyundai suggests 7500.
Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.
>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>
> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
warranty hassle.
>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>
> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
> with a synthetic.
It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.
>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
>> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>
> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
> in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
> that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
> the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
> do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
> don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
> falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.
>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing
>> my own maintenance.
>
> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
> work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
> my Elantra.
I keep my own log and receipts.
Matt
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Don Allen wrote:
>>
>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>
>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>
> Agreed.
>
>> I run 5K changes
>
> That's a waste, too.
No doubt as I stated below.
>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>
> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
> oil is holding up.
I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!
I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained).
This is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
refill the engine with it.
Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
isn't a good way to go.
>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>
>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
>> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
>> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule
>> for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid
>> any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000
>> mile changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles
>> of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>
> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
> oil change is due?
More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
of 5,000 is coming up.
>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>
>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>
> Hyundai suggests 7500.
Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.
>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>
> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
warranty hassle.
>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>
> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
> with a synthetic.
It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.
>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
>> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>
> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
> in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
> that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
> the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
> do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
> don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
> falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.
>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing
>> my own maintenance.
>
> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
> work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
> my Elantra.
I keep my own log and receipts.
Matt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New Elantra First Oil Change
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Don Allen wrote:
>>
>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>
>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>
> Agreed.
>
>> I run 5K changes
>
> That's a waste, too.
No doubt as I stated below.
>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>
> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
> oil is holding up.
I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!
I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained).
This is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
refill the engine with it.
Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
isn't a good way to go.
>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>
>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
>> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
>> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule
>> for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid
>> any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000
>> mile changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles
>> of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>
> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
> oil change is due?
More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
of 5,000 is coming up.
>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>
>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>
> Hyundai suggests 7500.
Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.
>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>
> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
warranty hassle.
>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>
> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
> with a synthetic.
It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.
>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
>> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>
> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
> in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
> that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
> the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
> do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
> don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
> falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.
>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing
>> my own maintenance.
>
> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
> work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
> my Elantra.
I keep my own log and receipts.
Matt
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Don Allen wrote:
>>
>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>
>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>
> Agreed.
>
>> I run 5K changes
>
> That's a waste, too.
No doubt as I stated below.
>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>
> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
> oil is holding up.
I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!
I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained).
This is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
refill the engine with it.
Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
isn't a good way to go.
>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>
>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
>> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
>> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule
>> for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid
>> any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000
>> mile changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles
>> of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>
> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
> oil change is due?
More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
of 5,000 is coming up.
>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>
>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>
> Hyundai suggests 7500.
Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.
>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>
> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
warranty hassle.
>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>
> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
> with a synthetic.
It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.
>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
>> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>
> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
> in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
> that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
> the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
> do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
> don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
> falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.
That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.
>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing
>> my own maintenance.
>
> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
> work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
> my Elantra.
I keep my own log and receipts.
Matt